Quick question, how much of a difference would a performance throttle body make on fuel economy?
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Quick question, how much of a difference would a performance throttle body make on fuel economy?
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None. It only adds 5hp if that
Gotcha, maybe I am just heavy footed lolQuote:
Originally Posted by Sockethead
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Probably :)
When replacing tie rods, is it required to replace the tie rod assembly or just the end?
Assembly left side - 32106777503
Just tie rods left side - 32106774220
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It's generally recommended to do the outer and inner tie rod (assembly).
From what I read, it's advised to do both but I'm curious to hear what others say. I suspect mine are in need of some love too.Quote:
Originally Posted by san
Do the inner and outer at the same time. Inner joint does develop play as well.
Purchase new boots as well.
Thanks Vas!Quote:
Originally Posted by Vas
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No Problem.Quote:
Originally Posted by san
I had done this on my wife's zhp at 139k.
Yep be sure to get the boot. I think I bought a kit.
ok all done and had no issues getting both airbags done. really painless experience for me and was surprised.Quote:
Originally Posted by nextelbuddy
Brand recommendation for oil level sensor?
I used HellaQuote:
Originally Posted by stephenkirsh
This.Quote:
Originally Posted by Sockethead
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+1. Same thing as the BMW unit with the logo scrubbed off.Quote:
Originally Posted by Sockethead
And here is a link for it on Amazon.comQuote:
Originally Posted by stephenkirsh
https://www.amazon.com/ENGINE-SENSOR...5665390&sr=8-1
$54.09 at FCPEuro with lifetime replacement.Quote:
Originally Posted by anandoc
Getting the oil sign on my dash this past week, comes on sometimes and not others. Owned the car for about 6k miles now, oil change necessary? Someone told me that BMW is known to flash oil at pretty short intervals. How often do you guys change? Told myself to do it after the first 5k(whoops) and in 10k intervals after that
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Did you check the oil level? It could be low.
Is this the correct part number for the RTAB? 33326770786
Any other bushings I can replace without dropping the entire rear sub frame? I am looking at the realoem diagram and I am confused...
https://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/sho...diagId=33_0840
33326770817 is the M3/Z4M version of the RTAB, you should probably get that one if you are sticking with OEM.Quote:
Originally Posted by san
i would also replace the rear outer control arm bushings (in the hub assembly): M3 version is 33326775551, QTY4 (upper and lower, 2 per side)
Thanks Peter!Quote:
Originally Posted by slater
On the M3 the 33326775551 ball joint is on the lower and upper side, but for Non M's the lower is not actually a ball joint but can be used, as in an upgrade correct?
Not Peter, but yes - thats correct. On the non-Ms, the outer lower is a bushing. Its recommended to replace that with the ball joint that Peter suggested. I did the same to my car a few months ago.Quote:
Originally Posted by san
EDIT: Part# 33306852895 supersedes 33326775551.
Thanks anandoc! Appreciate the input...Quote:
Originally Posted by anandoc
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Congratulations that's great news!Quote:
Originally Posted by nextelbuddy
iPhone/Tapatalk Pro
Guys... I need help.
Topped off my oil today, full synthetic, and she started acting really weird. Like not good. First the engine was sloshing it around making the whole car shake, then when it was trying to idle it jumped between 1k and 500 a few times before it came to a stop at 600(normal right?). Well when I revved it I got backfire for the first time owning this car, and it was this shallow gurgling backfire. Waiting a couple minutes and did it again and now it's throwing white smoke out of the back... smells burnt. YAY she's burning oil! Checked inside the oil cap:
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...fc1b39b3a2.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...03a696499e.jpg
There's buildup inside the tank, orange particles. Going in for an oil change on Tuesday now, but my brother is concerned that it's burning oil either due to a blown head gasket, cracked cylinder head, worn piston rings, cracked block...
I don't know anymore guys, I'm freaking out
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Any codes?
Don't have a reader but there isn't even a check engine light on the dashQuote:
Originally Posted by Karl Lazlo
Starting it up again now and going to drive it around for a bit, still backfiring after revving.
My other guess is that it might be bc I topped it off with Speedway synthetic, checked the last change and it was all Mobil 1, so it might be a reaction of sorts :/
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Speedway makes synthetic oil?
Oh god I'll hate myself if this isn't synthetic https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...015647a6b9.jpgQuote:
Originally Posted by holyc0w
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Not an e46 question, but here we go. The alternator on my Saab is bad. I need to use jumper cables to start it. I'm thinking about driving to Houston (3 hour trip) and trade-in the car over there. I won't turn off the car until I arrive to the dealer.
Does this sound ok ? I don't want to create or experience additional issues with my plan.
I don't think the battery will last so long without the alternator recharging it.
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If it's not, it shouldn't create the issues you mentioned.Quote:
Originally Posted by Prestovie
That's what I figured... best bet right now is head gasket, turns out it's 12hrs in labor which is like $1800 at the dealership, brother says we can do it in 18hrsQuote:
Originally Posted by holyc0w
I've got an oil change on Tuesday so I'll have them pressure test the cooling system to see if it's actually the coolant leaking in
Not excited about this to say the least, just did a $3600 clutch job and bought all new rubber, thought I'd be done at least for the year
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You will not make it if your alternator is bad.Quote:
Originally Posted by fredo
Look at the symptoms...
If the car won't start on its own, jump start it. Take the jumper leads off right after jumping. Does the car continue running just fine, with no loss of power or electrical function? If so, your battery is probably bad. In this scenario, the car will continue working just fine as long as it's running. Once you stop it, it won't start up again.
If the car does not continue working, or if electrical function is greatly reduced, your alternator probably isn't charging the battery, and as a result is running off the battery. In this scenario, you need to replace the alternator before you consider making any longer trips, otherwise you'll have to constantly stop, hook up jumper cables, let it charge up for a while, and then rinse + repeat.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Prestovie
Oil doesn't cause misfiring issues. You should look into electrical or fuel-related problems. Coils, spark plugs, fuel pump, fuel filter, MAF... just a few off the top of my head.
Out of curiosity, why do you think you need a head gasket? That mayo garbage you saw under the oil filler cap is normal if you drive your car on short trips, thanks to the stupid way the CCV system is designed. Go for a much longer drive, say 30-60 minutes, and you'll see that mayo disappears.
I would only think head gasket because of the burning coolant that's coming out of the exhaust, the smell is dreadful.Quote:
Originally Posted by az3579
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Guess that's what happens when I do drive-bys from being too lazy to read every line. lolQuote:
Originally Posted by Prestovie
Lol no worriesQuote:
Originally Posted by az3579
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Thanks, BP and San. I don't want to risk it, so I'm aborting the plan.