Do people have any recommendations for a good fender/paint protector pad when I'm leaning over the paint and hammering the DISA valve to make it work better?
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Do people have any recommendations for a good fender/paint protector pad when I'm leaning over the paint and hammering the DISA valve to make it work better?
I just wear soft clothes without zippers or buttons when i work on my car
Got any links to this microfiber onesie?Quote:
Originally Posted by papa_g
hahah now im seriously considering getting an old pair of sweats and sewing a bunch of microfiber towels on to it
Lol. Old soft gym shorts and a tshirr.
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Does anyone have any idea what bulbs these are and where I can find replacements? Probably around a decade ago I bought them from Khoalty and I have no idea what fitment these were, but they're my front turn signal bulbs that I changed to LED. I bought the capacitor with these bulbs so there wouldn't be any errors, and the bulbs have worked flawlessly--but they're amber and I'm looking for yellow. I've looked through everywhere on what kind of bulbs the ZHP coupes come with, and I'm convinced that the socket (maybe this is a capacitor, too?) is what has changed my bulb fitment. These are quite large wedge bulbs.
https://i.ibb.co/7Y75nRR/IMG-1819.jpg https://i.ibb.co/QCsv5Lr/IMG-1820.jpg
I believe these are the ones I bought from ZHPizza: https://www.ebay.com/itm/PAIR-T20-WY...S/273103981286
Interesting! So these are now T20 bulbs! I've been buying the OE wedge (T10 I believe?) fitment LEDs from various vendors and every single one I got was way too small. This might explain it. Does your setup look similar to mine?Quote:
Originally Posted by BMWCurves
Sort of? Here's the post in my maintenance thread about it, with a picture as well.
http://www.zhpmafia.com/forums/showt...766#post534766
Gotcha. Thanks for that. You just reminded me I should change my reverse lights too.
It'll look good. I'm all LED everything on the exterior. It just gives it an updated look for coupes, IMO.Quote:
Originally Posted by roddykaregaran
I got an LED interior kit from Khoalty also like a decade ago. I do have the rear license plate lights too, but I feel like the lighting is all just way too cool-white-blue in color. I wish it was a little warmer. But I haven’t done the reverse lights, yet!
Agreed, that's why I never went for LEDs in the interior, I like the warm color of incandescent bulbs.
So I am am rebuilding the shifter mechanism in the ZHP. Those of you that have done this, how in the actual heck do you get the shifter rod joint in? I wrestled with this darn thing for hours with no luck. I can’t seem to get it pushed on far enough to get the pin in.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...0177f328f3.jpg
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I mean it takes some force to compress the foam but it's nothing ridiculous. Try compressing it off the car and see how it feels. I was able to get it by pressing the joint with one hand and pushing the pin in from above with the other.Quote:
Originally Posted by JETSET303
7440Quote:
Originally Posted by roddykaregaran
There is something not right then. I am able to push the foam down and slide the pin in off the car pretty easily. The old pin was a bit of a bugger to get out. Thanks for the feedback.Quote:
Originally Posted by ZHPizza
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Quote:
Originally Posted by roddykaregaran
Bimmian.com but now changed to weisslicht.com Spektrum Bulbs.
Too bad. Bimmian was so user friendly. They supplied all of my Spektrum exterior lamps. I guess they sold their branding to Weisslicht. Not sure. Bimmian just suddenly dropped off the radar.
Hmm have you tried pushing the pin through the end of the shaft on the transmission? May have a burr or something holding it upQuote:
Originally Posted by JETSET303
It is a very tight fit. I will see if I can get a small rat-tail file in there and straighten it out.Quote:
Originally Posted by ZHPizza
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Man.... I’m doing all this refresh/maintenance on my car in the next week for 200k and I realized after researching so many things to do, that I haven’t changed my (edit: steptronic) transmission fluid nor my power steering fluid. I’ve read at this point a risk transmission failure if I change the fluid because it has been so long. Should I just leave it be you think? As far as the power steering fluid, that shouldn’t be a problem to change it should it?
I assume you have an automatic. You can change the fluid, just don't flush it.Quote:
Originally Posted by roddykaregaran
Yes, exactly—it is automatic. Thanks for that.Quote:
Originally Posted by az3579
Awesome. Thank you. My headlights + ccfl’s are still working flawlessly thanks to you, that day I came by your place. :oQuote:
Originally Posted by sillieidiot
Seems like many have faltered unfortunately.Quote:
Originally Posted by das boots
Anyone know what the part number is for the M logo on the steering wheel?
