I break every tab I touch. :facepalm
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I break every tab I touch. :facepalm
Because BMW.... I sweat every time I go to disconnect something made of plasticQuote:
Originally Posted by holyc0w
I think that is my least favorite part of working on a 10+ year old BMW, the heat-cycled plastic. It's like my car has age-induced osteoporosis.Quote:
Originally Posted by Sockethead
I seem to have some more missing plastic in my MAF too. Didn't really think too much until I started looking at MAF pictures online. I don't seem to have the plastic guard with the BMW logo. I'm not sure what happened there or recall if I saw it there before. Uhhh.... :scratchinghead
This guy on youtube also had his go missing.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XkOSFYeG90g
The BMW logo isn't present on aftermarket units. Plus, the car in the video is a MY 2000 pre-facelift car, so it's a different MAF than what we have on our 330's.Quote:
Originally Posted by holyc0w
Are you talking about this part?Quote:
Originally Posted by az3579
Attachment 31468
It seems to be pictured on all the MAFs, though there's a real possibility that's not a bmw symbol.
No, I thought you were referring to the top flat part where the connector goes in. My bad.
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any old car will be the same way, it has nothing to do with BMW... :)Quote:
Originally Posted by BMWCurves
you get used to handling those bits with extra finesse.
Quote:
Originally Posted by slater
Fixed
My 22 year old miata has far less broken plastic and rubber bits than my zhp. And 40,000 more miles.Quote:
Originally Posted by slater
I’m already sold on adding a Miata to the stable, you can stop trying to convince me.Quote:
Originally Posted by stephenkirsh
:roflQuote:
Originally Posted by az3579
weird. but it probably has far less plastic, anyway. also, you live in a much more consistent-temperature climate, it's the hot-cold-hot-cold-hot-cold that kills plastic.Quote:
Originally Posted by stephenkirsh
I'm also reading that the adhesive could pull the coating off the trim if you need to re-adjust the wrap.Quote:
Originally Posted by 704sw
I want to refresh the suspension on my 2005 ZHP with 145k miles. I have most of the service recs since 2005, and I can see only this has been done to the suspension:
@ 90k miles : front control arm bushings (FCABs)
@ 126k miles : rear trailing arm bushings (RTABs)
I'm thinking this FCP suspension kit plus new FCABs should help my car big time:
https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/bmw...em-33500429577
Any thoughts or suggestions ?
Probably needs FCAB by now. I just did my front control arms at around 143k and the old ones were still in great shape same with the RTAB. You might want make sure they are truly worn out before spending the time and money for replacements.
+1
Some sort of inspection would be recommended. The swaybar could also be fine, though that should be checked along with the end-links. End-links are more likely to be worn and cheaper.
That kit also doesn't have the strut mounts and rear shock mounts. That would be recommended along with the reinforcement pieces.
Both cars are 100% California cars. Both spent plenty of time parked outside. One car is 2x older with 1/2 the frequency of plastic breakage.Quote:
Originally Posted by slater
I agree with the previous posters. As I said earlier, it depends how far you want to go for your suspension refresh. Personally, I'd do as much as I could at once so you wouldn't have to think about parts for another 50k miles minimum. Things you might consider:Quote:
Originally Posted by fredo
- Shocks/struts: I have Koni Yellows and have nothing but high praise for them (except for the manner of adjusting the rear shocks is a bit tedious.
- If you want a top-adjustable Koni Sport rear shock, you can use the ones meant for the Porsche 911 (part no. 82101159SPORT). This means the shocks won't have to be removed to be adjusted. I'm not 100% if any modifications are necessary to get the shock to fit or not). They're currently set at 3/4 turn from full soft and in my opinion it's a great balance of performance and daily comfort i.e. much more comfortable than my completely worn factory Sachs shocks, yet still better at damping as well. Other members have the Koni FSDs, and I'm sure you can't go wrong with them either. Plus, Koni supposedly has a great warranty and they shouldn't wear out on you like Sachs shocks do after about 50k miles.
- Shock/strut mounts: Replace these while you're in there. For the rear mounts, I'd suggest the Rogue Engineering ones. They cost a pretty penny, but they're much beefier than OEM and once they're installed you don't have to rip up your trunk to replace the shocks in the future, they're accessible from the wheel well.
- Strut tower reenforcement/rough road plates: cheap insurance to help against mushroom tower deformation.
- Z4M FCABs: I like them for the extra castor and solid rubber. Factory-spec rubber would be fine, but they're gel-filled I believe.
- Z4M RTABs: paired with Vorshlag poly limiters. Peter will chime in and tell you about the Bimmerworld spherical RTABs. I was too lazy to wait for him to install them and give me his thoughts, but if I were to do it again, I'd probably go that route.
