The Random E46/ZHP Question Thread

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10-26-2018, 11:29 AM
704sw

Quote:

Originally Posted by Newjack

Brake dust is worth the stopping power.

That sounds dangerously rational, sir.
10-26-2018, 11:39 AM
PetesZ

I am in the minority that prefer the akebono euro ceramic pads.

I hated the oe pads. Swapped them out on all 5 bmws.

+1 no dust:happydane
10-26-2018, 11:49 AM
az3579

Quote:

Originally Posted by Newjack

Brake dust is worth the stopping power.

I prefer stopping power without the brake dust.
10-26-2018, 12:09 PM
3LiterStraightSix

Quote:

Originally Posted by az3579

I prefer stopping power without the brake dust.

We can't possibly have everything.... Can we?

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10-26-2018, 01:07 PM
ZHPizza

Quote:

Originally Posted by az3579

Stock brake pads are extremely inadequate for track use. You need a proper set of "streetable" track pads OR full blown track pads to withstand track usage.

The heat buildup starts in the pads, which then transfers to the rotors. Stock rotors are fine for track use, so your bottleneck appears to be the pads. Also make sure you have brake fluid that can withstand the higher temps the brake pads and rotors are putting out. I would recommend ATF Typ 200 (the gold stuff) if you're just starting out. This fluid is perfectly fine for street use too, but make sure to bleed this stuff more regularly than regular brake fluid. I think regular fluid can go 2 years. I would change this fluid out at least yearly. Personally I change it out before every event...

I would say a decent pad to upgrade to is something like EBC Yellowstuff or Hawk HP+, IF you are still a beginner. If you are a more advanced student carrying a lot more speed, you'll need something more durable. I use PFC11's on my car, which is a full blown track pad, and swap them out just for the track.

Yup, while the dry boiling point is close to the ATE Typ 200, this Pentosin LV shit just wasn't ready for that kind of heat cycling. I'm going to flush out the boiled fluid and wait until spring to put in some quality race ready fluid. No sense in running it through the winter and letting it absorb water.

For pads, I'm thinking about the PFC Z-rated street pads, or doing like you and Spenser do -- swapping in a streetable track pad before events. I'll be flushing the fluid beforehand anyway, so...?

Quote:

Originally Posted by 3LiterStraightSix

We can't possibly have everything.... Can we?

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The mega dust from the OE pads goes hand in hand with the sharp initial bite. You lose that with a lower dust pad, but (BP about to jump in here on his favorite subject) you get more range of modulation from a performance pad. The lack of initial bite compared to OE makes you think you gave up stopping power, but then you really lean into the brake pedal and throw up on the windshield.
10-26-2018, 01:11 PM
3LiterStraightSix

I follow[emoji108] so what brand/model would you recommend for me? Just a daily driver that likes street performance. BUT, my biggest want is little dust as possible. I'm SO tired of cleaning my style 68s every damn week [emoji58][emoji23]

Quote:

Originally Posted by ZHPizza

Yup, while the dry boiling point is close to the ATE Typ 200, this Pentosin LV shit just wasn't ready for that kind of heat cycling. I'm going to flush out the boiled fluid and wait until spring to put in some quality race ready fluid. No sense in running it through the winter and letting it absorb water.

For pads, I'm thinking about the PFC Z-rated street pads, or doing like you and Spenser do -- swapping in a streetable track pad before events. I'll be flushing the fluid beforehand anyway, so...?

The mega dust from the OE pads goes hand in hand with the sharp initial bite. You lose that with a lower dust pad, but (BP about to jump in here on his favorite subject) you get more range of modulation from a performance pad. The lack of initial bite compared to OE makes you think you gave up stopping power, but then you really lean into the brake pedal and throw up on the windshield.

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10-26-2018, 03:17 PM
fredo

I had akebono ceramic pads on my e90 and was very happy with the results, brake dust was close to zero. For my driving style (non aggressive) they were a perfect fit.
10-26-2018, 03:55 PM
az3579

Yes you do lose some bite with ceramic, but I've found I have pretty much the same actual stopping power, but with significantly less dust.

