cool, thanks, i will PM him.Quote:
Originally Posted by ELCID86
peter
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cool, thanks, i will PM him.Quote:
Originally Posted by ELCID86
peter
bought a new battery, a new key and a new front plate bracket at the dealer today - $560CAD, ouch!!
peter
Wow. That's actually not even all that bad considering the prices of a battery and a key alone...Quote:
Originally Posted by slater
But still painful on the wallet. Sucks having to pay so much for simple things sometimes...
totally. $220 for the battery (not terrible, considering the quality), $227 for the key (ouch), $50 for the front plate mount (not bad).
13% tax on everything? OUCH.
peter
That's ridiculous for the key. Wow v
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well, they only make 10 keys for each car, or something like that. has to come from germany, apparently!Quote:
Originally Posted by ELCID86
it's good peace of mind for me - my imola sedan only came with 1 key, and i find that a bit unnerving - a spare would be nice, just in case.
peter
The key's price I believe includes programming, doesn't it?
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Yeah I replaced one for my coupe a few years back but don't remember it being anywhere near that expensive. Maybe $150 US
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to be honest, i didn't ask and they didn't specify - it should arrive tomorrow, and i will check. i should be able to program it with BMWScan, correct?Quote:
Originally Posted by az3579
yeah, besides the exchange rate, stuff is generally a lot more expensive in canada. less demand.Quote:
Originally Posted by ELCID86
peter
Wow, they should program it for that price if it isn't.
I had to buy a key for me car as it only came with one when I bought it. $200 is cheaper than a locksmith trying to get into a BMW should I somehow lock the keys in the car which I have with my ZHP prior. LOL.
The dealer programs the key so make sure you bring all working keys as you need all transmitters to program with the rolling code.
Doing it yourself is very easy and you don't need any special computer. I just did it to my dad's 540i as I was fiddling with the batteries and it forgot the programming from no battery power for too long.
Get into car with your keys, close doors, put first key into ignition and turn one click, take it out. Hold unlock on that key and press lock three times and let go of unlock key. Doors will lock and unlock to confirm. Hold unlock on the second key and click lock three times. The central lock will lock and unlock to confirm. Repeat for any other keys. That's it.
well, yesterday was my day to get the ZHP ready for our big trip coming up on thursday. i was planning on a cooling system overhaul and also OFHG, vanos seals and valve cover gasket.
i didn't get to the oil-related stuff - i got a late start, and a broken t-stat bolt (i was very surprised) hung me up for a while, but thanks to God (prayer works!), the bolt fragment eventually came out and i was able to find some nice hex-head replacement bolts (they all had to match, naturally :) ) from my giant German Car Fastener Vault.
i also installed some nifty Audi A6 spring-loaded grocery bag hangers for the trunk, and am almost done with the 3.5mm input for the factory stereo.
i love working on this car - it's so easy!! after many years of working on Audis, this thing is very freshing - simple and well-thought out. i'm a convert. :)
after we get back from our trip, the car goes back under the knife for all of the gaskets and o-rings, and a rear-end overhaul. :)
peter
thanks trevor - that sounds really easy!Quote:
Originally Posted by Rovert
peter
well, back from a 3400km trip to PEI and back. had a fantastic time. stopped in quebec city for a night on the way back - what a beautiful city. we are definitely going back for a long weekend. will post some pics from the trip when i get time.
i overhauled the cooling system before the trip, but did not get to the OFHG or VANOS rebuild - will do that soon. car behaved well, although i started developing a bit of a weird hesitation under load (always uphill... odd?), and the CEL came on on the way home, but then went out again. i am assuming it's a misfire code (haven't scanned yet), so it's either a plug (got a fresh set ready to go in), or a coil pack. i am hoping it is not the MAF.
peter
Love hearing about our cars going on long trips, just as I love hearing and seeing them in the snow too! Looking forward to pics!
Perhaps you might make a hot mess in your pants then when you hear about my upcoming long trips in the snow... :biggrinQuote:
Originally Posted by NoVAphotog
Peter,
That hesitation could be anything. Did you get the codes read? It will store a fault code even if the SES light goes off again.
Glad you had a safe fun adventure. Hope you get the hesitation figured out. I have a bit of one I'm investigating too. No lights though.
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Probably. But I hope to make my own as well...ordering the LM-32s for the winter wheels soon!Quote:
Originally Posted by az3579
i scanned the car last night and got these codes:Quote:
Originally Posted by az3579
2793/84 - O2-sensor before KAT Bank 1: lines
2794/84 - O2-sensor before KAT Bank 2: lines
28DD/84 - Air mass system
based on my research, what looks like a good place to start would be getting the 'SIB 12 08 05' DME flash done. my DME firmware appears to be 7.537.242, and that SIB version is 7.561.520, and lots of folks have commented that it makes a big difference.
that said, i am also going to replace the plugs, fuel filter, CCV and VANOS seals as i already have the parts here.
thanks, shawn. did you scan yours yet? with your high mileage it might be the same thing as my supposed DME issue (firmware can't deal with older O2 sensors as well as it should, from what i understand).Quote:
Originally Posted by ELCID86
i hope to post some this week - so much going on right now. i'm excited to see this thing in action in the snow too, with this polar vortex business we're dealing with again this winter i'm sure it won't be long. :)Quote:
Originally Posted by NoVAphotog
peter
I had MAF issues a few months back. Mine was showing lean banks 1+2 as well as Air Mass System.Quote:
Originally Posted by slater
One thing you could do to try to diagnose a bad MAF would be to unplug it. You'll get a SES light, but do some accelerations full throttle. You'll find that it runs like a bat out of hell. You'll get terrible gas mileage, but at least you'll be able to rule other things out. Do this if you experience the hesitation again.
