Will do. But they're eagle-eyed fellows. They'll probably spot your ad quickly.Quote:
Originally Posted by johnrando
http://i.imgur.com/z0QwWpb.gifQuote:
Originally Posted by ZHPizza
Misread the point of the most recent recall.
Printable View
Will do. But they're eagle-eyed fellows. They'll probably spot your ad quickly.Quote:
Originally Posted by johnrando
http://i.imgur.com/z0QwWpb.gifQuote:
Originally Posted by ZHPizza
Misread the point of the most recent recall.
Forgot to add:
(07/07/2017) - 56,148 miles
Added a bottle of Red Line SI-1 fuel injector cleaner with <1/4 tank of gas remaining since it's been 6k+ miles and I figured it'd be good to clean out the injectors after having sat for six months. Topped off with a full tank of gas.
Purchased the following from FCPEuro:
- Exhaust gaskets for the UUC TSE3 install (2x18107502346)
- 1 gallon of BMW coolant (82141467704) - It's been 2+ years since I flushed the fluid the coolant.
- Crush washer for the coolant drain plug on the engine block (07119963200)
- 1 liter of ATE SL.6 brake fluid - need to do a brake fluid flush
Also picked up some Loctite C5-A/LB 8008 copper-based anti-seize compound for the exhaust as well.
What did BMW specify for the coolant change interval?
Not a clue what BMW states (it's not in the inspection checklist), but I've heard a good interval is 2-3 years.Quote:
Originally Posted by holyc0w
BMW states that the coolant is a lifetime fluid but we all know that isn't the case.
I've never fully flushed/ drained the coolant but I've done the expansion tank. 2 water pumps and a thermostat all at different times. The theory is that the original fluid has been diluted enough over the years to negate the need for a full flush...
Sounds like BMW to me. I figure a coolant flush is cheap insurance. $24 out the door for a gallon of coolant, a gallon of distilled water, and the crush washer isn't bad.Quote:
Originally Posted by Sockethead
I don't have my TSE3 on my car any more but I did have to bend one of the muffler hangars to get the tips to sit right in the diffuser cutout. Not that hard to bend if you have to...Quote:
Originally Posted by BMWCurves
Man wish I could find a used TSE3
Glad to know it's not hard. Thanks!Quote:
Originally Posted by Sockethead
I was lucky. I just searched "UUC" or "Corsa" (can't remember which) in my local Craigslist under the "auto parts" section and found it. It wasn't even labeled as a TSE3, just "UUC exhaust" from a wrecked car that was being parted out.Quote:
Originally Posted by Vas
Saw/smelled slight smoke out of the passenger side of the engine. Couldn't confirm source but I'm guessing it's a failing VCG due to the smell and those metal fins on the block over the exhaust manifold have burnt oil residue on it.
Anything else I should consider doing while I have the valve cover off? I assume BMW is the best brand for VCG?
They are all more or less the same. I had very good experience with Elring, changed probably more than 10 and never had a problem.
Might as well use that opportunity and get a rebuilt vanos from Dr. Vanos or rebuild it on your own if it's original.
If you've never done the VCG before, make sure you get the complete kit and the rubber grommets for the VC bolts. You'll need a tube of black silicone too (black because you be able to see it when done)
+1
Permatex Ultra Grey is my go to sealant - https://www.amazon.com/Permatex-8219...RS09FE7Q03SHSS
Do your VANOS rebuild at the same time if you haven't already.
Yep.Quote:
Originally Posted by anandoc
I need to rebuild the vanos on my car so bad, the low end torque is non existent
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Quote:
Originally Posted by anandoc
I don't think I'm experiencing any of the issues of failing VANOS seals, but I guess if I'm in there...Quote:
Originally Posted by Sreten
Yup, never done the VCG before. Seems premature to fail at 55k miles, but the gasket is going on 12 years old at this point. Are you talking about a complete kit like this(?):Quote:
Originally Posted by Sockethead
Attachment 30524
Source: https://www.ecstuning.com/b-genuine-...1120030496kt2/
Part no. 11120030496 (valve cover) and (15x) 11121437395 (rubber seal)
Also, black silicone sealant. Can you steer me in the right direction? Something like this(?):
https://www.amazon.com/Permatex-8218...s=rtv+silicone
Or this, haha. Beat me to it!Quote:
Originally Posted by Sreten
To Recap: These are the parts I need so far for a VCG replacement and a VANOS seals replacement:
- (1x) Valve cover gasket (VCG) and (2x) gaskets for the spark plugs. Comes as a kit under part no. 11120030496
- (15x) rubber seals for valve cover bolts (part no. 11121437395, or as a part of a kit from 11120030496).
