Genuine BMW glass installed on the ZHP from Safelite. Excellent experience.
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Genuine BMW glass installed on the ZHP from Safelite. Excellent experience.
Sounds good! I remember the Pilkington brand from previous discussions. I'll check before they do the install.Quote:
Originally Posted by Galapolis
Hmm...that's smart - I might go that route with the windshield gasket.Quote:
Originally Posted by Vas
Great, that makes me a lot more comfortable. Thanks!Quote:
Originally Posted by az3579
I've had Pilkington and FYG windshields. FYG is an OEM for domestic brands. No issue with either windshield. Safelite just did it second time around after an Indy shop screwed everything up royally the first time. As long as you have an experienced tech you're solid. They did it perfect.
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Not a BMW question but ... does this mean something ? I have seen it in different places, and yesterday even noticed a car sticker. It was a VW Golf, BTW.
¯\_(ツ)_/¯
*shrug*, I dunno, oh well. that's basically what it is. like an emoji
exactlyQuote:
Originally Posted by sillieidiot
https://emojipedia.org/person-shrugging/
Repairable? Don’t want to have to buy another Vibrant, just worried about how much room I’ll have to cut. Already fully removed so the thing sounds mental right now.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...94654bdd1a.jpg
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Damn, how did that rust through
Quote:
Originally Posted by sillieidiot
Thank you, guys. I had no idea.Quote:
Originally Posted by pedro2u
Shop didn’t paint the welds and didn’t use a stainless steel Y-pipe. Lasted three years so hard to complain(?)Quote:
Originally Posted by BMWCurves
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it looks like it should be repairable. Just cut the section, replace and weld it again. You can paint it with high temp paint to help with rust and stuff too.
Does someone know if there is a way to raise the front suspension like you can on the rear with thicker spring pads? It doesn't look like BMW makes thicker pads for the front struts. I thought about putting spacers between the mount and the strut tower, but that wouldn't increase suspension travel so I'd rather not. My goal is to achieve the same stance as the Alpina B3 using Pro Kit springs, without spending 2k on the Alpina FE 3 suspension package.
Basically like this:
Attachment 36847
Has anyone had tapering brake pads before? At first I thought the left front wheel had significantly less pad than the right side, but it turns out the left was just severely tapered on the trailing (top) edge. My hypothesis is that since I did ~60ish laps on a right-handed track, there was just more load on that caliper which may have caused it to heat up. Both caliper slide pins on the bottom are completely striped so they don't tighten up, so perhaps the left side is binding under heavy braking? Another thing is that when I installed the pads, one of the inners was stubborn to clip into the piston, so I (stupidly) pushed it in a few times before realizing the end of the clip was going into the dust boot. No leakage but I might have damaged the dust seal on that caliper, so that may also be a potential cause?
The pedal also feels like complete crap now. I'm thinking it could be due to the fact that I swapped pads left and right, and now the right pad has some "springback" as it only contacts the pad on the leading edge, until you step on the pedal really hard and it forces the pad flat on the rotor. I'm going to try bleeding the brakes and see if that will help as well.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...139648f399.jpg
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...943e6442fe.jpg
I should probably know this due to your extensive thread but did you replace your calipers? It looks to me like the caliper is binding on one of the pins. You are supposed to replace the pins when doing a brake job. If you are still on original calipers the bushings are definitely done for as well. I was amazed at how much my new calipers slide around compared to my sticky old ones.
No, calipers are all-original, but I had no perceivable taper on my old no-name street pads. Yeah that's what I'm thinking too with the stripped guide pin, it's just odd how it seemed to bind on the top, where the top guide pins aren't stripped, and it's only on the left front. At least bushings are cheap, I may start with thatQuote:
Originally Posted by Galapolis
You don't really need new calipers if you get the rebuild kit. If you're gonna replace the bushings you might as well grab the kit from FCP as well. Much cheaper than new calipers and basically the same result. Your seals are most definitely toast too and I wouldn't be surprised if the piston is causing uneven wear because it's applying force unevenly.Quote:
Originally Posted by t.er
Quote:
Originally Posted by Galapolis
Have you tried double stacking the upper spring pads? Should be able to stack them on top of each other to make them thicker.
