Nope. But I do have off days where my shifting feels shitty. But that's on me, not the car.
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Hey guys,
I have a question RE whether or not you guys are familiar with a strange noice my car has been making.
When parked, car off, flat surface, engine warm, half tank
Start car (clutch in)
Neutral
Leave clutch in, no noise
Let clutch out, very faint sound of fluid sloshing back and forth audible from outside car, near or in front of rear right wheel
Push clutch in again, sound remains
Is this the fuel pump, possibly sucking up some air making noises? it really sounds more like a slow sloshing
Anyone heard this?
Thanks,
Josh
Let me just take a moment to say
WHAT IN THE HOLY BUTTF***???
https://www.ecstuning.com/b-genuine-...t/67136946313/
That is over $300 more than the price I was bitching about a few years ago...
Does anyone know how the oil level sensor works in terms of how often it measures the oil level and if it needs a set number "oil level low signatures" to trigger the yellow low oil level light?
How challenging is it to get that subframe brace off to access the oil level sensor?
Couple of unrelated questions for yous:
1. Has anyone that still have their factory hood insulation (part no. 51488193941) noticed that it has shrunk? The side tabs of my insulation barely touch the slots in the hood, let alone "snap" into place.
2. For those of you with a GruppeM intake, do you hear a sucking/whistling sound at a light throttle that maintains speed? I have that sound only at steady-state, but if I have no throttle input or a larger throttle input, then it goes away.
3. I'm going to install my OEM M3 strut bar, is there any particular order the nuts of the bar should be tightened e.g. the mounts first, then the bar, etc.?
Yup, those shrink over time. Mine developed a hole in the middle so I got rid of it completely.
I dont have a GruppeM but my Afe does something like this as well.Quote:
2. For those of you with a GruppeM intake, do you hear a sucking/whistling sound at a light throttle that maintains speed? I have that sound only at steady-state, but if I have no throttle input or a larger throttle input, then it goes away.
No particular order that I am aware of. You install the brackets on each side first and then install the bar connecting the two brackets.Quote:
3. I'm going to install my OEM M3 strut bar, is there any particular order the nuts of the bar should be tightened e.g. the mounts first, then the bar, etc.?
I replaced my 'shrunken' hood insulator around 40,000 mi. (11 years). I trimmed it back a bit to clear my new ECS strut bar, and repainted it with bed liner spray.
The GruppeM sound is normal. Love it - makes it sound like I have a turbo. Lol
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Are there any downsides to getting rid of the hood insulation? Better to replace?
Not paying $93 for a new hood insulation. And the used ones seem to be all shrunk/torn. Plus, I get to hear my aFe intake :)
https://www.ecstuning.com/b-genuine-...n/51488193941/
I heard the insulation provides some protection against fires. I think it's along the lines of it giving people a little more time to get out of the car before the fire gets worse. I'd replace it, personally.
Mine shrunk and I replaced. It's mainly for engine fire protection (suppression) from what I understand. Maybe helps with sound deadening?
Not sure re Gruppe M, don't know that mine makes that sound.
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I have no evidence to support it, but I'd think long term it would help the paint by having it there. Don't want your bonnet looking like every Honda out there with clear coat failure.
Thank you all for the resounding response, gentleman!
http://i.imgur.com/OFfDZkp.gif
A quick google search did not show me any evidence that the hood insulation helps with fire suppression or that its absence can affect the hood paint adversely. All I see is that it serves as a sound insulation (from RealOEM desc. and ECS Tuning part desc.).
Not saying that I don't trust you guys, but do you have any links which say that it helps in fire suppression etc or is it just something that makes logical sense?
forget the insulation. i'm going to pin up a nomex suit to the underside of the hood.
Mine stays in place, but the front driver's side tab has "shrunk" to the point where it won't stay in the hood slot. Even at $88 it's hard to justify replacing it when it looks great otherwise. Perhaps a strip of double-sided tape or Velcro will remedy the situation.
My problem is I tried to stretch the tabs a bit and tore a hole. :facepalm Tape works for a while, but it's still annoying having the powder come out.
Noise diagnosis: Backing out of the driveway this morning I heard a single click/pop as I turned the wheel. Each of the 4 righthand turns between the house and office were also accompanied by a single pop. (Edit: it does not make this sound when turning left).
I'm going to check the end links during lunch, but what are my other possible culprits? CV? I have tie rods waiting to go in, as I'm trying to resolve some wheel vibration at 50mph+. Any advice is welcome. Thanks, gentlemen.
did you install those front konis yet?
sounds like a ball joint or tie rod end. both are original as they were in good shape at that point. it's not going to be a CV as your car is RWD. ;)
i replaced the end links and FCABs last summer - doubtful that the FCABs are the issue, as that's not a symptom of FCAB failure... wheel jerk under light braking is the dead giveaway.
Has anyone installed Hella Supertone horns? I watched a couple of videos on YouTube and have to say I'm not exactly happy with the way it sounds, but they do sound loud as hell, which is what I'm going for. I kind of want something loud and lower toned like the VW GLI that I have.
I'd mainly want to find out if the Supertone horns are indeed loud enough...
install a GLI horn?
That's the answer!
I had Hella Supertones on my 2002tii (painted the red shileds black), but removed them in favor of the Stebel Nautilus. I was interested in LOUD & compact, not a specific tone.
http://www.stebel-usa.com/product/
This? https://youtu.be/jUBBGxyAN4M
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"ZHP is a garbage option anyway- just some cosmetic upgrades with a different cam and diff to claw back some of the performance lost fitting those hideous and heavy wheels. Any 330 with a 3.46 diff will smoke a ZHP every time. The whole Mafia thing reeks of childish behavior." - anonymous E46 fanatic
1. What's a common/good copper-based anti-seize compound people use?
2. Which was the ATE brake fluid someone suggested for non-track use that was not Typ 200? Was it SL.6?