Thanks Charlie, av8drvr, Galapolis!
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Thanks Charlie, av8drvr, Galapolis!
I've been thinking more about spacers recently. I've had 12mm spacers in the past and they were too much. Too wide for my taste. I'm looking at getting something in the 7mm range, front and back. Front won't be a problem thanks to the Turner hub extenders. But do the hub extenders work on the back as well?
by hub extender, do you mean spacers? Ive just never heard the term before.
I run 10mm spacers front and rear with extended lug nuts in order to clear my BMWP BBK utilizing the 135 wheels. Zero issues and rides/handles just fine
I do mean hub extender, both Turner and VAC make one: https://www.turnermotorsport.com/p-2...xtenders-pair/Quote:
Originally Posted by BADCLOWN
I've thought about 10mm too, but it's really hard to decide whether to go with hubcentric 10mm or 10mm + hub extender. Especially because I've read that 10mm hubcentric spacers don't fit in the front because the hub is wider in the front than the back. I'd still prefer something in the region of 7mm.
Never even heard of those before, learn something new every day.
My 10mm fronts that I have are to the best of my understanding hubcentric. Fits snug on the hub and the wheel in turn fits snug on the spacer.
no they don't work in the rear. It's like a cone shape in the rear so they would just fall out.Quote:
Originally Posted by Galapolis
Thanks, so what would you do in the rear for small spacers?Quote:
Originally Posted by sillieidiot
Beats me lol I just ran more aggressive wheels. Now that I have m3 rear fenders. I probably need bigger spacers or just all new wheels lolQuote:
Originally Posted by Galapolis
like I said, I run a 10mm spacer in the rear with zero issues on my 135 w/ stock tire sizes. I think you can go up to a 12-15mm on stock tire size with the 135 wheels and not have any clearance issues
I used to rub in the rear with 12mm spacers with stock camber. Now I have less camber so even 10mm might not fit. Definitely don't want to go with more than 7mm but I guess that won't be possible in the back.
I guess I could try going ultra conservative with 3mm to 5mm, but I'm not sure if that's worth it or if 5mm rear even works. I guess 5mm front and 3mm rear might be an option.
I had 10mm spacers on my rear 135s with Michelin Pilot AS4 tires (in stock 255 size) and experienced some rubbing. My rear fenders are not touched...Quote:
Originally Posted by BADCLOWN
Yeah that's what I would expect on untouched sedans based on my experience. The rear really seems to be the limiting factor here. Kinda sucks because the front can take pretty much any spacer size thanks to the hub extenders. I think I might just give 3mm all around a shot. I'm really love super subtle changes but I wonder if this might be too subtle even for me.Quote:
Originally Posted by cakM3
That's what I'm doing. I put on 3mm spacers up front since adding my Wilwood BBKs there... no issues as far as I know... I have sourced 3mm hub centric spacers for my rear wheels.Quote:
Originally Posted by Galapolis
I don’t know how any of you has rubbing issues with a 10mm. I am lowered on coilovers and when I swap over to my stock wheels/tires for winter storage I have zero rubbing issues. Like, none. and still could probably my run 12-15mm. My fenders are also haven’t been modified.
IDK, weird. but if you cant fit a 10mm you cant fit a 10mm.
Tire size also plays a factor. Even with the same designated tire size, the actual size varies between manufacturers and also between the tires within a manufacturer.
I had this over in my project thread but didn't get a clear answer: for end links, what are acceptable non-BMW branded end links? Lemfoerder? BMWs are $50 each, but other brands are <$20. Would love to save some money.
Lemförder would be the go to. I currently have Meyle HD and they have lasted me longer than Lemförder, but I don't think that's going to be a concern if you are running stock sway bars.Quote:
Originally Posted by BMWCurves
I'm using Status Gruppe Tuning adjustable end links and not having issues with them :thumbsupQuote:
Originally Posted by BMWCurves
https://statusgruppe.com/product/bmw...way-bar-links/
Anyone replace the rear quarter panel window seal in a sedan? The internet is flooded with videos and DIYs of coupes but nothing in a sedan and mine is actually flaking off around the window so I'd like the replace it.
The part in question: BMW-51348194693
When do folks replace the hard coolant lines under the intake manifold? Im at 205k miles and haven’t done it yet.
Same question about the control arms as well.
