I had the same problem until I decided to screw it and purchased a new panel.Quote:
Originally Posted by Prestovie
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I had the same problem until I decided to screw it and purchased a new panel.Quote:
Originally Posted by Prestovie
Ah shoot alright, kinda figured it’d be one of those “easier bought” fixesQuote:
Originally Posted by das boots
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Do 10mm hubcentric spacers fit on the rear on our cars? I know the front doesn't work but I've seen people run them in the rear and just wanted to confirm.
It's the same for front and rear. If your spacer sits flush against the hub, then it should be fine. Worst case, you just shave a bit of the lip on the hub so that the spacer can sit flat. I've seen people run it on both. It just comes down to the tolerances of your car pretty much.Quote:
Originally Posted by Galapolis
There is a second generation of this bulb available. I am looking to replace the front turn signal bulbs in my 2006 convertible:Quote:
Originally Posted by roddykaregaran
Philips X-tremeUltinon gen2 Amber LED WY21W (Twin) x 1
https://www.powerbulbs.com/us/produc...en2-wy21w-twin
Attachment 37353
@BMWCURVES: You mentioned this in another post:
No bulb out warnings either. I'd code out the cold checks through PA Soft, but my old laptop that had the software decided to go kaput while I was away in DC (it was 13 years old doe).
Are you saying I can direct swap these bulbs without having to code out the bulb out warning on the car? Direct plug and play?
Thanks!
Whatever bulbs I stuck in (X-Treme Ultinon T20 Amber LED Y20 (WY21), 180lm) are plug n' play, and I later turned off the cold checks. No issues in the three-ish years I've had them in.Quote:
Originally Posted by sna77
Info here let's see if this worksQuote:
Originally Posted by sna77
https://r.tapatalk.com/shareLink/top...ink_source=app
FS: Badass Amber LEDs for facelift coupe turn signals
Awesome, thanks!Quote:
Originally Posted by BMWCurves
OK... My 06 convertible is coming back next week-- at a BMW indy shop being rebuilt. Coding was today, so all should be whatever the final software release for the car was.Quote:
Originally Posted by ZHPizza
Looks like I need to find my old software cable, my old laptop, and remember how to use PA Soft. Anyone know how to use it that wants to do a screen share with me? :)
So these Philips LED bulbs just came in... They have a large pack connected to them. Were yours like this? If so, where did you stick this thing?
Attachment 37364
They did not include that...ballast? Regulator(s mount up)? I have no idea what that thing is.
that looks like a resistor pack to me. use the bulbs and turn off all the checks. then you don't have to install that huge thing
Turning off the checks isn't going to solve the hyperflash you get if you don't install it.Quote:
Originally Posted by sillieidiot
Unless the bulbs specify they are CANBUS bulbs, you'll need to use the resistor pack. In this case, the box states a CANBUS adapter is included; that means it's a resistor pack.
Looking at the package--I don't see anything about CANBUS compatibility. To confirm, these 1st gen Philips bulbs dont have the resistors and are simply plug and play...?Quote:
Originally Posted by az3579
Attachment 37367
I haven't seen any CANBUS bulbs from any of the "name brand" manufacturers (Philips, Sylvania, etc.); they all require resistors. If it doesn't come in the package, then it will need a separate resistor. The Sylvania bulbs I purchased for the touring, for example, required resistors that had to be purchased separately.Quote:
Originally Posted by sna77
Based on my searches, the no-name brand aftermarket is where the CANBUS bulbs seem to be. Those are bulbs that have the resistors built-in, which eliminate hyper-flash.
Yes, the Japanese ones were plug and play with no errors or hyperflash. We only disabled the hot/cold checks because it makes them flicker like a damn strobe at startup (cold check) and randomly (hot checks).Quote:
Originally Posted by sna77
@az3579 it's a facelift coupe thing...you wouldn't understand lol
your box didnt have the resistors included, and you just didnt use them, correct?Quote:
Originally Posted by ZHPizza
Hope it's also a facelift convertible thing lol.
Nope no resistors in the box. Coupe and vert have the same lights so you should be fine. I think I have another pair of the Japanese ones I can send you if they do throw an error.Quote:
Originally Posted by sna77
Yeah, I have the same ones as ZHPizza and the box included just the bulbs. No resistors. No issues.
Quote:
Originally Posted by ZHPizza
I wrote PowerBulbs where I bought the bulbs. This was the response:Quote:
Originally Posted by BMWCurves
Hello,
Thank you for your email.
I can confirm that the bulbs purchased are second generation. More recent Philips products have included a canbus adaptor along with the bulbs which just saves individuals making another purchase if they run into canbus issues.