I've thought about that, I just wasn't sure if stacking pads was the best idea or if it would seat properly but I guess there isn't really much else I can do. I think I'll try two bottom pads and two upper pads. Should give me around 10mm more height.Quote:
Originally Posted by sillieidiot
I may have some used ones in the garage if you want to try themQuote:
Originally Posted by Galapolis
So I’ve run into this before, and it’s a multi piece puzzle. You have floating calipers, which aren’t as rigid as a fixed caliper, your guide bushings are shot, and your guide pins are stripped.Quote:
Originally Posted by t.er
Your calipers are definitely in need of a rebuild, and I strongly recommend you do them yourself. I rebuilt the 330i calipers I put on my sedan, and you can source the pistons and and piston seal from Rockauto, you want the centric brand for the seal. For the guide pins and bushings, you want to go to the brass guides. Bimmerworld and FCPEuro offer these, here’s a link: https://www.bimmerworld.com/Brakes/C...-Calipers.html
The beauty of the brass guides is that they deflect much less under heavy constant load, such as a track environment, preventing your tapered brake pads. It’s about as close as you can get our floating calipers to fixed calipers.
I wouldn’t do another track event with your current brakes, and I strongly suggest you keep a dedicated set of brake pads for only the track.
If you have any questions on rebuilding them, let me know, I’ve done it a couple of times now so I’ve gotten pretty good at it.
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Was actually gonna ask if I could borrow your non-deadly spring compressors. I feel like I've pushed my luck as far as it goes with my cheapo compressors. Still need to save up for Koni Special Actives though. And I guess that Vincebar is waiting for me too. So much to do...Quote:
Originally Posted by ZHPizza
Absolutely please use my compressor.Quote:
Originally Posted by Galapolis
I'm about to pull off my FSD's to install yellows if you want to try those. They're too soft for me so probably will be for you too though.
Too late, I've already pre-paid for another lapping session this Friday :duckingQuote:
Originally Posted by Chaplian
To mitigate potential issues I've helicoiled the carriers. The guide pins do tighten up, but not to spec - it feels like it'll strip again if too much torque is applied. Regardless, it's much better than before, where the threads were a clearance hole around the pins, so you could pull them out by hand. I'm also going to cut down stint length from 15-20 minutes, to 5-7 minutes at a time just so I don't get the calipers too hot.
https://i.imgur.com/FwY9Rk2l.jpg
I was thinking of picking up regular ATE rubber bushings, as I've heard mixed reviews on brass ones. How do you like them, and how often do you grease them?
Also when rebuilding calipers, do you happen to know if a tire pump will remove the piston? I do not have a compressor at home.
If you are willing to sell the FSD's I'll take them. I really liked the ride when I drove your car. Honestly I'd do anything to get away from my current setup. I have stiff Eibach sway bars, so I'm actually specifically looking for a really soft spring/shock combo. I'd encourage you to do a quick test drive in my car. You'll feel how bad it is almost immediately.Quote:
Originally Posted by ZHPizza
Also do you happen to have the Camry RTABS left over?
So I installed the brass bushings last fall. The pedal felt a little better afterwards. I still haven't regreased them. Should probably do that soon. Since you are going to the track pretty often the brass bushings make sense. Personally I would not install them again, but only because I mostly do street/mountain driving.Quote:
Originally Posted by t.er
Hmmm, these street brass guide pins look pretty good since they're sealed - thinking about getting thoseQuote:
Originally Posted by Galapolis
Yep, the ride is great but I'm chasing better steering response and hoping I can get that by cranking down the yellows. I'll try to get them installed soon and confirm that they're what I'm after so I can send the FSD's your way.Quote:
Originally Posted by Galapolis
I promised the Camry RTABs to someone else but I may actually have 3 and another one is like $25 so we can figure it out.
