What brand pulleys do people use? INA? Meyle?
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What brand pulleys do people use? INA? Meyle?
Ina is the preferred brand.
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DankeQuote:
Originally Posted by Vas
Ina is the original manufacturer for bmw
Could anyone with the mounting bracket for their Gruppe M intake provide dimensions? I would love to get one fabricated.
Got an "FEQ" wheel bearing as part of a free stash of parts someone was giving away on kijiji. My current bearings are original at 345,000 km and are still fine, but at some point I'll have to do them - does anyone know if these FEQ brand are good quality?
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No experience with FEQ, but I tend to avoid it if it's made in China.Quote:
Originally Posted by t.er
There is a thread on nam3forum about driveshafts, but the thread sidetracked to half-shafts and a member reported disappointing results with FEQ (and another Chiense brand, if I recall correctly).
Maybe not worth the hassle of doing the job twice.
Hmmm yeah when the time comes I'll spring for an FAG hub/bearing assembly. On first impressions it seems like a quality part, but who knows, the bearing could blow after 10 or 20,000 kmsQuote:
Originally Posted by Will
You definitely do not want China bearings.
That FEQ looks decent to me. If I see a stamped ABS ring on the wheel bearing, I consider it cheap, but if it is cast, I would run it. I'd buy it off you if shipping from Canada wasn't so expensive.
If you're interested I can get a quote, just pay price of shipping and it's yours. It'll likely be around $20-25 to ship, I sold a set of camber plates on here and that was about how much it was to California.Quote:
Originally Posted by MINIz guy
Won't be able to get around to it until early next month though - I ship it through a cross-border company who forwards it to UPS. They are located in Toronto and I won't be back in town until then
Can’t figure out my alarm situation for the life of me. The lock/unlock/alarm chimes are all low volume. I’ve changed the hood sensor, and it’s still low. It makes a sound audibly but it’s so quiet you have to literally put your ear on the driver’s side of the front hood.
Any searches I’ve done come up with some weird ambiguous results. When I engage the alarm by holding the trunk button you can definitely hear it but it’s not blaring loud like I’ve heard before. It sounds pretty quiet for a car alarm.
I'm sure u just need to replace the siren for the alarm . Is behind the air cabin filter . Not that hard to get too.Quote:
Originally Posted by roddykar
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It’s new! Unless it’s defective. I installed it myself. It’s weird I can definitely hear it when I engage the alarm. But it’s for sure quieter than it should be.
You still think it’s the actual siren itself?
I’ve done a bump test and it activated the alarm, so the trunk sensor is good.
Did the front hood sensor test by holding my finger on the button while locking, lifted my finger after 30 sec and it activated the alarm.
Did the interior motion sensor test with a window rolled down and that activated the alarm too after I waved my hand in it.
I read somewhere briefly it means something is wrong or the alarm is not properly engaged. Can’t find that thread anymore but it was useless beyond that info anyway. Not sure if that’s even true or not.
I still think is the siren itselfQuote:
Originally Posted by roddykar
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It's damaged or defective. I had a similar issue with a used one and the replacement worked perfect. I read somewhere that they can be damaged being dropped or banged around.
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Originally Posted by rguti153
Thank you guys. Guess I'll get a new one and try that out. I'll keep this thread posted with the results. Is the e46 one to get or the e39? Heard both work, but diff sounds.Quote:
Originally Posted by PdZHP
I'm not sure wonder what e39 sound like now lolQuote:
Originally Posted by roddykar
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anyone know any companies that will do vortech/VF supercharger kit tunes for our cars? the VF engineering kit comes with a standard 6psi tune and they stated they cant do any other tunes. I would love to get a tune for that kit at 8-9psi max.