The bulbs can be installed on their own, with the adaptor being used as a sort of backup option if you run into problems. We find that some vehicles do need the adaptor while others do not, but if you see warning signs on your dashboard pop up after installing the bulbs on their own then the adaptor will have to be used.
If we can help answer any further questions you may have please get back in touch.
Kind regards,
PowerBulbs
Anyone know fore sure what color grilles came on the sedan from the factory? I assume it is chrome surround and chrome slats, but I am not sure. I also figured the info is in this forum somewhere, but I did several searches and didn't find it. The chrome surround with black slats is an alternate and not stock, correct?
Thanks!
Chrome and black slabs is stock in the US. Full chrome is Euro spec. At least on a base 330i. Might be different for other models.Quote:
Originally Posted by malapane
Interesting. This car has the chrome slats. I was pretty sure they were original. I didn't expect someone had changed out the black slat grilles for chrome.Quote:
Originally Posted by Galapolis
My '06 ZHP coupe came originally with the chrome slat grilles - 51137064317 & 51137064318.Quote:
Originally Posted by malapane
The ZHP is different from the base model. MSport is also different, that came with shadowline grills.
Mine came with chrome slats tooQuote:
Originally Posted by malapane
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...3231554347.jpg
I'm 95% sure looking at old photos of my car that it too had silver slats with silver surround on the stock grille.
I was just looking at some 2005 brochures. The ZHP sedan shows with black slats and most other models (non ZHP) with silver slats. Same thing in the 2005 convertible brochure
Pretty sure the ZHP came with chrome grilles. Mine came with chrome grilles and that's what you usually see when somebody buys one. But black grilles are a popular mod.
Fixed that for you!Quote:
Originally Posted by holyc0w
I was worried I said upgrade for a second. I do like the chrome grilles.Quote:
Originally Posted by John in VA
I agree that the black grilles are popular, I've done both my ZHP and my E92, but the twist here is that in the brochure the ZHP's had chrome outlines and black slats like this:Quote:
Originally Posted by holyc0w
It also has a European style plate holder, so I'm not sure how much value I would place on that. Personally, I've only seen that chrome outside, black inside grille on a ZHP once and I believe they were either modified or replacements.Quote:
Originally Posted by pedro2u
it seems all the brochures have European plates..... but I kind of like that grille more than the total black out lookQuote:
Originally Posted by holyc0w
But Europe never got the ZHP, so that doesn't really say anything. I guess that based on the responses, we can deduce:Quote:
Originally Posted by pedro2u
330i base US: black slabs
330i base EU: chrome slabs
ZHP: chrome slabs
MSport: shadowline
Not sure about the difference between sedan and coupe, if there is any.
I hear ya. I can't defend why they put European plates in the US brochure, but look at pages 8 and 9 in the attached brochure where they highlight our "Performance Package" which as we know was only offered here in the states. Go figure :dunno
They did put US plates in the Owner's Manual however
Ah OK, so the first couple of pages are obviously Euro spec cars. That red ZHP pic looks like it just has a Euro plate photoshopped on (though it might just be the lighting that's weird). But yeah, almost all press photos are gonna be taken in Europe with Euro cars, so they just reuse those for brochures around the world. It wouldn't make sense to spend millions to take pictures of the car in every country it will be sold in.Quote:
Originally Posted by pedro2u
Well, generally when they mention CANBUS, it's actually a microcontroller that talks to your car and tells your car it's load and stuff. You can have CANBUS bulbs and still have hyper-flashing. But most aftermarket CANBUS actually uses a capacitor. Sometimes it's a combination of both capacitor and load resistor. There are resistors that are part of the LED bulb already to account for the voltage drop as well. The main issue for the hyper-flash is actually because those bulbs aren't drawing enough current on their own. But most of the time, if you're buying anything that says high powered LED or something like that, it should have enough current on it's own.Quote:
Originally Posted by az3579
Honestly, I would stick the bulbs in there without the packs and see if they work before going through the trouble of installing everything. It's not hard to swap the turn signal bulbs out.
The dealer wrote down this note on my last ZHP visit: "Rear brakes may need attention next visit. Rear brake pads at 5 mm".
The pads are OEM. How many miles do you think I still have available ? Most of my drive is in the city. No auto-X or track use.
Lots of different opinions on miles or mm.....
I say everyone's mileage will be different based on how they drive, but assuming a new pad is 10-12mm, and assuming you expect the same driving pattern to continue, how many miles have you driven on the pads to get to 5mm?
Then you can calculate approximate miles per mm, and use that number to calculate how many miles you could drive to get to 2 or 3mm...... or whatever thickness is your desired replacement point
Good logic, Pete. PO replaced the pads around 60k miles ago. This means 12k miles is wearing out 1 mm of pad. Sounds like I still have plenty of miles to go.