Those are the ones. Yea they definitely need some help. I was considering taking it on as a project but if there's a 100% chance they won't fit I'll just walk away from it.Quote:
Originally Posted by 704sw
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Those are the ones. Yea they definitely need some help. I was considering taking it on as a project but if there's a 100% chance they won't fit I'll just walk away from it.Quote:
Originally Posted by 704sw
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Someone else here is more of an expert, no doubt, but for $110 I’m sure you could easily reclaim your money if either (a) they don’t fit, or (b) the outcome isn’t what you’d hoped.Quote:
Originally Posted by joeybananaz18
Have you thought about buying a grey M3 seat to go along with the cinnamon cover? Those things go dirt cheap because it’s such an undesirable color.
Honestly no that never dawned on me. I've already spoken with someone locally (well, one state over) who can make me front and rear seat covers for 2k with real cinnamon leather. Pricey but I won't have to worry about fitment and leathers not matching.Quote:
Originally Posted by 704sw
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Lol I’ve been looking for coupe Cinnamon Seats for a while keep finding driving side ripped up ones.. must be some story behind that lol
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While switching back to my regular wheels/tires I had been hand threading the wheel bolts into the hub and then using my impact wrench just to screw in the bolts so they were no longer loose (but not tightening them), and then finally tightening it down with my tire wrench. On the last bolt of the last wheel, I used my impact wrench as I had been before, but I think I had not finger tightened the bolt far enough and the bolt skipped a thread and tightened at an angle. Now I cannot get it the bolt to thread properly. What's the prognosis? I tried different bolts with no improvement.
Sounds like you mucked up the threads in the hub. Gonna have to run a tap into that bad boy. Been there before.Quote:
Originally Posted by BMWCurves
Does anyone know what the thread specs are for the hub?Quote:
Originally Posted by ZHPizza
M12x1.5.Quote:
Originally Posted by BMWCurves
Gracias to you and NateQuote:
Originally Posted by slater
So my indy noticed one of the "body plugs" on the underside of the car was missing. Sure enough when he showed me, there is a clean punched out hole with fabric laying over i, which the indy states was the interior carpet. Naturally, it was wet and only a matter of time before mold becomes an issue. Is there a specific PN for the plug that is missing or do I have to try and figure something out?
Thanks
Uhh pick one?Quote:
Originally Posted by JPMo
http://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/show...diagId=51_3286
For all your plug and cap needs:Quote:
Originally Posted by JPMo
http://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/show...diagId=51_3286
How large is the hole? You can buy rubber automotive plugs over an inch in diameter at Lowe’s/Home Depot. As for the moisture, I’d suggest putting a box fan in the car overnight facing the damp carpet if that’s an option.Quote:
Originally Posted by JPMo
Quote:
Originally Posted by Karl Lazlo
Thanks, I'll have to figure out exactly where it is again.Quote:
Originally Posted by ZHPizza
Its maybe just a few cm across. Large enough to fit a couple fingers and feel the carpet. Honestly I haven't noticed any moist carpet from the interior so I'll just have to investigate further.Quote:
Originally Posted by 704sw
Thanks everyone
And/or use an ozone generator to kill any mold.
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How do you guys clean out your fluid extractors?
I have several of the green, 5 gallon water containers. As they get full, I take the oil to be recycled to Walmart.Quote:
Originally Posted by stephenkirsh
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https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...1ad4c05659.jpg
No, not disposing of the fluid, but cleaning the extractor itself.
Example, I extract PS fluid one day and the next I want to use it to put oil in the diff. I don't want any PS residue mixed in with the diff oil.
What's the best way to clean it?
Not sure, but I would think it would involve flushing a quart (some appreciable amount) of the new oil through the lines.Quote:
Originally Posted by stephenkirsh
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so i'm looking to replace both the main accessory and A/C tensioners as well as idler pulley. my question is what is the right part number for the A/C tensioner? do our ZHPs have 4 or 5 rib belts? any help would be appreciated!
edit: NVM, i think i found it. it's part 11287512758
next question: has anyone replaced the A/C tensioner and belt without lifting the car? i watched a YT DIY video and he has the car jacked up, but i am wanting to know if i can complete the job entirely from the top side. thanks!
I did it on my sister's 330Xi without lifting it.
