Yeah I've tried it on a 3.07 diff car and hated it. The throttle is way too touchy in all modes, and doesn't actually do anything that your foot can't solve by just pressing down on the pedal more.Quote:
Originally Posted by ZHPizza
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Yeah I've tried it on a 3.07 diff car and hated it. The throttle is way too touchy in all modes, and doesn't actually do anything that your foot can't solve by just pressing down on the pedal more.Quote:
Originally Posted by ZHPizza
Definitely not my experience, esp the 'just pressing your foot down'. I get that it's not for everyone, but there is a difference. Ask anyone who's driven my car.Quote:
Originally Posted by az3579
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Definitely not my experience either. I really liked it with just the tune and mild diff ratio upgrade. I left it on the second setting
What adhesive did you use to reglue your pillar trim fabric?
I've driven your car, remember? :)Quote:
Originally Posted by johnrando
'Putting your foot down more' is really all the unit does according to all the graphs. It just takes the full pedal range and condenses it to a smaller pedal travel zone. But, its behavior is essentially the same as 'putting your foot down more'.
Here's the proof:
https://www.google.com/url?sa=i&sour...34015660907488Attachment 33654
Quote:
Originally Posted by Sockethead
Sweet, just figured out what 02’s I’ll be replacing indefinitely then thanks!
And I keep being told by buddy’s of mine that all the hardware can be reused and I’ve read across the E39, M3, and E46F that no one buys new hardware for the Driveshaft or Giubo?
The two things in question in the kit for me are the 1. Threaded Ring & Clamp & 2. Driveshaft Centering Sleeve. Are they really necessary or am I just buying things that they through in the kit for no reason?
Thanks a bunch!
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I bought that same kit (or maybe one identical from FCP, I can’t remember), and that centering sleeve is still sitting on my shelf. I’ll have to refresh my memory, but I think those two items don’t apply to our driveshafts?Quote:
Originally Posted by ZHP_Brandon
Regarding the hardware: technically it is single use. I replaced mine because I figured “hey it’s 13 years old, might as well.” I’ve since removed the driveshaft a second time and simply used blue loctite when reattaching.
That’s a good rule of thumb, I’ll keep some blue loctite around for the job. I think I’ll stay with the old hardware in this caseQuote:
Originally Posted by 704sw
& yeah the two extra items to me seem so silly, Ecs is selling the full kit for 125$, yet FCP if added separately into my cart without hardware has a total of 70$ [emoji15]
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Didn't say your driveshaft center bearing failed? If that's the case that could of affected the centering bearing. A worn out guibo or center bearing could cause excessive wear on the centering bearing. It would suck if you had a new vibration after getting everything back together...
I'm a believer: I drove Rando's car a couple of years ago. Sprint Booster FTW !Quote:
Originally Posted by johnrando
BP, I know you have, I was messing with you. :)
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Yep. Perhaps install zip ties as PM on new lift.Quote:
Originally Posted by Sockethead
Get some new butyl tape to reinstall the rain/moisture barrier.
Right. Just hang it with a zip tie and leave connected. As far as safety, I think your fine unless you hit the door with extreme force!Quote:
Originally Posted by Sockethead
So I picked up a performance air intake off e46fanatics a couple of weeks ago. I had some time today to install it. it was also my first time giving it a proper inspection. I found out that the previous owner cut a hole in the bottom of the air box, similar to that of the dinan air box. I'm waiting to hear back from him on this, but i can only assume his intention was to run a flexible tube down to the brake ducts and get more air into it. If i decide to finish up this job, would i see any difference in performance or sound?
If i decide against it i'll just patch it up.
Maybe a dumb question, but how bad is this? Date codes on all 4 are between March and August of 2015, and this is present on all 4 tires.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...3be263faff.jpg
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...94d9d311cc.jpg
Fine for street driving.
Wouldn't use it on the track though.
