Should be improved with lighter wheels/tires. Lets the suspension work with less momentum from the weight.Quote:
Originally Posted by Sheepdog84
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Should be improved with lighter wheels/tires. Lets the suspension work with less momentum from the weight.Quote:
Originally Posted by Sheepdog84
Pretty much what pizza said. Lighter wheels are easier to keep planted, and I also went with 17's which are a slightly softer ride overall.Quote:
Originally Posted by Sheepdog84
I wouldn't ever go back to stock ZHP wheels.
If you're on stock suspension with anything above 50k miles, a suspension refresh will help a lot with that "crashiness" feeling. I noticed it in my worn shocks, especially on low speed bumps that should not cause the suspension that much trouble. Definitely improved with a suspension refresh. Here's what I did to get an "OEM+" feeling in my suspension:Quote:
Originally Posted by Sheepdog84
http://www.zhpmafia.com/forums/showt...miles-10-years
Also, I switched to 17" APEXes. I had the dual benefit of reducing unsprung weight from the wheel which should improve ride comfort some regardless, and then I also effectively increased the sidewall of the tire, which should provide some sort of ride comfort improvement as well.
damn guys, I'm getting really frustrated in my research. I finally told E46F about my 6-speed swap and am slowly getting parts together when I can. What fluid should I put in it? I hear D4 ATF, Redline MTL, and Pentosin MTF-2. I somehow ordered MT90 back when I was first getting parts. I live in a warm climate, around SF, so cold weather is low concern. Any help would be appreciated!
Redline D4 ATF my dudeQuote:
Originally Posted by YoitsTmac
Recommend by Redline and most everyone here
Thanks! Guess I'll use the MT90 as fire starter or something :P
Still getting some midrange throttle surge after the Vanos seals were replaced. What’s the next thing to check? ICV? O2s?
Are you sure you're not feeling the transition of the DISA valve opening? I firmly believe this is what's causing it. There is going to be a disruption of flow through the manifold for a split second as the DISA opens and the manifold volume changes... This is why it goes away when folks disconnect the DISA from the system...
My dyno run before the supercharger clearly shows the transition and it's gone in the subsequent runs after the supercharger install which replaces the stock manifold/DISA setup... granted, there is a tune involved but after research by Ryan and other tuners, they are hardly changing anything in the DME
I suppose it could be? It’s happening where I carry a gear through a corner and try getting on the throttle as I’m tracking out. Seems to really only affect 3rd and 4th.
How was the track day btw?Quote:
Originally Posted by 704sw
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1st and 2nd tend to too short to make it that noticeable. 3rd and 4th can make the car feel like it's dragging in that range.Quote:
Originally Posted by san
I'd say that's expected for some of our cars. For some reason it only happens on some and not all. My DISA transition is super obvious and annoying.
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We’re on Day 2, and it’s been incredibly enjoyable. My instructor drives a ZHP, so that’s been great to have someone who knows these cars in your ear the whole time. I still have 3 sessions left.Quote:
Originally Posted by san
Any chance rebuilding the DISA will help resolve that?Quote:
Originally Posted by az3579
I already did that myself and the benefit was super short lived. The dip came right back again. I've just learned to live with it.Quote:
Originally Posted by 704sw
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Do you have your DSC turned off? You should have that and traction control off on the track
Any suggestions on how to prevent swirls/scratches from a magnetic car topper? Cracked my ball joint on my truck driving back from Florida and I’m going to fix it this weekend, so unfortunately I’ll be driving pizzas in the ZHP all this week. The car topper has 4 magnetic discs on the corners, would a paper towel work? Need it to still be magnetized properly.
Also not excited about the pizza smell, I’ll be spraying her down with ozium after every shift lol
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Yes paper towels would probably work as long as they don't rip. I was thinking felt paper
Oh felt paper is a good call, probably would be less susceptible to tearing over the paper towels tooQuote:
Originally Posted by Sockethead
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Cut up a microfiber towel?
I just used painters tape when I had one. Like 3 layers thick lol I wasn't delivering pizza though so I'm not how strong those are. The top layer starts to wear down after awhile, but then I would just add another layer. Then take it off at the end of the week and start over.Quote:
Originally Posted by Prestovie
That's a great idea. Or, perhaps try PlastiDip in those spots where the magnets touch. They are usually very strong magnets so they should grip through the PD layer. Then just peel off when done. Spray it super thick with many coats so it is more durable.Quote:
Originally Posted by sillieidiot
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weird that my car doesn't have that dip...Quote:
Originally Posted by az3579
Nate has me thinking my issue might be a little more expensive than the DISA [emoji24]Quote:
Originally Posted by slater
Possibly clutch slip? I’ve had a rattle right as I’m starting to accelerate in first, which I misdiagnosed as the resonated x-pipe rubbing the exhaust bracket. Maybe the rubber between layers of the DMF flywheel are gone? I’m not sure, but I did notice a faint smell in the garage last night when I got home, which I believe is a symptom of a dying clutch.
based on the videos nate sent me, and the noises, i think it's your DMF. there are three rubber damping blocks in the DMF that are known to wear out, especially on blue cars. heck, they even were pretty worn on my red car. i would definitely get the valeo SMF kit - very happy with mine.Quote:
Originally Posted by 704sw
Frig! So my instructor was telling me to do the clutch master cylinder and line “while I’m in there.” Thoughts? And do I need anything else aside from the Valeo kit+metal pivot pin? I’m obviously doing a rear main seal kit since it’s drippy-drippy.Quote:
Originally Posted by slater
Also my starter occasionally acts up, and I know it’s a hell of a lot easier to access with the tranny removed. Any chance the slipping clutch is related to the failure to start? If not, time for a Bosch from FCP. Goodbye money!