I can't quote right now (Tapatalk acting up) but to the post above fredo's:

I have had great experience with EBC Redstuff. Pretty decent bite, almost no dust, and great stopping power.

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10-26-2018, 05:42 PM
papa_g

Yeah I've gotten used to the akebonos. Do i miss the initial bite of OE? Every day of my life...
10-26-2018, 07:20 PM
sillieidiot

Quote:

Originally Posted by 3LiterStraightSix

I follow[emoji108] so what brand/model would you recommend for me? Just a daily driver that likes street performance. BUT, my biggest want is little dust as possible. I'm SO tired of cleaning my style 68s every damn week [emoji58][emoji23]

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I'd go with the PFC Z-rated pads. That's what I run. I didn't like the Akebonos when I had it. Yes, you do lose that initial bite over OE, but not that much. Then it's pretty linear from there on out. It's low dust as well. I think it does dust more than the Akebonos, but I thought the braking feel was much better.
10-26-2018, 07:22 PM
Vas

Ebc red. Good pads imo

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10-27-2018, 05:24 PM
ELCID86

Quote:

Originally Posted by Vas

Ebc red. Good pads imo

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Yep. That’s the one.
10-27-2018, 07:43 PM
3LiterStraightSix

Wow thanks for all the replies... But now decisions decisions...

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10-27-2018, 08:19 PM
papa_g

I just finished my oil pan gasket. I let the car run for 10 minutes after refilling the oil, and no drips!
Well, I got under the car to put the aluminum shield back on, and it noticed some oil leaking from the back passenger corner of the pan. Looks like dirty oil. I want to believe this is just some residual oil that got stuck in a crack somewhere during the job, and leaked out when the temperature went up. Also, the oil i put in should look milky, since i added a bottle of liquimoly ceratec. What do you guys think? Is this normal, or should I be concerned?
10-28-2018, 06:35 AM
PetesZ

Let it seat in for a bit.

Watch it for a bit clean it with soap not a full degreaser.
10-28-2018, 10:27 AM
stephenkirsh

Quote:

Originally Posted by PetesZ

I am in the minority that prefer the akebono euro ceramic pads.

I hated the oe pads. Swapped them out on all 5 bmws.

+1 no dust:happydane

I’ve tracked the akebono pads and they held up just fine for a newb. The affordable price, no dust and good stopping power make them a win to me.
10-28-2018, 10:32 AM
3LiterStraightSix

They're especially affordable when they're backed by Fcp for life ha!

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10-28-2018, 02:42 PM
ZHPizza

Quote:

Originally Posted by stephenkirsh

I’ve tracked the akebono pads and they held up just fine for a newb. The affordable price, no dust and good stopping power make them a win to me.

Good to know. I tracked mine the other day and boiled tf out of the fluid. Thought it was the pads getting destroyed but they look to have handled it well.
10-28-2018, 03:32 PM
704sw

Quote:

Originally Posted by 3LiterStraightSix

They're especially affordable when they're backed by Fcp for life ha!

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I saw FCP sells DTC60/70 track pads for the 330 calipers. If they don’t start selling them for the BMWP/135s by the time I need to replace mine next year I might consider putting the OE calipers back on.
10-29-2018, 06:24 AM
az3579

Quote:

Originally Posted by 704sw

I saw FCP sells DTC60/70 track pads for the 330 calipers. If they don’t start selling them for the BMWP/135s by the time I need to replace mine next year I might consider putting the OE calipers back on.

