Those notches are the min and max lines. It's easier to read that one than a regular car's because you don't have to look for a min and max line on the stick which may or may not be covered in oil. :)Quote:
Originally Posted by NYRhockey
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Those notches are the min and max lines. It's easier to read that one than a regular car's because you don't have to look for a min and max line on the stick which may or may not be covered in oil. :)Quote:
Originally Posted by NYRhockey
Curious what others actually have on their alignment readout.
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What do you want to know about alignment settings? I have researched the heck out of this stuff recently and am appalled by BMW's recommended settings for these cars. So much toe in that it drives like a tractor.Quote:
Originally Posted by johnrando
mechanic once told me that toe in is for the purpose of road friction pushing toe back to zero when driving. But why not just have zero toe to begin with...?
He's right. The rubber RTABs and FCABs in these cars have some give, so they set the alignment with a lot of toe in at rest. When you're running 80mph, the rolling resistance pushes against those rubber bushings and makes the wheels want to toe out, but since he set them with static toe in, they end up tracking straight.Quote:
Originally Posted by papa_g
The toe in at low speeds just makes the car not want to turn and I can't stand it though.
My caster settings are negative on one side and positive on the other. I know almost nothing about caster. Was wondering what 'normal' would be and then what the Z4M ones that add caster would do.
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Caster is basically the angle that your strut is tilted back towards the driver and that must be a misprint because you can't have negative caster. It's about 5.0° and can't be adjusted on these cars. The Z4M FCABs push the wheel forward a bit in the well and therefore give you a little more caster, which improves turn in.Quote:
Originally Posted by johnrando
This is my latest printout from when I had Firestone shoot for -1.5° camber and use the BMW settings for toe. It plowed so hard into corners with all that toe in. I've since replaced the rubber bushings with monoballs so that toe has got to go.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...b02eda1f9a.jpg
There should really be a super alignment thread because this information is super useful!
What are you thoughts on my trunk? It's been this way since I purchased the car which makes me think it may have been hit. Could it just be some sort of misalignment that's easily fixable or is the trunk warped? The other side is completely flush. https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...d5bb5b693b.jpg
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These alignment posts are very informative - would be easier to find them in the Suspension section vs. 600+ pages of random stuff!
http://www.zhpmafia.com/forums/forum...?99-Suspension
Yea it’s the easiest one to read!!Quote:
Originally Posted by az3579
FWIW, I overfill both my miata and zhp by at least half a quart. Cuts down on lifter tick from track/autox.
Random question for y'all. I'm considering buying the newest Xtrons unit (pb7846bp). Would there be any reason to possibly wait and see if they come out with an update in the next few months or just go ahead and get this unit while it's only $300 on Amazon. Let me know what you guys think. Thanks!
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I have the newest Eonon unit, it’s identical to the xtrons. I really don’t know what else they can improve on, only issue I have with it is connecting to my iPhone’s hotspot but that an issue with iPhones. I could see more storage and possibly higher resolution but idk. Keep in mind you should expect these units to last no more than two years, they could but they’ve been known to fail prematurely. If you buy the current one I don’t think you will be disappointed.Quote:
Originally Posted by tomnobes
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Sounds good. Thanks!Quote:
Originally Posted by ComradeNick
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TWO YEARS?!? That’s nuts.Quote:
Originally Posted by ComradeNick
It’s like any electronic, you don’t expect an iPhone to last more than two without degrading. With these especially it’s easier to buy a new one for 300 bucks than go through the effort of trying to fix it. Nobody really knows how long these will last since nobody’s passed the two year mark yet, but if older units are an indication I’d give them anywhere from 2-3years.Quote:
Originally Posted by stephenkirsh
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And that, my friend, is why I’m perfectly content with my magnetic phone mount and aux cable.Quote:
Originally Posted by stephenkirsh
+1 (without the magnetic phone mount)Quote:
Originally Posted by 704sw
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My iPhone is over 4 years old... works fine.Quote:
Originally Posted by ComradeNick
I would be too, except all devices are now removing the headphone jack. So am aux cable is useless now.Quote:
Originally Posted by 704sw
Add a Bluetooth receiver to the aux and your set.Quote:
Originally Posted by stephenkirsh
Most ZHPs have built in Bluetooth, but fromQuote:
Originally Posted by stephenkirsh
What I understand it’s a pain in the ass to set up
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Yea I have the crappy little lightning to aux adapter, but to be honest I’ve primarily just been enjoying the sweet sound of my intake+exhaust since I upgraded from my 6S last December.Quote:
Originally Posted by stephenkirsh
Mine doesn’t, but I added a DICE media bridge. It’s only ok.Quote:
Originally Posted by ComradeNick
I’m buying a ZSP today (it also does not have Bluetooth) for my wife, and the DICE won’t be up to her standards; it’s Bluetooth is unreliable for some reason.
