I can tell you in a couple weeks. I bought this one from the same seller a week or two ago (same one minus the witness mark at 12:00)Quote:
Originally Posted by JPMo
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I can tell you in a couple weeks. I bought this one from the same seller a week or two ago (same one minus the witness mark at 12:00)Quote:
Originally Posted by JPMo
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...3289abdc5a.png
lol cool. good lookin out!Quote:
Originally Posted by 704sw
I’m in the process of putting on a new seat cover on my drivers seat. So far so good, but I’m stuck on trying to remove the black plastic tubes that the pegs from the headdresses go into. Anyone have insight into this.
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Oh man those things are a sumbitch for sure. You have to squeeze the shit out of them on the bottom side to compress the tabs that lock them in. I think I have some loose of you need pics.Quote:
Originally Posted by joeybananaz18
Yaaaaaas I have the seat back off and I can see it look like there are 3 separate tabs. Any pics would be incredibly helpful.Quote:
Originally Posted by ZHPizza
Also, what have people done with all the grommets that keep the cover attached to the foam? I did the seat bottom and re-affixed three on either side plus the ones in the middle. Just curious to know how many people put back on or if they do anything else.
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Here you go dude. You have to reach up there with some pliers and mash the shit out of the tab that I'm pointing to. Also have to crush the tabs on the bottom of the post with the locking mechanism. Make sure the headrest + posts are removed first.Quote:
Originally Posted by joeybananaz18
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...07f6d44d4a.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...cd85f41347.jpg
Ooooooooh gotcha I was only squeezing the tabs on the bottom. Perfect I’ll give that a try. Thanks so much!Quote:
Originally Posted by ZHPizza
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grommets? you mean hog rings? you can try to save yours by using needle nose pliers to OPEN them up.. i was able to reuse most of mine. i also had purchased a set of new hog rings on amazon along with hog ring pliars.Quote:
Originally Posted by joeybananaz18
what ever you do be careful working with the seat frames. they are super sharp and with the amount of FORCE you will be exerting trying to push/pull/squeeze things around... you are sure to just "slip" and slice your hand/fingers pretty bad.
Ahhh yes hog rings! i knew i wasn't using the right term. I been reusing as many as I could. Such a pain in the ass tho.Quote:
Originally Posted by nextelbuddy
Pizza that pic was perfect i really helped me know what i was mashing because you end up working in such a tight spot. It's hard to get plier up where you need them. I now have a completely dismantled driver's seat. I would have loved to stay out there a do some more work tonight but it was already hot and parking the car in the garage only drove temps up even higher. Hopefully I'll have some pics of a finished seat tomorrow.
My front driver's side window started popping/crunching. I've read about the zip-tie fix. Does that work in most situations? Is it best to replace the window regulator?
IMO I'd just replace it... who wants to take the door apart twice....
I don't even want to do it once. What are the tools required? I'm guessing it's not too bad of a DIY?
It's not bad - plastic trim tools, Torx driver, ratchet & sockets, razor blade, butyl caulk rope.
https://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=356847
https://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=939039
http://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/sh...1#post28233751
http://regulatorfix.com/
Thanks
Are there any other parts needed other than the regulators?
FCP seems to have one of the lowest prices on the genuine regulators.
Purchasing from FCP will mean it's the last one you'll buy as long as they have the free replacement. I've been able to remove the vapor barrier without damaging it by using a single-edged razor blade to help separate it from the butyl caulk when stubborn. Heating the butyl caulk strip with a heat gun or hair dryer before pressing the barrier back into position will help the barrier re-adhere to the caulk.Quote:
Originally Posted by holyc0w
Hey guys so.... my center support bearing decided to take a dump lol
I’m thinking I’ll be replacing 02 Sensors while I’m down there, but is there anything else I can do while I’m under there that I’m not thinking about?
AND.... ecstuning has a Univ. Flex Disc kit, am I better off just buying the support bearing and the guibo/flex disc and only replacing that?
Or is everything in there kit worth replacing?
