The Random E46/ZHP Question Thread

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Originally Posted by JPMo

Thank you, I feel like I should have known that but that picture really just spoke to me. I really need a suspension refresh but I was thinking Bilstein B8s with H&R sports -_- this is a hard decision

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I’m going for BC Coils with M3 spring rates myself on my car but I’m really undecided... I’m not sure if I want a stiffer ride afterall, I feel like despite my suspension being super high mileage the ride is so normal but it just doesn’t absorb the road well anymore.

When comparing the cost of Bilsteins+H&R or Tein Springs it’s hard to not consider coils cause for close to the same price you can at least have adjustable height & dampening


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That's a fair point. My suspension is completely shot. It's pretty harsh and doesn't absorb road imperfections well at all. So if that's what a harsh suspension feels like, I guess I can handle it if it's more stable. Not sure if I like much harsher than what it is now

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Anyone know the part # for the rear "ashtray" cubbie behind the center armrest and the fog lights trim? missing both sides. Thx.

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Originally Posted by NYRhockey

Anyone know the part # for the rear "ashtray" cubbie behind the center armrest and the fog lights trim? missing both sides. Thx.

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Fog light trims:
Left 51117893067
Right 51117893068

The rear ashtray is color-dependent:
Black 51168268340 (replace the last number with a 1 for grey or a 2 for beige).

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Originally Posted by 704sw

Fog light trims:
Left 51117893067
Right 51117893068

The rear ashtray is color-dependent:
Black 51168268340 (replace the last number with a 1 for grey or a 2 for beige).

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sweet. thanks!

Is there any member here who has an M235i? How does it compare with the ZHP? I've already done some digging online in the other forums, and only found one comp.

After 7 years and 206k miles later (131k added by me) with the ZHP, I've been looking at the 2016 MY's...not 2017+ M240i, just last MY's with the N55.

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Originally Posted by JKO_ZHP

Is there any member here who has an M235i? How does it compare with the ZHP? I've already done some digging online in the other forums, and only found one comp.

After 7 years and 206k miles later (131k added by me) with the ZHP, I've been looking at the 2016 MY's...not 2017+ M240i, just last MY's with the N55.

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I’ve spent an extended amount of driving time in one. It totally depends on what you’re looking for. iDrive is really nice and the seats are really comfortable compared to my M3 seats. The power will never feel as instant being a turbo but you get an ample amount of power. Through the corners the car could hold its own but didn’t feel as confident as my E46. If I had 50k. Unlike the 4 series, the 2 series is very close to size compared to E46. In the 4 series, which we now have apart of our family, you can feel that additional 8 inches or so in width every time we take it out.

I also drove the M2 competition in Monterey and I think I’ll go against the grain and say that car has an amazing engine and great tech, but driving right after the M4 competition, you could feel how much BMW held back on M tech. Most notable the M2 also shared that “lack of confidence” in the corners. I pushed the M2 way harder than I pushed the M235i, but it felt really unsettled with bumps through a corner.

Finally, depending on the year M235i, the steering leaves a lot to be desired. Granted the comparison is E46, but we complain almost all the time in our 4 series that it’s hard to tell how hard your pushing the car - and it inspires virtually no confidence as a byproduct. My mom hates taking the 4 series through a corner quickly because it really makes her feel uncomfortable. It’s her first BMW and she definitely was expecting something closer to my E46. All I will say is I felt something similar with the M235i, but not to that intensity. I highly suggest you find a spec you like at a dealer and take it for a test drive. We test drive hard and if you’re in the market, it pays for you to as well.

Is there a way to visually tell if a LCM supports auto leveling by the exterior, or do you always need a vin?

So I went under the car to investigate a periodic rubbing sound which increases in frequency with wheel speed, as well as a loud click sound whenever I brake or change gears between reverse and drive. From the things I’ve read, it sounded like it might be poorly positioned brake pads, so I examined them, but they look fine. Then I decided to look under the rear suspension and found this. Pretty much the same on the other side. Do I need to replace my diff? I am at 100k miles.
Attachment 35657


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Is it the diff or the axles making the noise?

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Originally Posted by DeathTrap

Is it the diff or the axles making the noise?

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I can’t tell. I took it to an alignment shop a while back and they were not able to replicate the sound. My gut tells me it’s from the axle or wheel though.


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Clicking sounds like it would be an axle. I've heard that clicking axles usually means they're going to fail.

Clicking sounds like it would be an axle. I've heard that clicking axles usually means they're going to fail.