- (1x) VANOS piston seals: purchase from Beisan Systems (part no. BS001, link: http://www.beisansystems.com/products)
- Black/gray silicone: https://www.amazon.com/Permatex-8219...RS09FE7Q03SHSS
Reading through the Beisan Systems guide for the VANOS seals (link), it seems I there are some additional parts to consider. There was a similar thread here on ZHP Mafia from six years ago (link), but I'd like to make sure I'm up to date. Any help on identifying which parts I'll need and preferred brands would be greatly appreciated:
- (1x) VANOS gasket (part no. 11361433817)
- (2x) VANOS oil hose/pipe washer (32411093596)
Items listed I don't think I'll need:
- (1x) Oil fill neck gasket (11127526447)
- (2x) VANOS piston bolt (11361748745)
- (4x) Engine cover bolt/nut cap (11121726089)
- (1x) Fan shroud rivet (17111712963)
- (4x) Engine cover pad (11121730352)
Finally, am I missing anything? In that previous ZHP Mafia thread, Dane mentions banjo bolts, but I'm not sure where that's relevant. Should I replace the VANOS oil line or is this going full mission creep? Again, any and all info is greatly appreciated!
Don't forget the vanos oil feed line and crush washers for it
Part number for line below;
11361705532
Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G920A using Tapatalk
Thanks! Brand preference? A Rein kit is listed for $30 on FCP (link), but BMW is $70 (although $50 at ECS).Quote:
Originally Posted by Vas
Rein is fine.Quote:
Originally Posted by BMWCurves
Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G920A using Tapatalk
Quote:
Originally Posted by Vas
I used the REIN kit. It even came with the 4 crush washers.Quote:
Originally Posted by BMWCurves
Actually, I have used REIN for all hoses on my car - power steering, VANOS, cooling system - and they have held up so far.
I've done few Vanos jobs and I'll jump in with some suggestions.
Get a torque wrench if you don't have it. I snapped 2 bolts my first time and wasted another hour running to the store for tools and getting them out.
VANOS piston bolt (11361748745) - get 2 of these as they are so easy to break.
VANOS oil hose/pipe washer (32411093596) - You don't have to get a new Vans oil line if the current one is not leaking. Just 2 crush washers.
I would also suggest you get Rattle Repair Kit. If you rev the engine between 1800 - 3000 rpm you should hear the rattle coming from the Vanos. Every M54 engine I came across had this.
Sounds like this:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zAyQBiV5GbI
Your engine is still pretty low on miles but try this. Both my ZHP and 530i had this rattle which was gone once I installed rebuilt unit.
Other than annoyance, the bearing rattle shouldn't affect Vanos performance, but it's one of those things while you in there.
I always went for a rebuilt unit from Dr. Vanos simply because it saves so much time. It's around $150 more for Dr. Vanos vs the parts, but with a already rebuilt unit I can probably finish everything in about 3 hours whereas rebuild project would probably take half a day or more. You also need an impact wrench, swivel vise and soft vise jaws for the rattle repair.
But, if you have free time, want to do it yourself and know how it's done while saving a few bucks, go for it!
Great, thanks!Quote:
Originally Posted by anandoc
Thanks for the info! I'll have to check, but I'm 95% sure my car doesn't have that rattle. If I went the Dr. VANOS route, I have a couple of questions:Quote:
Originally Posted by Sreten
- Their website says it fixes the rattle, but it makes no mention of using parts to fix the issue like the similar anti-rattle kit from Beisan Systems. They say it is solved simply by using the new VANOS seals, similar to the Beisan Systems. So my question is: did you install the Beisan Systems anti-rattle kit into the rebuilt Dr. VANOS unit, or was the Dr. VANOS unit on its own sufficient to eliminate the VANOS rattle?
