That sure seems like a simpler solution...you’re in med school, right? Any suggestions?
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@BMWCurves
To elaborate on this a bit, after I got my android headunit going, I compared left/right side and the Bavsound speakers were noticeably clearer/punchier than the OE HK.
Now I finally got the rest of the Bavsound set installed and hopped in the car this morning expecting a full, rich sound, and it was wonky af. Turns out there is some break in required for speakers. So right now, the speakers with 1 year of use sound awesome, and the speakers fresh out of the box sound almost as weak/muddy as the HK. That explains why I didn't notice much of a difference right after install.
That's a relief. Hsd no idea there was a breakin period.
Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk
Me neither! I was flipping the balance between the rear woofers this morning trying to figure out how I installed the new one wrong...it's just two freaking wires...but...it sounds like the muddy HK...did I even put it in? Am I losing my mind?
Then I remembered a comment that I had read in passing the other day where someone was like "the new speakers sounded pretty good out of the box and even better after break in!"
Turns out it's a very real and audible thing that can take up to 100 hours. Guess I should leave the car running on blast while I'm at work for the next week.
https://www.klipsch.com/blog/how-and...r-new-speakers
Got a little too wild the night before the 4th, so I spent my holiday chugging gatorade and working on the interior of the red car.
Started off pulling the seats and then got distracted into installing my OMP pedals that I had in my Mazda. I think I drilled 5 holes in the gas pedal before I got something to fit. Hungover me isn't so great at the whole measuring twice thing.
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Note that the clutch pedal is shorter because I had to cut the lower 1/2in off to keep it from catching the floor mat in my Mazda. Not something that I care enough about to pay for a new set for this car.
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Got distracted again with painting the faded cloth on the HK door pulls.
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fresh2deaf
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Then mocked up my new shift boots that I had been sitting on for months. Told myself that I couldn't install them until I refinished the rest of the console. You gotta set limits on the child in your head...
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I also had forgotten about the whole boot glued to the frame thing and didn't want to shred my decent condition OE boots, so I ran by the local Pull-A-Part with a knife and mercilessly gutted some leather boots on a few cars. I think I came away with an extra set of frames if anyone needs them.
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Popped her in to check the fitment...
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Then Spenser told me it was backwards...
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There we go! Stitching is nice and hidden. Who designed this?
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Next was a hot bath with my center console and a scrubby dish sponge. Looked kind of wonky afterwards, but one coat of Aerospace 303 and that ish was lookin fresh. The bare plastic is a little shinier than I prefer, but the finish is consistent and I can hit this thing with a golf club and not scratch it. Thumbs way the f up.
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Then I cleaned out a couple pounds of dog hair and installed the new (to me) alcantara seats and door panels that I went up to Cincinnasty to get a few weeks ago.
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Swapping door panels meant finally finishing my Bavsound Stage 1 speaker install, which I talked about a few posts back. And apparently the seats had sat long enough (~3 years?) that the motors had seized up, so I swapped all 8 (four per seat wtf) motors over from my old seats and we were good to go!
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Current status, with that badass ultimate sunshade in place:
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Looks amazing!
Those pedals make an unreal difference. Very happy you recommended them.
Thanks man. Got some more shots of the interior in daylight today. It's weird being this content with a section of the car when it's seemed like a never-ending project.
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All I have left to do is swap the headliner and repair the stitching on the driver's seat bolster. The fabric itself is in great shape and should remain that way if I can avoid rubbing my donk on it when I get in and out of the car.
I completely forgot I had installed them, which I guess is a good thing. Made a lot of stops during the rain storm last Friday and never noticed any slipping on the pedals.
Looks great!
I'm thinking a new shift knob to match your new looking wheel. :)
The interior is looking great with the new seats! Love how small things like the new pedals and shift boots make a big difference.
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Alcantara looks Soo much more inviting them black leather.
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You know, I was planning to go on my rant about how I don't like to replace things that I handle because it makes me focus on being gentle with them instead of slamming through the gears while I focus on driving...and then I got in the car...and looked at that shift knob...and I said.....dammit BP.
Ordered.
Agreed! The little things all added up. It now feels like the car is 3 years old instead of 13.
like this?
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wonderful looking interior man. love clean alcantara.
If i could find a set of non folding sedan alcantara interior in MINT condition with heat i would be willing to sell or trade my NB M3 sedan non folding interior up for it so i could finally switch to an alcantara steering wheel to match.
i would retrofit the extra set of M3 bolster & lumbar control system into the non M sedan seats just to do it lol
Ya boy got braces
I bought some beefy steel front/rear tower braces on eBay only to find out that the front didn't fit with my alignment pin and M56 beauty cover. I had been flirting with the easily removable ACS bars on Spenser's car and he was digging my strong af steel bits so we did a lil swaparooski.
Starting in the rear like you know we do.....
Yeah the rear kind of sucked. I had to put the car in the air and pull the wheel to get to the stupid underside nuts on the Rogue reinforcements. I don't know why people like these so much.
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Whatever. They're in. Laid the carpet back over and beat that ass with a rubber hammer. No cutting needed. All hammer.
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Then beat the bar in place with the same rubber hammer. Not an ideal fitment. Whatever.