I would definitely check everything though; I had a clicking once that just turned out to be a brake lining sensor loose and hitting the wheel as it rotated. lol

Actually I think I figured out what the click what. I was not able to fully torque down my passenger side engine mount when I replaced them. I’m able to get an extension and swivel socket into the limited space between the block and the engine compartment, but because of the angle created, I don’t get enough torque, and can’t turn the nut on the engine mount anymore. Has anyone come across this, and has any suggestions? Maybe I need to go out and get a special tool?


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Does anybody have family/friends in London? Lmao
Trying to get a NLA part shipped out to the US, but the seller refuses to handle the international shipping because he’s out of the country. Any help would be greatly appreciated


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Originally Posted by papa_g

Actually I think I figured out what the click what. I was not able to fully torque down my passenger side engine mount when I replaced them. I’m able to get an extension and swivel socket into the limited space between the block and the engine compartment, but because of the angle created, I don’t get enough torque, and can’t turn the nut on the engine mount anymore. Has anyone come across this, and has any suggestions? Maybe I need to go out and get a special tool?


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Special tools aren’t required for engine mounts. I think you best access it from below

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Originally Posted by ZHP_Brandon

Does anybody have family/friends in London? Lmao
Trying to get a NLA part shipped out to the US, but the seller refuses to handle the international shipping because he’s out of the country. Any help would be greatly appreciated


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Tell him to make the transaction on eBay and use the Global Shipping program. He can use his domestic carrier and eBay will handle the international portion.

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Originally Posted by DeathTrap

Tell him to make the transaction on eBay and use the Global Shipping program. He can use his domestic carrier and eBay will handle the international portion.

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Awesome! I’ll see if he bites lol


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Originally Posted by papa_g

Actually I think I figured out what the click what. I was not able to fully torque down my passenger side engine mount when I replaced them. I’m able to get an extension and swivel socket into the limited space between the block and the engine compartment, but because of the angle created, I don’t get enough torque, and can’t turn the nut on the engine mount anymore. Has anyone come across this, and has any suggestions? Maybe I need to go out and get a special tool?

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For the top nut? I ran into similar issues. What I did was get under the car, reach up and seat the socket on the nut. Then assembled my u-joint and extensions, attached them to the socked and fished them up between the strut tower and block, then I got out from under the car and attached the ratchet to the extensions from above. Sounds kinda silly but it worked perfectly.

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Originally Posted by 704sw

For the top nut? I ran into similar issues. What I did was get under the car, reach up and seat the socket on the nut. Then assembled my u-joint and extensions, attached them to the socked and fished them up between the strut tower and block, then I got out from under the car and attached the ratchet to the extensions from above. Sounds kinda silly but it worked perfectly.

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That’s what I did except I am able to get my socket, ujoint and extensions onto the nut from the top. I was able to tighten the nut down this way up to a point, now the torque required to tighten it further exceeds what my tower of extensions can handle and everything falls apart (imagine all the tools raining from the bottom of the engine bay).
I’m thinking maybe my ujoint is too rigid or maybe I need to try a flex extension.
Or maybe I can just ask a shop to do it next time I take my car there for what ever reason.


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I'm having the hardest time finding a set of decently used Style 135s. I've been looking for a good month or 2 to replace the passenger side front and rear wheels. What are the best options for finding something like that? Ebay? online salvage yards?

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Originally Posted by JPMo

I'm having the hardest time finding a set of decently used Style 135s. I've been looking for a good month or 2 to replace the passenger side front and rear wheels. What are the best options for finding something like that? Ebay? online salvage yards?

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Have you checked with Wheel Collision Center in PA?
http://www.wheelcollision.com/store/...-325I-330I.htm
http://www.wheelcollision.com/store/...-325I-330I.htm

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Originally Posted by John in VA

Have you checked with Wheel Collision Center in PA?
http://www.wheelcollision.com/store/...-325I-330I.htm
http://www.wheelcollision.com/store/...-325I-330I.htm

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Thank you, I've never heard of them. Looks like they sell refurbished wheels? Do you have any experience with them? I was trying to avoid refurbished wheels because I didn't want to end up with something shoddy that would start peeling or looking terrible after a couple months.

Hey guys, Im looking into LED bulbs, have any of you done the conversion? My car came with halogen set up. TIA!

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Originally Posted by Yass_ZHP

Hey guys, Im looking into LED bulbs, have any of you done the conversion? My car came with halogen set up. TIA!

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To actual LEDs or to xenon?

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Originally Posted by stephenkirsh

To actual LEDs or to xenon?

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Yep, to actual LEDs, something like this:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...ZVH04R37U&th=1

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Originally Posted by JPMo

Looks like they sell refurbished wheels? Do you have any experience with them? I was trying to avoid refurbished wheels because I didn't want to end up with something shoddy that would start peeling or looking terrible after a couple months.