I'm really bummed that FCP's selection is limited to OE stuff, mainly. They don't sell any brake pads for my Wilwood calipers. :(
10-29-2018, 08:58 AM
DeathTrap

Are the limits of the stock pads and calipers that low? I do plan on getting into racing soon, and I'll probably be as slow as molasses going up a hill in the winter...so I might not even need to upgrade for while lol
10-29-2018, 09:12 AM
az3579

Quote:

Originally Posted by DeathTrap

Are the limits of the stock pads and calipers that low? I do plan on getting into racing soon, and I'll probably be as slow as molasses going up a hill in the winter...so I might not even need to upgrade for while lol

The pads are definitely not up to the job. The calipers can withstand a good amount of heat, and you should be fine running aggressive pads with the stock calipers. You can also run brake cooling ducts from the fog light area directed at the rotor to aid in cooling.
10-29-2018, 02:14 PM
sillieidiot

Quote:

Originally Posted by DeathTrap

Are the limits of the stock pads and calipers that low? I do plan on getting into racing soon, and I'll probably be as slow as molasses going up a hill in the winter...so I might not even need to upgrade for while lol

Well when you first start, you tend to use your brakes even more than normal so it would hold up even less lol But the stock calipers should be fine. Just need to upgrade the pads. And fresh fluid.
10-29-2018, 06:24 PM
papa_g

Another random question for yous. I know some of you are avid FCP Euro customers. I just wanted to know which method you use to ship your used stuff back to them? I know many of the guys on this forumare from the eastcoast, so shipping, or literally dropping the stuff off at their office is simple. I am in Seattle, WA, and i have been looking at my options for sending my used oil back. So far, it seems like i am paying almost the same price to send the oil back, as I would be receiving in refund. Would appreciate any insight here, since honestly I don't have much shipping experience.
10-29-2018, 07:11 PM
3LiterStraightSix

Quote:

Originally Posted by papa_g

Another random question for yous. I know some of you are avid FCP Euro customers. I just wanted to know which method you use to ship your used stuff back to them? I know many of the guys on this forumare from the eastcoast, so shipping, or literally dropping the stuff off at their office is simple. I am in Seattle, WA, and i have been looking at my options for sending my used oil back. So far, it seems like i am paying almost the same price to send the oil back, as I would be receiving in refund. Would appreciate any insight here, since honestly I don't have much shipping experience.

I'm also on the east coast, but my suggestion, which i do, is buy a couple oil changes worth of oil, that way you send back say 4 or 6 jugs at a time. It makes shipping more efficient.

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10-29-2018, 07:53 PM
ZHPizza

Or don't abuse the warranty for oil? I'm honestly worried that the M3 guys are going to put FCP out of business with their $80 oil changes. Hopefully they'll remove the lifetime warranty from fluids if it becomes a problem.
10-30-2018, 01:01 AM
papa_g

I've had these thoughts too, but honestly I think most people just don't want to deal with packaging and sending back, especially if it is going to cost as much as a new oil change kit. Really considering not sending fluids back now, and I think most FCP customers don't do it for the same reasons. The more expensive OE parts are definitely worth it though
10-30-2018, 02:40 AM
az3579

1 Attachment(s)

Quote:

Originally Posted by DeathTrap

Are the limits of the stock pads and calipers that low? I do plan on getting into racing soon, and I'll probably be as slow as molasses going up a hill in the winter...so I might not even need to upgrade for while lol

I saw a Facebook post this morning that shows the dangers of stock pads as you get faster, even with good fluid.

Attachment 34195

I'm not sure I can save the video from Facebook, but let's just say the guy almost killed a Miata driver about to take a turn when it just plowed straight past (in front of) him, off the track, and into the wall.

Quote:

Originally Posted by ZHPizza

Or don't abuse the warranty for oil? I'm honestly worried that the M3 guys are going to put FCP out of business with their $80 oil changes. Hopefully they'll remove the lifetime warranty from fluids if it becomes a problem.

Don't stress this, man... if they weren't able to sustain everyone doing it, I'm sure they wouldn't allow oil returns. Just do it! (If it's feasible, with shipping)
10-30-2018, 04:44 AM
san

Quote:

Originally Posted by papa_g

I've had these thoughts too, but honestly I think most people just don't want to deal with packaging and sending back, especially if it is going to cost as much as a new oil change kit. Really considering not sending fluids back now, and I think most FCP customers don't do it for the same reasons. The more expensive OE parts are definitely worth it though

I use UPS. It costs me $15-$20... the smaller the size of the package the cheaper it is...

