Should be reasonable. He did the headliner in my Dads and I (father son project) Lincoln. Only charged $235 and did an amazing job.
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Let us know how the fix goes. Wonder if they'd have to do the whole seat?
I have to. :rofl. Why so little up front and so much out back? i would keep the front higher than the rear or equal for handling. Also set front toe to zero and maybe 3/16" toeIN in the rear.
Thats good to hear. I'm a little worried about the seat being costly though if he has to replace the whole seat cover.
I hope not, but I would like the holes to look like they were never there. The fabric I would like to look similar in age to the rest of it, if it is redone. It would look funny if the whole car alcantara is aged and then suddenly my driver seat is magically perfect and new.
How did the headliner turn out.
Derek, check the SF meet thread, please. :) I want to see that black beauty there if at all possible!
Those are just the numbers I've came up with in my 'research'. I'm all ears though if someone sees improvements. The car is primarily a DD, but lets just say I take the backroads home every day, so I'm looking for a good balance of performance and practicality. It should see some track time next season, as soon I stop spending all my disposable income on mods/maintenance!
-1.4 front and -2.1 rear seem like pretty close to stock sport settings and should give you good handling. I think stock is around -1.2 front -2.0 rear? But the E46 is designed to understeer at the limit with stock setup: staggered tires, less front camber, low front spring rates, etc. Derek is looking for balanced handling where all 4 wheels will start to slide at the same time when he's at the limit, so he can do an awesome 4-wheel drift around the corners and impress everyone! :-)
I'm fine with understeer on the street so if I screw up I have more chance to recover. But on the track and at AUtoX I also aim for balanced handling (or very slight understeer). In theory I try to run about -2.0/-1.9 camber for street (still understeers with staggered tires), -3.0/-2.1 camber for track. Also try to get front toe to slight toe-out for track, slight toe-in for street. I'm getting faster at adjusting rear camber!
You meant seat? I haven't gotten a response from the upholstery guy yet. I emailed him yesterday morning.
I'm not sure I will be able to. I am driving up to Willows, CA in the afternoon. There maybe a slight chance (33%) I can come by in the morning if my gf lets me. (whiplash noise)
LOL 4wheel drift? I like a more neutral feel the car and I think with your track setup, its a lovely setup. Its close to what I have. Do you have camber arms in the rear? Since Toe changes with the camber adjustments, I've been hesitate to try changing it on the fly during track days till I get some expert advice about it.
QC,
Toe is the main culprit for fast worn tires. If you do backroads alot, the camber will be beneficial and the tires could evenly wear. I say set the front toe to 0 cause its your daily driver and set the rear toe to 3/16th' toe IN for some better exit traction.
For camber -3 / -2.1 is a good setup for fun. if it is too aggressive, you can go with John's -2/1.9 setup.
Haha http://s1.e46fanatics.com/forum/imag...ies/zzwhip.gif
You should bring Chloe with you!
I just got back from Willows, which makes me beholden to my wife to possibly be at home all next weekend. (whiplash noise).
I don't have adjustable camber arms in the rear; use the stock eccentric bolt to adjust camber. It does change toe but I heard the rear toe changes only slightly with camber changes so I don't worry about it. I'm only changing rear camber 0.2 or 0.3 degrees.
Do you know which way rear toe changes with camber change?
For track days I always adjust front camber and sometimes adjust rear camber. For front, I used to just jack up each corner and change camber while swapping the wheel. Since installing Hotchkis bar, this is very hard, presumably because bar is applying upward pressure from other side. Often have to jack up whole front from center jack point to adjust front camber. Rear camber can still be adjusted one wheel at a time just need 18mm wrench + 18mm socket.
Last weekend I made rear camber more negative during lunch on Saturday, but forgot to change it back Sunday evening because I was stressed about my brake pads. Maybe tomorrow will return rear camber to where I marked it after last alignment, which should be about -1.9°.
Adding negative camber also adds toe out. I used to run 1.5 degrees up front with some toe in and when I went to track 3 it would have some toe out
The rear isn't as much.
sent from a Moto X
Wish I took more pics!
sent from a Moto X
Looks great.
sexy! :thumbsup
Thanks guys! I'll see if I have time to go through more video footage. Most of it is boring hahaha
sent from a Moto X
:drool
Track mode FTW!
