Color matched is my vote.
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Color matched is my vote.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by John in VA
He's going to have to paint it himself anyway since Estoril is not a color available on those sites.
I’d probably pay the $75 from Bimmian if Estoril was actually an option, but $110 from IND is more than I’d be willing to spend.Quote:
Originally Posted by az3579
My brother asked me to order some touchup paint for his car anyway, so I’ll just add a rattle can of EB to the order and call it a day.
Anyone know where I can buy some interior paint for the plastic pieces for a black interior? I was hoping BMW still sold some of the rubberized coating but I haven't found anything other than beige so far.
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SEM Color Coat Landau Black is a good match. It's flexible, but I wouldn't consider it "soft-touch" like the factory finish.Quote:
Originally Posted by ComradeNick
https://www.semproducts.com/product/...aerosols/15013
Not sure if this is helpful but a few years ago I decided to buy a lot of new interior pieces (like the center console, etc) to replace my old scratched ones and I found them to be a lot cheaper than I was expecting. Replacing them was pretty easy too.Quote:
Originally Posted by ComradeNick
On a similar note, for those of you that have painted your lower grille, what kind of paint did you use? Just inexpensive spray paint?
And has anyone had luck with painting the black sedan bumper trim? I've used blast plastic restorer and the like many times, but I'd love to find something that lasts longer. Mine are super faded against the red.
I used PlastiDip on the lower grill and it’s held up pretty well. Regular spray paint will chip and flake, but PlastiDip doesn’t. If it gets a nick and starts peeling just spray over it and it’ll seal itself back up. Just be gentle when you clean it the first few months but it’ll get pretty hard over time.Quote:
Originally Posted by Yankeefan
For the black trim I like Cquartz Dlux.
I used Forever Black on the trim from my first e46. It lasted 2 years easily. I sold the car at that point. I applied only once.
Hi guys, I'm having some trouble here and I'm hoping I can get some numbers from you guys. Long story short, my differential locked up 3 months ago, the mechanic has had my car for nearly 3 months now. So 6 differentials later I still dont think its correct. While I'm in 6th gear doing 80 mph my rpms are at 3k rpm or just a bit passed that. Does that sound right to you guys?
According to bokchoys website it should be at 2804 rpms.
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Installed spacers. 15mm upfront and back. 4 OEM csl 19" rims :) brought a smile to my face. Next step clay bar and wax https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...8a1cb95e8e.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...cd126aae01.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...eb27ce5756.jpg
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Whoops posted in the wrong discussionQuote:
Originally Posted by e46zhpm3
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Re lower grill, regular gloss black spray paint has worked well on mine and has held up well over the years.Quote:
Originally Posted by Yankeefan
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Attachment 35561
Hey everybody, trying to get back in the swing of things here and I have a question... I’m ordering BC coilovers next week but I wanna get all reinforcements out of the way
So far I have the strut & rear shock plates, still need to order the paper gasket that goes above the RSM’s from the picture above... but if I’m buying new coilovers, Do I need to buy Rear Shock Mounts as well? Hoping to go for Bimmerworlds since there lifetime warrantied and serviceable
Just want to be as preventative and as thorough as possible.
I have a full suspension overhaul on the way, Lemforder ZHP Control Arms, Lemforder End Links, OE Z4M Control Arm Bushings, Tie Rods+Boots.
I was hoping to swing some money for SwayBarbarians from UUC but its a lot of money to spend all at once. I need to do RTABS as well, any suggestions there please let me know.
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The cap diameter on the BBS CH wheels is 70mm correct? I think this is the model number no? BBS bbs09.24.467 Center Cap
Lost a carbon fiber center cap and need to find a replacement
Hi guys. I finishing up my two tone door cards and just last week my driver rear window regulator went. I figure it would be a good time for it since i was removing the door card anyway. While I'm in there I'm planning on replacing the vapor barrier. But would you guys replace all the vapor barriers in the other doors or just leave them alone? Also is there anything else i should consider doing while im in there?
If I did it again, I would replace the barrier. It's not worth the pond in the carpet when it rains. The carpet is exceptionally absorbent BTW.Quote:
Originally Posted by joeybananaz18
I had some left over sound deadening that I used on the doors. Now they feel solid like an E38...well maybe not quite but you get the picture.
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so you're saying change them when the panels are off, even though im not doing the regulators on those doors, correct? just don't want to spend $120 if idont have to.Quote:
Originally Posted by DeathTrap
Wait, that's how much those things cost? Be very careful taking the old one off. Maybe even get some fresh butyl rope. I think that was my main issue anyway, the barrier didn't fully re-seal after removal.Quote:
Originally Posted by joeybananaz18
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Butyl tape on eBay before doing a job on this area, they sell it in massive rolls and though it’s expensive it will reseal the area well. My brother bought an E90 sedan that had leaks on everything including the front windshield. A massive roll of this worked well and still had plenty left overQuote:
Originally Posted by DeathTrap
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no im sorry for the mix up. i think they're between 40-50 bux. im doing a left rear regulator so im definitely doing a new vapor barrier on that door. what im asking is should i do the other 3 when i swap in my new door cards. im leaning towards no unless the consensus is otherwise.Quote:
Originally Posted by DeathTrap
and a big yes to the butyl tape!