- They say the core cost is $150 and current cost is $450, so total once my VANOS core is received and processed by Dr. VANOS is $300 out the door, correct?
- Is it preferable to send them my unit and just allow for the downtime in terms of keeping the original parts? I'm more inclined to have my original VANOS than some other used unit, but maybe that's just being silly.
definitely a good idea as the bolts are really low torque spec.Quote:
Originally Posted by Sreten
weird. i've only heard it on one (out of maybe 10 M54s i've worked on), and fortunately it wasn't one of mine!Quote:
Originally Posted by Sreten
i think the kit from beisan systems is $60 - much cheaper. the job is not hard at all, just a little tedious. the last one i did was anando's, i think it was about 1.5hrs?Quote:
Originally Posted by BMWCurves
From Dr. Vanos website.
"Each dual vanos is fully rebuilt using modified bearings along with high-performance Viton O-rings and Teflon seals that will not only eliminate the vanos rattle, but also restore lost power due to worn out internals."
"In addition, we rebuild the internal bearings to eliminate the 'marbles in a tin can' noises."
So yes, they use similar anti-rattle kit if not the same. I just bolted on the unit from Dr. Vanos and the rattle was gone. I used their Vanos 2 times, on my ZHP and 530i.
$300 + shipping out the door. $150 is core deposit that gets refunded to you once you send them your old unit. You will get a shipping label in the box for your old Vanos.
You'll have to check with them, but I think that's doable. Just like you said, more down time.
I had a bunch of M54's when I was wheelin' & dealin' and all had that rattle, some more some less. I just stopped paying attention to it.Quote:
Originally Posted by slater
I agree, seals itself are not that hard and if you just want to do that and not the bearings, then definitely get a kit from Beisan.Quote:
Originally Posted by slater
From Beisan - seals kit is $60, anti rattle bearings $60 plus Soft Vise Jaw Liners $15 = $135 total and satisfaction of doing it yourself. ;)
I'll get one spare VANOS bolt I think. Doubt I'd snap both since I have a micro torque wrench on hand.
Yup, $60 for the seals kit. It would save me a good chunk of change compared to the Dr. VANOS rebuilt unit, and I'm not particularly worried about doing it myself. It's if I now think it's worth doing the anti-rattle kit, which I would much rather not do myself. Definitely something to think about.Quote:
Originally Posted by slater
Completely missed that :facepalm Appreciate you going to check the website yourself!Quote:
Originally Posted by Sreten
Some days I think I'm dyslexic, but can't be bothered to get tested. The ol' "I've made it this far..."
I know you always go above and beyond with your ZHP and that's why I mentioned it.
It's not a must, it doesn't affect performance and if you don't have the rattle maybe you should leave it alone.
I was in the same spot as you and I did so much research on this subject when I was deciding what to do with my 530i that it drove me crazy.
My first auto ZHP had 117k miles and had this rattle. I decided to do just the seals and while you could feel improvement in performance, the rattle was still there.
For my 530i I decided to pull the trigger on Dr. Vanos. Just one of those things where I didn't want to think about it down the road and having to come back and do it again.
Went for a 45 min spirited drive + some errands that required stop/start city driving. Not a hint of smoke. Despite that, the VCG and VANOS seals are now on the "near future" maintenance list
Yeah, appreciate it. I went out and revved it slowly from idle up to 3500 RPM while parked. No rattle I could hear beyond the usual valve chatter. I'll probably just go with the seals only, but I would kick myself if it began to rattle a little while after I did the VANOS seals.Quote:
Originally Posted by Sreten
Mileage: 56,326 miles
Installed a used UUC Corsa TSE3 catback exhaust
Part no. 14551-2-SS. Link to manufacturer's website: http://store.uucmotorwerks.com/corsa...--325-p84.aspx
After "helping" Daniel install his UUC TSE3 (link) and hearing how good it sounded, I decided I'd look for one of my own. It wasn't high on my priority list since exhausts for our cars are usually quite expensive and don't offer a lot (if any) improvement in performance increases over the stock unit. However, just a few days after I began looking, I found what I thought was a used UUC Corsa TSE3 catback being sold on Craigslist by a guy at Mostly German Auto Recycling Inc near the Canadian border for a very good price (link). It came from a part out 330Ci coupe w/ 118k miles that was either a ZHP or a Canadian M-Sport from pictures, but couldn't confirm via VIN. The part out car had been rear ended but the exhaust looked okay. I decided the price was too good to pass up, so after talking with the seller and seeing photos, I purchased it despite probably not installing it until the summer.