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I've used them twice. On one occasion they refinished my wheels; other time I bought their wheels & then sent mine back for core exchange. Great work / no problems. You probably have a shop down your way that offers a similar service. http://www.princewheelservices.com/ is who the E39 M5 guys trust to redo the factory hypersilver finish on their wheels.

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Originally Posted by Yass_ZHP

Yep, to actual LEDs, something like this:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...ZVH04R37U&th=1

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You definitely don’t want to be putting those, or anything other than halogen bulbs, in halogen reflector housings. Also 6000k will be quite fatiguing on your eyes.

Don’t mean to be a Negative Nancy, but that’s a quick way to be called lots of unpleasant names by those with whom you share the road.

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Originally Posted by 704sw

You definitely don’t want to be putting those, or anything other than halogen bulbs, in halogen reflector housings. Also 6000k will be quite fatiguing on your eyes.

Don’t mean to be a Negative Nancy, but that’s a quick way to be called lots of unpleasant names by those with whom you share the road.

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Not at all!! Thanks for the comments, I already have a projector retrofit headlight from Umnitza, but kept the halogen setup. Unfortunately, Im now hating my low beams specifically and Im looking for an upgrade, dont wanna go to HIDs.

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Originally Posted by Yass_ZHP

Not at all!! Thanks for the comments, I already have a projector retrofit headlight from Umnitza, but kept the halogen setup. Unfortunately, Im now hating my low beams specifically and Im looking for an upgrade, dont wanna go to HIDs.

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Why wouldn't you want HIDs? In terms of visual light output they should be the same.

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Originally Posted by ComradeNick

Why wouldn't you want HIDs? In terms of visual light output they should be the same.

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I think he means he doesn't want HIDs in the halogen housing, which is a smart move. An HID kit inside a halogen housing is a horrible idea.

Yass, why not install the Umnitza lights? That is THE upgrade. I'm assuming those headlights have proper Xenon projectors?

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Originally Posted by az3579

I think he means he doesn't want HIDs in the halogen housing, which is a smart move. An HID kit inside a halogen housing is a horrible idea.

Yass, why not install the Umnitza lights? That is THE upgrade. I'm assuming those headlights have proper Xenon projectors?

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Yeah that's what I meant, i thought he was trying to add LEDs into the halogen housing.

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Originally Posted by az3579

I think he means he doesn't want HIDs in the halogen housing, which is a smart move. An HID kit inside a halogen housing is a horrible idea.

Yass, why not install the Umnitza lights? That is THE upgrade. I'm assuming those headlights have proper Xenon projectors?

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Yeah thats probably the way Im going, but found this LED conversion kit interesting.. :D

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Originally Posted by Yass_ZHP

Yeah thats probably the way Im going, but found this LED conversion kit interesting.. :D

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Please don't put LEDs in your halogen housings. They will blind the crap out of people and your light output is probably going to be terrible anyway.
Halogen housings are designed to only work properly with halogen bulbs. Lighting is a VERY precise science.

In regards to halogen fog lights, is it practical to put white halogens in to match the white Xenons of the headlights? (Do white halogens even exist lol)


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Originally Posted by papa_g

In regards to halogen fog lights, is it practical to put white halogens in to match the white Xenons of the headlights? (Do white halogens even exist lol)


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Yeah, they make blue-tinted halogen bulbs that will match better. The TRS LED fog lights match well enough and actually provide some helpful output, but ya know...they cost a few more dollars...

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Originally Posted by ZHPizza

Yeah, they make blue-tinted halogen bulbs that will match better. The TRS LED fog lights match well enough and actually provide some helpful output, but ya know...they cost a few more dollars...

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Thanks. Yeah I also saw there was a group buy for miramoto led projector fog lights (or were they xenons...) which looked pretty noice


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Can anyone help my identify this bar?
Note that it does have a pivot point to on the right (drivers side), it’s also configured for the battery jump post.

https://i.ibb.co/nsN3W6Z/712-E239-C-...C837-F5228.jpg

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Originally Posted by Joerdan23TN

Can anyone help my identify this bar?
Note that it does have a pivot point to on the right (drivers side), it’s also configured for the battery jump post.

https://i.ibb.co/nsN3W6Z/712-E239-C-...C837-F5228.jpg

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https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?m...2F173204698635

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Originally Posted by ZHPizza

https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?m...2F173204698635

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Thanks for the info! I have been trying to track that down for a while.

It seems like a very good, well designed bar, but I have been considering replacing it and now that I know it is a generic off brand, I probably will.