I think tires are good for 6 years or something like that.Sent from my Pixel using TapatalkQuote:
Originally Posted by 704sw
I have those marks on the front tires on the 135. It's from rubbing though. (Doesn't rub anymore)
Thanks, BP. These are my street tires/wheels so I’ll keep them exclusively that way.Quote:
Originally Posted by az3579
Mine aren’t from rubbing, I assume they’re from driving all last winter on performance summer tires.Quote:
Originally Posted by Newjack
PERFORMANCE ALL THE TIMEQuote:
Originally Posted by 704sw
PERFORMANCE ICE SLIDES ON PERFORMANCE HOCKEY PUCKS!!!Quote:
Originally Posted by Newjack
There's a new line of tires from Michelin for that.Quote:
Originally Posted by 704sw
Pilot Super Pucks
I used (and believe others have as well) 3M Super 77. Picked it up at Wally World.Quote:
Originally Posted by BADCLOWN
https://www.govgroup.com/images_prod...0632_large.jpg
I think I'll do that. Got some butyl tape as well. I think I'll be ready on Saturday.Quote:
Originally Posted by ELCID86
Well I plan on replacing the entire center bearing assembly (including the bearing), the driveshaft flex disc (giubo) so does that cover everything?Quote:
Originally Posted by Sockethead
And we’ll while I’m down there, I’ve never addressed the transmission and motor mounts. I’ve heard of people going for the M3 transmission mounts, should I go M3 or UUC poly Black mounts instead? The car just gets daily driven, never seen a track and I can’t say I plan on it for now
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M3 rubber. I added poly and removed them a week later. So much NVH I couldn’t handle it, and I’m already more tolerant to NVH than most.Quote:
Originally Posted by ZHP_Brandon
Lol perfect answer, I find my brothers turbo M3 very harsh it’s poly everything [emoji854]Quote:
Originally Posted by 704sw
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I had UUC black rubber trans mounts but just discovered after 8 years that they are fluid filled after finding pancake syrup like fluid on the garage floor. Will be switching to M3
why is it I see more non M people complain about NVH than M cars owners?Quote:
Originally Posted by 704sw
i read both groups and forums and I cant recall the last time I saw someone in an M3 group say they cant stand the NVH from some mounts... but go into the non M groups and its more common to see that complaint.
Quote:
Originally Posted by nextelbuddy
Because those mounts are designed to work in the M cars and not the non-M ones. lol
theres no difference between non M chassis and M chassis in regards to the mounts other than the rubber used. the engines albeit different in non M.. all use the same alloys in their subframes, mount arms, cross members, nuts bolts unibody.....Quote:
Originally Posted by az3579
i dont see any reason for a non M owner to care more about NVH over an M owner other than a perception thing where they have purchased a NON M and expect non M noise and vibrations...
which is fine but when you track your car that seems a little odd to me lol.
I think my issue with poly tranny mounts was not pairing them with poly engine mounts. It felt weird (unbalanced maybe is the right word?), and made quite a rumble in the car. It wasn’t loud, but the shifter shook a bit.Quote:
Originally Posted by nextelbuddy
The reason I say I’m more tolerant to NVH than most is because I’m single, no kids, seldom have passengers, and track my car. Meaning I have nobody in the car to make comfortable. My car drones, it’s stiff, it’s not quiet in the car, and my brakes squeal like a mofo. And while I really liked the crisp feeling of the poly tranny bushings it just wasn’t something I wanted to live with every day during the weeks or months between my track days.
The engines and transmissions being different is reason enough to use a different material, hence a different feeling in the car. Harmonics are engineered very precisely with the manufacturer.Quote:
Originally Posted by nextelbuddy
Apples and oranges. Different drivetrains = different results = different expectations.Quote:
i dont see any reason for a non M owner to care more about NVH over an M owner other than a perception thing where they have purchased a NON M and expect non M noise and vibrations...
Also, non-M owners tend to have different requirements than M owners as far as what is acceptable in a daily driver. I'm sure there's a higher percentage of M3 owners who track their cars compared to 330 owners who do... what I see at the track every time tells me this.
The wife's touring pulls to the left under braking, but doesn't pull at all during normal driving. I'd guess a suspension component was at fault, but the front left rotor is wearing down faster and that wheel dusts up significantly worse than the other three -- to the point that I suspected a stuck caliper.
So do I have, like, one really beefed up caliber trying to outlift all the other caliper bros?
Edit: Thinking now that it's a sticking right caliper that won't close enough and the left is doing all of the braking
Last brake fluid flush? On last brake job, were the caliper guide pins inspected and lubed?Quote:
Originally Posted by ZHPizza
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In regards to UUC transmission bushings, I had some paired to M3 motor mounts. There was a little vibration at idle. The “deal breaker” for some is that at around 1800rpm, you’re in harmony with the natural frequencies of the car. It’s pretty unpleasant. But, just change gears. I’m 20 so take that as you will. YMMV
I had 2 flat black gaskets fall out when removing the door panel. What are they for? The 2 bottom bolts?
Small foam discs? Those go on some of the door panel clips. I think the ones around the lower speaker.Quote:
Originally Posted by holyc0w
YesQuote:
Originally Posted by ZHPizza
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I believe they were on all of the door clips initially, according to my 2000 328i, 2002 325xi & the ZHP.Quote:
Originally Posted by holyc0w
Can someone tell me the part number/where to buy the clips for the black exterior door moulding for a sedan? I can only find the M3 ones on ECS so I suppose they are different part numbers.