The one covering the cabin air filter?Quote:
Originally Posted by BADCLOWN
Printable View
The one covering the cabin air filter?Quote:
Originally Posted by BADCLOWN
The only thing I can think of that matches that description is the cabin filter cover... but that doesn't cover the wiper motors.Quote:
Originally Posted by BADCLOWN
Have a pic?
I guess it’s the cabin filter cover, I couldn’t find anything on ECS but was able to finally find it searching that. Thanks
I will be doing some preventative maintenance soon- new water pump and thermostat. I have a container of the green 50/50 premixed coolant from Advanced Auto in my garage already. Do you guys think it's worth the extra $22 to buy the BMW coolant (blue, I believe) from FCP Euro instead for my ZHP?
https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/bmw...ze-82141467704
yes, ONLY use BMW coolant. it's actually as cheap as the generic stuff from the auto parts store.Quote:
Originally Posted by Yankeefan
+1
After a proper flush with DI water, 1 jug will be plenty I think (you need to dilute it 50/50 with DI water, so you will get twice the coolant volume)
I feel like my AC is blowing musty air. Is there a cleaner I can use to spray in behind the cabin filter? need a new one of those too so a suggestion for one would be appreciated.
I chose the Mann Frecious Plus Cabin Air Filter for its added "features"; didn't break the bank at $27!Quote:
Originally Posted by joeybananaz18
https://www.fcpeuro.com/products?utf...ds=64319257504
I've used BG Frigi-Fresh spray. Nextzett Klima-Cleaner does a good job, too.
https://www.autogeek.net/1z-einszett...freshener.html
Ordered. Thanks John. Anything else I should look to take care of while I’m in and around that area?Quote:
Originally Posted by John in VA
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Might also be mildew on the evaporator... I've used this on my last e46. You have to spray it directly into the system under the dash through one of the vents.
https://www.autogeek.net/wuachesytr6...SABEgJ8vvD_BwE
I have the same problem. So you just spray it into one of the footwell air vents? do you have to remove any panels to get to the evaporator?
Also my A/C is leaking, and the leak does not show up with a UV dye test. I have replaced the compressor, expansion valve, receiver/dryer, schrader valves... where else could the leak be coming from?
It was a long time ago so I'm not sure but I think I sprayed it in one of the vents in the passenger footwell.
Not necessarily about my ZHP, but this could apply to any car, really.
Anyone heard of front struts starting the "bounce" one day and be totally fine the next day? I thought once shocks/struts start the "bounce" they're toast and there's no going back until replaced. It was single digit temps the day my touring starting bouncing pretty badly in the front, which was on Monday. But yesterday, temps in the high 20's and today, in the 30's, it's totally fine, as though nothing ever happened. Weird...
That is weird... perhaps there is more stiction with the shock oil with the colder temps
You know the really weird part about it was that I was driving it for the first half of the day without incident. Temps didn't really change much during the day. I went to Chili's to get lunch, then when I got out, it all of a sudden was bouncing like a child in a bouncy castle. It was so sudden...Quote:
Originally Posted by Sockethead
Has anyone done rear wheel bearings? There is an OEM installation kit on eBay for $150. I would rather buy a more universal tool, but if this would make life easier I can roll with it. I guess I could rent it out as well.
What would the mafia do? OEM tool or Harbor freight kit?
Paging @Slater for confirmation, but I believe he said having the right tool makes doing the rear wheel bearings significantly less shitty.Quote:
Originally Posted by DeathTrap
that's my hope - i did one on my black Touring without job-specific tools and it was very shitty.Quote:
Originally Posted by 704sw
now that i have one to do on the 335i, i bought a couple of tools to aid in the process. i spent about $200 on tools alone, but if i'm correct then the job should take 1 night instead of 3.
it was one of the least fun wrenching experiences of my life.
if all goes well with the 335i then i'll do a brief how-to write up on it. the process is basically the same between E46 and E90.
Ehhhh...I feel that my time is a little bit more valuable than a few bucks. I won the tool. If anyone needs it, I'll post up a rent thread after I test it out.Quote:
Originally Posted by slater
FCP just posted this on why tires lose pressure. I didn't know it was normal for tires to lose one lb per month in constant temp weather.
https://blog.fcpeuro.com/why-your-ti...sing-pressure?