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10-30-2018, 05:05 AM
DeathTrap

Quote:

Originally Posted by az3579

I saw a Facebook post this morning that shows the dangers of stock pads as you get faster, even with good fluid.

I'm not sure I can save the video from Facebook, but let's just say the guy almost killed a Miata driver about to take a turn when it just plowed straight past (in front of) him, off the track, and into the wall.

This is why I'm anal about good brakes and suspension. My worst fear is not crashing or going into the dirt on the track, but the embarrassment or humiliation of hitting someone else's baby...at least if it's by my negligence.
10-30-2018, 05:36 AM
Vas

Quote:

Originally Posted by papa_g

Another random question for yous. I know some of you are avid FCP Euro customers. I just wanted to know which method you use to ship your used stuff back to them? I know many of the guys on this forumare from the eastcoast, so shipping, or literally dropping the stuff off at their office is simple. I am in Seattle, WA, and i have been looking at my options for sending my used oil back. So far, it seems like i am paying almost the same price to send the oil back, as I would be receiving in refund. Would appreciate any insight here, since honestly I don't have much shipping experience.

You can use the UPS or FedEx option they have on their website to calculate cost to ship and time in transit ( most likely 5 days via Ground Shipping ). Otherwise the only other option is USPS and using a Flat Rate Box since that is a set cost to any state in the United States.

I been using the warranty on oil change kits for a while now. Usually costs me $12 to ship back the kit from Virginia to FCP using UPS Ground.
11-07-2018, 07:26 PM
rguti153

Anybody know where I can purchase some alcantara fabric to repair one of my seats ?

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11-07-2018, 07:37 PM
John in VA

Quote:

Originally Posted by rguti153

Anybody know where I can purchase some alcantara fabric to repair one of my seats?

http://www.zhpmafia.com/forums/showt...it-so-long-!-!
11-07-2018, 08:09 PM
rguti153

Quote:

Originally Posted by John in VA

http://www.zhpmafia.com/forums/showt...it-so-long-!-!

Thank you !!!

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11-12-2018, 03:20 PM
san

Car cover: splash the cash and get the OE BMW or are there cheaper alternatives that so the job just as well?

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11-12-2018, 04:00 PM
Sockethead

we got an OEM one for the 135 when we were in Jersey... no complaints... fit like a glove. Even had pockets for the mirrors and shark fin
11-13-2018, 05:04 AM
san

Quote:

Originally Posted by Sockethead

we got an OEM one for the 135 when we were in Jersey... no complaints... fit like a glove. Even had pockets for the mirrors and shark fin

Thanks Rob.

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11-13-2018, 08:33 AM
704sw

Quote:

Originally Posted by san

Thanks Rob.

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Peterman actually gave me a cover with my car. If I can find it you’re welcome to have it. It’s not OEM but it fits.

If I can find it being the important part.
11-13-2018, 08:37 AM
san

Quote:

Originally Posted by 704sw

Peterman actually gave me a cover with my car. If I can find it you’re welcome to have it. It’s not OEM but it fits.

If I can find it being the important part.

Thanks Spenser. Please let me know if you find it!

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11-17-2018, 04:58 AM
ZHPizza

So I've got this loud hum? that comes from under the car around 68-72mph, peaking at 70. It's not a high pitch whine, but sounds like engine/drivetrain noise. Just grows in volume at one speed then goes away when you get away from 70. It only does it when lightly accelerating. No noise when letting off at 80mph and dropping through the zone. It started after I installed a used 3.38 diff and I thought it was an exhaust leak becoming apparent at a certain rpm, but I tested it in 5th and 6th to confirm that it's road speed related, not engine. Gear wear?

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