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As mentioned over at the "How many miles did you drive in 2022?" thread, I only drove 4,334 miles this year, but that's mostly down to being a resident intern and having no real time to drive, except to and from work, and I live near my program's main hospital.
https://i.imgur.com/DKdLjmh.jpg
The stats:
Mileage at end of 12/31/22: 91,000
Mileage on 01/01/22: 86,666
Total miles driven 2022: 4,334
Estimated mileage for 2022: 7,500
Percent difference in estimated vs. actual: -42%
I am prepping to do my OFHG replacement in a few weeks, I have stuff for an oil change and the oil filter housing gasket itself. What else do I need? I'll be following this guide that seem straightforward: https://blog.fcpeuro.com/how-to-repl...s-line-bmw-e46
It’s pretty straightforward, just a lot of fasteners. Just get a good torque wrench. Don’t want to snapping bolts while torquing down the OFH bolts.Quote:
Originally Posted by BMWCurves
You can replace a lot is things while you’re there but other than that, you don’t really need a lot of parts or tools while replacing the OFHG.
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Buy new crush washers for the VANOS oil feed line. If you're loosening the top and bottom, get 4. If only the bottom, get 2. You don't need to loosen the top unless you're replacing the line.Quote:
Originally Posted by BMWCurves
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Have a torque wrench figuratively in hand.Quote:
Originally Posted by san
Perfect. I replaced the VANOS oil feed line a few years ago, so I don't need to replace it.Quote:
Originally Posted by az3579
Mileage: 92,090
Maintenance update: Finally got around to replacing the OFHG. Boy was it oily down in there, with tons of crud/dirt/grime all in those wings/fins of the main housing. Pretty straight forward, really. I sat there for a little bit confused because I glossed over the need to remove the bolts the power steering pump in order to get the oil filter housing loose. Had to remove the power steering pump pulley as well as the Turner power pulleys have an extra lip over stock that meant I couldn't fit a socket over one of the bolts. Other than that, not too many issues. No pictures, was in a bit of a rush.
References:
- https://www.pelicanparts.com/BMW/tec...eplacement.htm
- https://blog.fcpeuro.com/how-to-repl...s-line-bmw-e46
- https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zC_cmsX68Ok
I'll be moving to NYC in late June so I'll be leaving my car behind at my folks' place for at least the next year. Just getting her up to date on maintenance and trying to figure out the best storage solution.
Other maintenance items:
List updated as of 05/03/2023
Green = parts already purchased
Maintenance
Fluids
- Brake fluid: Overdue, have spare bottle of Pentosin DOT4 LV (Currently ATE SL6-1)
- Power steering fluid: Overdue by a few thousand miles (30k interval) and about one year overdue for flush (five year interval). Continue to use ATF. See below regarding power steering lines.*
Mechanical items
- Power steering lines: Leak noted previously by my mechanic. Relatively sure it's the feed line (32416774215[?]), but may also be the return hose (32416796390) or suction hose (32416750155). Should also just assess if other lines/components need to be replaced.*
- Replace lower coolant hose (11531436408) at next coolant flush (82141467704) next year.
- Replace soft fuel lines to/from fuel filter.
- Replace differential bushings: One of them (unclear which) was found to be cracked by BMW dealership during complementary inspection. Will purchase OEM rubber parts (front: 33176770788, rear: 33176751808).
- Adjust upper (13541438761) and lower intake boots (13541438759): Replaced when installing ZHPizza's large bore throttle body, but don't seem perfectly aligned (some bend in the upper intake boot).
- Replace AC blower: Although squeaking/fluttering sound has improved, will at some point need to replace the AC blower motor
- Replace driveshaft guibo/flexdisc (26117511454) and the center support bearing (26127501257). DIY guide here.
Exterior
- Repair cracked/dying rear window gaskets using this guide
- Replace or renew fading side markers
- Replace right tail light for three dead LEDs in the medial line of vertical LEDs of the brake light
- Find screw for front license plate bracket
Miscellaneous
- Replace spare tire: I believe mine is original and should be replaced (I think it is T125/80R17)
- Get alignment following Bimmerworld spherical RTAB installation (see below)***
- New tires, the PS4s are wearing out.
- Find a replacement for the Xtrons headunit, it is SLOW
Modifications
Suspension
- Install Bimmerworld Spherical RTABs.***
- Install 330Cic or Xi rear sway bar (33556751267) w/ correct bushings (33551096669)
Engine/drivetrain:
- Install M3 fuel baffle (16112229656)
- Install M3 motor mounts (11812283798 [2x])
- Purchase/install LSD of some sort with 3.23 or 3.38 ratio
- Purchase/install the M56 valve cover per this thread or purchase German Auto Solutions CCV Replacement Kit
- Fabricate/install custom brake duct air scoop: Using this guide
Electronics
- Recode the car as a convertible to have one touch up/down windows: Using this guide. Would also require new center console trim and window switch (61316902183)
- Install M3 gauge cluster if someone can figure out coding the shift lights for a manual, non-M car.
- Install Bavsound Stage 1 speaker kit
Interior
- Repaint the Black Cube Trim to Silver Cube trim: Using this "guide" and Precision Grey paint from Advance Auto.
- Fix lower steering wheel trim through this guy
- Install the euro tray (51167038323)
- Consider ID4Motion's digital cluster
Exterior
- Purchase/paint brake calipers black using G2 kit
- Install used OEM Shark Fin
I wrote up a DIY to install an OEM M3 gauge cluster.Quote:
Originally Posted by BMWCurves
http://www.zhpmafia.com/forums/showt...etrofit-Thread
Since your car is a coupe all you need is to have your RPM Red LEDs changed (contact info provided in DIY) so the new red line starts at 7k rpm (changing out two amber LEDs for red LEDs.
Then contacting Dimitri in Vienna (contact info in DIY) to have an interface box made that will have the OEM M3 gauge cluster work in your ZHP.
I did my retrofit in this manner and have a functional Gauge cluster including shift lights[emoji41] I was not able to find any information on how to code in the DME and Gauge Cluster to work although I know Terraphantm (Mirza) had done the programming. I reached out to him when I began my OEM M3 gauge cluster project and he never responded so I found another solution which also works then wrote up and posted the DIY here to help others . . .
Very impressive list!! [emoji1417]
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Will, I also recommend replacing the VANOS oil supply line and banjo bolts while you're doing your OFHG. Also get the Viton gasket as it will last much longer than the oem one.Quote:
Originally Posted by BMWCurves
https://www.ecstuning.com/b-bavarian...21719855v~bav/
I would rather do this once than having to do this again because the gasket failed a few months later...
I did! Well, I replaced the VANOS oil feed line a while ago when I replaced my VANOS. This time I replaced the crush washers and banjo bolts. And I used a Viton gasket from Bavarian Autosport (now owned? by ECS Tuning).Quote:
Originally Posted by cakM3
As for the cluster, very much on my "to do in the future" list, but unlikely to be done soon. I loved reading your write up, very straightforward, although it'll take some time before I'm there
When you are ready to do the M3 Gauge Cluster retrofit . . . if you decide to go with my DIY, don't hesitate to contact me to go over everything if you need [emoji1417]Quote:
Originally Posted by BMWCurves
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