I think sedans are easier to get in/out of. You can get the sedan doors open farther than those long ass coupe doors in the same amount of spaceQuote:
Originally Posted by ZHPizza
Printable View
I think sedans are easier to get in/out of. You can get the sedan doors open farther than those long ass coupe doors in the same amount of spaceQuote:
Originally Posted by ZHPizza
100%Quote:
Originally Posted by 704sw
Bruce told me about changing them a few years back. I’d say it’s not needed every time (as some ppl have never done them...) but perhaps every few changes.Quote:
Originally Posted by stephenkirsh
I'm seeing if any of y'all have opinions before I go ahead and purchase a new head unit. These are the three Eonons I'm looking at
1. GA9350~$300 and has the newest Android 9.0 pie with 2GB RAM.
2. GA9250B~$250 with the Android 8.1 Oreo and 2GB Ram.
3. GA9150B~$200 with the oldest of the three, Android 8.0 Oreo with 4GB RAM.
My main dilemma is that the older (and cheaper unit) has more RAM. I know technology ages really fast too so just not sure if I should get the newer one with less RAM or save some money and get the older unit that has double the RAM... any opinions would be appreciated. Thanks!
I'd say go for the newest one possible, 9.0 should be a direct upgrade as well as bt 5.0. I dont really see why you need a lot of ram, you wont really open more than 2 or 3 programs at once anyway.Quote:
Originally Posted by tomnobes
Sent from my SM-G973U using Tapatalk
Definitely double the RAM. Oreo isn't that old anyway; most Android apps still support even Android 6.
Sent from my Pixel 3 using Tapatalk
I’m planning to replace the front brakes on my zhp this weekend and I’m planning to use the 50s kid video as reference. I once helped a friend replace pads on his zhp few years ago but is there anything I should know before I jump in? Appreciate any tips!
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
I miss the 50skid videos, he just disappeared
When I did rotors and pads on mine, I found them no different than most of the cars on the planet! Hopefully a no surprises job for you
It's pretty straightforward. Might have some trouble pushing the piston back into the bore, but there's some tricks about for that.Quote:
Originally Posted by san
I was going to rent the brake caliper tool from auto zone. Anything else I might need?Quote:
Originally Posted by ZHPizza
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Thanks!Quote:
Originally Posted by pedro2u
Yup, his DIY videos are probably the best ones for our cars because he doesn’t have any fancy tools so we can relate to how he goes about doing things...
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
I would just use a big c-clamp if you have one. That's what I do. In fact, even before pulling off the caliper, a big screwdriver leveraged between the surface of the old pad (on the piston side of the rotor) and the rotor can usually easily push the piston all the way in. Makes the caliper easier to remove afterwards too
So when I've been starting my car recently I've noticed it kinda jumps when starting, as if all the fuel in the engine goes off at once instead of smoothly. No problems running or idling. Only thing is I recently had a system too lean code pop up, but I'm pretty sure thats b/c I didn't tighten the air box properly. Tightened the screw, cleared the code and it hasn't been back since.
TL;DR: is it normal for our cars to have rough starts?
Sent from my SM-G973U using Tapatalk
Just use a large c-clamp. I would leave the pad that is attached the to piston on so that you could use it as a contact point for the c-clamp to push the piston back. Other than that, maybe just use some liquid wrench on the hex bolt that holds the rotor. You could buy some extras of that if you end up stripping them somehow.Quote:
Originally Posted by san
I know most people take the guide pins off then take the caliper off, then the bracket. But I just take the entire thing with the bracket off in one go. it's a tiny bit more finicky to put the pad back on, but it still saves me a ton of the time not having to deal with aligning the pins back later. Although if you're only doing pads, then don't take the bracket off lol
Does anyone have a list of the options that can be programmed to our cars and the LCMs? Triple blink, brake force, etc
This is my list:Quote:
Originally Posted by BADCLOWN
