Very nice.
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Very nice.
So, it's been a few days, but last Wednesday night I installed the Powerflex control arm bushings and swapped back to the original Style 135 wheels. The new bushings did remove some slop in the front end, but not anywhere near enough. I've been thinking a lot about new shocks lately and now wondering if those are largely responsible for the vagueness and lack of control. It's not un-safe, just not BMW-esque. I'm going to try to put my GoPro in a few different strategic places to try to see what I'm feeling.
I was leaning toward buying a set of Koni Sports (~$500 from Import Replacement Parts) but then I found the entire ZHP suspension "kit" may still be available (p/n 33500429577; $475 shipped from Tischer). I'm confirming that, and if so I may pull the trigger. Other possible wear items that would make the front end feel sloppy include the ball joints and the strut mount. Since the ball joints will eventually wear out, anyway. The kit includes control arms, dampers, sway bar, plus some other bits for just a few dollars more than the control arms themselves.
There's also some clunking from the rear that I need to chase down; possibly rear strut mounts, but it could also be bushings back there. Fun, fun.
Today I brought home the majority of the interior from an '01 M3 that includes the piano black trim where mine has the silver cubes. The black looks dead sexy. Can't wait to get that in. I've also got the A, B and C pillar trim to replace mine that's sagging. These barely registered on the list of things to fix or change, but I couldn't let them get away! I also have a pair of non-sport E36 seats that are going to get turned into office chairs. Because racedesk.
Sweet list! Those office chairs will be awesome! I probably need to do suspension here soon.Quote:
Originally Posted by blalor
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Yeah, I've just gotta find some old chair swivel bases. Shouldn't be too hard to do…
Ah, I forgot: I also played with some IKE and LCM coding. My copy of BMW Scanner arrived. I turned on daytime running lights; have the clown nose flashing when the car's locked; have the marker lights flash when locking and unlocking via the remote; turned off the 37°F temperature warning; and have all doors unlock with the remote, instead of just the driver's door on first press. There's a bunch more stuff in there that I don't understand. :-)
awesome - i need to get on this stuff. the light flash and temp warning, and i'd like to code the parking lights to be on for DRLs - is this possible?Quote:
Originally Posted by blalor
peter
Yep! I tried that out, but decided I preferred the more traditional high beams at low intensity.Quote:
Originally Posted by slater
Haven't posted in a while, but I haven't been entirely idle. I now have all the major interior pieces installed (door and side panels, rear seats, 5 of 6 pillar trim pieces).
This past weekend I removed the 15% window tint from all but the back window. That was a total pain in the ass; I work slow (I wish I could say deliberately, but honestly, I'm just slow) and it took me probably 8 hours all together. I also swapped the front door panels, but still. I guess that's the penalty for doing things the first time… I did a little research on tint removal and it looked pretty frightening: razor blades and black plastic bags and ammonia and sunlight? Sounds like the recipe for disposing of a body. I found an Instructable that said using steam would release the glue and make the cleanup easier, so I bought a McCullough 1275 steam cleaner from Amazon for $113. The side windows were pretty easy, but the windshield (which had an "eyebrow" of tint across it) was a total pain. For the sides, I was able to get most of the glue to come off with the tint, but there were a few spots I had to go back and clean up. The windshield, maybe because it was angled more toward the sun, just refused to cooperate, leaving *all* the glue behind. I thought about tailgating a gravel truck, but in the end I got it cleaned up. Goo Gone didn't really work well on the glue, but a towel wrapped around one of the scrubbing brushes on the steamer (wear gloves!) worked very well. The difference is literally night and day. I'll be able to see other cars when changing lanes at night!
I picked up a metric boat-ton of parts from Turner yesterday afternoon (they're close; TOO close!) and installed the rear KONI shocks last night. Again, took me far too long. And this morning I found @smolk's howto video on adjusting them and now I realize I'll have to remove them to set them. Hopefully I can get the fronts and the idler and tensioner pullies installed on Sunday.
My biggest heartbreak so far has to be that the right rear jack point is bent. The pads were missing on the right side so I bought a new pair, but the rear frame point is tweaked enough (with a spot that's cracked!) that I ended up using a jack to get it to pop in place. The skirt is somewhat mangled, too. I must have been responsible for that, which makes me so damn mad.
Next week I'll be replacing the diff output shaft seals. The previous owner did the right one and completely screwed it up. The output shaft isn't staying seated and it leaked so much oil that the back of the car was wet when I got it home. Of course, doing that requires dropping the diff, which requires dropping the exhaust…
:respect
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Aaammn... so much work! Good job!