If the hesitation is present, unplug the MAF. If the problem goes away, your MAF is bad. In my case, I didn't have severe performance issues, but a new MAF resolved my lean codes. A bad bad can cause a variety of other codes to come up as well, just like my lean codes.
thanks, i will try that out. i have to say that my 228K-mile ZHP coupe seems to feel stronger than my 115K-mile sedan does. the hesitation feels more like 'bucking' around 2500rpm in 4th, 5th, and 6th gears, which is why i was thinking about the DME flash. top end is good. i'll definitely unplug the MAF and see what happens, as i can easily reproduce the 'bucking'.Quote:
Originally Posted by az3579
peter
Based on this, I'd say a MAF is definitely worth looking at.Quote:
Originally Posted by slater
It's too bad the MAF is so friggin' expensive...
tell me about it! at least i have the one in the coupe to test with.Quote:
Originally Posted by az3579
i found a new VDO MAF for $322, or a remanufactured 'A1 Cardone' MAF for $179. hmmm.
peter
Complex sensors like this aren't something I'd go aftermarket on. I'd either of the following:Quote:
Originally Posted by slater
- New VDO is $249 at eeuroparts.
- Used ones seem to go for ~$75-100 on car-part.com (search for "Air Flow Meter")
hey alex!Quote:
Originally Posted by alexandre
it's $272 USD at eeuroparts... i checked there first - but they jacked up their duty-free delivery charges, they want $62 USD to ship it! i just ordered through them a few weeks ago and i got a big box of stuff for $40. weird.
peter
VDO part number is 5WK9642Z if it helps you look around - these manufacturer numbers are way more useful when shopping around.Quote:
Originally Posted by slater
Quote:
Originally Posted by slater
Quote:
Originally Posted by alexandre
Quote:
Originally Posted by alexandre
Sorry guys, those are all aftermarket. You'll be damned to find an OEM one for under $350, unless pricing has changed that much since July. If it's in the $200's, you can be sure it's aftermarket.
Prices seem to vary a lot depending on dealer and what kind of a discount you get. My local dealer quoted me $560!!! The place I ended up getting it from was my buddy's dealer, where it cost me $380.
Keep in mind; even though VDO/Siemens makes the Genuine BMW part, they are still aftermarket if labeled as VDO, and thus is still a risk. I've been told from numerous sources that just because the brand makes the Genuine BMW part, it doesn't mean it's exactly the same. For electrical stuff, I will always buy Genuine. For mechanical parts, it matters less, depending on the part.
I have a VDO in my car installed by PO in 2011... No issues. I went with the OE supplier for my O2 and camshaft sensors as well and no issues thus far. Genuine sensor is $650 at my rapist of a dealer :rofl
Glad you're not having issues. Considering how much money that is, I didn't want to take the chance at ordering an aftermarket and it not working out, since electrical components are defect-only returns. :(Quote:
Originally Posted by alexandre
hey botond,Quote:
Originally Posted by az3579
i swapped in the MAF from my coupe (which runs perfectly), and i have no change in behavior - it is still hesitating/bucking around 2500rpm under load in 4/5/6th gear. i guess now i need to start checking for vacuum leaks. also, i have an aFe intake on the sedan, OEM intake on the coupe. i wonder if it's not happy with that?
peter
It's doubtful that the intake is causing this issue, unless, of course, there's a vacuum leak somewhere in that area.Quote:
Originally Posted by slater
I also doubt it's a DME issue, but you can rule this out by unplugging the battery for a while. I think 15-30 minutes will do the trick. Need someone else to chime in and verify this, but because our cars are so electronically "involved", it's definitely a worthy troubleshooting step. The DME itself hasn't changed, so a DME won't just one day decide to make the car buck...
This sounds like a potential fuel pump issue as well, though there may be another issue due to the codes that were read. One thing that can affect both banks 1+2 is a vacuum leak; check the lower intake boot for cracks (might as well check the upper one as well). This is a very common issue.
thanks. i just replaced the upper and lower boots with new OE boots about 2 months ago. i am going to check all other vacuum connections, especially near the CCV (replacing it with a catch can shortly), and the fuel filter (replacing that shortly as well).Quote:
Originally Posted by az3579
hoping it's not a fuel pump.
peter
I would actually hope it's that simple, because if it isn't, then you're stuck with trying to find the source of the problem.Quote:
Originally Posted by slater
In my case, my fuel pump was making my car run like total crap, so I pulled over in a rest stop and swapped it with the new fuel pump I was carrying around for a few months (you know, just in case ;)).
agreed. f/p is an easy fix if it is in fact the root cause.
Ultimately, a proper diagnosis is key. If you're unsure, have a shop diagnose it.Quote:
Originally Posted by ELCID86
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new pads up front (did rotors 2 months ago), new rotors and pads out back. fixed a seized RR parking brake adjuster, it works as it should now.
next up: OFHG/VANOS/VCG/CCV fun, along with OEM M3 engine mounts and UUC trans mounts.
then: rear subframe bushings (poly), poly RTABs as well, plus new CSB and giubo. fun fun. and some paintwork.
peter
you go girl!Quote:
Originally Posted by slater
ha!Quote:
Originally Posted by ELCID86
if you could see my previous car history, this kind of list would be expected. :) i'm a "i like my car to be 100%" kinda guy. especially because my wife and kids spend more time in it than i do.
peter
Nice
I think you'll like the M3 mounts! I put them in mine. It took a little while to get used to the fact that my car didn't feel quite as refined anymore, but now that I'm used to it, I love the slight vibration you get. It's not obnoxious at all; it's just enough to make you feel like the car actually has a soul. lolQuote:
Originally Posted by slater
Also good call on the poly RTABs. I have them and zero complaints.