Looks like there are 2 styles - #4 & #5. Click on the camera icon to see the difference: https://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/sho...diagId=51_3265Quote:
Originally Posted by Yankeefan
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Looks like there are 2 styles - #4 & #5. Click on the camera icon to see the difference: https://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/sho...diagId=51_3265Quote:
Originally Posted by Yankeefan
Quote:
Originally Posted by ZHPizza
Yep, thanks. Funny how I didn't look at the door panel after I took it off. It was pretty clear.Quote:
Originally Posted by John in VA
I'm having a hell of a time getting the fan clutch off. We removed the expansion tank to get better access. Tried the special tools and no budge. Tried randomly bashing with a mallet with a 4lb sledge a good 40 times, no budge. I'm at a loss here if anyone has some insight on what'd they do in this moment.
I'm sure you know it's reverse-threaded. Are you banging in the proper direction? Once off, use a dab of anti-seize on the nut & spin it back on - no wrench needed.Quote:
Originally Posted by YoitsTmac
Hit it with some penetrating oil. It should come off real easy if you have the wrench and pulley holder. It's reverse threaded.Quote:
Originally Posted by YoitsTmac
If you're using the mallet, you want to do quick strikes so the pulley doesn't move too much.
Yeah I've been doing quick strikes in the clockwise direction. Have used some penetrating fluid too. Quick strikes has also clipped my thermostat and ripped it apart lol. Luckily that's one of the things I'm replacing. So penetrating fluid and that's really it? This is like our third (and most "going all in") attempt at getting it off. I don't know what more I can do.
I've had better luck with a deadblow hammer vs. sledge - you don't want it to rebound upon impulse. You can use a long-handled screwdriver or prybar (or "special tools") across two of the bolt heads on the pulley to keep it from turning as you strike the wrench on the nut. Might just need more time with penetrating oil, or a torch!
Good luck!
I ended up cutting the top of the fan clutches cover, unscrewing the fan blades, lifting the rest of the fan clutch cover out with the fan blades, and then taking out the water pump. That's what I was in there to replace and doing a cooling system swap.
Are these a direct bolt on with the 135i BMWP calipers?
https://cincinnati.craigslist.org/pt...674816527.html
Yesterday my hazard and lock switches in the console stopped working and the mirrors have started acting possessed. My locks still work from the fob. The mirrors will move unprovoked to through their full range of motion. When I use the switch to select right or left and move the joystick, it will move all the way in that direction. so I am unable to adjust my mirrors short of manually.
Anyone had this issue?
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When I bought my car there a factory sunshade in the trunk. It seems too small for my car, but I don't know which one to buy, any suggestions?
Also which car is this sunshade for, the coupe maybe?
Attachment 33772
Nah, the coupe has a longer windshield. Don't know what that lil guy is for.Quote:
Originally Posted by ComradeNick
I wanted the bavauto ultimate sunshade and found it under the generic brand on autoanything so I was able to use coupons. Search around and you'll find the thread on it.
Is there a tag with any writing/numbers?Quote:
Originally Posted by ComradeNick
This is the factory shade - https://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/sho...89#82111470411
Supposedly it fits ALL E46 3 Series from 1999 to 2005 (E46 320 320i 323 323Ci 323i 325 325Ci 325i 325Xi 328 328i 328Ci 330 330i 330Xi 330Ci M3) / Sedan / Coupe / Convertible / Touring: BMW List Price:$65.00, from online dealer parts stores & eBay ~$50.70.
You can also check the Covercraft UVS100 - appears to be the same item without BMW lettering across it.
99% sure the BMWP kit from ECS uses the same dimension bracket as RebootEngineering does for regular 135i calipers. It’s set up for use with standard 330 rotors (325x25). M3/CSL/ZCP rotors are 28mm thick.Quote:
Originally Posted by BADCLOWN
I wonder if this is a GM5 issue?Quote:
Originally Posted by JETSET303
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What is GM5? I am still learning. This is my first German.Quote:
Originally Posted by danewilson77
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General module 5 - https://www.bmwgm5.com/Quote:
Originally Posted by JETSET303
Anything I should be planning to do at the same time as tackling the oil pan gasket? After my starter fiasco, I don’t want to ever have another scenario where I’masking myself “why the hell didn’t I do that while I was in there?!”...
All depends on how far you want to take it.Quote:
Originally Posted by 704sw
I did gasket, engine mounts, steering coupler, oil level sensor. The oil pan nut was tight so I did not do anything with it.
You can get a different oil pump, weld in an oil pan baffle, and etc.
You should talk to Rob. He started off with replacing the oil pan gasket (I think) and ended with a supercharger and headers lolQuote:
Originally Posted by 704sw
The it was supposed to be just an oil pan gasket project
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Thanks John. My locks work from the key fob though, and not intermittently. They work perfectly since I got the new key. It is the interior lock button and hazard switch in the center console and my mirrors that are acting up.Quote:
Originally Posted by John in VA
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My mounts and coupler have been replaced since I bought it. I was thinking about the oil pump nut with the wire through it, but I guess I can make that assessment when I get in there? I should order one just in case since I need to order a lower o-ring for the dip stick tube anyway.Quote:
Originally Posted by Vas
The pump and baffle—I honestly think that’s above my skill set, and I’m not sure I have a firm understanding of the benefits. I’m still immersing myself into all of this.
As for the oil level sensor, it is relatively accessible without taking too much apart, right?
