Has anyone replaced a windshield gasket/seal before? How difficult was it? I noticed today the one on my old man’s E60 where the roof meets the windshield is drying out.
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Has anyone replaced a windshield gasket/seal before? How difficult was it? I noticed today the one on my old man’s E60 where the roof meets the windshield is drying out.
My first e90 has the same issue since 2010. I believe that's a cosmetic part, I never replaced it. No side effects due to my lack of action. That car is still in my family so I'm positive it's ok.
Pretty sure you have to replace the windshield when you do that one.Quote:
Originally Posted by 704sw
If you're talking about the actual seal, then yeah gotta take out the windshield to replace. But if it's just the cosmetic rubber portion on top like the E90 then you can replace that. I would just be careful on it. I was doing it on my parents E90. I got it like 90% of the way in then bam windshield cracked lol FML right there. But drove that around for a couple months before the car got totaled so I never had to replace the windshield.
Yea it’s just the cosmetic “seal.” Your story has me reconsidering doing it since it’s not *that* bad yet.Quote:
Originally Posted by sillieidiot
I know these pictures don't tell the whole story, but I've got this residue on the front of the engine as you can see. Is there any chance this could be a slow, long-term coolant leak? I ask because I think I have a slow leak, and I have a water pump and thermostat sitting in my garage waiting for me to install. Or is this more likely VANOS or VCG or something? You can see that it's a dark residue (shown here as wiped off with a blue shop rag). Thanks team.
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Check your power steering hoses too. Judging by the residue pattern on your thermostat housing, it looks like it's getting flung up from below.
Is this a ZHP or a ZHP conversion of some sort? The dash dials are orange, but the dash is not typical ZHP. The same goes for the steering wheel. I tried to run the VIN, but the decoder did not give me any output using that number. I'm not interested in the car, just curious.
https://www.cargurus.com/Cars/invent...ting=223535119
https://www.mdecoder.com/decode/km33207 says it has S767A Performance Package.Quote:
Originally Posted by wstr75
Not an e46/ZHP question so I'm totes breaking the rules here, but it is a random ass question.
I'm going to look at a 2013 335is this weekend (because I hate myself) and the girl at the dealership grabbed a few pics before they washed it. This stuff was written on the rear quarter glass. Anyone know BMW dealership processing secrets enough to know what it means (@Sockethead)? It's an N54 engine, so I assume there's something about wastegate rattle in there...
Attachment 34690
The ZHP wasn't requiring frequent enough maintenance, huh?
Pretty muchQuote:
Originally Posted by DeathTrap
I drove Peterman's 335i Mtech a few months back and haven't stopped thinking about the low end torque on that N54 and how solid & modern the car felt. The best description I've seen is that the torque on the N54 and N55 comes on so early that it feels like a naturally aspirated V8.
I want
Wife said it looks like the bottom right column might be what they have into the car. They usually fix what ever is broken before selling it.Quote:
Originally Posted by ZHPizza
Every dealer is different though could mean something entirely different.
Is it a BMW dealership?
Good call. It had some little "w" looking marks on different areas of the car too - maybe spots they wanted to hit with touch up or pdr?Quote:
Originally Posted by Sockethead
It's at Century BMW over in Greenville SC
Ok get them to do a key read for the service records.
It should at least show the service done over the life of the factory warranty. If the car was serviced there after that, it will have that additional service record
Noice thanks brotherQuote:
Originally Posted by Sockethead
BTW, don't let anyone scare you away from the N54. It's an amazing engine, I'd rather have an N54 than an N55
So I get this sound when I pressed the AC button (which I guess turns on the compressor?) its like a creaky, cyclical type sound that is only present when the AC button is pressed. This video is exactly what i'm experiencing.
https://youtu.be/nPqA7dLhaVo
Lots of posts on e46F suggest the blower motor assembly, which to me doesn't make sense if the noise disappears when the AC button is off. Another post suggested low refrigerant but my AC is still cold. Someone else suggested the AC expansion valve (https://www.ecstuning.com/b-rein-par...503452759~ren/).
What do you all in the mafia think?
Set it on hella cold and see if there is a difference between the temp of the left and right center vents. If not, then compare the driver and passenger side vents nearest the windows. When the refrigerant gets low, the passenger side vent stops cooling first and then it spreads to the passenger side of the center vent, and so on.Quote:
Originally Posted by JPMo
Interesting, I'll definitely try that. Thanks!Quote:
Originally Posted by ZHPizza
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You know, I think the passenger side vents are slightly warmer but its not much. I think I might do the valve and take it in for some fresh freon. The valve isn't too expensiveQuote:
Originally Posted by ZHPizza
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? The passenger side will be less cold if you've got it set on max a/c. I'm talking temperature set to 60, roller on the center vent set to full cold. It's gotta be reasonably warm out to test the a/c though.Quote:
Originally Posted by JPMo
I just listened to the video again and confirmed with all the comments underneath that it's the typical low refrigerant sound. You can top it off yourself with some r134a.