Daytime Running Lights US GED_FL_ALS LSZ (aktiv) / nicht_aktiv Daytime Running Lights US Brightness DRL_DIMMUNG LSZ wert_01 / wert_02 / wert_03 / wert_04 Daytime Running Lights ECE TAGFAHRLICHT_ECE LSZ aktiv / (nicht_aktiv) Dimmed front corner lights as DRL DRL_BLK_VORN_GEDIMMT LSZ (nicht_aktiv) / aktiv Low beams as DRL DAUERFAHRLICHT_US LSZ (nicht_aktiv) / aktiv Bi-Xenon lights for flash-to-pass LH_MIT_BIX LSZ (nicht_aktiv) / aktiv Lights switch off on driver's door opening (LCM 4.7 only) SL_AUS_BEI_FA_TUER_AUF LSZ (nicht_aktiv) / aktiv Rear daytime running lights (LCM 4.0+) FL_DRL_MIT_RL LSZ (nicht_aktiv) / aktiv Front corner lights SIDEMARKER_US LSZ (aktiv) / nicht_aktiv Fog lights on with high beams (fog lights and high beams not on together) FL_UND_NSW_NICHT_GLEICHZ LSZ (aktiv) / nicht_aktiv Halogen high beams on with Xenon high beams PWM_WERT2_FL_BIXENON LSZ wert_01 / (wert_02) Hazard Light Behavior: BLINKIMPULS_WARNBLK LSZ wert_01 / (wert_02) / wert_03 / wert_04 One-touch blink turn signals (LCM 4.0+) CYCL_TI_BLK LSZ (einmal) / zweimal / dreimal / viermal / funfmal / sechsmal / siebenmal Cold testing of high beam bulbs (inside bowls) KALTUEBERWACHUNG_FL LSZ (aktiv) / nicht_aktiv Warm testing of high beam bulbs (inside bowls) WARMUEBERWACHUNG_FL LSZ (aktiv) / nicht_aktiv Cold testing of front turn signal bulbs KALTUEBERWACHUNG_BLK_VO LSZ (aktiv) / nicht_aktiv Warm testing of front turn signal bulbs WARMUEBERWACHUNG_BLK_VO LSZ (aktiv) / nicht_aktiv Cold testing of rear turn signal bulbs KALTUEBERWACHUNG_BLK_HI LSZ (aktiv) / nicht_aktiv Warm testing of rear turn signal bulbs WARMUEBERWACHUNG_BLK_HI LSZ (aktiv) / nicht_aktiv Cold testing of rear parking lights (left) KALTUEBERWACHUNG_SL_LI LSZ (aktiv) / nicht_aktiv Warm testing of rear parking light (left) WARMUEBERWACHUNG_SL_LI LSZ (aktiv) / nicht_aktiv Cold testing of rear parking light (right) KALTUEBERWACHUNG_SL_RE LSZ (aktiv) / nicht_aktiv Warm testing of rear parking light (right) WARMUEBERWACHUNG_SL_RE LSZ (aktiv) / nicht_aktiv Cold testing of brake lights KALTUEBERWACHUNG_BL LSZ (aktiv) / nicht_aktiv Warm testing of brake lights WARMUEBERWACHUNG_BL_MI LSZ (aktiv) / nicht_aktiv Brake lights replace burned turn signal BL_ERSETZT_DEFEKT_BLK LSZ aktiv / (nicht_aktiv) Brake force display (Stage 2 + 3) See E46 BFD tab LSZ Enable rear foglight (rear trunk parking light as rear fog) PWM_WERT2_ALS_SL_AUSGANG LSZ (wert_01) / wert_02 Rear left trunk parking light as fog STANDLICHT_ALS_NSL_LINKS LSZ (nicht_aktiv) / aktiv Rear right trunk parking light as fog STANDLICHT_ALS_NSL_RECHTS LSZ (nicht_aktiv) / aktiv Home Lights - Low beams HEIMLEUCHTEN_AL LSZ (aktiv) / nicht_aktiv Home Lights - Brake lights HEIMLEUCHTEN_BL LSZ (aktiv) / nicht_aktiv Home Lights - fog lights (front) HEIMLEUCHTEN_NSW LSZ aktiv / (nicht_aktiv)
BFD settings:
Function Description String Options (Default) BFD Stage 2 activation using Deceleration Sensor (Sensor 1?) BFD_SW1_STUFE2 (aktiv) / nicht_aktiv BFD Stage 2 activation using Deceleration Sensor (Sensor 2?) BFD_SW2_STUFE2 aktiv / (nicht_aktiv) BFD Stage 2 activation using ABS BFD_ABS_STUFE2 (aktiv) / nicht_aktiv BFD Stage 3 activation using Deceleration Sensor (Sensor 1?) BFD_SW1_STUFE3 aktiv / (nicht_aktiv) BFD Stage 3 activation using Deceleration Sensor (Sensor 2?) BFD_SW2_STUFE3 aktiv / (nicht_aktiv) BFD Stage 3 activation using ABS sensor BFD_ABS_STUFE3 aktiv / (nicht_aktiv) Outer tail lights blink during Stage 3 as well BLST1_BLST3 aktiv / (nicht_aktiv) To enable extra brake light on hard stops and blinking lights on ABS stops with additional lights, change the following settings: BFD Stage 2 activation using Deceleration Sensor (Sensor 1?) BFD_SW1_STUFE2 aktiv BFD Stage 2 activation using Deceleration Sensor (Sensor 2?) BFD_SW2_STUFE2 aktiv BFD Stage 2 activation using ABS BFD_ABS_STUFE2 nicht_aktiv BFD Stage 3 activation using Deceleration Sensor (Sensor 1?) BFD_SW1_STUFE3 nicht_aktiv BFD Stage 3 activation using Deceleration Sensor (Sensor 2?) BFD_SW2_STUFE3 nicht_aktiv BFD Stage 3 activation using ABS sensor BFD_ABS_STUFE3 aktiv Outer tail lights blink during Stage 3 as well BLST1_BLST3 aktiv To enable flashing brake lights on hard stops and onward, change the following settings: BFD Stage 2 activation using Deceleration Sensor (Sensor 1?) BFD_SW1_STUFE2 nicht_aktiv BFD Stage 2 activation using Deceleration Sensor (Sensor 2?) BFD_SW2_STUFE2 nicht_aktiv BFD Stage 2 activation using ABS BFD_ABS_STUFE2 aktiv BFD Stage 3 activation using Deceleration Sensor (Sensor 1?) BFD_SW1_STUFE3 aktiv BFD Stage 3 activation using Deceleration Sensor (Sensor 2?) BFD_SW2_STUFE3 aktiv BFD Stage 3 activation using ABS sensor BFD_ABS_STUFE3 aktiv Outer tail lights blink during Stage 3 as well BLST1_BLST3 aktiv Stock settings - extra brake lights on hard stops and forward BFD Stage 2 activation using Deceleration Sensor (Sensor 1?) BFD_SW1_STUFE2 aktiv BFD Stage 2 activation using Deceleration Sensor (Sensor 2?) BFD_SW2_STUFE2 nicht_aktiv BFD Stage 2 activation using ABS BFD_ABS_STUFE2 aktiv BFD Stage 3 activation using Deceleration Sensor (Sensor 1?) BFD_SW1_STUFE3 nicht_aktiv BFD Stage 3 activation using Deceleration Sensor (Sensor 2?) BFD_SW2_STUFE3 nicht_aktiv BFD Stage 3 activation using ABS sensor BFD_ABS_STUFE3 nicht_aktiv Outer tail lights blink during Stage 3 as well BLST1_BLST3 nicht_aktiv
