Propane torch
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not even... way easier. ;)
loosen ball joint nut. then, get a ball joint tool - either the pry bar type or the threaded-stud type - install and put the ball joint in tension, the tap the outside of the tie rod end (at the ball joint) with a 5lb sledge. you don't have to kill it, just tap it with some authority. it will come out.
living in the northern climate as long as i have... you learn these tricks.
Even in summer, additional heat really helps with touch-up paint. I'll wash, clay, and handle the touch-ups after work this evening. Then I'll leave some incandescent lamps shining on the areas overnight to expedite/reinforce the curing. Larry Kosilla (AmmoNYC) has a pretty great video on his paint touch-up method, which worked quite well on the X3 a couple years ago.
Hank Hill would be proud of your recommendation. Unfortunately, I lack the necessary propane and propane accessories.
This will be helpful when I get to it. I guess I'll just order some Lemmy control arms from FCP today.
Two questions: I read somewhere the FCABs are single use, meaning even if the bushings are good/fresh, they're not intended to be used again if I swap the arms. Is this correct?
Second: is there a way to test the ball joints (read: confirm they are bad) without dropping the arm and moving the stud around like a joystick? This is, of course, assuming those aren't seized too.
New wiper blades. It had the Bosch icons and my OCD only allows the older model, original blades with the spoiler on the driver side blade. It's weird, I know.
Yesterday did some improvements to the ZHP's lair. Installed some roof shelving and some more wall shelving.
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Installed a new fuel pump relay as preventative maintenance. Also wired up the AEs using a fuse tap and connecting it to fuse #23.
I did a thing
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Not a fan of black leather and black cube so great job.