The parts arrived mid-November and seemed to be in good shape (link). After inspection they were put away in storage. Fast forward to yesterday when the BMW exhaust gaskets arrived (part no. 18107502346), I decided to tackle the install. I had only planned to see if I could remove the bolts that connect the down pipe to the exhaust solely using PB blaster and if that didn't work I'd go to Home Depot and pick up a propane torch to heat those suckers.
I used two guides for the install:
- Corsa's installation guide: http://corsaperformance.com/media/pd...ll/INS5132.pdf
- This DIY guide: http://www.my330i.com/mod38.php
I got the car up on jack stands and soaked the four 15mm exhaust bolts with PB Blaster. I let it soak in for about 15 minutes and repeated this process two more times. I got out the breaker bar and gave the bolts some love. All four bolts came off without much trouble. The car being a PacNWer its entire life and only 56k miles definitely helped. From there I worked my way back, removing the 13mm bolts along the exhaust channel. I ended up leaving one of the cross brace bolts in the transmission housing because I couldn't quite get it out of the way. Not an issue, just odd.
Once I had all of the bolts off except the four rear 13mm bolts holding the rubber hangers in place (that hold the muffler), I put a jack underneath the exhaust near where the exhaust meets the down pipe. I removed the last four bolts and gently lowered the whole exhaust system down and slid it out from under the car. Looked to be in great shape:
http://i.imgur.com/X8EExH5.jpg
From there I pulled all of the UUC TSE3 segments out from storage and put them in the garage (it had been disassembled for shipping). Reassembly took some work. The female connection points had been clamped closed so they had to be bent back open so that the male portions of the exhaust could fit properly. Once they were all opened I liberally spread some Loctite C5-A/LB 8008 (copper-based anti-seize compound) on all mating surfaces and connected the parts together and then tightened the clamps most of the way down (they would need to be adjusted later). I had to transfer over the center brace and rubber components from the stock exhaust to the UUC exhaust which was simple enough. I had noticed earlier that the rear-most hanger looked bent, especially since the rubber hanger was bent (B is the position it arrived in, A is what looked correct to me) and had floated that question earlier to other members (link):
http://i.imgur.com/9ta707J.jpg
I wouldn't know how it fit until I installed the exhaust and could test fit the muffler. So I basically worked in reverse order, first sliding on the two new BMW exhaust gaskets (part no. 18107502346) onto the down pipe exhaust bolts, then the exhaust, followed by the little u-bracket, and finally screwed on the nuts. Following that I attempted to install the muffler section. I found that the metal muffler hanger was indeed bent since the rubber hanger would not match up to the threads in the bumper on that side. I lowered it and bend it back into shape with a big ol' pipe wrench and the bar out of the floor jack for added leverage. I put it back up and screwed it into place with the help from my father.
Next I used the jack to lift the center section brace and secured the brace with the original bolts. Afterwards I torqued the exhaust nuts to spec (40 ft-lbs), followed by the same for the exhaust clamps. I did my best to shift the middle segment of piping so the spacing was equal between it and the two sections on either end. With the clamps torqued down, I installed the last cross brace, and inspected everything for clearance and appearance. I think everything looks right. There is one section where the exhaust might bump the heat shield. I might go back and see if I can hammer some of it out of the way, but it's not too big a deal. Shitty pic of it all installed:
http://i.imgur.com/eIXcaMG.jpg
All buttoned up and I gave it a start. My dad laughed. My reaction:
http://i.imgur.com/srkeP9R.gif
I didn't get the car off the jack stands because I plan to do a coolant flush today and am considering swapping out my transmission mounts for M3 ones I have on hand, so I didn't get a chance to drive it. I also didn't rev the engine much because I finished the install after 11 PM i.e. I didn't want to annoy the neighbors.
