Ahhh. Fighting fire with fire. Always a good option.Quote:
Originally Posted by 704sw
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Ahhh. Fighting fire with fire. Always a good option.Quote:
Originally Posted by 704sw
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Not sure how I missed this. I’m waiting for my smog in the fall to put headers in. I know I’ll get more noise and rasp with headers (or I assume anyway), but right now it’s really bad considering I’m not stock. Volume is barely louder than stock and there’s less rasp than stock. Can’t invest in an entire exhaust right now unfortunately.Quote:
Originally Posted by Sockethead
I’d wait until you get the headers to do anything to the exhaust. It’s going to be much louder. The stock ZHP exhaust sounds pretty damn good with headers IMO
I can send you a couple of video clips of my car with headers and stock exhaust. PM me you email address if you’d like
S55 swap + tuneQuote:
Originally Posted by DeathTrap
If you’d settle for N55 it’s probably relatively feasible. Integration of the CAS has been proven to integrate with E46 body electronics. The E9x cluster I hear fits in the E46 housing relatively well. If you grab the automatic, the transmission computer for N54 was integrated into the transmission, I’m sure it’s the same for N55.Quote:
Originally Posted by stephenkirsh
I love thinking of unique projects like this. My wallet is the limit.
I wish engine swaps didnt cost like 10k, I would drive an s54 sedan any day over an MQuote:
Originally Posted by YoitsTmac
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+1. I think for DIY you could probably do an S54 swap pretty cheap if you can buy an entire car from copart. The swap itself for S54 is pretty easy in my opinion.Quote:
Originally Posted by ComradeNick
edit: I think the cars go for under $5k and there's plenty of extra stuff to sell.
Quote:
Originally Posted by YoitsTmac
But labor is insanely expensive.
I was thinking something completely unrealistic, foolish, and just a total bad idea...N73. They literally go for around $1k. It'd be a pretty ornament tho....Quote:
Originally Posted by YoitsTmac
I hadn't considered the S55. That would be an insane swap. Hmmmm
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Yeah AZ's right on this one, parts are not the issue. The labor to extract, R&R and then make modifications to have the engine work properly including a computer flash are what bring the price up. On top of that you have to do significant reinforcement and upgrades to the subframe, clutch and brakes to handle the additional power.Quote:
Originally Posted by YoitsTmac
Also non of this would be CARB legal so that would just be another headache
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The hard part about that is literally having it fit in the engine bay and finding a transmission that fits. If V12’s follow the same BMW principle as BMW’s I6’s (that the transmission mating patterns are the same), there is someone who offers an adapter plate for a transaxle for the old 8 series V12. I agree though that would be an insane insane project.Quote:
Originally Posted by DeathTrap
For S55, you may like this (however this is likely standalone): https://www.instagram.com/p/ByQtRmeA0Mv/
There’s a carb legal E46 S65 and a carb legal E36 N55. I think he goes by caleem, but someone did a carb legal S54 323i with no chassis modification. (If carb means can be smogged and passed for registration in California.)Quote:
Originally Posted by ComradeNick
Yeah, labor would kill the cost, I’m talking about a DIY project. But I don’t see why the chassis needs reinforcement beyond, typical subframe. People supercharge E46 M3’s without additional reinforcement.
I haven’t looked into engines beyond E9x, but every engine after about 2006 and prior to roughly 2011 just wants CAS, the DME, and specifically in N55’s case - the climate control buttons on CAN or else the electric fan runs at 100% all the time. My friend said for one of his old E39’s he made a stand-alone fan that kicked up from another sensor pretty cheaply so hardly even that is necessary.
If the automatic works, the manual definitely would too. No ABS or DSC but the emission equipment would be getting readings from all the sensors it wants to see
All I6’s from BMW mate to any other I6 transmissions AFAIK. So you could even use a ZHP trans, Z4M trans, or the M3 trans. Then your engine placement would be based on where it ends up with the trans hooked up, but probably would be fairly natural as it’s another I6 with similar dimensions.
I feel the electronics are what scare people from even imagining these projects, but all they really want is the CAS and DME, and the emission equipment would work as if it’s the original car. You’d need to make a custom mount to weld in some plates for engine mounts, maybe massage the frame rails (as was necessary for the N55 in E36), but that’s really it.
