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there's a line etched in both the splined shaft, and the wheel - did you see those? just 'em up and you're good.Quote:
Originally Posted by 704sw
did you make any other suspension changes?
i just replaced the tie rod assemblies in the black Touring last night and the steering wheel, even though i did my best to adjust the new units to be exactly the same length as the old ones, is still pointing to about 10 o'clock.
Yep, I lined them up! Unless I'm going blind...Quote:
Originally Posted by slater
So far I've done: Koni yellows, Lemmy FCAs (reused the FCABs you put in), tie rods, 26mm M3 coupe front bar, 20mm xi rear bar.
My to-do list now is: H&R front springs (I put rears in last weekend, FCP delivers new upper front perches tomorrow so maybe this weekend), TC Kline camber plates/hats, adjustable rear control arms, upper/lower inner/outer rear arm bushings, adjustable end links.
I bought some UUC adjustable rear links, but they're designed for aftermarket sway bars, not OEM. Kind of a bummer, but that's life.
Do you need adjustable end links for either of those OEM sway bars in our coupes?Quote:
Originally Posted by 704sw
You should use adjustable links to remove preload if the car is lowered. The H&R sport springs aren't very low, and I admittedly would probably be fine without. But, I plan on getting her on a track next year, so I'd rather do it right.Quote:
Originally Posted by BMWCurves
You're on factory springs, yes? If so then you have no worries that I see.
Ah, okay. Makes sense to me. I just glossed over the H&R springs on your list of things to do.Quote:
Originally Posted by 704sw
Yea if you ever get a UUC rear swaybar, you have to use those links.
Probably already been mentioned somewhere...When you install the Koni Yellows there is no nub to align the strut in the steering knuckle so you have to spend a little extra time to figure that out...
I have H&R sport springs and my car is pretty darn low....
Need someone to weigh in on this; when you're driving and you come to a stop sign... is it more fuel efficient to come to a complete stop and start in 1st gear from the stop, or to come to a very low roll then get through in second gear? Asking for a friend [emoji102]
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I would guess on rolling through, as stopping takes longer and wastes more energy.
Rolling through uses less fuel.
It might be more cost effective to stop at a stop sign vs. risk a ticket for a moving violation, fines, points on your license & insurance premium increase.Quote:
Originally Posted by Prestovie
Going back, any time you hit the brakes you're wasting fuel, because you'll have to use more to accelerate. The solution of course is not hitting the brakes.
What are our options for replacing the front door panel vinyl? Mine have become worn and sticky and just wondering what some of you have done?
Clean it?Quote:
Originally Posted by JPMo
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Is it tan/sand? That was happening to my son's (and then he totaled it--which I don't recommend:)Quote:
Originally Posted by JPMo
I guess my random question is:
Will Peter need a change of pants after seeing this?
https://www.google.com/amp/jalopnik....bmw-1807152574
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Damn that's sexy. I love the subtlety of Stahlblau too.Quote:
Originally Posted by az3579
Although I prefer the E46 to E9x, I think this E91 conversion might be the most beautiful wagon I've ever seen:
http://www.speedhunters.com/2014/02/...y-never-built/
Quote:
Originally Posted by az3579
I'll take one of each, please.Quote:
Originally Posted by 704sw
I thought the same thing, fixed the stickiness but I feel like the Adams foaming interior cleaner I used took off some dye so it looks a bit more worn.Quote:
Originally Posted by az3579
No :/ I have a black interiorQuote:
Originally Posted by ELCID86
I doubt it removed dye. It's designed for interiors, so that shouldn't be happening.Quote:
Originally Posted by JPMo
Sometimes cleaning stuff reveals it's true condition. It probably really is that worn.
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Does anyone else experience trouble shifting into second gear when at higher RPM's? I'll be trying to get a first gear pull in off the line and I can't for the life of me shift smoothly into second. I almost have to wait a second in between the shifts or I totally miss the bite point and the whole car lurches
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I don't have this issue (more getting into first at a stop on occasion), but I think others have mentioned it before.Quote:
Originally Posted by Prestovie
Yes, I experience trouble shifting into 2nd at higher RPMs. I've believed it was just me being a bit rusty at shifting a manual again, but would be interested to learn if there is a reason beyond pilot-error at play here ;-)
Do you still have the clutch delay valve in there? That could cause that...
It'll happen to me if I'm shifting really quickly. Not sure if it's from the slop in my shifter, but I'm probably going to follow Peter's "bulletproof" shifter refurb to see what difference it makes.
I thought it just took some time for the revs to drop enough.
Definitely an idea that popped into my head, but dang is it a long wait time relative to banging through gears if you're trying to get that 0-60 downQuote:
Originally Posted by holyc0w
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Not entirely sure what that is lol, how can I check?Quote:
Originally Posted by Sockethead
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Where could I find that thread?Quote:
Originally Posted by 704sw
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The clutch delay valve (CDV) connects the hard line to the soft line of the clutch line. I believe it's designed to help reduce clutch wear by slowing the movement of the clutch hydraulic fluid (brake fluid in our cars) and thus the engagement of the clutch. It makes the clutch grab point mushy. Removing it is pretty easy and makes clutch pedal feel much better.Quote:
Originally Posted by Prestovie
Below is one DIY. He uses a replacement CDV that is modified with a larger bore. You don't have to do that, you can simply remove the factory CDV and directly connect the soft line to the hard line.
http://www.bmw330ci.net/projects/cdv.php
I'm working on the garage right so I don't have time to check but if you search for CDV you should be able to find it. There should be something in the DIY section I would imagineQuote:
Originally Posted by Prestovie
It actually increases clutch wear. Since the fluid is released more slowly, there's more slipping. The effect is probably minute, but on the other side it might be more gentle on the transmission.Quote:
Originally Posted by BMWCurves
Yup, I didn't really articulate my idea well. But minimize drive train shock, rather than preserve clutch wear.Quote:
Originally Posted by holyc0w
Quote:
Originally Posted by Prestovie
These cars are so slow, what's the point. lol
Might as well just wait for the revs to drop.
Anyone have a link to a diy to change the headlights bulbs on a Zhp coupe? I could only find diy's for the pre facelift ones.
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Edit: I was incorrect, BMW did use a different retainer than the rest of the automotive world for the E46. Use William's video.Quote:
Originally Posted by san
You have to remove the washer reservoir if I remember right...
This looks like it applies to facelifted, xenon coupes:Quote:
Originally Posted by san
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LXqkFytdg98
The truth hurts :(Quote:
Originally Posted by az3579
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I know... Been feeling the pain way too long. LolQuote:
Originally Posted by Prestovie
Will just have to wait more until F80 M3 Competition Package cars come way down in price or until I start making $30k more a year, whichever comes first!
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Good Price?? I've been wanting one just been waiting for eBay or someone on the forum to sell one.. https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...310face7b7.png
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