MINI today? #2

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05-25-2016, 07:50 AM
Rovert

Other pipe is the stock resonator.

I have stock headers.
05-25-2016, 09:07 AM
fredo

Quote:

Originally Posted by BMWCurves

That's quite the list. Good stuff!

Thanks. I feel bad, all my attention goes to the ZHP. Finally I decided it was the Mini's turn !

Quote:

Originally Posted by 330i Lover

All this in 1 day? You go boy!

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G900A using Tapatalk

Yeah, all in one day. My Indy is very quick. I just noticed one thing after the repairs: the "check your gas cap" warning goes on and off. I will go back if it continues.
05-25-2016, 09:38 AM
terraphantm

Working on the upper/lower balljoints/bushings on the trailing arm. Got one ball joint out and new one in without too much drama. Was working on the lower bushing, but it's apparently too seized in there and I managed to shear the fully threaded bolt in the Koch toolset.

For reference, it appears to be a M12x1.75x140mm bolt made of stainless steel (A2-70). I ordered a Class 10.9 steel bolt as a replacement which should be a bit stronger. Hopefully that works.
05-25-2016, 09:45 AM
Sockethead

grease the crap out of the new bolt and put some heat on the flange that the ball joint is in....
05-25-2016, 09:46 AM
Rovert

I just purchased new bolts and nuts at 10.8 for the exhaust. Will those be strong enough for weather and heat?
05-25-2016, 09:52 AM
terraphantm

Quote:

Originally Posted by Sockethead

grease the crap out of the new bolt and put some heat on the flange that the ball joint is in....

Yeah I did grease the crap out of the bolt, but I guess I'll have to get some heat there too. Was hoping to avoid that with the limited clearance and maneuverability under there

Quote:

Originally Posted by Rovert

I just purchased new bolts and nuts at 10.8 for the exhaust. Will those be strong enough for weather and heat?

I would go stainless for exhaust bolts and nuts if possible
05-25-2016, 10:12 AM
slater

Quote:

Originally Posted by terraphantm

Working on the upper/lower balljoints/bushings on the trailing arm. Got one ball joint out and new one in without too much drama. Was working on the lower bushing, but it's apparently too seized in there and I managed to shear the fully threaded bolt in the Koch toolset.

wowzers. that is seized! i removed all of those ball joints and every bushing in the rear end with that tool, no issues. what were you pressing with on the other side? also, i sprayed both outer bushing/ball joint casings with PB Blaster (the old units), before pressing them out with the koch tool.
05-25-2016, 10:25 AM
terraphantm

Quote:

Originally Posted by slater

wowzers. that is seized! i removed all of those ball joints and every bushing in the rear end with that tool, no issues. what were you pressing with on the other side? also, i sprayed both outer bushing/ball joint casings with PB Blaster (the old units), before pressing them out with the koch tool.

Well I was just using the fittings mentioned on the instruction sheet, and was cranking against that assembly with a lot of force before the bolt ended up shearing. Did spray it in PB blaster overnight. Might try some more (or just nut up and heat it with a torch).
05-25-2016, 11:03 AM
slater

1 Attachment(s)

Quote:

Originally Posted by terraphantm

Well I was just using the fittings mentioned on the instruction sheet, and was cranking against that assembly with a lot of force before the bolt ended up shearing. Did spray it in PB blaster overnight. Might try some more (or just nut up and heat it with a torch).

odd. here's how i did it - the part circled in red is from a universal bearing driver set i had - it matched the OD of the old bushing:
05-25-2016, 12:41 PM
terraphantm

Your's looks a good bit different than the one I'm using. This is what I'm using:

https://youtu.be/Zl_LJVTAFkY

Though now that I look closer, seems like the bolts were already replaced with generics once before (I borrowed the toolset from someone on m3forum)