Maybe just a break in period? I wouldn't think it's the rack but with your mileage I guess you can't rule it out. Have you inspected the front subframe for cracks?
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Maybe just a break in period? I wouldn't think it's the rack but with your mileage I guess you can't rule it out. Have you inspected the front subframe for cracks?
BP doesn't the pop/clunck sound more towards the rear?
Thumbs, iPhone, TaT.
Keep us posted
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The pop is sort of gone. I feel some very minor shifting going on but no more audible pop noise. Odd.
Alright, back on track. This thread isn't meant for maintenance related posts, so it's time to reign it in. :)
Currently I've got a couple of projects cooking. First and foremost, Wobz is getting upgraded lighting!
The AL projectors I had were great for lowbeam, but had non-working highbeams. My lights are currently in the trusted hands of Caesar at Lightwerkz getting some FX-R v1.0's retrofitted. The FX-R's were given to me by Charlie a while ago since he decided to go a different route with his lights, and I am finally taking advantage of having them.
Folks are typically going with v3.0's because they have a slightly sharper cutoff line (lol) and more foreground light than the 1.0's. I chose to stay with the 1.0's because I prefer the wider beam pattern. From pictures I've seen, it seems like they have slightly more color flicker (lol) as well than the 3.0's. Even though that stuff can be tweaked, I like to have these things out of the box. --- Cutoff line and color flicker are inside jokes. You know who you are. :biggrin ---
I will be re-using my 4300k Phillips 85122 bulbs that I had installed in the AL's. The other project I am working on is adding a pair of Weisslicht Illustro H7 LED bulbs to the high beam housings to replace the halogen bulbs currently installed. These bad boys put out well over 3000 lumens of light, and because of their instant on/off trait, they are PERFECT for flash-to-pass. They are bright enough to actually be usable as standalone high beams at night. They are designed to be low/high beams for standard halogen lights, so I know they are up to the task of doing some actual lighting. :thumbsup
These are the bulbs that I purchased:
https://bimmian.com/Accessories-for-...og-Light-Bulb/
To top it all off, the projectors are getting installed in a spare headlight bucket that I bought from Dane, and Caesar is going to do his best to clean the bowl and paint them. Hopefully he does a better job of it than I did, because when I painted my existing bowls yellow, they lost all their reflectivity and the H7 high beams were useless, so I effectively had no usable high beams. Since the high beam shutters work on the FX-R's and the H7 LED's aren't meant for lighting on my car, I don't care if I lose a little reflectivity. We shall see how it turns out. I'm getting excited to have perfectly functioning lighting again...
Cesar told me they use a 2.5" lens not the 3" lens. If that is the versions.
Lol. Good luck!
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Various links demonstrating the different versions of the projector.Quote:
Originally Posted by Vas
v1.0's vs 3.0's:
http://www.hidplanet.com/forums/show...l=1#post462447
v1.0's vs 2.0's:
http://www.hidplanet.com/forums/show...l=1#post422133
A few shots demonstrating why the early 2.0's sucked. Bad downwards bowing. Not sure if this was corrected or not as I have completely ignored the 2.0 in my research for this reason.
http://www.hidplanet.com/forums/show...l=1#post412117
I think my 1.0's have a 3" lens.
Cut off Line and Color Flicker!!! Oh Ya!!!
+1Quote:
Originally Posted by WOLFN8TR
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