What did you do for your ZHP/ BMW / MINI today? #2

Replaced CSB and guibo. Separating and reconnecting the driveshaft is a PITA with a regular combo wrench! Would have helped a lot to have an 18mm ratcheting box wrench. This is the first time I've replaced something twice on the ZHP, other than oil, filters, and foglight trim rings. Guibo was replaced ~30,000 miles ago, but it was bolted up wrong so maybe that's why it failed early.

The driveshaft was not exactly as I'd expected. Based on the Pelican DIY I thought the u-join would be behind the CSB and the clamp holding the two parts together would look like this:
http://www.pelicanparts.com/BMW/tech...Guibo/pic1.jpg
http://www.pelicanparts.com/BMW/tech...Guibo/pic5.jpg

But no, on my car the U-join was in front of the CSB and instead of an external clamp calling for a pipe wrench there was an 18mm bolt head hiding inside the universal joint. Maybe it's something specific to the 6-speed. Or maybe in the past somebody put my driveshaft together backwards! After all, shouldn't the U-joint be after the CSB to allow for rear suspension movement? On the other hand, assuming rear subframe bushings and diff bushings are in good shape, the rear won't move around much relative to the CSB, while the transmission and motor might move around under hard cornering with stock mounts. So maybe the U-joint should be in front of the CSB. Or I'm looking at the DIY photos backwards....

This guy's E46 DIY video shows the U-join in front of the CSB, like mine. Maybe I took mine apart the wrong way? .
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=l6wlJplxMdg

Edit2: Ah I see now this E46 Fanatics thread explains that the 5-speed driveshafts have the locking collar as shown in that guy's YouTube video, but the 6-speed driveshafts have the bolt inside the U-joint. Thread: http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=892866
Photo that looks like my driveshaft (and yes my CSB was completely separated like in that photo:
http://www.osoknrid.com/pics/IMG_0244_resize.JPG
Also my CSB was not held in by a circlip. Wondering if some previous mechanic forgot to replace it or the ZHP driveshaft simply doesn't need one.

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Originally Posted by Sockethead

Looks good Ry!

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Originally Posted by GMATT

Tips are "hot"!

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Originally Posted by Mtnman

I like! Looks exactly like the tips on the 135. Which i like a lot.

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Originally Posted by johnrando

@Ryan, huge difference. They look great. I'm glad you got them to fit. I'm so jealous, I really want gloss black tips.
@William, looks awesome! I'm going to order immediately. Where did you get them from again? BTW, thanks for being the guinea pig on those.

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Originally Posted by Hermes

Looks great Ryan!

Just so you know, road crap gets stuck between them so make sure to take a rag and pull the rocks out every once in a while. Also, penetrating oil is the greatest cleaner for those things I've found because of the material they are made from doesn't really like other cleaners/detailing products.

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Originally Posted by JupiterBMW

Great to see all the updates!

William- the finished shift/e-brake boots look outstanding!

Ry- Love the black tips, and DAYUM, that car has some gloss!!

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Originally Posted by UdubBadger

Nice work Ry


- Goin' H.A.M. Mobile

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Thanks everyone!

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Originally Posted by Ryans323i

I finally fixed my leaky PS. The culprit was a dumb hose clamp holding the hose from the reservoir to the pump. Unfortunately, it's been leaking for so long, the underneath of my car is n-a-s-t-y!

I also received the black crome tail pipe tips from John. They didn't fit, but with a little modification we got them installed.

http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/03/24/ne4ezura.jpg

http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/03/24/asedy4a3.jpg

http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/03/24/tybe8a2e.jpg


Sent from my walkie talkie.

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Ry...don't know how I missed this but man those tips look incredible on Lucy!!! Absolute perfection!
:chuck

Sent from my DROID RAZR HD using Tapatalk 2

Totally adding this to my list for the time being till I eventually get the corsa as well :)

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Originally Posted by LivesNearCostco

Replaced CSB and guibo. Separating and reconnecting the driveshaft is a PITA with a regular combo wrench! Would have helped a lot to have an 18mm ratcheting box wrench. This is the first time I've replaced something twice on the ZHP, other than oil, filters, and foglight trim rings. Guibo was replaced ~30,000 miles ago, but it was bolted up wrong so maybe that's why it failed early.

The driveshaft was not exactly as I'd expected. Based on the Pelican DIY I thought the u-join would be behind the CSB and the clamp holding the two parts together would look like this:
http://www.pelicanparts.com/BMW/tech...Guibo/pic1.jpg
http://www.pelicanparts.com/BMW/tech...Guibo/pic5.jpg

But no, on my car the U-join was in front of the CSB and instead of an external clamp calling for a pipe wrench there was an 18mm bolt head hiding inside the universal joint. Maybe it's something specific to the 6-speed. Or maybe in the past somebody put my driveshaft together backwards! After all, shouldn't the U-joint be after the CSB to allow for rear suspension movement? On the other hand, assuming rear subframe bushings and diff bushings are in good shape, the rear won't move around much relative to the CSB, while the transmission and motor might move around under hard cornering with stock mounts. So maybe the U-joint should be in front of the CSB. Or I'm looking at the DIY photos backwards....

This guy's E46 DIY video shows the U-join in front of the CSB, like mine. Maybe I took mine apart the wrong way? .
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=l6wlJplxMdg

Edit2: Ah I see now this E46 Fanatics thread explains that the 5-speed driveshafts have the locking collar as shown in that guy's YouTube video, but the 6-speed driveshafts have the bolt inside the U-joint. Thread: http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=892866
Photo that looks like my driveshaft (and yes my CSB was completely separated like in that photo:
http://www.osoknrid.com/pics/IMG_0244_resize.JPG
Also my CSB was not held in by a circlip. Wondering if some previous mechanic forgot to replace it or the ZHP driveshaft simply doesn't need one.

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Excellent work.

Sold my son's '02 330Ci (non ZHP). He's hoping to find a 330i or maybe a 3rd Gen Acura TL.

I check tire pressures religiously and today confirmed that I have a slow leak in the right-rear tire. It's losing about 2-3 psi on 60 mile trips and ~10 psi over a few weeks. I visually inspected the tire and I didn't notice anything. Guess it's to the shop for a patch repair...

If you have 18" 135s, check inner rim for a small crack. Can put soapy water in a spray bottle and spray it on the tire and inner lip, look for bubbles. That's how we found a crack leaking air from one of my rear OEM wheels. Recently saw crack on inner lip of a front OEM wheel, but tire holds presure okay. Today I had Costco dismount the tire. Gonna try drilling a hole at the end of the crack and sealing it with epoxy. If that doesn't work, will get it welded like I did with the crack in the rear wheel.

Not mine - but I helped..(did a great portion of - my choice) swapping out the driveshaft/and complete rear/diff from ZHP coupe to the complete M3 setup (actually from an Z4 M coupe)

Everything went great

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Originally Posted by BavarianZHP

I check tire pressures religiously and today confirmed that I have a slow leak in the right-rear tire. It's losing about 2-3 psi on 60 mile trips and ~10 psi over a few weeks. I visually inspected the tire and I didn't notice anything. Guess it's to the shop for a patch repair...

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If you don't find any cracks in the rim, or debris in the tire, then I'd guess Shrader (sp) valve. The valve has an o-ring on it that gets old, brittle and shrinks.