Good stuff. Good luck with it all.
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Good stuff. Good luck with it all.
Sent from my SM-G935V using Tapatalk
Spent some time yesterday cleaning the corrosion off of the rear calipers with some stainless wire brush drill attachments. The dust left me looking like a raccoon. A+ for having a particle mask handy.
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I was planning to paint them gloss black, but I'm digging the finish as-is. Anyone know if painting is required to protect the newly exposed surface?
I'd put a coat of clear on if nothing else they are plain old cast so they will rust again.
I used silver caliper paint on mine years ago. It's held up very well
Looks good. I keep meaning to paint mine.
G2 has a high temp caliper paint system.
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As these guys said, I would think a clear coat or a similar-colored paint would do the trick.
I've got a yellow paint kit from G2 that's unused, but I doubt you'd want it.
Quote:
Originally Posted by johnrando
Yep. I have a G2 kit in the garage. I was just looking at it and thinking that I didn't want to bother with it since I like the finish as is. Then you guys show up and start talking about doing things the right way I swear...Quote:
Originally Posted by BMWCurves
Lol. Even the clear coat wld hv to be high temp, right? Btw, those g2 kits 'expire' according to them, so you it b4 u lose it.
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I just used Duplicolor caliper paint in a rattle can. I didn't do nearly as good of a job as you did cleaning and it's still holding up great... that was like, 7 years ago
Finally got around to the actual painting part of the process last night and wanted to jot down my tips for anyone else wanting to do this:
- Prepping sucks. I spent far too much time and made a ridiculous mess grinding away 12 years of brake dust with wire brushes. I'm talking like 1-2 hours per caliper with power tools. If I had to do it again, I would embrace the airborne carcinogens and use a couple cans of brake cleaner while I scrubbed.
- I unmounted the calipers to clean them and put them back in place to paint. I tried a few different ways of suspending them, but this ended up being the easiest way to paint them without fully removing them from the car. Removing the rotors gives you some more room to work (duh).
- I bought a bag of little paint sponges to use instead of the included brush. Don't do this. It's all good and fine until you try to get some coverage in a seam and then your even, light coat gets flooded because you literally just squeezed a sponge full of paint. Dumbass. They also tend to become sloppy after about 60 seconds of use.
- I used about a dozen of the sponge brushes to get down one decent coat on all four calipers, then thought "maybe I should try the brush that was intended for use with this stuff." It was 10x better. It's much easier to do actual light coats and I found that if you slowly drag the bristles over the surface of the caliper, it does a great job of filling the little textured pockets in the casting, giving you a smooth finish after several coats.
- A lot of people complain about the durability of the little bristle brush that comes with the kit, but I think most of those reviewers are actually Neanderthals who's idea of using a paint brush is angrily smashing it into things. It's a tiny, cheap brush. Be gentle. I think I lost three bristles over 5 coats.
- Oh and there's even more complaints about needing multiple brushes because the one in the kit gets stiff when it dries between coats....maybe try KEEPING IT IN THE DAMN CAN BETWEEN COATS. Jesus, people.
Summary: Do multiple (4+), light coats. ~1 hour dry time between coats if you can swing it. Be slow and gentle with the brush. Store it in the can so that it doesn't dry out.
Oh and here is the kit that I used. It's great and I'd definitely pay the premium over a spray can again.
Some quick pictures:
Final coat on the FR caliper
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I cleaned up the rusted area on the front rotors and threw a coat on.
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And painted the clips. I should not have painted the clips. They look ridiculous.
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Thanks for the tips! I started doing the cleaning process but decided I'll probably save it for when I need to flush the brake fluid and I'll just take off all the calipers and do it while they're free. That way I can be more thorough.
Any pics of the finished product?
EDIT: god dammit, you beat me to it again with the pics :facepalm
Haha! Definitely do it with the calipers off if you can. I was able to get pretty good coverage on the fronts, but the rear brake line is shorter and didn't allow me to get the back of the caliper prepped. I wasn't too worried, though, since it was the front side of the calipers that were corroded all to hell.Quote:
Originally Posted by BMWCurves
I'm giving it some time to cure and will be putting everything back together this weekend. I'll do my usual photogrid with before/after and maybe a BAM thrown in.
