Yep, exactly.. I’m thinking about cutting two hockey pucks and threading longer studs into each end. Just not sure the pucks are tall enough.Quote:
Originally Posted by Sockethead
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Yep, exactly.. I’m thinking about cutting two hockey pucks and threading longer studs into each end. Just not sure the pucks are tall enough.Quote:
Originally Posted by Sockethead
Now you're thinking like a Canadian. That car is slowly converting you.Quote:
Originally Posted by 704sw
Thanks Rob. In looking back at my records and project tread, I don't see where I have done the filter in the last several years--too many cars... #facepalm. I guess I will start there.Quote:
Originally Posted by Newjack
Also pump was done 08-30-2014.
Let me know if you need help. This was something not enjoyable to do, and Justin might want some of that 93 octaneSent from my Nexus 5X using TapatalkQuote:
Originally Posted by ELCID86
I wonder if that rubber will be too solid, transferring NVH to the body...Quote:
Originally Posted by 704sw
Do you still have the exhaust bracket that bolts to the trans on there? i had to drill new holes in that bracket to get it to sit right...
I may take my car back to the place that welded on the X-pipe resonator and see what they can do...
You're saying that the tie rods might lead to a steering wheel that is normal in some parts of its rotation, but unusually heavy in other sections of its rotation?
Interesting, that's not something I thought to consider. Is there any easy at-home test to see if tie rods need replacement?
Nope that bracket is long gone. The NVH cant be any worse than the metal on metal vibrations.Quote:
Originally Posted by Sockethead
LOL!! nice one, BP... i was going to mention that too! :)Quote:
Originally Posted by az3579
You might want to put that bracket back on if you have it. It helps stabilize the exhaust when the engine/transmission move on their mounts. Some claim that it helps with NVH too. I put it back on because I have headers and wanted as much support for them as possible.Quote:
Originally Posted by 704sw
There are two threads on e46f about this exhaust with links to additional threads... I'll post the links when I get home tonight
I look for a that bracket every time I go to a junkyard. I’ve yet to find one intact. Maybe I just need to suck it up and buy it new.Quote:
Originally Posted by Sockethead
After looking at the condition of Dane's, that might be a good idea :)
Thanks!Quote:
Originally Posted by Newjack
:roflQuote:
Justin might want some of that 93 octane
I went by the hardware store on my way home. If my idea works I’ll let you know. This buzzing is obnoxious.Quote:
Originally Posted by Sockethead
Fuck offQuote:
Originally Posted by Newjack
Sent from my Pixel XL using Tapatalk
Anyone used ECS brand wheel spacers? I'm looking at the 10mm and wondering of there will be any issue with fit, or if I'll need the hub extenders that they sell.
https://www.ecstuning.com/b-ecs-part...pound-253ktwb/
They're good. I'm 95% sure I have a set sitting in my garage. Lemme check on that...Quote:
Originally Posted by Yankeefan
Edit: yup i got em
My ECS 12.5s fit just fine. From my observation the ECS lug bolts aren’t as rust-resistant as other brands, but it could just be the person I bought mine from wasn’t as gentle as I would’ve been.Quote:
Originally Posted by Yankeefan
I think those were probably my 12.5s. For some reason I thought your 10s were a different brand. I know your 15s were TMS.Quote:
Originally Posted by ZHPizza
Edit: I stand corrected.
i have a set of 15mm spacers that came with extended bolts. i bought a set of 10mm spacers with out bolts but i read online that I will need extended bolts for 10mm spacers.
does anyone know what length bolt I need to search for to use with 10mm spacers? or can i use my stock bolts with 10mm spacers?