Oh boy, now I have some reading material for my lunch hour.Quote:
Originally Posted by san
Paging @ZHPizza . Wasn’t there a similar problem with the red car when we went to look at it?Quote:
Originally Posted by JETSET303
I haven’t replaced my oil level sensor but from what I’ve read it’s quite easy to do. Most people do it when replacing the engine oil. I think it’s held in place by a couple of screws. Not sure if Vas has done it but I remember William doing it and saying it’s quite easy.Quote:
Originally Posted by 704sw
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Like Spenser said, I've had this problem with the center console switch on several cars. Did it start acting up the same time as the mirrors? If so, then they may be related, but the console switch is notorious for breaking. Pull the console and pop the switch out and see if it works when you press on the bottom of the switch. They tend to break off the tabs that hold them together, so the bottom pushes out and doesn't engage the switch anymore:Quote:
Originally Posted by JETSET303
http://forum.e46fanatics.com/attachm...8&d=1209613595
I usually fix them bu wrapping a piece of non-stretching tape (packing tape) over the bottom and up the sides. The tape fix has lasted me years without issue.
Super easy while you have the pan empty during an oil change. I think you have to pull the aluminum underbody brace off, but it's just three screws holding the sensor in.Quote:
Originally Posted by san
I noticed the console switches at the same time the mirrors started acting up. Could be coincidence. Thanks for the advice. I will start there.
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Is simple green a good solvent to clean the engine bay? Anything better?
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I like it - it can be diluted more/less depending on the job. Meguiar's All-purpose cleaner or Super degreaser are a bit less harsh & won't do any damage/leave white residue/deposits on the aluminum surfaces.Quote:
Originally Posted by san
https://meguiarsonline.com/forums/forumdisplay.php?69-engine-Compartment-Detailing
Thanks John!Quote:
Originally Posted by John in VA
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If you are going to have the oil pan off, I'd recommend the baffle, if you are going to track your car. Just buy a baffle and take it and the oil pan to a machine shop or performance shop that does aluminum welding and they'll do the rest. that's what I did.Quote:
Originally Posted by 704sw
As far as the oil pump goes, I replaced the whole thing with an Achilles oil pump. Not that difficult. it's just a couple of bolts that hold on the pump. I can give you some tips on replacing the oil pump if needed.
I beat on my car since it had 44K on it and the oil pump nut was tight as hell but I had already bought the oil pump.
Oil level sensor is on the bottom of the oil pan. You have to take off the aluminum support brace to get it but it can be done with an oil change.
Quote:
Originally Posted by san
Thanks, Rob. I’m honestly considering a second car for dedicated track duty, which is why I don’t want to go too crazy on this one. The Achilles baffle looks good, and in reading more I understand the benefits, but I think I want to save future track-prep mods for the second car. I’d like to work my way up to club racing, and SpecMiata or SpecE46 are really calling my name. But I might change my mind on the baffle in the next few weeks.Quote:
Originally Posted by Sockethead
Originally Posted by san, responding to "Is simple green a good solvent to clean the engine bay? Anything better?"
I use Purple Power.... used to be called Castrol Super Clean. Works great and is environmentally safe. Put in on undiluted and hose off. The only thing is if you have anything anodized under the hood, you don't want to leave it on there for a long time. After you're done, dress the engine bay with Silkonlene Pro Prep and your engine bay will look brand new.
My neighbor had Castrol Super Clean lift the paint from the air cleaner housing of his GMC truck. Don't know if this is a GMC paint quality issue or due to the Super Clean, but I don't need that kind of cleaning power!
Simple Green, Purple Power, oven cleaners... are great for removing grease, but will attack raw aluminum, especially if left on too long. Dawn dish wash soap is great for cleaning grease. Dawn and a bristle brush can go a long way.
If the paint came off, it was ready to come off anyway.
I've never had an issue with super clean/purple power. I've been using it since the early 90's on everything. cars, motorcycles, golf carts, lawn mowers, grills, etc. Even used it to clean the cloth seats in my "85 bronco back in the day... which came out like new.
Anything that's raw aluminum or anodized should only be washed with soapy water but you can still use super clean on it if you wet it first or hose it off within a minute or so. The aluminum block, VANOS assy, etc is un affected by super clean/Purple power
We use Simple Green full strength at work to clean ultrasound diagnostic machines...they are mostly plastic, painted parts and aluminum. Never had an issue with that either.
I would never let a can of oven cleaner get near anything but an oven.
Fixt.Quote:
Originally Posted by Sockethead
Attachment 33784
Hey, I'm not in Jersey anymore...
Oil pan gasket is on my future jobs list.Quote:
Originally Posted by Sockethead
1.) is it worth replacing the oil pump? They seem pretty solid, nut aside.
2.) aren’t there pan baffles that bolt in?
If you're not tracking your car a lot or living in the upper RPM range, I wouldn't worry about it. I beat on my car a lot since I bought it with 44k on it and the nut was tight as hell... I knew I was going FI so that is the major reason for upgrading those parts.
I haven't seen any that bolt in... The only two I really looked at were VAC and Achilles spec e46 catalogs...
Yes I track the car.
In that case, I'd do both while you're in there.Quote:
Originally Posted by stephenkirsh
If you decide to replace the oil pump, make sure you prime it. I know there is at least 1 other member that installed the pump dry and didn't have an issue but why take the chance. Fill that baby with oil and spin it a few times to get it good and primed then bolt it on.
There are some that are retrofitting a tensioner for the oil pump chain but that will more work...
After lots of research, it seems to help with track duty, you should get an S54 chain tensioner, INA overdrive pulley, and a GSR pump.
An oil pump chain tensioner from S54 is also a good idea but risks head gasket damage