Haven't really noticed much of that.
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Haven't really noticed much of that.
Yep. The grippier the tire, the worse the problem seems.Quote:
Originally Posted by 704sw
You should see the amount of crap stuck to the RE71R's compared to the PSS!
Figured as such, thanks. The closest thing I’ve had to grippy tires before this was 205 width Sport Comp 2 which didn’t bring in much grit.
Does anyone know if these turner motorsport FCAB bushings are any good?
I'm being hit with a lot of science and I don't know enough to dispute their claims.
Nice. They finally made some for the Non-M vehicles.Quote:
Originally Posted by Newjack
So are these reputable? Pros? Cons?Quote:
Originally Posted by Vas
It is a fairly new product so not alot of reviews yet.Quote:
Originally Posted by Newjack
A monoball bushing is a good upgrade though from a performance stand-point.
My only gripe with some of these bushings is the required maintenance. Even though a rubber bushing might not provide the best result, it is maintenance free. I personally like the solid rubber upgrade with the Z4M fcab. Cost effective upgrade and longer lifespan then fluid filled.
I'm running the Z4M FCABs and I like them very much. I also realized those monoball bushings are $300 with the lolipops on them. Thaaats a bit too much for meQuote:
Originally Posted by Vas
The cost is up there for them.Quote:
Originally Posted by Newjack
Think I paid $50 for both z4m bushings and installed them into existing brackets.
The first thing I think of when I read the description is "harshness". Do you care about this at all? If so, I'd stick with rubber bushings.Quote:
Originally Posted by Newjack
Yeah, but they say in the video that they put them on all of their street cars too:Quote:
Originally Posted by az3579
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=liJ3t2xDwjY
That and @slater sings the praises of their spherical RTABs and his car rides great.
yeah - and that video they made is pretty nice, they actually did a good job explaining the different types of bushings.Quote:
Originally Posted by Vas
i have to disagree on the rubber bit in regard to the stock bushing; they need to replaced often because they die so quickly.Quote:
Originally Posted by Vas
the Z4M bushing, on the other hand, should last much longer.
my only gripe with the Z4M is that is moves the wheel further forward in the wheel well - performance-wise, this is all good stuff. but it just looks a bit funny to me.
that's a great cost/performance upgrade.Quote:
Originally Posted by Vas
i disagree as not all aftermarket options are the same. a poly bushing with poor tolerances - or no lube - will be awful. but i don't find my AKG poly units harsh by any means; if you have harshness with those, you have issues elsewhere in the suspension.Quote:
Originally Posted by az3579
thanks man!Quote:
Originally Posted by ZHPizza
i don't use their RTABs, i run bimmerworld units. the TMS spherical RTABs are non-sealed, race-only bearings.
so im just now seeing/discovering that my ECU Ebox fan hasnt been working. i didnt even know we had one of those things until now. My S54 DME has always shown a shadow code for EBOX fan.
i popped open my DME box and found my ebox fan plug. the plug that goes down to the actual fan is 3 wire but all my searching has found that the 3 wire ebox fans were from automatic cars.
im curious if there is anyone in here that has the ability to see what connector their ebox fan looks like? if they have a 2 wire connector or 3 wire?
the reason im confused is that my S54 engine harness has its own ebox fan plug connector with a 3 prong connector but only 2 wires in the outer pins. then my stock M54 ebox connector is stil present albeit tucked down away since it was unused and it too has a 3 wire connector but only 2 pins but those pins are in the middle and outer slots.
i need to find the pinout for the ebox fan so i can see which wire is ground, signal and power so i can test it myself.
Check realoem and see if there is a separate diagram for that motor for manual vs auto trans? :dunnoQuote:
Originally Posted by nextelbuddy
I had no idea there was a fan in there until this post
Same here. Looks like there are several versions too:Quote:
Originally Posted by Newjack
http://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/show...diagId=12_0899
yes i know there is 2 different motors on the m3/S54 cars.. SMG cars got 3 wire and manual cars got 2 wireQuote:
Originally Posted by Newjack
but on my ZHP i have a 3 wire DME fan as well and i did not change the fan in my car when we did the swap which means my car came with a 3 wire DME fan.
i was curious if other ZHP owners also had a 3 wire DME fan. Realoem will show both types for the cars and in some cases its wrong as well
Can you post a pic of where the connector is?
It's a two wire connector on my 2005 330Ci auto. Hope that helps.Quote:
Originally Posted by nextelbuddy
Attachment 32033
And in this first photo, that's the other side of the connector that clips to the side of the DME enclosure.
https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/bmw...46-12907571019
Salty
BumpQuote:
Originally Posted by stephenkirsh
thanks for taking the time to do that. it just gives me more mysteries now lol. your car is an automatic and has a 2 wire plug grr lol.Quote:
Originally Posted by SaltyNC
Glad to do it for ya. I should mention the fan does have three wires going to the connector, but the plug on the fan only has two connectors.Quote:
Originally Posted by nextelbuddy
Look at the first picture here, and then look at the third picture. Three wires in, two plugs out.
https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/bmw...46-12907571019
Salty
Wow good spotQuote:
Originally Posted by SaltyNC
On computers, the third wire is for RPM monitoring. I wonder if it's same on that fan... Maybe it has to do more with year than model of car... the MS45 has much more monitoring capabilities than its predecessors...