- Springs: wholely dependent upon your goals. I kept stock springs because they're the right mix of comfort and performance and as much as I'd like a bit of a drop in my car, where I drive has far too many driveways and things that I would scrape my front bumper on if I lowered my car.
- Front and rear sway bar end links
- Front and rear sway bar bushings
- Spring pads front and rear: mine were old and cracked. Worth replacing
- Dust boots front and rear: optional, just pieces of plastic. One of mine was ripped at 50k miles.
- Bump stops front and rear: I replaced them because I was in there, but mine were in perfectly decent shape at 50k miles.
I'm sure there are other items people will suggest, but that's my list. You can read more in my 50k miles suspension refresh here: http://www.zhpmafia.com/forums/showt...miles-10-years
Has anyone ever seen a pulley with this kind of wear?
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...941246e055.jpg
Sent from my S8+
Yowser. What does the belt look like?
Belt looked fine. I've never seen a pulley do this. This was on Billy's ZHP (longrangekiller)Quote:
Originally Posted by ELCID86
Sent from my S8+
Thanks for the input about my question. I won't buy the suspension refresh kit for now. I will discuss with my Indy first.
Me either. Seems very odd that would/could happen (especially with no belt damage).Quote:
Originally Posted by danewilson77
Yeah, my previous car was a 1993 Porsche 968 and I never had issues with plastic failing. Sold it last year.Quote:
Originally Posted by stephenkirsh
If I had to guess, I'd ascribe all this plastic failure to reformulation to meet environmental or recyling targets. It would be interesting to learn how much this is a problem with other 12-16 year old cars now.
Sure pisses me off, but I've learned not to breathe on my car when I'm working on it.
I have lost track of the thread here concerning the PCV upgrade that is now under development: the device that goes where the oil filter is and helps avoid "peanut butter" caused by condensation. Some prototypes have been shipped to useres here and elsewhere. Can someone please let me know where the discussion is? Thanks in advance....
It's the German Auto Solutions one.
G.A.S. CCV Replacement is in early release!
https://r.tapatalk.com/shareLink?sha...2&share_type=t
Thanks!!
For coupe owners: if you replaced your side markers due to fading or damage, what did you replace it with, Genuine BMW? Or a cheaper option, like ULO (that is on sale right now: https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/bmw...-63136920731)?
Part numbers are as follows:
left - 63136920731
right - 63136920732
ULO is the manufacturer of most of the lights of this vintage. If you buy from FCP and if they will replace them for no charge when they begin to dull/yellow I'd go with the BMW ones. I haven't changed mine yet, but the BMW ones are just a few dollars more.Quote:
Originally Posted by BMWCurves
BMW Part Number 63136920731/732
Part Name FLASHER
MSRP $36.97
Online Price from dealers with internet sales ~$29.58 (getbmwparts.com)
They will. They'll replace any part for any reason. Because of this, I'm not sure it's really worth paying a few bucks more for what is essentially the same part, but at least the price difference is small enough where you have choice. :thumbsupQuote:
Originally Posted by John in VA
“Hey it’s been 100k miles since I replaced the cooling system on my car and even though nothing failed, I’d like to replace all of them cause it will fail pretty soon”Quote:
Originally Posted by az3579
So this is a valid reason too? I mean the part doesn’t have to fail?
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William, I got pretty good results using a headlight resto kit on my sidemarkers. I’ll probably end up replacing them with smoked ones just so I don’t have to deal with yellowing, but it’s still a toss up.
Correct. That was the exact question I asked them when I was there to pick up parts one day. They said yes.Quote:
Originally Posted by san
Awesome!Quote:
Originally Posted by az3579
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How much was the kit? I recently replaced my ECS tuning knock off clear sidemarkers with OEM BMW ones and it was night and day. Knock offs served their purpose, but they were really fading, yellowed and the gasket was completely gone just leaving behind the plastic.Quote:
Originally Posted by 704sw
i just replace with OE. It takes like 3-4 years to yellow on my car so whatever. And they are a lot cheaper than how much they used to be.
Oof, I’m not sure. Maybe $30? I bought it from Costco several years ago to improve my mom’s Lexus headlights. Of course they were replaced as part of a recall a year later. My kit is made by Meguiar’s.Quote:
Originally Posted by Newjack
Thanks for the info and opinions, gentleman! My side markers are yellow, but the gaskets are cracking as well so I figured it was time to replace them wholesale instead of trying to restore them. I'll probably go BMW.
Can anyone confirm that shifter boot part # 25117919219 already comes with a plastic frame? Thanks.