https://www.ecstuning.com/b-assemble...51717036781kt/Quote:
Originally Posted by BMWCurves
I'm a little torn, as some of I don't need but whatever.
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https://www.ecstuning.com/b-assemble...51717036781kt/Quote:
Originally Posted by BMWCurves
I'm a little torn, as some of I don't need but whatever.
I'd just take the time to pick out the individual parts. You can find them in my overly-cited refresh thread (Link). And I agree with Peter, get the Rogue Engineering rear shock mounts.Quote:
Originally Posted by 704sw
+1Quote:
Originally Posted by BMWCurves
I believe the rogue mounts come with the reinforcement plates too.
Though that is a pretty cool spring and strut installation guide on that ECS kit page.
All you guys talking about shocks/struts - makes me want to buy Koni yellows. My fronts are original from 2004.
$576 out the door, plus whatever I get back from eBates ($17.28 allegedly), and the $50 Koni MIR. And I use PayPal Credit for all stuff like this, so 6mo. financing. Not that I couldn't just pay it off, but time-value of money formulae say it's best not to. Stupid economics degree, always impacting my thought processes [emoji849]Quote:
Originally Posted by anandoc
Yup, it's quite pricey. Cars (at least BMW) are generally more expensive when compared to US standards. Standard facelift 330Ci is anywhere from $6k to 10k, M Club Sport is pretty rare and when it pops up it's always over $11k and with 120-130k miles and more. Even e39 530i M Sport, 5 speed is around $7-8k.Quote:
Originally Posted by ZHPizza
I was hope for cool cheap bimmers. :shifty
Not the same car, but cool video for G-Powered e46.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=inUKw_yunfU
This means replace with Redline D4 ATF, right?https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...12e6101fa3.jpg
$576 USD... that's $789 CAD right now. ouch. :)Quote:
Originally Posted by 704sw
LOL. it would work, or i used both BMW MTL and redline MTL in the trans. i liked the redline better.Quote:
Originally Posted by ZHPizza
Freedom dollars! They'll be here tomorrow (killer shipping!) but I haven't even ordered my new RSMs yet.Quote:
Originally Posted by slater
They're pretty nice to stare at. Good colorQuote:
Originally Posted by 704sw
Anybody know what is the thickness of the wires that go into the LCM? I am trying to hook my AEs to pin 41 of the LCM. I already have the bushing contact (part# 61130008998)...just need some wires to extend it to the AE wiring into the 'drug-bin'. I was looking at 20AWG here:
https://www.amazon.ca/Striveday-Flex...4680941&sr=8-2
I might also look into replacing the crappy wires within the ZKW headlamp assembly which seem to be falling apart. Should I go with thicker wires just to be safe?
Redline will recommend the ATF. That's what I used, but many around here have used the MTL. Honestly I wish I would have used it in this mild weather. The ATF just feels too notchy to me.Quote:
Originally Posted by ZHPizza
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I just did a drain and refill and went with atf
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Anyone wanna chime in lol? I was hoping to have all the parts in place to do the DIY over the upcoming long weekend.
Quote:
Originally Posted by anandoc
Is the LCM gauge the same as the rest of the car? If so, I'll measure some of what I have laying around.Quote:
Originally Posted by anandoc
Thanks man. Yes, I believe the LCM wires are the same thickness as the other interior wiring (homelink wires, interior lights etc). Also, I am guessing Silicone insulation is better than PVC? This is what I was planing on buying:Quote:
Originally Posted by 704sw
https://www.amazon.ca/Striveday-Flex...4680941&sr=8-2
I measured my extra rear view pigtail as 20AWG (it's a 0.08mm difference between 20 and 22 AWG). I think you'll be okay.Quote:
Originally Posted by anandoc
Sorry but I don't know the answer to your silicon vs. PVC question [emoji53]
Thanks again. I will go with the 20AWG wires then. A quick google search shows me that silicone insulation is better than PVC because its more flexible (easier to route) and is able to handle higher temperatures.Quote:
Originally Posted by 704sw
Is the manual transmission for ZHPs the ZF GS6-37BZ (part no. 23007532498)?
I thought there were at least two. GM? I'm sure someone here will correct me.Quote:
Originally Posted by BMWCurves
I thought the GM was auto trans...Quote:
Originally Posted by ELCID86
See, there's one! I think you may be right Sandeep.Quote:
Originally Posted by san
Quote:
Originally Posted by ELCID86
The auto was GM. Same one made its way into the X3 also. It seems like people don't have the same hatred with it in RWD like they do with AWD.Quote:
Originally Posted by san
I think the autos came in two flavors - GM and ZF. The ZF ones were notorious for the "no reverse" issues.Quote:
Originally Posted by 704sw
so now that my swap is done and my odometer is back to where its suppsoed to be.. I went ahead and scheduled my driver and passenger side airbag recall at the local dealer. they have the parts in stock so next wednsday ill go for 2 hours they said and it will be done.
i'm curious how that will go down with the swap lol.
i have a feeling they will try to say its not covered due to the swap or M3 cluster change out or that even though i retained my original airbags.. i modified my steering wheel by getting it custom wrapped.
it will be interesting :shifty
Keep us posted. BMW Canada gave me a hard time with my driver's side airbag recall.Quote:
Originally Posted by nextelbuddy
I think you should be fine, as long as the airbag replacement fits in your wheel. Though watch out for them scratching up your lower plastic trim.Quote:
Originally Posted by nextelbuddy
I don't know how anyone can screw that up. It honestly takes 30 seconds to swap the airbag and at no point should anything come near the trim.Quote:
Originally Posted by holyc0w
Yes. And yes!Quote:
Originally Posted by holyc0w
It seems to have happened too often. I'm guessing they have some special tool?
That tool must work at a lot of different dealerships! ;-)
You would think.. I had to go back to the dealership after getting mine done because either they forgot to plug the horn part back in or they had it pinched to where it wouldn't work. And I like to think I never use my horn but I learned the frustrating way that it wasn't working. Person in front of me was on their phone and we had a green arrow. Took so long for the person to realize it was green that I pretty much ran a red light behind them...Quote:
Originally Posted by ZHPizza
Hey guys so I want to buy these Lugs. But I'm confused to what size I would need and I'm running regular wheel bolts.. I heard I need like some Wheel stud kit? Which do you recommend? And I've been seeing Japanese versions of these Lugs and American. Which is it? I want official Lugs lol
I also read that I can run spacers without a longer bolt with these right?
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...d9e3627948.png
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Go with a brand like APEX, Turner, etc.Quote:
Originally Posted by L0veZHP
Not everyone agrees, but I really like the way stud conversion looks. Only reason I opted out of it was because the 75mm kits were going to be too long for the way my wheels are shaped. CH or Arc-8s are a little more "stud-friendly." Someone is selling a brand new APEX 75mm kit over on M3forum right now for $100 shipped, which is about a $35 discount.
A brand like APEX or Turner for studs or the lugs?
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This would be what a kit would look like:Quote:
Originally Posted by L0veZHP
http://farm4.staticflickr.com/3774/9...e92d14ca_c.jpg
You could get different lugs if you so desired.
Those look nice
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What "overall length"? I plan to run 15mm spacers in the front none in the back
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I have the Muteki. That looks like my setup. Thst looks like my picture.Quote:
Originally Posted by L0veZHP
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...720f4e17f7.jpg
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