It feels so good when something actually goes right. I get so frustrated with most of these projects because they take longer than they should, or I get stuck on something stupid. The right output shaft has been leaking (lots) and the shaft kept pulling out of the diff housing. The previous owner had replaced the seal but didn't seat the new one in far enough, so the snap ring couldn't engage. A couple of guys who saw it thought it was pretty sketchy (I agreed) and I thought I was going to be in for a huge project, dropping the diff, etc. Turns out that (a) for the right side, at least, you can easily replace the seal without any major disassembly; and (b) I didn't even need to do that. Once I stopped to look at how the shaft fit into the seal (using another I had intended to install) I realized that it was possible the seal was preventing the snap ring from snapping. I used the extra seal to seat the existing one further into the housing and *presto*! The shaft no longer pulls out with just my hands! Unfortunately, just before it was properly engaged, I fumbled it and dropped it on my face. I expect I'll have a nice bruise there tomorrow…
Last night I replaced the tensioner and idler pulley for the main drive belt, vanquishing the squeal from the front of the engine. Pretty easy to do (but my E30 was still easier to work on under the hood). The Bentley manual for that wasn't terribly clear, tho. YouTube has been a fantastic reference for this car.
Sunday I got the front struts installed. The ride is *so* much better. It's quieter, less crashy, more controlled, and generally much more enjoyable. The KONI struts are about 2.5" longer than the stock ones, so getting them in was kind of tough, but everything compresses back to normal with the vehicle's weight on them. I replaced *everything*, which was probably overkill; I tend to get bad cases of while-I'm-in-there-itis. Bump stops, dust boots, top mounts, and I added reinforcement plates. I need an alignment pretty badly, but it's nice being able to feel the difference on something I just fixed. Unfortunately I'm still chasing the cause of the loose steering, and I think I've identified the actual rack as the cause. I used my GoPro with the iPhone app to watch (and record) various pieces while I wiggled the steering wheel. The steering coupler looks fine, the tie rods look fine, and it looks like most of the play is where the steering shaft goes into the rack. *sigh* I could probably live with that, for now, but when I *do* replace the rack, I'll have to have another alignment done. Thinking I might just do it all at once.
The new-to-me piano black trim is in and looks really nice. I actually haven't seen it in daylight, yet, but from what I can see, I'm psyched.
Next up will be changing the fluid in the transmission and diff, installing braided brake and clutch lines, removing the clutch delay valve, and flushing the entire braking system. Then maybe I can go out for a drive! :-D
Wow, good stuff. Pics of the new ride height please.
Good call. I'll get some pics this weekend.Quote:
Originally Posted by johnrando
Nice progress!
Gah, I wrote this once but my browser ate the reply.
Ok, so today I spent another few hours or so under the car. This time it was on a lift, thankfully.
I was so proud of myself after I got the output shaft seated the other night, but when I got the car in the air today there was oil all over the damn place. Somehow -- even though I never refilled the diff and lost a substantial amount with the shaft incorrectly seated -- more oil came out *after* it was clicked into place. Fortunately I had another seal and was able to change it at the shop. That was a 2 hour detour I hadn't expected (in part because of the cleanup). I haven't looked since I've been back home; hopefully that's solved it or I really *will* have a reason to buy that LSD!
The rest of the time I spent changing the fluid in the diff and transmission, installing braided brake and clutch lines, and bleeding the system. Pretty standard stuff and it went relatively quickly. The brake and clutch pedals feel a bit more firm, now, and it's always nice to have clean, fresh fluid.
There's really been a marked improvement in how the car drives, now. The shocks made a *huge* difference. I want to do a little more research before replacing the steering rack with a rebuilt unit from the Rack Doctor, but that's probably going to be the next item I attack. Then an alignment. Then rotors and track and street pad sets. Ka-ching.
Nice.
johnrando asked for a picture. :-)
http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/04/07/zuze7yqu.jpg
Looks about the same as stock, to me. The springs are the same, so it should be…
Thx for the pic.
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That's the first pic without tint. Gawd that stuff was dark, and a pain to remove to boot. It's nice being able to see out at night, tho!
New mats and pedals:
http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/05/05/unuqe8yq.jpg
Made OBD2 port accessible from the rear ash tray. My big-ass feet get caught on anything hanging out of the port in the stock location. :-)
http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/05/05/aqa9uqyr.jpg
http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/05/05/u6anugyb.jpg
http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/05/05/7yraqumu.jpg
Brilliant Idea with obdII port. I am actually in the prosses of doing something similar.Quote:
Originally Posted by blalor
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This is the part on Amazon: http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00GGPSK0U/ The full 3m is too long, but 2m might be too short. The extra can just be stuffed under the console. I had to cut a hole in the inner part of the ash tray (the one with the roll-up door attached) to get the cable through, but that's not visible (obviously!).Quote:
Originally Posted by 328ioc
Awesome. Thanks!Quote:
Originally Posted by blalor
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Nice pedals. Great job on the port. You should do a DIY on that.