I'd be interested in that (i think it'd tie in nicely with the yellow fogs and high beams reflector bowls once I paint them).Quote:
Originally Posted by BMWCurves
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Okay. I'll talk to my folks and see if they can find it and package it up. I'm trying to remember if I used any of the materials from when I was prepping my brake calipers but I can't remember. I'll find out soon.Quote:
Originally Posted by 704sw
Pretty decent before/after with the G2 paint
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Nice and subtle. Exactly what I was looking for.
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Looks good :thumbsup
great job!
For sure
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Whats up with the Pilot Super Sport on the front and All Season Tires on the back?
Hah! I was waiting on someone to notice that. Those were on the car when I bought it. The PSS's in front are old and worn, while the all seasons on the rear are fairly new. Have to assume that the rears got torched and the previous owner got sticker shock at the cost of putting another pair of PSS's on.Quote:
Originally Posted by Vas
Gotcha. Going to match them up eventually ?
Looks great. Can you describe the prep process for this application?
Thank you in advance.
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Why haven't I done this!? Nice job.
This is awesome! I am planning to do this on my brakes in the near future. Torn between gloss black and silver...
Yep! Working on getting a square set to go on the 18x9's that are sitting in the garage.Quote:
Originally Posted by Vas
Yeah it freaking sucks. The brake cleaner that came with the kit evaporates away in about 10 seconds, so it's kind of useless except for a final wipedown. I ended up hammering the calipers from every angle with my army of stainless wire brushes:Quote:
Originally Posted by danewilson77
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I figured out a trick way too late in the process that made things a lot easier:
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This allows you to control the speed with one hand while you use your strong hand to hold the angle adapter right at the wire wheel. It's 10x easier to control a spinny brush this way.
If I had to do it again, I would totally half ass the prep work. The epoxy adheres enough to just paint over caked on brake dust.
Definitely want to leave yourself about a 5-6 hour window for painting, though. Spend 15 minutes brushing on a light coat, go do something else for 45 minutes, repeat.
I couldn't decide between those two either. Went with the black thinking that it would match the trim and be different, but not boy-racer-ey. I wasn't about to paint stock 330 calipers some crazy color like they're anything special.Quote:
Originally Posted by anandoc
Just over here playing with some custom plate ideas for the red car...
Attachment 28985Attachment 28986Attachment 28987Attachment 28988
You can have exclamation points? What is this madness?
! and =Quote:
Originally Posted by BMWCurves
Don't think I've ever seen a plate with those 2...
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BMWCurves
Yeah we get pretty wild over here in NCQuote:
Originally Posted by san
Special Character Rules
The below list indicates which special characters are allowed. The amount of space a character occupies is subtracted from the number of characters allowed on the plate. Personalized Plates require at least one letter or one number. There are no ½ space characters allowed for motorcycle license plates.
Ampersand & 1.0
Number Sign # 1.0
Question Mark ? 1.0
Dollar Sign $ 1.0
Forward Slant / 1.0
Equal Sign = 1.0
Asterisk * 1.0
Plus Sign + 1.0
At Sign @ 1.0
Empty Space 1.0
Exclamation Point ! 0.5
Colon : 0.5
Period . 0.5
Dash - 0.5
Comma , 0.5
Apostrophe ' 0.5
Double Quotes " 1.0
So I should be able to go with:Quote:
Originally Posted by ZHPizza
-ESTORIL-
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This is absolutely crazy! I wish we were allowed special characters in Ontario...
You wish, nerd.Quote:
Originally Posted by 704sw
Attachment 28993
I'm guessing that they allow the special characters, but don't count them towards being a different combination.
But this is available for when you and your dog are trying to solve puzzles:
Attachment 28994
:roflQuote:
Originally Posted by ZHPizza
What about bestblau?
Who recognizes this little turd burglar?
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CDV?
Yup CDV
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CDV... the gateway to balky shifts. good riddance!
Obligatory post by wsmeyer: http://www.zhpmafia.com/forums/showt...lics-ExplainedQuote:
Originally Posted by slater
I still believe the CDV removal (and in my case not a removal but use of UUC's "unlock valve") made a noticeable difference in the clutch engagement and feel.
I read through that thread about the low viscosity spec and saw my car had the brakes flushed at the dealer regularly, so I accepted that it probably had the proper DOT4 LV and wouldn't notice much of a difference.Quote:
Originally Posted by BMWCurves
Bull. Honkey.
The difference is significant for me. Starting in first, the 1-2 shift, even downshifting is finally...right. It's hard to describe because it's not like the clutch works "better" per se. It just does what you expect it to do.