Thank you much
What do you all think about Corvette fitment, 17 in front and 18 in back, on the ZHP? No reason for this question...No reason at all...
Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using Tapatalk
I think one of the things that makes the E46 so aesthetically pleasing is the balance in the design. That would be thrown way off with different size wheels front & rear. Really only works on hot wheels cars.Quote:
Originally Posted by DeathTrap
I ran 245/40-17 fronts and 245/45-17 at the rears for a while.Quote:
Originally Posted by ZHPizza
The rake it creates looked pretty cool to me. It was on stock suspension. All wheels were the same size, though.
Can anyone take a top and side pic of their exhaust tips in relation to the diffuser? Maybe even measure for me?
They are sticking out too far on my custom muffler and I'm going to have them moved back but I need reference point...
I had these on hand.https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...2896162081.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...72376429f1.jpg
Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using Tapatalk
I know Tapatalk image compression will be garbage, but hopefully this helps. Based on DeathTrap’s pictures my Magnaflow tips sit a little further in than OE.Quote:
Originally Posted by Sockethead
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...12f0da5886.jpg
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...ec5a4e9c2e.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...f2b70a5ab7.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...f520cecfb6.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...b4b00b4b84.jpg
I like rake, it looks good on a larger car like the E38. It might be corny on the E46. I wish the seller was closer to do a test fit.Quote:
Originally Posted by stephenkirsh
Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using Tapatalk
I grabbed one of DeathTrap's pics, then added arrows to them. Orange = 20 mm. Yellow = 35 mm.
Attachment 35175
Awesome! Thanks for the help fellas!
This is what I have for my Corsa exhaust, Rob. https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...613ada9c82.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...0d0dd5abc8.jpg
Sent from my Pixel 3 using Tapatalk
They stick out a lot further than the other two. That's about where mine are now... maybe slightly further. I want them tucked in a bit.
My Corsa was like Spencer's.
Still need pics/measurements of OEM?
I think I'm good, thanks!
Those of you who have replaced/upgraded your sway bars, what did you do with your original ones? I’m not blessed with a ton of garage storage, and I’m kinda sick of them taking up space in the corner. I can’t imagine ever taking the 26/20 combo off this car...
I’ve sold a few of them. People with 323/325 want them as a cheap upgrade.
I've got sooo many parts laying around... probably all going to the scrap yard including the M2 stock exhaust with 200 miles on it... also Got full 135 exhaust system and OEM suspension going there too... just no time post on various sites and too much of a PITA to ship. I figure it all have value but we didn't really buy any of it so no real loss
Speaking of getting rid of parts - what do y’all do with used rotors?
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Scrap. Usually, shops will just let you toss them into their scrap pile. That kind of metal is worthless
Some months ago, I took old rotors to Autozone for recycle. They don't take them any more, and said "just put in the trash".
Thanks guys
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
I found a local metal recycle.They pay per the pound of metal.
Good idea, maybe someone reasonably local on E46f will want them.Quote:
Originally Posted by stephenkirsh
I’ve been reasonably good about getting rid of the stuff I know I’ll never put back on, either by selling or scrapping if it was rusty, but some stuff just slipped through the cracks.Quote:
Originally Posted by Sockethead
If you know anyone who tracks see if they want them as spares. A lot of guys take old rotors in case one cracks they can still drive home. Or they’ll use them as weights to keep their canopy in the paddock from blowing away lol.Quote:
Originally Posted by san
Quote:
Originally Posted by san
I return them to FCP and get free new ones to replace them. :shifty