To be clear, I’m a 21 year old business student that hasn’t done an engine swap, so put me in my place if I’m wrong. But I’ve witnessed some insane engine swaps online and in person. And even though I’m in finals week, I spent about 35 hours last week reading about these systems as I was looking into retrofitting “active seats” and doing further research on my comfort access E9x keyless start retrofit into my E46.
Yer a youngin lol. I can't talk, I'll be 30 this year. I've just been doing imaginary builds for about 9 years more.Quote:
Originally Posted by YoitsTmac
So the good thing about the N73 is you don't technically *need* an intake manifold and throttle body. I could grab some stainless/CF tubes and fab up a quick set of ITBs which would cut the height down a LOT. It's not very wide, I'd say it's narrower than any BMW V8. For reference an LQ4=LS1 is about 630mm wide. According to this guy from Reddit, the widest point of the N74 is 625 mm. I'd assume the N73 isn't too far off. The rest of the engine is around 525mm wide. Not bad right?
Length...a bit longer than a straight 6. From belts to backplate 810mm
Height, about 670 mm. LS1 is about 700. Dimensionally, it should work...AND the oil pan sump is in the right spot compared to the older M7x V12.
Trans is a toss up. I think it doesn't follow any specific pattern based on comparing images across the internets. Maybe the V8 trans can be slightly modified? The N73 is based heavily on the N62.
Electronics aren't an issue, to me at least. The CAS doesn't really care about too much, if you feed it just enough signals to be happy I think it'll work. Ironically, I spent almost all Saturday researching the keylessGO/comfort access system. Feel free to PM me if you want to throw ideas around.
Love this, great read. The S85 (although granted is very closely related to) and the S65 shared the same transmission mounting design, from what I've read. Perhaps BMW has swayed away from V12 specific mounts to cut costs. Now you got me damn curious. Where did you find engine dimensions? I legitimately want to try to N55 swap my E46 once I get a career - I'll roomie over renting my own place to do it if I have to. Dimensions of BMW motors is something I struggle finding.Quote:
Originally Posted by DeathTrap
I'm so so happy to hear I'm not the only one looking into this. For what it's worth, it's been done. Definitely going to throw you a PM.
N74 dimensions I found here:Quote:
Originally Posted by YoitsTmac
https://www.reddit.com/r/BmwTech/com...ne_dimensions/
And I believe the e60/e90 CAS will interface with the V12s DME which is even more motivation to try this out!
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Can CAS modules be paired to different DME’s? I thought they both had to be from the same car to allow for crank much like EWS?Quote:
Originally Posted by DeathTrap
I believe if the DME is virgin, then yes. Otherwise no.Quote:
Originally Posted by YoitsTmac
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Can you virginize a DME?Quote:
Originally Posted by DeathTrap
'I' can't, at least not at the moment. But it is possible and has been done using a BDM tool.
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I know the answer is “yes,” but just want someone to verify: the transmission input shaft spins even in neutral as long as the clutch isn’t depressed, correct?
I think I’ve narrowed down the ticking sound I’ve been bitching about since installing the Valeo SMF clutch kit as being the throwout bearing, and I’m trying to confirm. The ticking sound has gotten worse in the last few months so I need to address it soon. I assume I just got a bad bearing, or Valeo’s QC isn’t great for that part, because Vas described a similar sound.
I would think so, yes...Quote:
Originally Posted by 704sw
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Just finished my first autocross that had several long sweeping turns and was getting an awful knock after runs. I let it sit for 20 mins and added half a quart of oil and it settled out, but would come back after every run. I assume it was an issue of oil starvation since it went away after some time, so
1. Does that sound like oil starvation to you kids and
2. Am I gonna have to baffle this bitch up?
Edit: nvm it's normal even with the extra half quart
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The throwout bearing only spins when the clutch is engagedQuote:
Originally Posted by 704sw
Knocking is not normal, but loud ticking is. Yes, it is indeed oil starvation, and happens to a variety of BMW models. Some people say the trick is to pour an extra half to one whole quart in over full to mitigate it, but makes some people uncomfortable doing so.Quote:
Originally Posted by ZHPizza
That is one of the reasons I don't auto-x anymore.
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Yup, these engines tick like mad after autoxQuote:
Originally Posted by ZHPizza
hey BP, you around this week? still want to check out why my mpg is that of a mid-size suv :)Quote:
Originally Posted by az3579
Yep, I'll be around.Quote:
Originally Posted by NYRhockey
Taking my car into the local dealer to have oil done this Thursday, but figured I'd ask here before I brought it in.