Man I want a new set of mats. They look soo nice.
Hm, I can probably do that! Since I had that panel above the pedals down already, it was super easy.Quote:
Originally Posted by johnrando
Thanks! My old ones were trashed and the velcro backing had torn off. With the pedals, the interior looks almost new, now!Quote:
Originally Posted by Vas
Hm, been a while since I've updated this thread.
Last weekend I replaced the steering rack with a rebuilt unit from the Rack Doctor. I've been chasing an admittedly-small amount of play in the steering wheel. The rack itself did have some play (input shaft from the steering wheel would turn a little but the tie rods didn't move at all), but there was still some wiggle. The power steering fluid was *foul*; I don't think it's ever been changed in almost 116k miles. I found the high pressure hose from the pump to the rack was weeping and making a bit of a mess, so I replaced that, as well. I went middle-of-the-road on that part; Rein, I think. $99 vs $238 for the OEM part. I figure I can replace it twice and still come out ahead…
While doing some research on what sorts of components fail on BMWs that see lots of track time, I learned that control arms are considered a wear item, so I ordered a set of Lemforder ZHP control arms. Seems the ball joints will fail catastrophically, so smart racers replace the control arms every couple of years. I started installing them tonight and got the passenger side removed pretty quickly, but I can't get the nut that holds the control arm to the subframe tightened with just a socket. I'll have to buy a 21mm combination wrench tomorrow.
With the control arms replaced and the new steering rack, there shouldn't be anything left to wiggle up there, since I've already replaced pretty much everything else. Maybe the steering guibo, but that's easy to do.
I also replaced one of my year-old Koni shocks. The front passenger one was leaking oil pretty badly. Lifetime warranty on those, so I ordered an advance replacement.
It's so funny you say that, because I had a ball joint completely blow on me on the way to the track. I was pulling out of my favorite near-the-track gas station and the driveway is so steep that it hit just the right way and caused my ball joint to blow out. The steering wheel was almost 90 degrees off center at that point with a slurry of yellow warning lights on. The alignment was effed and so was my track day, before it even started. [sigh]Quote:
Originally Posted by blalor
I then replaced with Meyle HD and regretted that, because those failed like a week or two before my track event the next year in the same month. They only lasted about 35k/1 year... epic fail.
I settled with the OE Lemforder ones that you got. They have been a solid choice and have lasted me 3 years or so with still no issues.
They are catastrophically expensive though, so I wouldn't deem them as preventative replacement items just based on the amount of time you've had them. I'd go more based on mileage. They typically last 90-120k miles.
How did they fail for you? Did the ball come out of the joint, or did the shaft shear? And how did that cause warning lights to come on? Glad you got so lucky.
My reaction to the expense was the same as yours, and then I was reminded that a set of control arms cost less than a track day, and that they're really a drop in the bucket in the overall expense of driving a car on the track. Especially if you consider the damage that could be inflicted on yourself, your car, or someone else if you suddenly find yourself at speed with no way to steer.
After poking around at the sample SpecE46 build sheet, BMW CCA Club Racing tech bulletins, and (accidentally, via FB) talking to the BMWCCACR chief scrutineer, I've decided to follow their example and replace them fairly aggressively, probably around 50 days on track if they don't wear out first. That'll be about biennially if I can get on track as much as I'd like to. :-)
I don't know how it failed. I didn't bother checking. The warning lights came on because the steering angle sensor was getting messed with due to the blown suspension component. My steering wheel was almost 90 degrees off when pointed straight, so that sets a few systems crazy.Quote:
Originally Posted by blalor
I mentioned the expense because when I bought the arms, they were nearly $400 a piece! I don't know about pricing now though.Quote:
My reaction to the expense was the same as yours, and then I was reminded that a set of control arms cost less than a track day, and that they're really a drop in the bucket in the overall expense of driving a car on the track. Especially if you consider the damage that could be inflicted on yourself, your car, or someone else if you suddenly find yourself at speed with no way to failed
I don't really see it as being a dangerous no-steer situation... My ball joints faileded catastrophically yet I was able to steer just fine.
50 days on track is a LOT of track time so you should be good to go for a long time!Quote:
After poking around at the sample SpecE46 build sheet, BMW CCA Club Racing tech bulletins, and (accidentally, via FB) talking to the BMWCCACR chief scrutineer, I've decided to follow their example and replace them fairly aggressively, probably around 50 days on track if they don't wear out first. That'll be about biennially if I can get on track as much as I'd like to. :-)
The control arms were $372 total from RM European. Not too bad. They don't have the ///M sticker on them, but otherwise look like the stock items.