go custom then lol with frank smith maybe.Quote:
Originally Posted by BADCLOWN
Anyone order anything really large from the BMW Mini part store? Thinking of ordering the euro front bumper from them, it's not a bad price with the coupon code roundel. Only thing is they cannot provide a shipping quote when I go to place the order. Emailed them a couple days ago and haven't heard back yet. They also don't list a phone number anywhere
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Pretty sure that site is run by the BMW Store in Cincinnati, just call that dealer and ask for parts and it's probably the same staff filling the orders.Quote:
Originally Posted by t.er
I order from them pretty often. Great people to deal with for genuine bmw partsQuote:
Originally Posted by t.er
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Originally Posted by alexandre
Great thanks! Will give them a call tomorrow.Quote:
Originally Posted by Vas
Damn. They won't ship big body panels like the bumper... with roundel code it'll be like $475 before taxes & other fees. I just called my local dealer and they want $1130 CAD!!! :eyetwitch
Dealer prices for parts are absurd here. Looks like you're taking a road trip to Cincinnati :dunnoQuote:
Originally Posted by t.er
Have you considered importing one from the UK or Germany? You've already figured out that shipping is much cheaper over there than here.Quote:
Originally Posted by t.er
Lol, might be a bit tough given the current border situation...Quote:
Originally Posted by alexandre
Latvia actually, E-Acca or Cars245. E-Acca doesn't list shipping cost but Cars245 seems to only charge $60-80Quote:
Originally Posted by Galapolis
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Do itQuote:
Originally Posted by t.er
Wow these shops are great, didn't know these existed!Quote:
Originally Posted by t.er
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Originally Posted by Galapolis
Yeah ordering from Europe is the best for these kinds of things... when I got my Sparco bucket seat I got it for ~$500 CAD or so out of a store in Italy. To my door including shippings + taxes it ended up being right around $700 CAD. And I could easily sell it on kijiji or fb marketplace for $850 or $900.Quote:
Originally Posted by alexandre
Still doing more research and found a couple more places, one of which is LLL Parts out of the UK. 400 Euros is a pretty good price, especially if shipping isn't too much!
Decided not to go with an euro bumper, actually decided not to get my front bumper repaired at all. I threw some touch-up paint over the scrape a few days ago and from 10 ft away it really isn't bad. Of course when you get up close you see the scrape along with all the peeling clear and rock chips on the whole thing, but given how much I track/autox I really don't want to have to "care" for new front bumper paint. I also might be having another cross-country road trip towards the fall, and again it's just so nice to be worry-free with the front bumper.
I did spend a decent amount of time researching where to get a good deal on the euro bumper though. I've found that OEMVWShop has the best price with shipping. LLL Parts was even better at just over 400 Euros but they won't ship to Canada. E-Acca wanted 200 Euros to ship.
Going to get the rear bumper fixed for sure though, that one really bugs me
Fuuuuuuuq
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Any ideas? Easiest solution is bondo fibreglass repair kit but I'm not too keen on it. Or I guess I can hire a mobile welder...
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Is that the battery tray? There's a big thread on nam3f on that if soQuote:
Originally Posted by t.er
No, one of the spots under the rear footwell where the drain plugs go. I did see that thread (and will be looking into it as well) but the sheet surrounding the plug has fully rusted through.Quote:
Originally Posted by ZHPizza
I have an appointment with the body shop on the 28th for my rear bumper. I may just leave the interior stripped and patch the hole with a few layer of duct tape in the meantime if he can weld it shut.
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Damn that sucks! Yeah, that thread on nam3f for battery tray was pretty good; time for wire wheel, weld, POR15, and some chassis sealant (or just get some bedliner material).
Luckily my battery tray is fine. Some very minor surface rust that can just be treated and painted.Quote:
Originally Posted by Will
I'm taking the easy way out, but for good reason. Slept on it and decided to just fibreglass it - the hole is twice the size of what is was originally, but in the grand scheme of things still relatively small so it's not that structural. And having prior composites experience definitely helps, a good repair will be sufficiently strong.
Grinded back the top and bottom of the panel big enough for a good amount of healthy metal exposed, for the fibreglass and resin to latch onto. Before doing so, going to treat the metal to POR15 metal ready to prevent cancer spread. Then apply multiple layers of plain or twill weave fabric (not chopped-strand mat that comes with the 3M kit) with differing fibre orientations on the top and bottom. Then POR15 paint and top coat with stone chip guard.
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Nice work, man. Glad you caught it relatively early and got it addressed.
Thanks! Just gotta spray a couple coats of rubberized rock chip guard, and it'll blend in much better. It is pretty solid - 10 layers of plain weave fibreglass, distributed between the top and bottom of the hole.Quote:
Originally Posted by Will
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On another note does anyone know what this is? It came out when I removed my battery. I'm reinstalling it now and it seems it's not needed. Had a quick glance at realOEM and I don't see it
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Wow, 10 layers of fiberglass. ...So ZHPizza building airplanes and you're building boats.
That looks like part of the screw clamp for securing the battery cable terminal to the battery post.