Looks like they changed back-side designs. What are the date stamps on each wheel?
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Looks like they changed back-side designs. What are the date stamps on each wheel?
I know there’s an e60 version of the wheel that was sold in the US. I’m pretty sure they had different part numbers, though.
Maybe not?
Not sure, didn’t think to check that. I can look at the new one and see.Quote:
Originally Posted by Will
I believe the E60 version have a different offset but not sure about the part number. I’d imagine they’d be differentQuote:
Originally Posted by stephenkirsh
Anybody know the part number for the exterior trim for the sedans? The silver on mine are starting to flake and instead of sanding them down and trying to match again I'm thinking of just going back to the matte black... maybe gloss
Not sure of the part #’s but I think I have a set of exterior trims in my basement I believe, but they’re faded. Would be a good opportunity to get some aerosol trim paint to get them to all match.Quote:
Originally Posted by Prestovie
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Not the answer you're looking for either but I just bought a cheap set of replica trim from China on eBay and it's been holding up really well and looks indistinguishable from the real thing.
If you're willing to part I would definitely take them off your hands! Seems like you're more than a stones throw away, though, so not sure what shipping would look like from NY to Chicago in a bigger boxQuote:
Originally Posted by ZHP_Brandon
I'll actually look into that, never thought of going that route :biggrinQuote:
Originally Posted by Galapolis
Yeah I’d be happy to part ways! Only down side is I don’t believe it’s a complete set, PM me so I can provide pictures for you. I don’t think shipping would be too much, I can try to put it in a small boxQuote:
Originally Posted by Prestovie
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pedro2u
Quote:
Originally Posted by johnrando
Well, just got a response from ECS Tuning. Rep states that he thinks BMW changed the cast in order to prevent rust build up between the wheel and hub, ultimately leading to a wheel thats easier to remove in the future. Makes a lot of sense and driving around with the new, less flush wheel has been fine so I'm ok with it. Gonna get a replacement rear soon.Quote:
Originally Posted by pedro2u
Less difficult to remove in thw new cast?
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Sorry, the new cast is supposed to prevent rust build up thus making the wheel easier to remove
K. Thot so, thx. Even tho it's not as flush, can you tell just by looking at them when on the car?
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Yes you actually can although very subtle. These were the photos I sent to ECS. https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...566ab01698.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...a45d3eb0a2.jpgQuote:
Originally Posted by johnrando
^ Looks flush to me...
I thought maybe you were referring to the actual mating surface not being flush, but it looks correct in that picture.
x2 Everything looks fine. A lot of new manufacturers are doing that design. Pretty sure my Mazda’s OEM 18s have a similar seat, I’ve had no problems in the 60k miles I’ve had the car.Quote:
Originally Posted by az3579
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Yes I was referring to the mating surfaces. That small gap wasn't present on my other 4 OEM wheels which is why the tire shop bought it to my attention
Would bad/failed FCABS cause a change in brake bias? Whenever I depress the brake pedal passed a quarter of the way down, it almost feels like abs turns on as I get the pedal to kick me back. It happens no matter what speed I’m at as well.
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They will not. This sounds more of an issue with the actual braking system.Quote:
Originally Posted by ZHP_Brandon
Are the same type of pads used on the front vs the rear of the vehicle? Last time a brake fluid flush was done? A caliper piston could be not retracting fully but not dragging to the extent of lock up.
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Ah, I was hoping it was something that simple since I have a front overhaul to do soon anyhow.Quote:
Originally Posted by Vas
I scanned my car with the car on and I received this fault in the abs/dsc module: “5DF4 - absent - ABS-DSC: system voltage below 9V”
But this to me sounds like an electronic failure or fault of some sensor, which normally I’d be okay with but the physical feeling of being pushed back is coming from the break pedal itself. Brake fluid flush hasn’t been done in some time, I’m tempted to remove both front wheels and just simply inspect both pistons.
If the universe wasn’t more ironic than it is, I JUST secured a set of 135i brake calipers. Front and rears. But I was hoping I didn’t have to install them for some time since last summer I installed Zimmerman rotors & akebono euro ceramics all around.
Not sure how to proceed besides inspecting the two front calipers since it feels like a front end lock up.
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Anybody know if the CF BMWP shift knobs for the F chassis cars fit the E46?
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Anyone know a place that sells weighted ZHP shift knobs with carbon fiber/alcantara?
trying to decide between the above two options as a replacement
Those who have taken their trunk handle off - was this gasket sandwiched between the handle and the trunk itself? I just took mine off to install a reverse camera and it was missing.