If the rear left regulator is being replaced then that will only require new butyl tape & not a full vapor barrier replacement (not always the case) unless there’s a tear in the current barrierQuote:
Originally Posted by joeybananaz18
For good measure on the other 3 doors you can certainly add/replace the butyl tape on the vapor barriers but word of caution: don’t do it unless you notice water on the carpet, the vapor barriers are flimsy and tear with any kind of resistance from the opposite direction. Ask me how I know [emoji2359][emoji2359][emoji2359] lol
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Yep, the barrier is one of those things where if it's working, leave it alone.
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No point in replacing the vapor barrier if it isn't torn. Just wasting time and money at that point.
It's a good idea to have extra butyl on hand, but I find that if you separate the vapor barrier by cutting the butyl with a knife as you peel, you can clean the butyl and "reactivate" it with some 3M adhesive cleaner. It actually makes the stuff incredibly sticky and seals great.
I got my car with 2 leaking vapor barriers, which made the car smell like a swamp. The 3M stuff got those stuck on good: http://www.zhpmafia.com/forums/showt...467#post580467
With the number of times I've replaced window regulators and door lock actuators in my E38 and both front regulators in the ZHP, I've never had a leak using that stuff.
That reminds me. At the beginning of the year I found a small puddle in the front passenger footwell. I’ll definitely add the butyl tape if I see any torn areas but does the logic process of “well if I found water in the front passenger footwell, that I should look for a problem on that door” work here or can each barrier affect all the footwells (feetwells? Lol)?Quote:
Originally Posted by ZHP_Brandon
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I think it's specific to that footwell. I also have some moisture on my passenger side mat.Quote:
Originally Posted by joeybananaz18
Nope that’s actually not the footwell if the front passenger carpet/all weather mat is wet after the rain. That’s the gutter running from the sunroof to the drain inside of the A-pillar, yours may or may not have gotten detached/clogged up causing water to pool up.Quote:
Originally Posted by joeybananaz18
Best course of action on that side is to remove the a pillar (good luck I stripped my passenger side torx heads this summer), door gasket (what appears to be suede in appearance), the sun visor, vanity light, “oh sheet” handle, and all the plastics and try to get a look inside at the rain gutter to see if it’s come off or not. I couldn’t get my a-pillar off so I just bent the headliner out of the way to reattach the rubber grommet onto the metal gutter. All good as new and no more mildewy smell inside
I have a video on my phone of what you should be looking for in terms of the grommet, the grommet is the little black piece in the video and that goes onto what appears to be a metal nipple in there
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If I wanted to buy a used 4.0 LCM, but it doesn’t come with Automatic headlights (automatically turn on)
All I would have to do is code it to match my car and pick the proper options and then swap my faceplate correct?
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Thanks for the correction. Will have to do this at some point. Right now it's not too bad.Quote:
Originally Posted by ZHP_Brandon
I believe so, with xenons and auto-leveling features being the ones to match. What's the part number?Quote:
Originally Posted by ZHP_Brandon
No problem! Took me ages to figure out what was causing this interior water leak but finally things are normal, be warned though my hand was cut up real bad and I had to go in from the sunroof. Removed the sunroof gasket from the headliner & bent my way into it.Quote:
Originally Posted by holyc0w
Here’s a picture from the eBay listing but besides the sketchy water on the LCM [emoji2955][emoji2955][emoji2955]... it totally says “S.W: 1.3”Quote:
Originally Posted by holyc0w
Here’s the listing
https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?m...2F233285141809
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...777734cb3b.jpg
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Totally sketchy - the title and description does not match up with the pictures. I would ask them for clarification.Quote:
Originally Posted by ZHP_Brandon
SW 1.3 is also ancient. That looks like a picture of the wrong item. You may want to clarify with the seller whether that's the pictured item. If it is, I'd pass, due to the water and the label that doesn't match what the seller is claiming.
Anyone have any thoughts as to why one of my license plate lights isn't working? I put in LED bulbs awhile back which worked fine. After I noticed one out, I bought replacements thinking it was a blown bulb but that didn't resolve the issue? It didn't look terribly corroded from what I remember but I could use some help?
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The LED lights are finicky with the placement/contact. I'm not sure why. They have to be just right and then after driving for a bit, it moves out of that narrow "working zone". I think it's mainly one side. Curiously, which side is out?
Interesting. It's the driver side I believeQuote:
Originally Posted by holyc0w
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Passenger side for me. I just went to check it out. I pressed it in a bit and it lit up again. Originally my brother opened it up and played around with the bulb inside the casing.Quote:
Originally Posted by JPMo
welp, funny enough I just went outside to check it out and something clicked. I remembered reading something about flipping the bulb around if it does not work one way. So I tried that and BOOM, light!! Happily I realized that the new bulbs I ordered had a great cool blue tone unlike the yellower first pair I bought. I went to swap in the new bulb on the passenger side and realized they sent me the wrong bulb... Its literally always something with these cars! Doesnt matter how mundaneQuote:
Originally Posted by holyc0w
I have another question though. Who's car is this and how can I get that stance. Its perfect! Low but not slammed and fills the wheel wells nicely.
Attachment 35586
I can probably answer that as my stance is practically identical and have the same wheels. [emoji4]Quote:
Originally Posted by JPMo
Coilovers will get you the ride height and the BBS CH wheels have an offset that get you that perfect wheel fitment look without the use of spacers.
https://i.imgur.com/RzSY1cB.jpg
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Thank you, I feel like I should have known that but that picture really just spoke to me. I really need a suspension refresh but I was thinking Bilstein B8s with H&R sports -_- this is a hard decisionQuote:
Originally Posted by az3579