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I'd say you're on borrowed time with the coolant lines. I haven't had failure, but replaced them "while in there" at 125k.Quote:
Originally Posted by san
Control arm bushings can be shot at 60k. Ball joint life span can depend on how it's driven.
Any “while I’m in there” components i can replace when I replace the coolant line?Quote:
Originally Posted by John in VA
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Since/if the intake manifold is coming off, the sky's the limit! Much of the stuff on my car was original/16 years old, so I started at the radiator & worked back to the firewall to include all heater hoses - water pump, tensioners, belts, fan blade, expansion tank, coolant hoses, intake gaskets, valve cover gasket, sparkplugs, oil filter housing gasket, power steering reservoir & hoses, CCV parts. Probably forgot something!Quote:
Originally Posted by san
I replaced it at 80k. There were some broken plastic bits on the inside. I only did it cause SC will be a bitch to take off later.Quote:
Originally Posted by san
- I did the dip stick o-rings (got viton for the bottom one)
- since you're taking off the manifold, you'll need the intake gaskets.
- The starter. People say it's easier with the transmission out, but I think it's easier with the intake manifold out.
- I also replaced the lower hose that connects to one of the coolant hard lines
- That stupid fuel vent hose that connects to the side of the intake manifold, I replaced that with a way longer one lol
- Since you're taking off like all the intake stuff, clean TB, TB gasket, clean/replace ICV, ICV gasket, DISA/gold DISA, new intake hoses/air filter
- CCV and all the hoses connected to it
- clean the fuel injectors (didn't do this cause my injectors will be replaced)
while you're in there is dangerous lol I replaced some other things along the way. But it wasn't related to being under the manifold. But it was just easier since it wasn't in the way.
I’ve replaced everything from your list except for intake manifold gasket. So I will add that. Isn’t there a coolant temp sensor somewhere on the engine block which is accessible only when the intake manifold is removed?Quote:
Originally Posted by John in VA
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Is it just me or do the fog light trims come off really easy? I just noticed the right side on mine is just... gone. And pulling off the other side took next to no effort:
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...827d52f0c3.jpg
Grrrrr I have to see at finding a used one. Or see if there is an aftermarket one for cheap
Edit: huuuuuh turns out new is only like $20. I thought it would cost an arm and a leg
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I think 13-62-1-433-076.Quote:
Originally Posted by san
Thanks Will!Quote:
Originally Posted by Will
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Anyone know what this clip is? Found it to the right of the throttle pedal while vacuuming.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...1eb921b1e6.jpg
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I personally swapped my dash and carpets from grey to black. There is nothing back there that uses that. It probably got stuck to your shoe and you pulled it into the carQuote:
Originally Posted by t.er
The only thing I could think of is that it could be a retainer clip for one of the clutch lines. But I remember them being more squiggly lol
Quote:
Originally Posted by Hermes
Yeah, did some searching and didn't come up with anything. Not gonna worry about it but going to keep it on the side. Thanks guys!Quote:
Originally Posted by sillieidiot
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Think of the weight reduction you'll get without that piece
:roflQuote:
Originally Posted by holyc0w
I recently set a personal best time at the track... maybe me installing the tow hitch helped with the weight distribution!
Anyone know where to get a good set of LED reverse bulbs?
I use these:Quote:
Originally Posted by BADCLOWN
https://www.ebay.com/itm/2x-1156-751...-127632-2357-0
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I have these in my car and like them a lot:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Thanks for the recommendations. I just realized yesterday I never put LEDs in my reverse lights when I went to try and figure out why my passenger side LED tail light doesn’t light up when the HL switch is turned. Lights up when I hit the brakes but doesn’t stay lit with the switch turned
This will be my first Winter in Utah with my 05 coupe. Originally my plan was to park the ZHP during Winter months (driveway, uncovered unfortunately) and drive my older Tundra until the state stops salting the roads in early Spring. However, as I consider the impact to the ZHP in being parked for several months (need for fluid refresh come Spring, flat spots on tires, mice?? etc etc), does it make more sense to simply drive the ZHP occasionally and just make a point of washing regularly to reduce wear and tear from salt exposure? Curious on everyone's opinion one way or the other.
I would just drive it on dry days when the salt will have the least impact and wash the undercarriage regularly like you said.
We never had a problem with mice because we have a cat and litter box in the garage, but there are ways around things like flat spots. There’s a whole thread on long term storage on the forum somewhere
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