I'm trying to identify a noise, and any help would be appreciated. 2005 330Ci coupe. I only hear it when the car is just beginning to accelerate, and it disappears after the car has warmed up a bit. It sounds to me like it is coming from behind the center of the dash. If any of you are old enough to remember what the old speedometer cables sounded like, that's the sound. It seems to be related to throttle or vacuum. I can give the car light throttle, and I hear a swishing noise like two metal disks lightly rubbing swish......swish......swish......swish......swish and then if I let off the accelerator, it can actually speed up swish..swish..swish..swish, and after a couple of seconds, it's gone and not heard from again. I also noticed that if I banked the car hard into a turn, I could sometimes induce a little swish..swish..swish, and then it would go away.
I had a few ideas -- CD in radio. Nope. Replaced the NAV unit, still there. Final stage resistor? Fan still seems to blow fine, but I do have one ready to go in.
Automatic climate control module fan? Bad passenger side front wheel bearing?
What do you guys think?
Salty
My first thought was the heater fan as they are notorious for making noise but that's more of a chirping noise at low fan speed and would not change with throttle input. Final stage resistor would either kill the fan or make it run erratic.
If anyone comes across a good deal on a battery that will fit our car, please let me know [emoji1]. I wanna try and purchase one on sale before I urgently need one (and therefore not having the time to wait for a deal) thanks!
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For anyone that has removed their alternator to swap alternator pulleys, did you bother removing the power connection on the rear?
The positive connector? Yeah. I took the whole thing out of the car so I could shove a screwdriver in it to hold the vanes in place.Quote:
Originally Posted by BMWCurves
I'm kind of a redneck tho.
Can anyone point me to our Monroney sticker thread?
Asking for a friend.
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Top side is fine. The tensioner for the A/C is easier to get to underneath, but it isn't hard from the top.Quote:
Originally Posted by webster
Some guys have reported success with this one https://www.walmart.com/ip/EverStart...ze-H8/16782659.Quote:
Originally Posted by tomnobes
There's also this one:Quote:
Originally Posted by Sreten
http://www.zhpmafia.com/forums/showt...window-sticker
Does anyone know the size or part number of the O-ring that goes in the upper radiator hose to the expansion tank? I lost mine and I don't want to buy an entire new hose just for a 10 cent part. It's a little O-ring, less than an inch in diameter.
https://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=906997Quote:
Originally Posted by Oltorf
Didn't even know it had an o-ring... :dunno
got it, thanks. i also emailed a guy that sells sets on ebay and confirmed - 3x16 mmQuote:
Originally Posted by John in VA
what kind of leather are the seats made out of?
e46 NON M seats are Montana leatherQuote:
Originally Posted by Oltorf
e46 M seats are Nappa leather
e90 and F series are Dakota leather I believe
awesome, thanks.Quote:
Originally Posted by nextelbuddy
So I’m finally investing in a daily driver this year. Tomorrow I’m checking out this super clean 2005 Honda CRV. I think it’s going to be the one. I’ll be keeping my ZHP for joy.
I currently have my car in the garage with a genuine BMW car cover. Unfortunately I’ll have to take the car out the garage and leave it parked in the outdoors.
I was thinking of getting an outdoor car cover. But wondering if you guys think it’s worth it? And if it is, than any recommendations?
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A cover outdoors is a double-edged sword. It can provide some protection, but can also kill the finish if it's not super-snug. The car needs to be clean before using the cover or the cover will scratch. And even if snug, if water gets through the cover & moisture builds up under the cover it can cause fogging of the paint over time. A tarp over the cover can help keep any water out. Then there are the jerks that see a car with a cover & will screw with the car. You'll have to wash the cover sometime - can require a large washer/dryer.Quote:
Originally Posted by L0veZHP
I've only used a cover inside, but have friends that have used the Stormproof, Autobody Armor, Weathershield HP & Superweave - all are decent choices, but have different price points & there are different prices from different vendors = shop around!
http://www.autoanything.com/car-cove...ar-covers.aspx
https://www.coverking.com/best-indoo...330i-base.html
https://www.carcoversdirect.com/part...6971/materials
http://www.autoanything.com/car-cove...stom-car-cover
https://www.covercraft.com/us/en/pro...SAAEgLFBPD_BwE
https://www.calcarcover.com/product/...-car-cover/555