#TMYK
Yup, rubber isn't perfectly air tight so there will always be a few oxygen molecules sneaking through with time.Quote:
Originally Posted by ELCID86
More headlight fun. I completely took apart the assembly and redid the wiring.
Now installed, the passenger side won’t go up as high as it used to. I’ve taken off and rechecked assembly of both the headlight assembly and the way it was mounted to the car.
Here’s a photo of each side, with both maxed out as high up they’ll point.
I’m not really sure what else to check. Is it possible to manually adjust the motor that adjusts the vertical aim? Maybe I moved it whole reassembling.
Attachment 34670
iPhone shadow on driver side.
Did you inadvertently disconnect/break the plastic rod thingie (under the car) that raises the light?Quote:
Originally Posted by stephenkirsh
This is a halogen car. It doesn’t have that and those aren’t a part of the equation. It’s 100% limited to the headlight assembly and the internals.
did you make sure the actual headlight housings are mounted the same on both sides? that one of your housings isnt doing that weird thing where it did not slide into the mounting bracket on the core support properly? if the actual housing is off even a little, then that will throw your adjustment knobs off also and not match evenly between both sides.Quote:
Originally Posted by stephenkirsh
A PM question!
Anyone had a fuel pump of fuel filter failure that left you stranded?
I’m at about 175K with the originals and may want to take a long road trip this summer. I’m thinking this may be a good time to at least replace the filter before the drive but, don’t know the expected life on the fuel pump!
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
The fuel pump is one of those that could last anywhere from 50k to 300k. Mine thankfully started soft failing with a little stutter while holding a steady rpm on the highway, so I swapped it out and added the M3 fuel tank baffle at the same time.Quote:
Originally Posted by 3ZHPGUY
I bought a backup fuel pump to keep in the trunk of the wife's car on trips as the swap can be done in a parking lot, which is where they're known to leave you when they decide to check out.
Quote:
Originally Posted by 3ZHPGUY
I've had a fuel pump quit on me once while on the way to somewhere. But, I have "the force" and had a feeling I should order one and keep it in the trunk just in case, considering I had 192k miles on the car at the time. Sure enough, it quit on me. Pulled into a rest stop, had a friend pick me up to go to my event, and replaced the pump on site when on the way home.
Fuel filters probably won't leave you stranded, but it may cause some driveability issues or CELs.
If you haven't replaced your fuel pump yet at this mileage, then I would recommend you buy one and at least keep it in the car. You can replace it roadside with basic tools. Also buy the gasket as well.
Thanks!Quote:
Originally Posted by az3579
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
I’d go ahead and do it. But BP’s suggestion is a close second.
Love that story, BTW. Pretty sure that besides putting on new wipers, a FP is the easiest maint item on these cars.Quote:
Originally Posted by az3579
I can think of some easier things... The cabin air filter, for example!Quote:
Originally Posted by Karl Lazlo
And the SAP hoses, those are easy too. No tools required. :)
What about the vacuum line to the SAP valve that goes towards the firewall? I haven't looked hard at it, but the valve end is crumbling.Quote:
Originally Posted by az3579
Not sure which one you're referring to... got a pic?Quote:
Originally Posted by John in VA
This is not my photo, but the hose runs from the valve along the passenger's side of the valve cover towards the firewall. The ETK makes you believe it's a short length of vacuum hose - not sure how easy to replace - might need a mirror to see it! If the front/visible portion is crumbling I can't imagine what the back section looks like!Quote:
Originally Posted by az3579
Attachment 34674
#4 in the diagram:
Attachment 34676
The zhp doesn't have that vacuum line.
Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using Tapatalk
I was going to say, I don't remember seeing that line when I eliminated the SAP and valve
Good to know! This is on the 2000 328i.Quote:
Originally Posted by Vas
My original fuel pump died at 150k miles while the car was in my driveway!Quote:
Originally Posted by 3ZHPGUY
It shorted out and was popping fuses.
Definitely replace yours to be safe or keep a spare.
I pretty much replace parts now before they quit working and have been replacing all of the plastic crap parts with metal versions of the same part to significantly increase the reliability of this car.
Yeah I don't recall seeing it on my ZHP and another ZHP I was working on last week either.Quote:
Originally Posted by Sockethead