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Yeah...Here's the pic I took when I pulled into work. I will will a truer MPG after a full tank, but I drove in normal traffic conditions and achieved 18.1 as an average after I installed the headers. After changing the MAF, I got 24.4!!Quote:
Originally Posted by derbo
http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/07/18/evedy7u8.jpg
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What are you doing for CEL fix for headers?
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Probably gonna have them coded out. Dont have to worry about that for a year though. Next inspection is Aug 2015.
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I'm gonna black tape the inside of the cluster :biggrinQuote:
Originally Posted by Hornung418
In MD, the CEL has to show ready with key on, engine off. So blacking it out is an instant fail, and the codes will still show when they scan it if your light is on under the tape.Quote:
Originally Posted by Johnmadd
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That doesn't work here. :( We need to plug in our cars..Quote:
Originally Posted by Johnmadd
Works in the VA for sure.
Yea we just started obd2 plug in for readiness here in Louisiana...sucks. Gotta have all monitors showing ready which you can't do with them coded out
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They don't give you a break on one monitor? If it shows N/A then what are they gonna do?Quote:
Originally Posted by TigerTater
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"It works in VA for sure" - Danewilson77
Werd-johnmadd
Nope they don't. It's that the heater sensor readiness won't go green with rear sensors offQuote:
Originally Posted by Hornung418
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So to update: before the MAF failed, it was showing soft fail signs and tended to lag when I would romp on the throttle. I almost felt sick thinking about what the issue was. Mostly felt like the clutch was slipping, as if there was a delay when the throttle was mashed and when the car accelerated. It lagged excessively under 4100 rpm when the DISA opens then everything was cool. It was bucking and dipped at 2000 rpm when it was a cold engine start.
As of the day I've driven it, the stumbles are from and the DISA dip and 2000 rpm dip are gone. The car runs like a stuck pig.
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Your old MAF in a nutshellQuote:
Originally Posted by Hornung418
http://stream1.gifsoup.com/view4/1477005/qwop-o.gif
I know I need a maf for sure now.Quote:
Originally Posted by Hornung418
Damn, how many miles? I struggle to get 19mpg and I'm all stock.
Nearing 154k.
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I'm nearing 126k, I'm going to put this on my radar.
Honestly you shouldn't have an issue unless you used an oiled filter or have cleaned your MAF with a cleaning product. I would avoid those products if you havent used them before.
I drove home with an oiled filter when I bought the car. I swapped that out immediately when I got home. I had to deal with some codes for the MAF on the journey back.
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Rolled fenders and shaved those bumper clip bolts in the rear. No more rubbing over bumps. Will probably rub a little bit in hard cornering, but not cutting like before.
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No pics?
Haha I figured it was basic knowledge, boy racer!
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LOL it is, but everyone loves pictures when you read threads! :)Quote:
Originally Posted by Hornung418
I will snap some pics of my new stance next wash day. Probably Wednesday. Gonna break out the DSLR.
In other news, I smacked the shit out of a Mazdaspeed3 from 50-100. Beat him by three lengths.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hornung418
I hate the local Mazdaspeeds on the racetrack. Every one of them I've encountered won't let me pass but I was faster than them :(
That's pretty good. I really don't try to race anyone...IDK, my car feels slow as piss even with all the mods I have. Maybe it's because our other three cars have anywhere from 75-200 more HP than my carQuote:
Originally Posted by Hornung418
He wanted to play, so I obliged him. His car makes 260 hp from the factory but it's turbo'd and has a flatter tq curve. Felt good with all my mods and such to beat a turbo'd car.
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Nope, been the owner of my car for over 8 years now, an oiled filter has never gone in the car. I guess I'll switch back to looking at other things that could be causing the poor fuel economy, I'm pretty sure its a combo of a heavy right foot combined with all in-town miles. Thanks.Quote:
Originally Posted by Hornung418
Yep. :(Quote:
Originally Posted by Hornung418
There is no way in hell I'd put that in my car. When it comes to important ignition equipment, I trust nothing but BMW parts.Quote:
Originally Posted by Johnmadd
I even thought about putting the VDO MAF in knowing that VDO is a good brand but still decided against it. Don't want to risk it at that point.
Oddly enough, Justin... my car still runs like shit below 2k rpm. It's jerky as fawk; it's impossible to drive smoothly and has become impossible to rev match on the upshift as well. I don't understand what the hell is going on... the codes have not returned in a week yet, so I know the MAF resolved that issue.
My car is running great. What's your engine maintenance condition? Anything nearing or needing replacement? What have you done recently before the MAF replacement?Quote:
Originally Posted by az3579
I'm doing my CCV next pay period. I have a feeling it's OE and in need of the Cold Weather kit. I though about the catch can but there's no reason to redesign the system. I also need to do belts and pulleys I have a nice belt squeak when I shift at WOT. Looking at gatorback or Dayco W belts.
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Everything is up to date except for cooling system. I can't believe I already put almost 120k on it since December 2010...Quote:
Originally Posted by Hornung418
Regardless, there isn't a thing I could think of that requires maintenance with regards to performance. The only thing I skipped was post cat O2 sensors since they don't really do anything related to how the car runs...
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Reset adaptions after MAF?
Cam position sensors?
Quote:
Originally Posted by az3579
Yeah have you reset the adaptations? How about the E-Pedal adaptations? How are your plugs and coils? If the coils are OE, I would replace at your mileage.Quote:
Originally Posted by Sockethead
$32.50 per coil at OEMBimmerparts.
What management software are you running?
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This is what I was thinking. Although I don't know the exact symptoms of a failing can position sensor.Quote:
Originally Posted by Sockethead
A soft fail with no codes will exhibit extreme power loss (Limp Mode engaged), lopey idle and hunting. If BP can drive his car normally his issue isn't with the cam sensors. Although if he has the cash, new OEM sensors would be ideal around 200k miles.Quote:
Originally Posted by Newjack
Changed out my belts for Dayco poly W ribs. Really quiet and finally the correct length for my underdrive pulleys.
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I reset the adaptations with the computer, but didn't seem to make a difference. Today I unplugged my battery to see if that would do anything and it seems to have helped a lot. I'm afraid of it coming back though... it's a nearly damaging experience to my sanity. lolQuote:
Originally Posted by Sockethead
Not sure how to reset the E-Pedal adaptations... would the battery dis/reconnect do that? If so, I did that today. Let's see what happens...Quote:
Originally Posted by Hornung418
4 of the coils are original, 2 were replaced recently with used ones. It was on the list to do all 4 but dayum,
http://media.tumblr.com/5ab692712301...uXw1qz4rgp.jpg
Down the road it'll be done. Cam position sensors should be fine; the car drives and idles fine, just jerky below 2k.
Still clear, Justin? No issues resurfaced?
Broke her loose on the way to work. Drives perfectly.
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Makes going to work that much more bearable.Quote:
Originally Posted by Hornung418
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Am I dapper now?
http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/08/05/geme4umy.jpg
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Haven't heard that term since I left Buffalo, NY decades ago. Yes, it may pass for Dapper.