I just noticed late last week that my passenger side floor mat and carpet were soaked, causing a pretty nauseating smell in the cab, and I can't figure out for the life of me where the water is coming from. At first I thought an AC vent was dripping but couldn't find any wet sources in the footwell. Figured it may be a seal but all around the door and in the door jam the weather seals are plush. My sunroof has been broken for over a year and I couldn't imagine how water would reach the footwell from roof, let alone now after it has never happened before.
My brother suggested it might be a clogged sunroof drain(?) but I'm not sure where that would be to even inspect, plus I can't even open my sunroof right now.
Any ideas?
No idea. Dealer oil changes are expensive, do you have a local indy who can do it?
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Possibly vapor barrier. When that happened to my X3 I left a boxfan in the floorboard overnight and it was totally dry by morning with no smell.Quote:
Originally Posted by Prestovie
Actually they're pretty cheap, great value. I have several dealers in my area that will do an oil change for $59-69.Quote:
Originally Posted by johnrando
Yeah I can second that, I think the one here takes like 100 which is much less than what indys do. Just be careful, they take a loss on the oil change so they're strongly motivated to upsell any other problems you might have.Quote:
Originally Posted by az3579
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Yeah from what I remember my dealer charges around $65, missed the appointment anyway because work went long so guess we'll see next week.Quote:
Originally Posted by az3579
But the past couple days the floor has been dry even with it raining one of the days so hopefully one of the techs will have an insight
You think $100 is a good price? That sounds expensive to me.Quote:
Originally Posted by ComradeNick
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Alright so that comment made me go digging.Quote:
Originally Posted by johnrando
So the filter is like 12 bucks on our car, and oil is 7 quarts at something like 7 or 8 bucks a quart for something like 0w-40. That should be like 60ish bucks, which looks like about right since the FCP euro liqui-moly kit is 58, Mobil might be a little cheaper actually. 40 in labor isn't unreasonable for about a half hour, esp when the stealer charges 300/h for labor normally.
Come to find out my mechanic charged me 12 bucks a quart for 5w-40 motul. Parts ended up being 90 bucks, and another 90 for labor. Granted he did a general inspection but it was stupid shit, only useful thing was checking battery voltage.
This is the same guy that charged me 1k to do the OPG but jesus. The stealer is looking like the affordable option. Another reason for me not to go back.
Next time I'm going to just do the oil change at my work w/ some 0w-40 m1 and a mann filter. It'll still be around 100 bit at least I can go in there and get a good look underneath to see if there's still an oil leak.
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Don't forget that the $58 oil change kit from FCP includes a filter, so you won't have to buy any of those parts again including the oil. Just return the oil stuff and you effectively paid nothing for your oil changes after the initial purchase, not counting shipping of course. After that all you'll have to pay him is labor.
$40 for labor to change oil I guess isn't too crazy, but it is on the higher end of what I've seen (my guy does it for $20 if I supply oil/filter). $12/quart for oil? That's GAS STATION pricing, which is the extreme high end.
I just have been doing my own for so long I don't know where the prices are... they just sound high. I know it's not a LOT more than DIY when you do the math if you get a good deal, but it certainly isn't cheap. :)
Has anyone used a Schwaben oil extractor or something along those lines to change their oil from the dipstick?
How well does it work?
From what I've been hearing people have concerns about not getting some of the residue from the bottom, but have never tried it themselves.
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You're right about the people that have those concerns being the ones that have never used an extractor. I have one and it works great. No need to get under the car or even pull it in the garage. You want to change the oil while it's hot and thin, so you don't have to wait on the car to cool down either. Just drive home, pop the hood, shove it down the dipstick tube, pump a couple times to build the vacuum, then start changing the filter. By the time you're halfway through changing the filter, you'll hear the extractor sucking air - she's done! Add new oil and call it a day.Quote:
Originally Posted by ComradeNick
I can't find it anymore, but I got a manual 7.5L version (didn't even want the pneumatic option). Simple and just big enough for an e46 oil change. I love it.
Remind me, how does one empty the extractor? Is there an option to push it back out the tube? That would make refilling the oil containers with oil oil for return to FCP so much easier...
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