I’m guessing if you have a phone with no aux you can still get an adapter for micro usb or lightning to aux.Quote:
Originally Posted by stephenkirsh
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Very helpful, thanks!Quote:
Originally Posted by ZHPizza
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Oil pan baffle question: I understand the principle behind an oil pan or fuel tank baffle, but now I want to see if it's worth getting one.
I have an A/T. For this reason, I do not see myself tracking the car.
I do like the occasional spirited drive on windy country roads.
I am convincing myself that BMW has already engineered the oilpan dimensions with drivers like me in mind, so there is no need to augment the current design.
Am I right? I am asking because I am doing my oil pan gasket real soon.
You don't need an oil pan baffle unless you are experience sustained high g cornering, such as a track or autocross course. Save your money. [emoji106]
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Gotcha! Thanks. I was taking one of those 270º-turn freeway on ramps the other day at higher speed than usual. Felt the g-forces for about 5 seconds and started thinking hahaQuote:
Originally Posted by az3579
+1 (I added BT too).Quote:
Originally Posted by 704sw
Nah, you're good. A single on/exit ramp isn't enough to cause your lifters to tick.Quote:
Originally Posted by papa_g
Autocross is where the motors are known to tick. I occasionally get the ticking after a full blown track session as well. Haven't removed the oil pan yet since purchasing the car, so a baffle will definitely go in when I finally break down and replace the oil pan gasket. It's not leaking badly enough yet. :)
Track bois help me out here. I dogged the car on the track for the first time Monday and really put it to my Akebono/Textar OEM brake pads. I did not trust the pads to stop me from 100+ if I laid into them, so I was braking light and early, despite Spenser's coaching of mashing the brakes like u got a pair. Obviously still cooked the shit out of them but whatevs.
So as the sessions went on my brake pedal got softer and softer. To the point that I was braking with the left side of my foot, preparing to blip the throttle with the right side, but the pedal was going so far down that I ended up unintentionally catching the gas pedal and powering into the turn. It was ugly enough that I cut the last session short. I would be thinking boiled brake fluid, but the fluid was freshly flushed the day before with Pentosin DOT 4 LV (dry boiling point 509F). That's comparable to the track day bro standard ATE 200/SuperBlue bp of 536F, so...are we still thinking boiled fluid? (boiling points from here https://thebuildjournal.com/tech-gui...parison-guide/)
I also got worse and worse high speed shuddering when I got on the brakes. I assume due to heat build up and angry rotors.
Tonight I plan to:
Bleed the brakes again
Inspect the pads, if there's any left
Drink 3-4 beers and marvel at how awesome my red rocket is
Hope the pedal feel comes back
EDIT: Nvm, just read this and I definitely boiled that ish. Will bleed and use it for street duty through the winter, but step up to better pads and fluid before spring track events start.
https://thebuildjournal.com/tech-gui...view-analysis/
You need beers to do this? I admire mine every couple of hours.Quote:
Originally Posted by ZHPizza
do u use mirrors?Quote:
Originally Posted by BMWCurves
wut r thoseQuote:
Originally Posted by ZHPizza
Because racecarQuote:
Originally Posted by az3579
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I just got finished cleaning my oil pan for the gasket job. Looks like it has a mild version of a baffle; deep depression and thin metal sleeve thing for the oil suction thing. Also I learned that a good 1/2 quart of oil stays in the pan even after draining for an hour.
Quote:
Originally Posted by ZHPizza
Stock brake pads are extremely inadequate for track use. You need a proper set of "streetable" track pads OR full blown track pads to withstand track usage.
The heat buildup starts in the pads, which then transfers to the rotors. Stock rotors are fine for track use, so your bottleneck appears to be the pads. Also make sure you have brake fluid that can withstand the higher temps the brake pads and rotors are putting out. I would recommend ATF Typ 200 (the gold stuff) if you're just starting out. This fluid is perfectly fine for street use too, but make sure to bleed this stuff more regularly than regular brake fluid. I think regular fluid can go 2 years. I would change this fluid out at least yearly. Personally I change it out before every event...
I would say a decent pad to upgrade to is something like EBC Yellowstuff or Hawk HP+, IF you are still a beginner. If you are a more advanced student carrying a lot more speed, you'll need something more durable. I use PFC11's on my car, which is a full blown track pad, and swap them out just for the track.
Does anyone else find that stock pads make a ridiculous amount of brake dust?
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Yes, they do.Quote:
Originally Posted by 3LiterStraightSix
Brake dust is worth the stopping power.