How much of a “lift” is recommended for winter time? Should I just adjust my coils all the way up? Lol
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How much of a “lift” is recommended for winter time? Should I just adjust my coils all the way up? Lol
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Park it and get a winter beater.Quote:
Originally Posted by L0veZHP
Move south and you can drive it all year long
in Charlotte we get 2-3 snowy days a year
Fixed that for ya’ :)Quote:
Originally Posted by Yelkos
HA, I stand corrected, you are 100% accurate.
thanks 704sw
Anyone who’s done the steering guibo: can you confirm the bolts are E8 torx? I’ve seen a couple conflicting answers.
Ughh ima go alll the way up!! Jeep Wrangler Life!
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Hmm sounds right.Quote:
Originally Posted by 704sw
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Doing the same thing I did last year again, I’m riding on unadjustable coil overs and didn’t run into any problems last year during the Chicago winterQuote:
Originally Posted by L0veZHP
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Been thinking about keeping my ride height the same too.. what coils do you run? I never really used my car like that in the winter but I have summer tires now so I have to switch it up. You think I should raise it up more tho? I’m lowered but I’m not slammed. Idk if it’s worth the time and money raising it up and then putting it back down when it gets warmer. It’ll be nice to have something different so when the summer comes and I drop and put my bbs back on I’ll be like 🤤🤤Quote:
Originally Posted by Prestovie
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...a39e78541c.pnghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...d296d662ba.png
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If memory serves me well, E8 should be right. I've changed it last year, so I cannot be 100% sure.Quote:
Originally Posted by 704sw
I remember that I've struggled to remove guibo from the rack. There is steel to aluminum connection, which seized over time. It took me some time and work with various crowbars to pry guibo out. Plus I didn't have much room under the car since it was placed on the jack stands.
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Ride height would depend on how much snow you want to plow. If you don't expect to be driving in deeper snow, you should be okay at current height.
Which wheels do you have installed in this shot? Offset?Quote:
Originally Posted by L0veZHP
Sorry I don’t remember the offset but they’re vmr csl reps 18x8.5 front 18x9.5 back if I find out I’ll let you knowQuote:
Originally Posted by cornercarver
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Got the Hotchkis front bar and Bimmerworld adjustable endlinks installed...
Attachment 31255
Attachment 31256
A friend of mine who knows E46's inside and out said he heard people with these bars have had the frame mounts fail when set on the stiffest setting and cornering aggressively... Anyone here experience this or hear the same kind of report? I've set it to the middle stiffness hole for the time being as I test out the balance with the rear bar (which is on the softer setting.)
I know the rear rear sway bar mount are weak. I think Turner or bimmerwork sell a reinforcement for that but they need to be welded in
The rear mounts actually come with a pretty hefty (maybe 1/4" or 3/8" thick) reinforcing plate which gets added to the back of the chassis bracket. This picks up the bottom hole, which doesn't exist on the oem bracket, and helps stiffen it. The front bar comes with a spacer to move the bar/ brackets down to clear the notch in the side of the frame, but doesn't reinforce the mount at all. In fact, it moves the bar 1/4" further away from the frame, and 1/4" further down on the bolts.
I think my friend's anectdotal evidence suggests that the mount or screws pull out of the frame. Doesn't the M3 have the same type of mounts?
Rear bar mount fwiw:
That's cool... Nice to see that grease fitting in that mount too
Did a little digging, found a few instances of failures... The front bar mount weakness has apparently been an issue with some E46 M3's and base models with larger bars on full-stiff. Now I'm worried... Going to change to the softest setting until I can get someone to do a little welding.
http://www.m3forum.net/m3forum/showthread.php?t=420445
Is the E46 M3 front sway bar on our cars an actual upgrade? I know the MM are different and with new bushings even our OEM sway bars will feel drastically different.. but I don’t want to pony up on buying bushings for my stock 330 sway bar, if I can probably source an M3 one for rather cheap locally.
Let me hear your opinions!
I’ve also considered the UUC strutbarbarian but I don’t track my car at all
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The ZHP front bar is actually lighter than stock. I don't know why, but someone here once ascribed it to BMW wisdom.
I went with a M3 bar and felt an immediate and substantial improvement in handling in my ZHP. Never looked back.
I have a stock ZHP bar you can have if you want it.
I may have to consider that! I’ll be PM’ing youQuote:
Originally Posted by Dual
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Does anyone have a CarSoft or a peake SRS reset tool? After installing my E46 M3 seats, I managed to get the SRS light on my dash and PASoft won’t work to turn the light off
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That might be indicative of another problem. I've reset plenty of SRS lights through PA Soft.Quote:
Originally Posted by ZHP_Brandon
how much power can the 6-speed and rear end handle? Are there any upgrades for these parts? I'm assuming an M3 rear-end, but how about the tranny?