I think this is an OEM part, which doesn’t exist for our specific cars, but can be used on it if you cut out the backing with an exacto knife: 32332226479Quote:
Originally Posted by BADCLOWN
I saw this post a little while ago because I’m getting new emblems all over.
I’m having the steering wheel trim done in carbon fiber and need a new badge for it, I’ve heard steering wheel badges Off newer cars fit too. Can anyone advise?
How does that badge affix to our trim?
It's just glued in there. It'll pop right out if you pry on it.Quote:
Originally Posted by BADCLOWN
Only pic I have of it removed is after I wrapped the lower trim in vinyl but you get the ideahttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...0ab94b1a99.jpg
here's an old thread http://www.zhpmafia.com/forums/archi...hp/t-7893.html
in that thread:
I knew I'd seen a steering wheel with a similar emblem on an E30 M3 Evo in an old Bimmer magazine, and sure enough the M Tech wheel emblem found on some Euro models is an exact match. Only difference is it has a backing with two mounting studs that will need to be removed. No big deal, just carefully cut it off with an Exacto knife and glue/epoxy the emblem in place.
Part number is 32 33 2 226 479, $10.00 from the BMW Parts Store
So I guess this would suffice:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/274483716489
hmmm, that looks like the one for wheels..... but might work
or this one that needs the tabs cut off (as per the old thread) https://www.ebay.com/itm/Genuine-BMW...-/323358296185
Does anyone know what would cause this? This is after 1 track day with HPS pads and Zimmermann rotors. I know, I know... HPS aren't meant to be track pads, but I haven't had any issues with them aside from going through pad material like crazy. I ran 4 track days with the first set I bought and the rotors had a bit of grooving, but nothing abnormal. Pad thickness is about equal inside and out, from what I can see without taking the caliper off.
Truth be told it might be my fault because I didn't bed the pads in when I replaced them - however I thought that was only necessary when switching pad compounds, and since I was replacing old HPS pads with new HPS pads, I wouldn't have to do so. Perhaps that would do it?
https://imgur.com/xt1rKhyl.jpg
https://imgur.com/RdbCHy7l.jpg
Holy shit. Looks like you melted the pads to the rotors lol. I'd definitely ask the track group on nam3f
That's pretty normal after a track day, at least to me. That's what my rotors look like after a day with my PFC 011 pads.
As long as braking performance is normal then don't worry about it. :)
Lol thank god for FCP warranty, I'm making very good use of itQuote:
Originally Posted by ZHPizza
Wow, that's insane, was it just superficial or could you also feel grooving? I thought it was superficial but if you run your finger across it, you can feel all the ridges, the rotor is definitely scrapped/dented. Braking performance didn't have nearly the bite it had when new (basically no bite) and stopping power was a bit reduced, but it wasn't horrible. Was still able to set my PB by a huge margin but also had coilovers and cooler weather which helped. No vibrations but the pads and rotors are really noisyQuote:
Originally Posted by az3579
I've never been to the track and my rotors look the same as yours, except I don't have pad material burnt into them. But I do have lots of grooves that can be felt. I'm also using OEM rotors (Hella Pagid) and Hawk HPS. My braking performance feels the same as always. The noise is normal too with the HPS pads.
lol yeah most of my customer's with CCFLs are still working somehow. And people said that weren't reliable. Shit lasted like 10+ years.Quote:
Originally Posted by roddykaregaran
Did you fade your pads? With HPS', you probably had brake fade, and probably cooked your brake fluid too. That will result in worse pedal feel.Quote:
Originally Posted by t.er
Quote:
Originally Posted by Galapolis
Yeah stopping power did decrease slightly, but no significant fade to the point where I had any "o shit moments" where I'd go in too hot and go off. Didn't get a chance to check the pads or the fluid yet. I think next year I'm going to swap to something more track-oriented like DTC-60 for the front. If brake bias isn't too messed up, leave HPS on the rear since I'm still on my 1st set with plenty of meat left.Quote:
Originally Posted by az3579
Hypothetically speaking..... if I found a 325xit with a blown motor........ I would have to source a M54B30 xi motor to do a proper swap right?........ then I’d have to simply pay for an EWS delete for it to run, correct?
Asking for a friend lol
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So this happened today. Lightly braked at a stop sign and the whole dang panel dropped from the ceiling. Anyone know how difficult it’d be to get a hand on another part/fix these snapped friction clips? (Sunroof wire was cut previously as a quick fix to accidentally opening the off-track sunroof)
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...b24fc1033f.jpg
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...3c1eb93140.jpg
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