35mm bolts for a 10mm spacer. I think 3mm (*maybe* 5mm, but I wouldn’t try it) is the largest you can go with the factory 26mm lug bolts.Quote:
Originally Posted by nextelbuddy
i have two sets of ECS spacers - 12.5 and 10mm. i also have a set of 10mm burger motorsports spacers. the burger ones are hands-down a better product - nicer machining, and little cutouts on the backside to allow easier removal from the hub. they also fit the front hubs much nicer than the ECS ones.Quote:
Originally Posted by Yankeefan
in general, i think ECS-branded stuff is sub-par.
The Turner spacers I had were top notch too. Well machined and anodized and had the machining for easy removal
My H&R spacers were by far the nicest spacers I’ve owned. My Macht Schnell spacers seem well-made, but it’s so hard to tell variances in tiny 3mm spacers.
Cool cool, thanks for the recommendations everyone.
Thanks dude!Quote:
Originally Posted by 704sw
Got u famQuote:
Originally Posted by nextelbuddy
Does anyone know what size e-torx the front subframe bolts are? RealOEM, the Pelican OPG DIY guide, etc. all say they’re hex, but mine are bigboye e-torx.
Installed last Saturday. Thanks homeyQuote:
Originally Posted by Sockethead
Yeah... It was trashed. The non OEM bracket and arm from FCP bolted in nicely.Quote:
Originally Posted by Sockethead
Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk
What's the torx screw in the foglights for? Adjustment?
Do you have a pic? I don’t remember a torx on the fogs.Quote:
Originally Posted by holyc0w
@704sw
This whole thing
Attachment 32880
I'm currently sitting on a rogue engineering short shifter. The UUC shifter is on sale for $275 to my door. Anyone want to convince me I'll love it $275 more over my Rogue Engineering or is the only proper upgrade an auto solutions shifter?
I've had the UUC short shifter and DSSR for close to 10 years now. No issues with it and it's still one of my favorite mods. I haven't tried the Rogue unit but I believe Rob (newjack) has one installed in his car and he's driven my car recently too. Maybe he'll chime in with his thoughts
ouch...Quote:
Originally Posted by YoitsTmac
Quote:
Originally Posted by YoitsTmac
I have the Rogue shifter and I've driven Rob's ZHP with the UUC. I honestly think the UUC is more to my liking. It's a little shorter and more notchy than the rogue unit. The rogue SSK feels very similar to stock, albeit a bit shorter throws. Don't get me wrong I love the Rogue SSK, but its like picking chocolate or vanilla ice cream. Both are good its just slight preference.Quote:
Originally Posted by Sockethead
That seals the deal for me. Thanks for your back to back opinion between the two. I will be learning stick with this shifter, so perhaps something closer to stock will be better to learn on. I am actually currently practicing on a Convertible ZHP and find the throws suicidally long. So knowing it's like OEM but shorter sounds attractive to me. I will also have all the bushings refreshed. Perhaps in a year or so I will look at an Auto solutions shifter, since people seam to say that is the cream of the crop.Quote:
Originally Posted by Newjack
You get used to the short throws after the first drive. I remember sitting in Dane's car at the Ohio meet last year. Clutched in with the car off and tested the throws and I thought I was using a yardstick (his is stock). Ironically I had no issues with the stock shifter when it was on my car.Quote:
Originally Posted by YoitsTmac
Rogue is solid feel, shorter throws and could easily pass as stock to anyone who has never driven a ZHP.
Does anyone else get vertical lines on their windows after rolling them up and down? I'm looking at getting tint but don't want to put it on there and have it get scratched. The lines are nearly impossible to get on camera and wipe off the interior glass easily.
Sent from my ONEPLUS 3 using Tapatalk
vertical lines of what exactly? scratches?Quote:
Originally Posted by BMWM3186
I'm not sure what it is, you can sort of see it here at the bottom of the window.https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...6b92fc6cbf.jpgQuote:
Originally Posted by JPMo
Sent from my ONEPLUS 3 using Tapatalk
No clue what it could be but my car doesn't have them. Maybe try putting a piece of white or black paper behind before taking a pic so the contrast is greaterQuote:
Originally Posted by BMWM3186