All said and done, not too difficult of an install. I was very lucky that PB Blaster and a breaker bar is all I needed for the exhaust bolts/nuts. It also definitely helped that I had my father to help me maneuver the stock exhaust out and the TSE3 into place. I still have to check for vacuum leaks.
I opted not to swap out my guibo or CSB because I didn't order the parts (which I use as an excuse because really I'm just being lazy). Not that my car particularly needed those parts replaced, just that I was already in there with the exhaust off.
Can't wait to drive this thing and hear it.
EDIT: First, a cold-start video:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=a9x5j3U0KFM
Now that I've driven the car for a little while with the UUC TSE3 installed (with a GruppeM intake), here are a few of my thoughts so far (07/27/2017):
- Start up: Start up is definitely louder than stock, and I'm sure it'll be even louder in colder weather. You could not make an inconspicuous get away in the middle of the night with this exhaust. After starting the car and warming up, the exhaust will become quieter at idle, almost stock. You can hear this in the above video.
- Volume: The TSE3 is much louder than the stock exhaust. Above 2,500 rpm with any significant throttle input, you know you have a different exhaust. Oddly, to my ears, the volume sort of peaks at about 4,500 RPM and then sort of levels out above that. Just cruising along on flat ground at a constant speed, the exhaust is only slightly louder than the stock exhaust, similar enough not to forget you have a different exhaust. If you're going up an incline at highway speeds it is probably 10-15% louder than stock. At wide open throttle (WOT) though, it is loud.
- Exhaust note: It is coarser, and somewhat less refined than the stock exhaust. That's not a negative necessarily, just depends what you're looking for in an exhaust note. It is a much deeper sound, almost a bark vs a higher pitched "whine" of the stock exhaust. Sounds racier.
- Drone: Pretty much nonexistent. You hear the exhaust a little more than stock at highway speeds, but really not much and it does not drone in the classical sense. You're just a little more aware of the engine, mostly so if you're going up an incline as stated earlier.
- Crackles, burbles, pops: I didn't notice this much on Daniel's exhaust when I rode in his car, but mine definitely pops and burbles and crackles when the engine is at very little or off throttle at low RPMs (<1,500 RPM). I noticed this most when the MPG gauge reads ~50 MPG, when the ECU is feeding the engine just little bits of gas to keep it going.
- Weight savings: When installing the exhaust, it definitely weighed a little less than the stock exhaust, but how much I couldn't say. UUC states the TSE3 is "substantially lighter than the original exhaust" (link), but I've never found literature that gives a numerical value to that claim. I'd guess maybe 20 lbs lighter than the stock exhaust at best.
- Open vs. closed windows: I'm not sure if my "custom" added insulation to my car has really worked (link) or if the cabin was that good at insulating sound to begin with, but the exhaust is much quieter with the windows rolled up than down. The TSE3 is still appreciably louder than the stock exhaust with the windows up, but the volume is not overwhelming or obnoxious, and sounds great under acceleration.
- Current overall opinion: I'm torn, but it's growing on me and I'm becoming used to it. I love the sound, it's the right level of aggressive but not too unrefined. I like the crackles and burbles although it seems a little juvenile. The volume is what I am still having issues with. I'm not the type of person that wants an overly loud "look at me, bro" exhaust that makes people turn heads and think *look at this ass clown.* For the most part, this exhaust isn't that, but I do wish it were a little quieter in the lower RPMs, say below 3,000. I just don't enjoy being almost self conscious about the noise I produce, although I have yet to notice anyone really turn their head toward my car when I drive by, even when I'm driving moderately spiritedly. What's interesting is that so far I haven't told any of my friends that I've replaced the exhaust and not one of them have asked if something is different about the car. So for now, I'll keep it on. We'll see how I feel in the future.
Good job and awesome details as always!
TSE3 is one of the best upgrades for a ZHP. It sounds so good. Worth every penny!
I had the light version and can't imagine having a ZHP without it.
Does the Corsa retain the "rumble" at lower RPMs? It seems to be more aggressive throughout the range, though I would like to hear it first hand.