Thanks in advance guys!
https://www.ecstuning.com/b-assemble...SABEgIjzPD_BwE
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Makes sense to do both while you have it apart.
on my old E39, i replaced the Guibo and had to pull it all back apart the do the support bearing 2 months later.
I'd get the kit... you don't want to have to drop the drive shaft twice. That's the same kit I used a couple of months ago
The O2 sensors that matter are at the top og the manifolds and are removed under the hood. The secondary Os sensors are for catalytic converter function and rarely go bad...
Is it possible to change the window regulator without having the airbag light come on? I think I read it's possible. The video I watched had the person using the regulator to get the window in the right position to get to the 2 screws/bolts, and then again when putting it back together. Is there a way to avoid that?
Just disconnect the battery and let it sit for 10 or so minutes, then do the job. If you have to reconnect the battery, make sure to plug the airbag back in before you do and you shouldn't have any issues.Quote:
Originally Posted by holyc0w
Including safety?Quote:
Originally Posted by az3579
Just trying to make this fool-proof.
Not sure what you mean.Quote:
Originally Posted by holyc0w
last time I changed the regulator, I didn't disconnect the battery. All was well and no light. You don't have to remove the air bag from the door to do the regulator.
I won't get blasted by the airbag.Quote:
Originally Posted by az3579
Good to knowQuote:
Originally Posted by Sockethead
I searched here and can’t find the info: does it matter what year the dead pedal comes out of regarding the M3? I want one for the ZHP
I think you have to buy a special one for the sedan iircQuote:
Originally Posted by BADCLOWN
Sounds right
I think a few of the sedan people here got the coupe one and the fitment wasn't right.
I've never had it come on. You'll have to manage the battery connection as you complete the job. Ensure the battery is disconnected when the airbag is disconnected.
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You have to buy the sedan specific ///M dead pedal the one from the coop is too short and will not meet up with your door jamb sill plateQuote:
Originally Posted by BADCLOWN
Anybody have the European connection? Lol
The airbag will not go off unless one of the crash sensors goes off. I would imagine BMW would also have logic to require the vehicle to be moving but I don't know about that. Also remember that you're nowhere near the airbag when you apply power to it. Just don't disconnect it with power applied or reconnect it with power active and you'll be fine and won't get a light.Quote:
Originally Posted by holyc0w
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Try Sreten. He seems to be good at finding rare things all across Europe.Quote:
Originally Posted by BADCLOWN
I can sympathize here. For whatever reason I have an overly cautious fear of airbags. So much so, I didn't have the balls to swap out my steering wheel.Quote:
Originally Posted by holyc0w
Has anyone else tried a sprint booster on a car with a taller diff and tune? I have a 3.38 and shark tune and the sprint booster makes it jumpy to the point that I don't like having it on at all.
This ^ - just drape or tape it out of the way. If you turn the car on with the airbag disconnected (to move the regulator's position to be able to attach the window, for example) you'll set off the SRS light. I used a spare battery & leads to connect to the regulator motor to move the regulator to avoid the dreaded light!Quote:
Originally Posted by Sockethead
I had one on my car with 3.15, Dinan stage 3 tune and headers. I really liked it before I got the headers but once the headers were installed, the car had enough torque to make the sprint booster unnecessary IMOQuote:
Originally Posted by ZHPizza
I don't think I even disconnected the air bag IIRC. Like BP said, the air isn't going to go off unless voltage is applied to itQuote:
Originally Posted by John in VA
Ok that's where I'm at too. I think it would be great without either the tune or diff, but 1st gear is already touchy as hell with those two. I guess I'll hold off on the sport button mod until I decide if I'm ever going to use this thing.Quote:
Originally Posted by Sockethead
Yep, I ended up selling my sprint booster with the un-modded M3 button assy. to another member
I hv SB w AA tune and now w a supercharger (SC). Still love it. Did you try the medium setting? I still have mine on red (full) even with the SC.Quote:
Originally Posted by ZHPizza
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