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Then went to put in the cam bolts and they hit the carpet. Kind of annoying. Whatever.
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Got that ish in and locked down tho
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And we got ourselves a bar! Hooray bar!
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Now the front bar is an interesting design in that they cut threads into aluminum thinking they would hold up on an often removed part mmmok.
So you're like "yeah dude drill out the threads and run a through bolt with a nut on the other side problem solved"
NOT SO FAST
The top bracket covers one of the mounting holes, so you actually cannot tighten it until you have the plate secured (I didn't get a before pic so you can already see my solution here).
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That means you cannot hold a nut on the bottom with a wrench...and I'm not paying somebody to weld a nut to aluminum...let's take some inspiration from the rear bar and hit em with a cam lock bolt!
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Did some test fitments and stacked some washers to get full travel out of the cam lock then glued that nut in place on the backside. It won't see any torque, just the vertical force of the bolt locking down. Perfect.
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awww yeaaaaaaa
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Fuck me, those cam locks are a brilliant idea.
The Rogue mounts are reversible for rear strut bars...Where you get those cam locks? I never installed my rear bar because i didn't want to lose the trunk space
Yes I've had the identical bar in my garage for 9 years but I'd still like an easy way to remove the center section...
The ACS rear bar came with those (they thread into the steel mount), but these are the ones that I used for the front. A little narrow at M6, but I was having trouble tracking down an M8 size and they'll be fine for the application.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B019OMU2MA/
Nice! thanks
Sweet!
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Man I am so overdue for an update here...
Let's take it back to August when I got going on the poor man's spherical RTAB project.
There's more pics and info in that thread, but man, what a headache. I had so much trouble getting them to press in straight and replaced the lower control arm bushing with a bearing at the same time. The results: the rear end hits LOUD over 40% of bumps in the road, but feels amazing. I still have better fitting tires waiting to go on until I can decide if the noise is acceptable. On the current stretched/hard sidewalled tires, it is not, but the car crashed hard with those tires and OE rubber bushings. Just not loudly.
I was also chasing a creak in the rear, so I replaced the spring pads. No dice. Pretty sure it is the rear sway bar mounts making some sweet metal-to-metal music on the frame. I'll have to address that later...
On another note, I picked up a 1.4 bar expansion tank cap on the cheap! $11 for some peace of mind over the OE 2.0 bar cap and a lot less dollars than the 1.2 bar ANODIZED MACHINED VTEC cap from G.A.S.
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Let's see what else we got OH RIGHT. I went through the hell of trimming/rolling the rear fender lips. Never. Again.
I researched the shit out of this topic for months on end and finally settled on a plan to cut the fender lip back a bit, but not so much that it breaks the seam weld, then roll the remaining lip up out of the way. Did it go to plan? Well, no. Nothing ever does.
First things first, drink a beer. Then, pop another one onto the trailing arm with a mAGiCaL mAgNeT kOoZiE oOoOoOh
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I got started cutting the fender lip with Spenser's dremel tool. Cute lil guy. Should do fine, right?
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Quickly ate through one disc...ok...
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...then it got real hot and started smoking a bit...ok... we'll wait for you to cool off...
While I was waiting, I googled "Dremel 400 XPR smoking." Apparently it's common for that tool to overheat and people were saying that it's better to just leave it on a low speed and let the fan cool it off instead of shutting it down hot...ok...
So, back at it, grinding away, speed 6, paying more attention to heat/binding, being real sweet to it, bitch starts spewing smoke again...ok...I immediately crank the speed down to zero...oops, wanted to keep it on low...oops, slid it back to 4 AND FLAMES SHOOT OUT OF THE SIDES OF THIS THING. 0. We're done playing these games.
I went inside, had a beer, explained to the wife what the burning hair smell was that had crept up to the main floor. Back to the garage 10 minutes later, clicked the Dremel on, it smokes, sparks, and sputters to its death. Bye bye.
This is how far I got. I'm done for the night. One casualty is enough.
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And I still owe Spenser a dremel tool :(
mayber you'd be better off with a real cutoff wheel... air or electric. Those dremmels aren't designed to take that kind of load... as you found out
Looks like you haven't had good luck with your dremel. I bought one about 6 years ago (was the nicest one they sold at the time and I think pretty much still is) but every time I have had to use it, it has been invaluable for me..
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Gotcha. This is the one I have. And yeah. I feel like they aren't used too often but whenever I need it, it's something that no other tool would work for. https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...593f00e691.jpg
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Yep, I moved up to the $15 harbor freight angle grinder of death, threw on a face shield/ear protection and went to town.
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The used a heat gun to soften the remaining caulk stuff enough to pull out
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And removed the spring to test the fit
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We're good!
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[emoji106]
What offset is that wheel? I don't remember...
By this time I had bought a replacement for Spenser's murdered Dremel tool and used it to clean up the edges on the cut sheet metal. Then I tried rolling the remaining lip, but the wheel on my janky $25 fender roller was super soft, so it just kind of mashed it up a little bit and didn't really do anything productive. Whatever, I got the space I needed from cutting. All that was left to do was clean the inside of the lip and brush on a few coats of POR 15.
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And I got all up in that ass
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A little bid of bleed under the masking tape but it's on the bottom of the fender lip so idgaf party on rust free fam