This is a 100% California car. No excuses.
Sigh. I'm so annoyed. Shouldn't cost me too much money, but it'll be a huge waste of time. Ugh.
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This is a 100% California car. No excuses.
Sigh. I'm so annoyed. Shouldn't cost me too much money, but it'll be a huge waste of time. Ugh.
That one's already stolen from somebody else.Quote:
Originally Posted by 704sw
that wasn't caused by rust, it was caused by incompetence.Quote:
Originally Posted by stephenkirsh
What a bummer. It will be all that much better when done.
Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk
I know, I just like to make it the butt end of my jokes [emoji4]Quote:
Originally Posted by slater
Gotta’ love when people use air tools for a screw only requiring 20lbs of oomph.
well... rust is brownish in color...Quote:
Originally Posted by 704sw
or use bits that are one size too small for the fastener, which looks like what happened with the caliper slides...Quote:
Originally Posted by 704sw
Looks more like the ol' "is it a Torx or a hex?"
"Fuck it, I'll use a flathead screwdriver"Quote:
Originally Posted by Sockethead
“Oh god it’s just spinning!”Quote:
Originally Posted by BMWCurves
“Just mash it in there, and turn faster!”
“Wow, that looks bad. We’ll just get it back in there good enough by hand, and put some red loctite on there so it doesn’t back out.”
What I think happens, is foreign debris gets a bit packed in the torx hole (as well as some rusting), then full tool engagement is not achievable.Quote:
Originally Posted by slater
The way I've found to prevent strippage is:
1. Make sure the hole is free of debris.
2. Using the appropriately sized torx, tap it into place slightly with a small ball peen hammer.
3. Attach ratchet to torx and while applying inward force attempt to loosen, all the while using proper counter torque.
***NOTE: If torx is welded to caliper/hub, heat and Aerokroil may be utilized to help break the torx free.
Sent from my S8+