I looked at those too, but liked the ECS version better since it has internal o-rings to keep the grease inside the bushing. Just another part that's sitting in the garage waiting to be installed.Quote:
Originally Posted by t.er
http://www.zhpmafia.com/forums/showt...067#post593067
Oooooh thanks for linking that, I have about $70 credit from ordering the wrong short shift lever 3 years ago, then returning it. If shipping isn't too much then it might be a good buy along with my FCABs that I need, since the Meyle HDs over here are about $30 more expensive. Hmm, time to start thinking about what else to buy to make shipping cross-border worth it...Quote:
Originally Posted by ZHPizza
EDIT: Ugh god, the one bad thing about living in Canada. Shipping for the caliper bushings, install tool, and Meyle HD FCABs is $42 USD. Did a quick online calc for taxes & duties and it's another $40 USD on top of that. Might have to hold off on the caliper bushings for now and just pay the extra $30 to get Meyle HD FCABs locally
Nice guess I better source the final puzzle pieces. Which bump stops are the shortest? There are a few different options on FCP/Turner. Should I get Lemförder or Meyle HD rear shock mounts? I've heard very bad things about Meyle over at the German forums.Quote:
Originally Posted by ZHPizza
The RTABs aren't a priority, I just figured since I need to get an alignment again, I might as well fix my current RTABs, especially since you have the right tool. What would your recommendation be? I just need the squeaking to stop before I become crazy.
FWIW I have Meyle RSMs, no complaints from me so far. But I only have 20,000 km on them, along with 7 or 8 autox, and ~180 km of hard track drivingQuote:
Originally Posted by Galapolis
The stock bump stops can be cut down to whatever length you want. I don't know that you need to on this car though. We have a good amount of suspension travel with stock springs or your eibachs.Quote:
Originally Posted by Galapolis
I went with the Rogue RSMs and am happy that I did. They address a lot of the shortcomings of the stock RSMs while still providing good isolation. They're sleeved for 10mm shocks but can be used with 12mm without the sleeve, so you maintain some flexibility down the road.
There's really only two good options for the RTABs and they both have their strengths/weaknesses: OE rubber with limiters (I prefer Vorshlag limiters because they're made of UHMW, which is naturally lubricating and will never squeak) or spherical bearings. There is a lot of good discussion on the two across this forum and e46f, but it boils down to the sphericals being amazing but you pay the price when you hit an edge that hits the tire with a rearward force, which gets directed into the body via the solid bearing connection. Think like the front edge of a bridge - that gives a loud clang through the whole chassis. It's awful but they're wonderful over up/down transitions (railroad tracks) and make the rear end super planted coming out of a corner.
I have doubled stacked the upper pads before. Since the top of the spring is more flat (like the way the spring coils) there was no issues with seating. I think the bottom one might be a little bit harder to align, but should work.Quote:
Originally Posted by Galapolis
On my H&R sport springs, I was riding the bump stops for the longest time until I checked and realized that I had 0mm suspension travel, which explained why my ride was so trash. I cut off the first section front and back, checked again, and couldn't believe my eyes. I was STILL riding the bump stops. I cut them again so there's basically nothing left, but I knew in that moment that H&R was dead to me lol. Can't wait to get my Eibachs in. I just think I'm traumatized by the H&Rs, but I guess there isn't much choice again so I'll go ahead and order the bump stops from FCP.Quote:
Originally Posted by ZHPizza
As for the RTABs, I actually like the way it handles without bump steer or camber increase during compression, but according to the German guys, the reason why you shouldn't use poly or limiters is because the additional stress will eventually tear out your RTAB bracket mounting points in the chassis. Big yikes when I read that. They've had multiple failures over there with poly and limiters after taking their cars to the track. A street driven car might be able to get away with it.
That being said the German guys also say Bilstein is absolute trash so you gotta take their experience with a grain of salt.
I'm just not stoked about OEM bushings because of both the installation and removal process. Do let me know about the Camry RTAB. A sharp clunk over a few bumps definitely beats the CREAK CREAK CREAK every 5 seconds.
