And the feds are watching :shiftyQuote:
Originally Posted by Hornung418
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And the feds are watching :shiftyQuote:
Originally Posted by Hornung418
Pulled the alignment pins and maxed out the stock camber.
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In the rear ? Front? Both? How much did u gain?Quote:
Originally Posted by Hornung418
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The fronts. No idea how much I gained. I still need a fender roll.
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Dude I just heard the Bimmerworld spec exhaust. IIRC, you mentioned about getting it. Sounds so good, thought I'd share.
https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?v...type=2&theater
Damn...Can't wait to get the M52 SS shorty headers.
I have opted against the M50 ones as they are cast iron and heavy and lack Oxygen Sensor bungs.
Bumper will be getting a full respray after bad prep work has caused peeling paint.
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If they were not going to cover it, I would have suggested my painter that I use. He did the front clip of my car and the results are amazing.
That's some crappy prep.
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Good that they are covering it.
Changed out my rear grid for a new one.
http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/07/14/u6umymyb.jpg
Anti-rattle solution. Felt tape cut into appropriate shapes.
http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/07/14/u4amepyn.jpg
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Rear grid?
Rear parcel shelf. Right at the base of the window.Quote:
Originally Posted by johnrando
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Car has headers and recently its been stalling at redline and giving me the EML, DSC and Brake lights. Scanning tonight, but any ideas?
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Battery?Quote:
Originally Posted by Hornung418
Ah, I don't have one of those. Suspected it was something like that.Quote:
Originally Posted by Hornung418
Car has been stalling at highway speeds and redline shifts. Read and cleared the codes, reset adaptations and now it runs like shit. Put it through some warm up cycles and restarted the car several times and the code still remains. It runs fine with the MAF unplugged, however you cannot use the Brake and Accelerator pedals at the same time...so rev matching is impossible. I have cleaned the MAF with the appropriate spray. Next step is to examine the intake boots. The codes didn't say lean or rich, just "Luftpfad" in the error read out, which means airflow auf Englisch. Included with that one were multiple cylinder misfires.
Any thoughts on this one?? I will try to get the actual code numbers when this storm passes.
I finally picked up the fender roller after I figured out how to get it running. So I will be doing that tomorrow after I replace the spark plugs and get the intake track cleaned and repaired. I have spare intake boots from the failed MS43 conversion on the 328i.
Just wanted to give you a heads up about the MAF. The MAF on our cars cannot be cleaned. It's a "hot film" type sensor, and must be replaced when it gives issues.
I also unplugged my MAF to try to troubleshoot and found that my car ran like a bat out of hell with it unplugged. Ultimately I ended up replacing it yesterday and cleared the adaptations. Runs buttery smooth now.
When the MAF was bad, I had jerky acceleration below 2k and had one hell if a nasty vibration around 3-4k under hard acceleration in first gear. The new MAF fixed all of that, despite not always having a MAF code. (Had it at one point, cleared the codes, and the MAF code didn't come back but the lean codes did).
The MAF could still very well be an issue even if you don't have codes for it.
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Why can a hot film type sensor NOT be cleaned?
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Great insight, BP. I have been experiencing a nasty power dip at 2000 rpm. I will be doing all the regular maintenance tomorrow.
Plugs, replacing the boots and intake cleaning. I will attempt to clean the MAF again despite your warnings in hopes of not having to buy a new one...cash is tight for stupid failures.
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How much is a new MAF.... and does it need to be OEM?
My BMW tech friend as well as various posts online seem to agree that attempting to clean this kind of MAF actually destroys the film. My friend explained in greater detail at one point but digging through my texts to find the info will be like trying to find a needle in a haystack...Quote:
Originally Posted by danewilson77
I thought I could get around it as well but I was very wrong. I tried everything under the sun except for replacing the MAF and failed miserably.Quote:
Originally Posted by Hornung418
Make sure your MAF is to blame, of course, before ordering one. It is indeed a very expensive purchase and technically I couldn't afford to buy one either, but I bit the bullet and seriously cut into the Calabogie trip budget for this weekend to ensure I'm not running my car lean at full tilt (I had lean codes for both banks before the MAF change and everything else that causes lean was already addressed except for manifold gaskets).
Good luck with the cleaning... most people say it improves temporarily and the issue comes right back, sometimes comes back worse.
Between $350 and $550, depending on where you buy. Buy online for the best price, and buy Genuine BMW.Quote:
Originally Posted by johnrando
Didn't work. Ordered a new MAF. Should be at the dealer in an hour.
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I hope the new MAF fixes the issue. How much did you end up paying, if you don't mind my asking?Quote:
Originally Posted by Hornung418
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Not sure yet. They are cuting me a deal though. It's less than $350 I think.
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So with all of this in mind. Today I replaced all six spark plugs, the throttle body, the ICV and the intake boots to no avail. As a last resort I am replacing the MAF sensor.
And the code I'm getting is P16A7.
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Ok. I've cleaned mine at least a dozen times over the last 100k miles. Hopefully mine isn't on the brink of failure.
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Guys, Hyundai maf, look at that before dropping the big bucks
Yeah...about that. The techs confirmed it for me. The hot plate has a film on it so any kind of silicon or spray that isn't air can deteriorate the coating. And the PO had a K&N pile filter in the stock housing be for I swapped it for paper. I have a feeling that its not an immediate failure but its definitely not good.Quote:
Originally Posted by danewilson77
So my bill today was $397.74 after taxes and a heavy discount. The new MAF element looked totally different than the old one. The coating was different and had a brownish hue to it. The issue is fixed and the car runs great. Guess the new plugs and boots added to that :-) all free of course.
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Only works for the 3 pin MS42/43 MAF not the MS45.1 MAF.Quote:
Originally Posted by E_Rak
Beleive BP and myself when we say we exhausted every other option before deciding that this was the correct solution.
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Oh okay, I stand corrected
Its all good. Thanks for lookin out! :thumbs up:Quote:
Originally Posted by E_Rak
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Ok. Maybe when i have money to burn I'll pick up a new one. At 200K miles, it can't hurt.
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Someone should try this maf, website appears legit. http://treperformance.com/i-5856984-...ow-sensor.html
Quote:
Originally Posted by danewilson77
Remember, it's gotta be the right part number. John, that MAF will only work for the 3 pin cars. The ZHP and other cars running MS45.1 need the six pin MAF.Quote:
Originally Posted by Johnmadd
OEMBimmerparts.com is the best place to look for parts, if I could have waited for shipping I could have bought from them.
ZHP MAF
Need to add that to a sticky or something.
Good info man. Glad you got it running good now.Quote:
Originally Posted by Hornung418
Good to hear it solved your issues Justin.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Johnmadd
Thanks guys!Quote:
Originally Posted by johnrando
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Damn that's really good to know.
amazing at your MPG too!