Though if it's low, you've probably got a leak and should get that looked at.Quote:
Originally Posted by ZHPizza
hmm, could it be possible that the AC expansion valve is leaking? Also I'm pretty sure its the original refrigerant from 2004 so is a little bit of loss not expected?Quote:
Originally Posted by az3579
Yeah oops, I meant that my passenger side was slightly warmer but it was about 45-50 out so not the best test. Thanks. I think I will get a refrigerant flush soon because that noise is annoying.Quote:
Originally Posted by ZHPizza
Quote:
Originally Posted by JPMo
Dunno. Never had to do AC service on mine; all original on mine as well, 314k miles. I'm shocked. lol
Honestly, and a few people will flip the f out for me suggesting it, I'd throw in a can of this stop leak/dye and maybe one whole can of this r134a.Quote:
Originally Posted by JPMo
Interdynamics IDQ Automotive A/C... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000CO9IBG...p_mob_ap_share
3 Cans R-134a DuPont Suva A/C... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00WXBYYR4...p_mob_ap_share
This stuff isn't like your grandpa's stop-leak that was basically concrete made to plug pinhole leaks in radiators and shit. It's just a dye (to help you find the leaks) and a rubber conditioner (to help shrunken seals swell back up). I've now used it on four 10+ year old cars, including both of my e46's, with great results.
If it's a leak due to an old shrunken o-ring, then this will fix it. If it's a leak due to a hole in your evaporator, then this will help you find it.
When I replace my water pump and thermostat, what is the proper way to drain all of the current coolant? From the bottom of the radiator? Also, the vehicle currently has green coolant, and I will be replacing that with BOM coolant (blue?) from FCP Euro. How crucial is it that I get every drop of the old stuff out? If there's a little bit left will they mix and do something weird? Seems like I've read somewhere that if you mix different colors of coolant then they will gunk up.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Yankeefan
Drain the radiator as well as the block. There is a drain plug for coolant directly on the block, on the passenger side above the front axle.
http://www.zhpmafia.com/forums/ajax.php
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Only use BMW coolant. It's not a problem if there are "few drops" of the old stuff in there; as long as it's not a considerable amount you're fine.
Be sure to mix the BMW coolant 50/50 with distilled water as it's not pre-mixed.
https://www.google.com/url?sa=i&rct=...50949557220113
I'm not familiar with BOM coolant, but pulling the lower radiator hose with get most coolant out. You could reattach the hose, add distilled water or coolant flush (Liqui Moly makes some), run it awhile & drain it again as per instructions. BMW, M-B, the proper Zerex (G05 or G48) or Rowe coolant is fine. Green Prestone won't cause any problems mixed as DexCool would.
Yes you can drain from the bottom of the radiator (the blue plastic screw), but this will not get the old stuff out of the block. You can actually release the bolt on the bottom of the block to get the old stuff from the block as well. Not sure how to describe its location, but you have to get under the block obviously. I found it pretty easily doing a quick search.
I would do a full on flush if I were you. It's annoying and tedious, but easy, and worth getting out all the incorrect coolant and any sediment that has built up. Buy a few gallon jugs of distilled or deionized water and run it through the engine a few times until the liquid you are draining out is relatively clear. Then put in the new blue stuff.
I have also read that you shouldn't mix different spec coolants. I would say try to get as much of it out as you can, but keep in mind you will never get 100% of it out, since there will always be a percentage left over in the block, no matter how many flushes you do.
I just did a flush on our VW. It has no petcock, so you actually have to actually undo the radiator hoses. PITA
Thanks for the advice guys. I’ll do a water flush then and get as much as I can out.
Where does everyone leave their phones in their cars? I don’t like leaving mine in the cup holder because that’s where cups go, and the spot inside in the armrest that’s meant for it is too small for any phone newer than an iPhone 5. I’ve been putting it in the compartment in the back of the rest but it’s fallen out into the back seat numerous times. I have the wire routed under my shift knob right now and I’m going to route it to somewhere usable once I get a new phone so I’m trying to decide where to create a dock for it.
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I use two phone cases. My kinda grippy silicone case I haven’t put a magnet on yet so I lay it horizontally as shown in red below (grippy is very important for that location). My other case has the magnet and it goes on my Bimmian mount (which is one of my favorite mods)Quote:
Originally Posted by ComradeNick
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...1316d66d6c.jpg
Hmm a mount might be a good idea, I already have an android head unit so I wouldn’t need the functionality of the mount but maybe a discrete one somewhere in the back could work.Quote:
Originally Posted by 704sw
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Bimmian mount
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I hardly drive with passengers so i just lay it sideways where the thigh support opens [emoji14]
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This is the most correct statement lol.Quote:
Originally Posted by 3LiterStraightSix
When I'm not dropping it in the passenger seat I use a vent mount.
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same lol sometimes i close the thigh support all the way and i wedge the phone in the thigh support seat cushion slit. keeps it from moving around.Quote:
Originally Posted by 3LiterStraightSix
DittoQuote:
Originally Posted by 3LiterStraightSix
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Originally Posted by 3LiterStraightSix
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Originally Posted by Fenrir
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Originally Posted by nextelbuddy
If you're not mounting it, why not just keep it in your pocket? lolQuote:
Originally Posted by PetesZ