Yup, just sandwiched.Quote:
Originally Posted by t.er
Thank you. Luckily the local stealership is on-par with pricing from ECS Tuning (which is only $4 USD more than FCP Euro) with the conversion rate so at least I can install this fairly soon!Quote:
Originally Posted by Will
Anyone know of or use a good company for CF work? I wanna have an 8pc interior trim for sedan and steering wheel trim done?
I believe NelsonRacingWheel is a great company, Owner/Manager owns a ZHP coupe. I had shopped them for a dry carbon alternative to our cubed trim a while back but I wasn’t ready for the price at the time. Be ready to pay a premium, or at the very least source a set of wooden trim to do this on a spare set. Good luck!Quote:
Originally Posted by BADCLOWN
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Does anyone have a way of contacting terraphtm? Want some coding done and I know it’s something he could do. Lost track of him a while back and haven’t been able to get a response since
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I see his username somewhat frequently on Reddit. You could try PM’ing him on there if you’re a Reddit user.Quote:
Originally Posted by ZHP_Brandon
And FWIW it’s spelled TerraPhantm.
I don’t use reddit, I guess I’ll have to hop on there one of these days.Quote:
Originally Posted by 704sw
Thanks for that!
Sorry I haven’t responded, Tapatalk refuses to load any of my messages without an error message -_-.... or load a single photo
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Need ideas on what else could be wrong.
Naturally with all this shut down garbage the zhp sits a lot so i make an effort to drive it for about half hr every weekend, but when i come home and turn it off the oil light goes yellow and stays on for about 10 seconds.
- Checked the oil this Sunday and level seems fine
- Oil change was done Sep 2019 at 62.8k miles, and it’s at 64.6k now. Oil level sender was changed at this visit as well
- OPG was changed Oct 2018 at 57.7k miles
- Engine bay looks clean with no signs of leak
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Attachment 36594
Attachment 36595
It's a bit difficult to see the oil level from this picture, but the entire rectangular block was wet. Car must not have been leve where it was parked because if you flipped over the stick, the rectangular block was only wet 1/3 of the way up on the other side.
Has anyone experienced the pump the clutch 20 times till it starts? I replaced the clutch start switch already but it didnt fix it
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How’s your CCV? Might want to double check that system or tackle it in the future if you haven’t done so already, I had an intermittent light like that a few months back and it turned out to be a clogged CCV. After the cold months subsided I’ve recently taken it on a few long drives and it has some vacuum pressure again, but no where near as much as it should.Quote:
Originally Posted by NYRhockey
I’m doing an M56 valve cover instead personally
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I’m thinking level sensor is failing. The sensor is in the back left part of the pan where the deepest collection area is (see pic), so unless you were parked on an extremely steep nose-down slope I can’t imagine it being steep enough to trigger the light.Quote:
Originally Posted by NYRhockey
http://c1552172.r72.cf0.rackcdn.com/262942_x800.jpg
@NYRhockey
FYI the dipstick on these cars is an absolute sack of shit. I was getting the yellow oil light after shutdown with the dipstick looking fat & sassy like yours, so I'm like bruh that oil level sensor is going no doy.
Ordered a new one and went to replace it and only drained like 5qts from the pan
Stupid ass dipstick never even hinted at it being low
Fibreworks Composites in Moorseville, NC. They make parts for Haas F1 and more. If you talk to Alex, tell him Jim refered you. He's a BMW enthusiast as well.Quote:
Originally Posted by BADCLOWN
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Is that common across our cars? I live by the dipstick especially since I don't have a baffle yet so I always overfill for Autocross but if I can't trust the dip stick then my entire life has been a lie.Quote:
Originally Posted by ZHPizza
Quote:
Originally Posted by Dr Dynamite
I had that similar issue over a year ago and it randomly went away.
Have you added oil? You can easily over full by 1/2 qrt without issues. In fact, I overfill before every track day.Quote:
Originally Posted by NYRhockey
+1 to this. I probably check my oil every other, or every 3 weeks. Not sure how a dipstick can have inconsistent readings thoughQuote:
Originally Posted by Galapolis
Yup, this is what I do with each autox I've been doing. Doesn't quite solve lifter tick, but I feel it definitely helpsQuote:
Originally Posted by stephenkirsh
The dipstick is pretty accurate. Remember BMW has specific instructions for checking your oil, per your owner's manual.
The engine needs to be warmed up, the car on a perfectly level surface, and checked a few minutes after shutting the engine off.
You'll get a different reading when checking it cold versus engine warmed up a few minutes after shutting off.