Vibrations: okay, so my steering wheel is shaking like crazy. The severity is intermittent, but when it’s bad, it’s REALLY bad. Tramlining seems a lot worse lately, but the tires look to have plenty of meat left. It‘s really only bad above ~60mph. It gets terrible under acceleration or going uphill, gets better as I coast on flat surfaces, but gets terrible again if I’m coasting/under load on a downhill surface.
I don’t think it’s anything on the back end, since it’s MUCH more noticeable in the steering wheel than in the seats. Because it’s worse under load, I’m not thinking it’s a balance problem, but I’m leaning towards driveshaft guibo and/or engine mounts? Thoughts? I have a steering guibo ready to go in as well.
Replaced items include shocks, springs, end links, front control arms (FCABs are fairly new), tie rods, tranny mounts, and it was aligned last week (but still pulling right?)
Are you running a square setup? If so, move the front tires to the back and see what happens...
One thing I've learned with these cars over the years is that they are really finicky when it comes to tires...
It’s staggered, but I switched front left and right tires before the drive back from Ohio and it still pulls right. I don’t think I have a dragging brake, since the dust accumulation is even on both sides, and I can’t hear anything. Bad wheel bearing, perhaps?Quote:
Originally Posted by Sockethead
You'd hear a bad wheel bearing before it affected handing that bad... I wouldn't rule out a frozen caliper but there are so many things that can cause a vibration/handing issues
if it's vibrating under acceleration, then it's either in the drivetrain (engine/trans mounts or driveshaft), or the rear suspension. rear suspension issues on these cars can indeed manifest themselves as vibrations in the steering wheel...
since you mention the tramlining is increasingly worse, i would look at suspension over drivetrain mounts. did you replace the rear outer control arm bushings yet? if not, definitely a good idea, and go with the upper unit in the lower location too.
Speaking of wheel bearing squeak - I noticed this when I had the car up recently; does it sound like a bearing or the pads/rotor?Quote:
Originally Posted by Sockethead
https://youtu.be/uMZ98Sd6hEU
The pads/rotor aren't that worn, so I don't think it's the brake wear indicator.
I noticed a squeak while driving, but it's so faint compared to road noise that I can't tell if it's happening when the brakes are applied/not applied.
What suspension work have you done? Are the FCAB's new? Bent wheels?Quote:
Originally Posted by 704sw
I agree with Rob I don't think its the wheel bearing.
Something is out of alignment
Quote:
Originally Posted by slater
Okay Rob and Peter, I drove home for lunch with the windows down, and while going slowly over my driveway curb I heard a distinct “clunk clunk” on the passenger side. Going slowly through the neighborhood I heard a faint metal on metal sound.Quote:
Originally Posted by Newjack
I didn’t replace the FCABs since Peter replaced them, and I’ve only put 9k on it since purchase. FCAs and tie rods were replaced in July, so I can’t imagine it’s a ball joint failure. And Rob, I don’t think the wheels are bent since the pulling was the same after the left-right tire rotation.
Peter—I’ve not done the rear bushings yet, but I do have them sitting on the shelf. During lunch I ordered the 7 diff+subframe bushings/flex disc/CSB/fluids. I figured I’d do all if that + rear arm bushings all at the same time. I also bought new engine mounts which I’ll preventatively swap when I do the OPG. I guess I’m going to order some Lemmy FCABs right now, and see if FCP can add it to my order before it ships out.
I can't remember, are your sway bar end links new... and upper mount nut tight? They will make that sound going slow over bumps too...
Yep, I swapped them out for the E36 M3 links from Dane in front of his house on Sunday. They’re pretty darn tight.Quote:
Originally Posted by Sockethead
These are what Peter used. I’m not familiar with the brand, but it claims they’re poly.
https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/bmw...strong-adus604
I had poly fcab and then tried out the Z4m fcab.Quote:
Originally Posted by 704sw
Same feel.
I say ditch the poly and go with solid rubber
interesting... clunk-clunk and metal on metal definitely aren't related. the clunk-clunk could be a loose strut top nut (the big guy), swaybar endlink, or ball joint... but i doubt the last two are the issue since you just replaced those.Quote:
Originally Posted by 704sw
it could potentially be a bad FCAB, but generally those manifest themselves as tugs in the steering wheel when you first apply the brakes...
i've used those on maybe 5-6 cars now - for my own and for friends, and they seem to hold up really well. they're an interesting design that should provide increased life and performance, while not being as 'stiff' as something like the AKG FCABs. i guess it's entirely possible one went bad? they are not hard to change; you could always swap them left-to-right (you should be able to press them out of the housings easily enough) and see if your pulling changes.Quote:
Originally Posted by 704sw
my only beef with the Z4M FCABs is that they relocate the wheel further forward in the wheel well... it just looks weird to me. aside from that... the increased caster benefits should be totally worth it...... i actually have a set of these in the garage that i've been wanting to try. :)Quote:
Originally Posted by Vas
My trunk keeps moaning at me: something about the struts, and it's getting louder. Replace or lubricate? If the latter, where and with what?
Thanks...
every e46 I've owned makes that noise lol