Anybody have info on or know somebody that has retrofitted s54 throttle bodies to an M54 and then ran the S54 BMWP (or after market equal) intake? Is this even possible?
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Anybody have info on or know somebody that has retrofitted s54 throttle bodies to an M54 and then ran the S54 BMWP (or after market equal) intake? Is this even possible?
This is of interest to me, it's be a year? since I looked into this so some of this info may be old but still could be noteworthy. I bought a RRD M54 adapter kit:Quote:
Originally Posted by BADCLOWN
1. It does not clear the M54 oil filter housing/power steering mounts, likely will have to use an S54 OFH or remote mount the p/s reservoir.
2. It does not clear the heater pipes
3. It is VERY tight to the vanos solenoid.
4. Temp sensor on OFH does not clear plenum
5. AFAIK no one has made S54 ITB/throttle actuator work with MS45.1, I'm on MS43 and I still haven't found conclusive info that it will work.
Idk if the clearance would be any different but have you heard of rabid racing development? They make ITBs for m54
RRD = Rabid Racing Development. :)
I missed that part, my bad
All good, I really want to make this kit work.Quote:
Originally Posted by BADCLOWN
I'm going to revisit it this year and see what I can make happen.
I’m at a point with ownership of my car that it’s either do what has been mentioned above (if it was able to work) or supercharge the thing OR sell it and find a new car to mod/spend time with
If you are looking for power you might want to consider a high compression build and the N54 manifold.
Dbilas also makes an ITB kit but it will probably have similar issues to all the other kits.
I don’t really want to crack the motor open at all honestly
TS2 or 3... Or Syncro Design Works turbo kit.Quote:
Originally Posted by BADCLOWN
The ITB setup I don't think is going to yield much for hp gains on a stock long block.
The ITB setup wouldn’t be for horsepower gains so much as “cool factor” and the added noise, assumed increase in throttle response
How about a s54 swap? Comes with ITBs, members like George H has lots of experience with the conversion, too. s54 sedan is pretty sweet.Quote:
Originally Posted by BADCLOWN
Quote:
Originally Posted by Will
I’d love to do that but from my general understanding it costs anywhere from 8-10k parts and labor, I don’t have that kinda cash sitting around plus I’ve got my first kid on the way
Congrats !Quote:
Originally Posted by BADCLOWN
Much appreciated, going to be a life changer for sureQuote:
Originally Posted by fredo
[emoji991] Look at this post on Facebook https://www.facebook.com/share/p/Qvk...ibextid=79PoIi
Funny enough came across this today.
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https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...4ed571d0a1.jpg
Doing it DIY and nicely that number is probably still low.Quote:
Originally Posted by BADCLOWN
I also don’t have the knowledge, time, etc. to do it myself. 90% of the work on my ZHP is done by my independent mechanic
Quote:
Originally Posted by BADCLOWN
Ouch, I didn't realize it was that much. Congrats on the first kid!Quote:
Originally Posted by GeorgeH
Its hard to find a good donor for that price, let alone any PM, labor, mods, etc.Quote:
Originally Posted by Will
My problem is this: regarding the motor I would want most of it gone through and refreshed, updated with various pieces, I’d want a BMWP (or the liking aftermarket) intake, and just make sure everything was done right so that the motor and setup is 100% good to go for a long while vs. having to address stuff down the road. Versus just buying a known good/lower mileage/compression tested car and just slapping it in there.
$40k minimum for how I you would imagine you'd want it done.
I wasn’t thinking that much haha. Simple refresh of the motor, make sure everything is as OEM as possible, and throw that intake on. I know my Indy can do all of that, it’s just a matter of finding the parts. I also don’t know what all is needed outside of the motor bits.Quote:
Originally Posted by GeorgeH
Quote:
Originally Posted by BADCLOWN
I guess I don't know what a simple refresh is in your mind, lol. Figure a long block from BMW is $16k, Carbon plenum and its trimmings are $3k minimum, Headers/Exhaust to pair with the intake figured $3-4k minimum, cooling system, fuel system, wiring, and misc odds and ends plus labor. Then you have all the suspension, diff, brakes, etc to complete it.Quote:
Originally Posted by BADCLOWN
I guess you could do the swap without the rest of the driveline, brakes and suspension but at that point seems a bit silly, but IDK.