That's great news, I'll go ahead and order another set of pads. Thanks!Quote:
Originally Posted by sillieidiot
Ended up buying the Condor Speed Shop bushings all because of shipping cost. Only $11 USD for snail mail, I paid $20 USD for "2 day" shipping with DHL. Since it's made in USA import duties are only $12.Quote:
Originally Posted by t.er
The longer design with caps is certainly much better with grease retention than the short exposed ones. I don't mind re-greasing them once in a while, since I seem to swap tires every 2 or 3 weeks.
Hmm yeah I have poly RTABs, perhaps I should keep a close eye on the pockets. I haven't had any issues with them so far, with 7-8 autox and 1 hard track day. That being said I did see a video (that I cannot currently find) where an E46 had complete failure on track, the rear end jumped up in the air like a horse. At least on the English-speaking forums, I don't really see issues with E46s, just E36s as its a lot more common with those cars (as is rear shock towers cracks)Quote:
Originally Posted by Galapolis
Quote:
Originally Posted by Galapolis
+1 This was a huge problem on the e36 but that video is the only failure that I've seen from the e46Quote:
Originally Posted by t.er
Bear in mind the car was built for track-only and had been heavily abused for 17 years at the time of failure
Video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=J4zPECASIrs
Discussion: https://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/s...-failure-story
With limiters you're still isolating the body with the rubber bushing so I can't imagine it having any effect on the e46. I could definitely see it with a spherical bearing for the reasons mentioned above, but there are hundreds if not thousands of e46's on the track with spherical bearing RTABs.
I'm not gonna sweat it until my 15th track season lol
Hadn't seen that video yet, thanks for sharing. OE M3 bushings without limiters are sounding very attractive right now.Quote:
Originally Posted by ZHPizza
EDIT: Actually I need some help with the rear bump stop. FCP says this is not for sport suspension: https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/bmw...ar-33531136395
But it doesn't explicitly say sport suspension on the alternative: https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/bmw...06757047-vaico
Is that second one the correct part for sport or M package suspension?
You can get the kit which includes the bump stop and the plastic boot.
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Fyi the FSD kit came with bump stops and bellows for the rear:Quote:
Originally Posted by Galapolis
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...d0c4c6c632.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...649ed73589.jpg
Looks like I reused the front stuff though
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...b31a81dad6.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...c6ac3f28f6.jpg
Braking issues continue. Has anyone encountered these errors?
ABS:
- 5E1A CAM DME/DDE Signal Error
- 5E1F PT-CAN chassis number wrong/ECU not initialized
- 5E16 CAN Timeout instrument cluster
- 5E5D Brake_fluid_level low/Switch faulty
LEW:
- 0B Wrong LWS-ID
Some symptoms: Started noticing the red ABS light come on intermittently on track after using ABS. I didn't notice that before, but chalked that up as just a light that comes on when you use ABS a lot. No lights on the drive home, but today just driving around town I got the orange DSC light, and the red ABS light. Turned the car off, DSC light went away, but ABS light was still there. ABS still works. Got home and cleared all the codes, did a couple more ABS stops and the red ABS light came on again, but went away after a few seconds. Re-checked and still no codes.
Did some searching but at this point it could be a number of things. I have been taking advantage of ABS pretty heavily throughout my autox'ing and track. Until recently I haven't had any issues, but I'm thinking that with my pad taper and resultant very squishy pedal, the ABS module thinks the brake fluid is low, perhaps the other codes come along with that fault. What's puzzling me is the last code, which is new, not sure how the LWS-ID can randomly change.
Those with brass brake caliper bushings, how much play was there between the bushing and the caliper? I installed mine today and you can easily slide the bushing back and forth axially between the shoulder and the circlip, as there is an extra 3-4 mm in length than the caliper itself (seen in pic below). Seems like that fitment is looser than the bushing to the pin itself, so I would think the caliper would slide on the bushing before the pin on the bushing.
https://i.imgur.com/rnbCN5ml.jpg
There was no play on mine. I had to hammer mine in due to the tight tolerances. I used the BavAuto kit.