ok, that's good to know. I was having a hard time finding a laptop with XP. I found one with win 7 and I was just going to use compatibility mode, which seemed like kind of a pain.
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ok, that's good to know. I was having a hard time finding a laptop with XP. I found one with win 7 and I was just going to use compatibility mode, which seemed like kind of a pain.
I found one on amazon. I just did a search for "BMW 1.4"Quote:
Originally Posted by eimkeith
That is known as "PA Soft" or "BMW Scanner 1.4". That comes with the software as well as its own cable. This is not compatible with the standard BMW tools out-of-the-box, so don't expect to use it with anything other than PA Soft.Quote:
Originally Posted by Oltorf
You'll need a K-CAN cable for standard BMW software such as INPA/WinKFP/NCS Expert/ISTA-D/ISTA-P (BMW models up to 2006).
I'm going to DL ISTA+/P for now, it looks like. I'll look into those other programs after I get my diagnostics and some other stuff done.
I just realized that I can use my work computer. I don't have to buy another laptop. That's rad.
I have no experience with ISTA+ but here is a beginners guide to ISTA+. The document claims no programming for E series but diagnostics are available.
"ISTA+ can be used to diagnose ALL cars BUT program only F-/I-/G-/Mini/RR series cars and beyond. E Series Programming is not supported in ISTA+."
So for your E53 and E46, I would stick to BMW Tools for diagnostics and advanced coding and BMW Scanner 1.4 for simple code clearing and simple coding changes. One thing BMW Scanner will do is modify EEPROM data so changing the temp gauge buffer and changing VIN and mileage when swapping out LCM and even changing the heat settings on heated seats. As I said in my earlier post, I have everything I need with the 2 software programs I listed. Again, I have zero experience with ISTA+ so I don't want to say you don't need it.
Beginners Guide to ISTA+
I've programmed an E46 M3 DME with ISTA-P before, and used it to program a brand new LCM in an E46 325xi. Not sure why they would say it can't be used for E-chassis cars.
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The cable I bought doesn't have a switch for k-line or d-can mode. I keep reading that pins 7 and 8 need to be bridged on cars made earlier than 2007, and that's what the switch does. I guess i'll see if this cable works, and if it doesn't, i'll try to solder them together.
solder a wire to pins 7 and another wire to 8 and drill a small hole in the casing bring both wires out. twist them together when you use them on our cars K line and and untwist them when you use them with D Can cars.. e90, e60 etc..
that's not a bad idea at all.Quote:
Originally Posted by nextelbuddy
Or you can use Butt/Spade Connectors for a proper reliable connection and easy disconnect.