Complete compression tested motors on eBay range from 4k-8k or so depending on mileage. Add in a trans and they range from 7-10k. I have no idea if you can use the 6spd from the ZHP or not and what the advantages/disadvantages are of using the ZHP rear end (if possible, or if you need the M3 rear end). I wouldn’t need brakes as my brake setup is all M3/M3 CSL. Just do rod bearings, vanos stuff, etc.
How can I get the complete VIN out of a partial VIN? For example, let’s say all I have is this:
KM08804
Mdecoder.com requires the full VIN.
If you've got a similar full VIN from a car from the same series of production (2005 330i), you can change the last 7 and Bimmer.work will automatically correct the check digit for you. Otherwise you should be able to figure it out.
The first three digits for any E46 should be WBA (Country of origin W=Germany, Manufacturer code B =BMW, Vehicle type passenger car = A)
Digits 4-7 are the production series type code. In your case it's EV53. You can find that on realoem.com by entering the last 7 of your VIN:
https://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/select?vin=KM08804
Digit 8 is also manufacturer specified. For E46 sedans/wagons I believe this number is always 4, for 4 doors.
9th digit is the check digit that can be calculated once you know all the other remaining digits.
10th digit is the model year, for 2005 this number is 5.
11-17 you know, KM08804.
So at this point you've got
WBAEV534x5KM08804
To calculate the check digit (x) plug it into the check digit calculator:
https://vpic.nhtsa.dot.gov/decoder/CheckDigit/Index/
So the full VIN should be WBAEV53425KM08804
https://mdecoder.com/decode/wbaev53425km08804
EDIT:
This chart should also be helpful. Looks like the 8th digit is related to the airbag system
http://www.zhpmafia.com/forums/attac...1&d=1706027968
Except those that begin with WBS.Quote:
Originally Posted by ///Mark_D
All E46 M3's would start with WBS then, right?Quote:
Originally Posted by John in VA
This helps, thanks. I appreciate the detailed info.Quote:
Originally Posted by ///Mark_D
Any while you?re in there parts that I could replace when I?m replacing the Guido and CSB?
Also, would I need to buy anything other than the parts themselves or are there any clips or fasteners that need replacing?
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- Refresh the shifter?
- Exhaust manifold to pipes gaskets and studs
- Differential bushings?
- Shift Shaft seal?
- Trans mounts?
That?s a good list. Didn?t think of the shifter bits at all.Quote:
Originally Posted by GeorgeH
I?ve replaced the diff bushings, trans mounts and the exhaust manifold gaskets already but doesn?t hurt to check again and replace if needed, I guess.
Thanks George!
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What are folks with oval 2 pin connector alternators using for replacements?
The reman Bosch unit lasted me a year, so I?m considering just getting an OEM replacement.
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Valeo or BMW, the Bosch reman starters and alternators have been hugely unreliable IMO, I won't install them unless there is absolutely no other option.
Does valeo have the 2pin oval connector design? I was able to only find the rectangular 2 pin.Quote:
Originally Posted by GeorgeH
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Doesn't Bosch still sell a brand new unit ? I would avoid anything remanufactured
What pn# do you have thats showing the wrong connector and what is the last 7 of your vin?
Valeo PN 12317501599Quote:
Originally Posted by GeorgeH
VIN: PD99986
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Are you looking at the stock photos or did you order one and it had the wrong connector?
I would wager the photos are incorrect, I agree that 599 is correct for your VIN too.
With that said I'm seeing new from BMW online in the $400. The Valeo at FCP looks like it is $271 retail. Personally for the difference I would like buy the BMW. And if you do that supply them your VIN and then you have recourse if you get the wrong one.
BMW parts when bought from a BMW franchise incl a 2yr parts and labor warranty. AND I think alternators might have a lifetime warranty. For those reasons and the price delta I would consider a genuine.