Love it. Do you use the 135's on the street?
Thanks guys!
My 135s have not been on the car for at least 5 months. I don't daily drive the BMW anymore, and when I do, I feel like I should always drive it in "track mode" minus the Recaro bucket seat and track pads.
edit:
I have thought about keeping it in track mode at all times since I barely drive it anyways.. It would save me alot more time to not change it back to stock again. I've been looking into getting 18" rims again and getting Stoptech all around.. :X Gotta look into the front M3 Spindles so I can rock 355mm Stoptech all around O_O or even better, stock ZCP brakes :D
I like your style. Might as well go 18 if its not being driven much. You thinking arc-8's again?
Wouldn't 18's slow you down on the track vs 17s? I always thought that 17's were optimal for track. But I guess it all depends on weight.
Its a moot point. 18s will allow a larger brake setup and if I choose the lighter rims, it can be equal to the weight of the 17s. There is also less rubber on the sidewall which can reduce some roll.
The real reason to go to 18s again is for brake clearance.
sent from a Moto X
werd
I think I made a poor word choice. ZCP wouldn't be better in performance but better on my wallet in the long run. I am currently talking to a local e46 guy about the 330i Stoptech 332mm kit and offloading my 135i setup. Decisions Decisions.. Then all my PERF rotors would be useless and have to go on sale. ;)
Adding my youtube videos here
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PMztc...e_gdata_player
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BevKoGMixjM&feature=youtube_gdata_player
sent from a Moto X
I want to drive thunder hill now
Sent from my iPhone
Nice lines, Derek. A little greedy in turn 12 there eh? ;)
Its my 5th time at t hill. I need to work on all my lines :)
sent from a Moto X
Pretty impressive for only 5th time. I didn't see anything fundamentally wrong with your lines. At this point, it's all about messing around with fine details in cornering; to optimize your entry corner speed, trail braking, mid-corner speed, and exits. These things can make all the difference against a more powerful rival. It's more pronounced with bikes but no doubt applies to cars to a considerable degree as well.
By now, I must have done 40-50 days at Thill since 2007. I'm pretty sure that I'm still not entirely sure about what I'm doing but seat time makes a big difference.
http://www.trackpedia.com/mediawiki/...hunderhill.jpg
Turn 1: I know the car can do faster, but I don't have the balls. I'm entering in at like 85-90 and I feel like the car should be able to make it through 95-100 easily.
Turn 2: I think I got this more of less down. The new M3 rear end forces 3rd gear redline limiter on exit at the little straight before turn 3. I am not sure if it is faster to shift to 4th and back down to 3rd or just bang out the limiter. I feel like I hit the limiter for like 1-2 seconds..
Turn 3: I seem to be braking a little too early for this turn and I can work on the braking and entry of this turn. Braking before the crest but not too late to cause my rear end to kick out on this off camber banked corner. The exit seems like I can be on the gas earlier than I am to setup for Turn 4.
Turn 4: I can be on the gas earlier and I think I am not utilizing the whole turn cause of Turn 5 setup.
Turn 5: (Bypass) I know I can be on the gas earlier near the apex and exit faster so I need to work on that.
Turn 6: This corner I feel like I need plenty of work since its the corner right before the back straight. I think i brake too much and turn in too early.
Turn 7: not really a turn so I think I'm good on this one!
Turn 8: Scared to go full throttle with the new setup. The previous times I could full throttle through here but I haven't had the confidence especially since I lack seat time this year.
Turn 9: The whole day I was braking too early and on the gas too late. I have to remember its an uphill corner and I can mash right after braking.
Turn 10: I started to get the hang of it at the end of the day and was getting faster.
Turn 11: This turn has me confused to hell. I brake too much and on all the HPDE I've attended here, if there is no cone on turn 12, people cut it.
Turn 12: see above
Turn 13: see abov
Turn 14: I am braking better for this turn and have to remember to turn in a little later to setup for 15 as one big turn.
Turn 15: All depends on turn 14's setup..
So thats what I got so far from watching my own videos.
LOL Giya, that is alot of days.
Since April 2010, this is my 15th day of trackdays.