Can I drive the car with a broken Driver's side front sway bar link?
You can take off the sway bar completely and still drive around safely. Your handling will be shitty...but you can drive around no problems.Quote:
Originally Posted by Yankeefan
So here's what happened. 2 weekends ago I replaced the front shocks with Koni FSDs and BMW reinforcement plates. Since then the front of the car has been riding higher than it used to. I though it would settle out after a few days but it hasn't, so my fear was that maybe the strut wasn't seated all the way down into the sleeve thing at the bottom. So today I lifted the passenger side of the car, took the wheel off, and everything looked fine. Then I lowered it and raised the driver's side, and everything looked fine except I realized that I had forgotten to reinstall the small bracket that holds the ABS line onto the lower strut bolt. Stupid. So I decided I was going to take the lower strut bolt off, put the bracket on and tighten her back up. As I was about half-way done loosening the bolt, the sway bar link snapped. I noticed after a minute of 2 that the strut had spun abut 90 degrees, so that the tab where the sway bar link attaches was facing out. I'm guessing this is the problem? However I know I didn't install the strut that way, so it must have somehow rotated in the last 2 weeks, or perhaps as I was loosening the lower strut bolt.
So the car is now back on the ground with no driver's side sway bar link. My questions are: Any idea how I did this, or how I can avoid doing this in the future? Did I do something incredibly stupid? Also, can I drive the car right now, and how much of a pain will it be to replace this link?
Thanks!
Attachment 32049Attachment 32050Attachment 32051Attachment 32052
Seems to me that maybe the strut wasn't inserted into the king pin all of the way and tightened, then somehow "jumped" out of its seat, and rotated :confused. My KW's have a pin on the coilover body the must be inserted into the slot in the kingpin seat.
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Konis don't have that pin... at least the yellows don't. You have guess the orientation to the king pin
Hmmm, I coulda swore mine did...Quote:
Originally Posted by Sockethead
The bilstein have two.
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@Yankeefan there is definitely a locator pin on the FSD's that is supposed to seat down into the carrier. Not getting that down in there would explain both your increased ride height and the sway bar connection being off. I'll snag a pic of mine in the morning.
I feel like I've seen this asked somewhere else before but can't recall what the answer was.
Are front control arms considered a wear and tear part?
I need to invest in new front shocks so I'm looking into what else needs to be done. I don't think my PO replaced the FCAB so i was going to add them to the list but didn't know where ZHP gurus stood on the control arms themselves.
They do go bad. I think it was BP who said he had to replace his control arms cause the ball joint came undone (It could’ve been someone else). On the other hand Rob (sockethead) said his looked fine when he replaced them at 150k ish miles...Quote:
Originally Posted by joeybananaz18
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thanks for that. always wondered if i should just got a refresh kit from ecs or fcp or get everything piece by piece.
Refresh kit is the way to go. Lemförder is the OEM for factory replacements.Quote:
Originally Posted by joeybananaz18
Here's a basic kit:
https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/bmw...zhp4piecekit-l
Here's the baller kit:
https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/bmw-8-piece-control-arm-kit-e46-zhp8piecekit-l
I highly advise staying away from Meyle control arms and bushings. I've replaced my control arms AND FCABs with Meyle and every single one of those had to be replaced within 30k miles (the next year).
Didn't get a shot of the pin but it slides down in between the two halves of the lower mount there where the bolt goes throughhttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...51b1c3ad4a.jpgQuote:
Originally Posted by ZHPizza
Good call; I missed that. I'll fix that problem. I also ordered 2 new Lemforder sway bar links last night. The car is driving fine right now around town. Thanks a lot for the help!Quote:
Originally Posted by ZHPizza
I've been getting a knocking noise usually somewhere in the middle of turning left, but it's not exactly consistent. It's more of single occurrence rather than a continuing noise. I thought it was the swaybar end-link loosening up, but I checked and it seems solid. Unless I checked the wrong side. The noise was somewhat similar. Any ideas?
As always BP, you’re a wealth of knowledge. Might go baller. Not because I know I definitely need to, but simply because I don’t recall my P.O. doing much on the front end. I’m taking a “while I’m at it” position in an attempt to recreate that brand new zhp feel.Quote:
Originally Posted by az3579
Just need to check what kind of struts I have up front, koni or bilstein, as those need replacing too.
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I had a similar issue when I got the car but went away after I replaced the sway bar end links. Are the tie rods old?Quote:
Originally Posted by holyc0w
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Tie rods are new. I drove a few miles today and it didn't happen again. I'm sure it will be back tomorrow.Quote:
Originally Posted by san