You should've sat in BP's or my car at the reunion last year. To answer your question, I think the exhaust does have a rumble at lower rpmQuote:
Originally Posted by holyc0w
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
There is no rumble at low rpm, at least by my definition. There is, however, a deep bass when you blip the throttle. You do occasionally get some burble as well on decel, though it isn't consistent as to when. Usually when it's very hot out, and occasionally in the winter.
Sent from my Pixel using Tapatalk
This is awesome!! I bet you can't wait to take the car off the jack stands and go for a spirited drive.
From all the videos I have watched online, I really want this exhaust for my ride one day...
Thanks! I finally got it off jack stands today and got to drive it a bit. Windows up it's definitely louder than before, but not that much louder in the cabin. Windows down though, and it screams. I can't decide if it's too much, but I figured I'd drive with it for a while to figure out how I feel.Quote:
Originally Posted by Sreten
It definitely has some rumble at low RPMs. At idle it's quiet, but below 2k it quietly rumbles, growls, and occasionally pops. You're right though, you have to hear it in person to really tell. YouTube videos don't do it justice since they're usually recorded on phones i.e. not great mics, and each one sounds a bit different. I think mine sounds different from Daniel's, which is the only other car I've heard with it in person.Quote:
Originally Posted by holyc0w
Agreed.Quote:
Originally Posted by san
Yeah, I think definitions differ on "rumble." Exhausts are pretty subjective in general. What's far to loud for one is whisper quiet to another. But so far I agree with your assessment, especially on the intermittent burble that is not consistent.Quote:
Originally Posted by az3579
Yeah, I finally got it off this afternoon and took it for a drive. So far I'm loving it. It sounds so aggressive, but right.Quote:
Originally Posted by anandoc
Hopefully you'll find one soon!
Mileage: 56,326 miles
Installed E46 M3 transmission mounts
I ordered the transmission mounts (part no. 22322282340) way back last March but never got a chance to install them. I wish I had done them while I had the exhaust out last night, but c'est la vie. It wasn't too difficult. I generally followed this DIY:
http://www.bmw330ci.net/projects/transmounts.php
Instead of taking out the whole support brace with the transmission mounts, I took off the support brace first and then the mounts. It gave me more room to maneuver. Once I had the mounts out, I compared them to my M3 mounts and honestly, they're not very different than the stock ones that came with the car. The M3 mounts are slightly thicker top to bottom by about 2-3mm, but I chalk that up to compression over time. They also have about 1/2" longer thread than the stock mounts. Other than that, they seemed pretty much the same. I went and looked at RealOEM and compared part numbers (the ZHP part number is 22316799331), and on ECS, both part numbers fit an E46 330Ci and an M3, so I'm not sure what the difference is, really.
Old on the left, E46 M3 on the right:
http://i.imgur.com/CBehSd8.jpg
The transmission brace removed and the transmission supported by the floor jack. You can see the bolt I couldn't remove from the transmission that held the exhaust bracket in place. Shouldn't be an issue:
http://i.imgur.com/e2HwCse.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/8J8oghU.jpg
I swapped out the parts and reinstalled without too much issue. Mostly just working around the exhaust to tighten down the transmission brace.
Coolant flush
The coolant was over two years old so I figured it was due. Simple enough, just followed this guide:
http://www.bmw330ci.net/maintenance/coolant.php
After draining I replaced the crush washer on the engine block coolant drain plug (part no. 07119963200) and took my time filling the system with a little less than a gallon of BMW coolant (part no. 82141467704) and a little less than a gallon of distilled water until coolant came out the bleeder screw. Once that was done, I tightened up the top and took the car off the stands and took it for a 30 minute drive.
The car ran great, minus what I assume is some burnt oil I could smell from the leaking VCG. I had better order those parts (sigh). I turned on the 19.7 feature on the OBC so I could see the exact coolant temp. The temperature fluctuated between 93-98 degrees but never went above once warm. The exhaust was intoxicating. I didn't notice any real difference with the new transmission mounts, but maybe I need some more time to notice.
Overall, knocked off some more maintenance. Still more to go.
Guess you guys have very different definitions of 'rumble'. lol
I'm thinking of the vibration you get in the car...