There is no need to do your clutch master cylinder and line... Those very rarely fail. I haven't heard of any failures of those items personally.
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ha. it's only money.Quote:
Originally Posted by 704sw
the valeo kit has everything you need - t/o bearing, pilot bearing (already installed in the SMF), bolts, etc... the metal pin is a nice thing to do with you're in there.
as for the clutch MC - i wouldn't bother, it's easy to do afterwards.
rear main seal - absolutely. don't bother getting the entire seal/bracket, just get the seal - it will come with the install tool, and it's cake to install.
if the DMF is wearing out, in my mind that could cause startup issues... the 'mass' that the starter engages would rotate quite a bit before the 'mass' bolted to the crank starts turning. in this regard, i think DMFs are so dumb.
Sigh...Quote:
Originally Posted by slater
Do I need to replace the fork?Quote:
Originally Posted by slater
Okay cool, thanks!Quote:
Originally Posted by slater
Do the bolts need to be replaced too? I know some are single use. And any merit to doing the front driveshaft seal while I’m there? Sorry for all the stupid questions, I’m a rookie here [emoji17]Quote:
Originally Posted by slater
The sound is like a small motor trying to turn over, but not doing so successfully. It doesn’t sound anything like when the X3’s starter went kaput.Quote:
Originally Posted by slater
nope! just clean and lube.Quote:
Originally Posted by 704sw
no worries, it will all make sense when you're in there. :)Quote:
Originally Posted by 704sw
all bolts that need to be replaced will come with the kit - so no need to source anything there.
can you try to record a sound clip of it?Quote:
Originally Posted by 704sw
It’s inconsistent (maybe once a week, but I expect it to be more frequent now lol), but I’ll just record each time I start up until I capture it.Quote:
Originally Posted by slater
I want to keep saying “dammit Peter sold me a lemon!” but that’s just life with an aging German car [emoji849]. At least I’m learning a hell of a lot!
Check out the project thread for sketchi. I have everything listed that I bought to replace the clutch and flywheel and rebuild the shifter assembly.Quote:
Originally Posted by 704sw
Now the weather is warm, I will be tacking this job.
haha... yep, it's a lemon!! :)Quote:
Originally Posted by 704sw
i mean... it's not a honda. :) but it also is not engineered like one. and at the age these cars are at, a lot of these type of issues definitely depend on how the POs drove and treated it. and while it can be painful overcoming issues as they come up, at least you're sorting it and know what the story is going forward.
my ZHP/T has 233K KMs on it now, is 13 years old, and while the Touring part was a 1-owner car before i got it, i've had the drivetrain for over 4 years now, and have replaced a TON of stuff... but i'm confident it will hold up for the long haul, mechanically... i do have a window regulator to change, but that's aging car stuff. :)
You’re in VA, right? Any chance you want to team up and try knocking out 2 in 1 weekend?Quote:
Originally Posted by Vas
Yup. Just up I-77 and then I-81 North. Roughly 4 hour trip.Quote:
Originally Posted by 704sw
I do not have a lift so my plan is jackstands and brute force. Done clutch jobs before on fwd vehicles but this is a first on a rwd bmw.
always a good tactic. ;)Quote:
Originally Posted by Vas
having done this recently, the pain is still in my memory. :) really, it wasn't terrible - the hardest part is the uppermost passenger side bolt - you just can't see it, and you need the trickest wobble sockets/extension/u-joints available to get access. or tiny hands. i probably spent as much - or more - time getting that single bolt out/in than i did removing the rest of the bolts, and the trans itself.
the R&R of the clutch/PP/flywheel and doing the RMS is easy.
I wonder what the clutch replacement is going to be like with the supercharger & manifold in the way on the drivers side... I'm going to be really sad if I have to pull that 70lb bitch off... :(
you should be able to reach the starter bolts from underneath... but it won't be as easy. definitely easier to remove them than to reinstall them. ;)Quote:
Originally Posted by Sockethead
How do you lower the tranny without...like...dying? Floor jack and prayers?
Have the governator bench press itQuote:
Originally Posted by ZHPizza
Peterman told me he used a transmission jack from HF. Problem is HF has like 5 different ones.Quote:
Originally Posted by ZHPizza
Hey Peterman! If you get a break from doing the drywall at the new McDonalds would you mind sharing which one?
Bench press it. Been practicing on the rear diffQuote:
Originally Posted by ZHPizza