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Quote:
Originally Posted by holyc0w
Quote:
Originally Posted by fredo
Thanks, boys!Quote:
Originally Posted by johnrando
Mileage: 78,164
Replaced cabin air filter with a MANN filter (64319071935) which had been in there since April 2015. It was surprisingly dirty.
I haven’t changed mine since I bought the car because it never looked like it needed replacing
I replace them every other oil change which is 15,000 miles
Honestly, same, and I got my car back in 2015 like WilliamQuote:
Originally Posted by san
The hvac on our cars is set to AUTO and recirculate plus allergies are never fun to deal with.
Mine was DIRTY. I also have driven through a few forest fires at this point, so I figured small particulate had accumulated.
Nah son that's a DIY charcoal filterQuote:
Originally Posted by BMWCurves
https://i.imgur.com/ds8JvEl.gifQuote:
Originally Posted by ZHPizza
Mileage: 78,192
As mentioned in a previous post, when I had my car in for some maintenance about three weeks ago, I had asked the mechanic to throw a brake caliper clip I had purchased into place since mine had gone missing a long time ago. He put it on and as his wife brought the car around, it somehow popped off and jammed into the driver's side rear rotor, making a huge gouge. He was nice enough to offer to replace both rear rotors free of charge, but he had to hunt high and low for a replacement BMW Performance set. He finally found some somewhere on the east coast, and they were the last pair in the US, at least in the BMW dealer system. So those were installed today, I think the part numbers for both rears is 34210431907.
I also meant to replace my AC and drive belts since they're five years old and it's cheap insurance. Unfortunately, I completely forgot that my Turner Motorsport power pulleys use a longer drive belt, so that was a bust. It's still a Continental branded belt, but does anyone know the part number? I've emailed Turner about it.
Also, does this drive tensioner pulley sound shot?
https://streamable.com/d88bve
Is this it?
https://www.turnermotorsport.com/p-3...t-e46-325i330i
6PK1590
That link is to the power pulley kit, but where did you find that part number for the belt? I can't find it on there.
EDIT: oh you zoomed in on the pics like any regular person would :facepalm
https://i.imgur.com/8D59gmn.gif
Looked up my orders and it was 6pk1590 for the turner pulley kit.Quote:
Originally Posted by BMWCurves
Also that pulley is on its way out. Suggest replacing the idler pulley and the tensioner pulley for the engine. The a/c pulley comes with the mechanical tensioner so the whole unit is replaced.
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That's what it sounded like, but if that is the case, then it seems like the pulleys are failing prematurely; they have less than 30k miles on them and just over 5 years old. How long do they normally last?Quote:
Originally Posted by Vas
30k is on the low side. Usually they are toast around 50k.Quote:
Originally Posted by BMWCurves
Did you have the caps on the front of them? Usually dirt gets into the bearing and ruins them.
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Yup, caps are on, haven't removed them since I installed them. They were pretty clear of dust or other grime.Quote:
Originally Posted by Vas
Received my Blackstone oil report
https://i.imgur.com/cKtaH03.jpg
Rod bearings is a common replacement item on the M54 over at the German forums, so I wouldn't really worry about it. Nothing out of the ordinary. Any reason you went with the longer interval? (I might have missed it in the thread) They run really long intervals over in Europe, which is probably why they see rod bearing failures. American E46s tend to get mileages that they can only dream of, thanks to short oil change intervals that are common here.
What are oil change intervals like in Germany? That's quite surprising, I've only ever heard of rod bearing issues with the M enginesQuote:
Originally Posted by Galapolis
The average consumer will blindly follow the computer or dealer recommendation, which is about 20k Km or once every 2 or 3 years. But I've also read posts of some doing 30k Km, others 15k Km, so it obviously depends on the person. Enthusiasts tend to stick closer to 15k Km, and there are some that go as low as 10k Km, but those are rare.Quote:
Originally Posted by t.er
In the meantime, pretty much every person and shop around my area sticks to the 5k miles interval. In our local car club, a few do 3-4k miles changes, whereas the "normal" people I've met here stick to 5-7k miles.
And yeah, around here rod bearings are only gonna be an issue on the S54. Like I said, with US oil change intervals, we don't need to worry about our M54s.
P.S.: This thread for example is telling the OP that the "normal interval" he should be using on his E46 is 30k Km or every 3 years: https://www.motor-talk.de/forum/oelw...-t5490323.html
P.P.S.: In miles, the typical German intervals are 10k, 15k and 20k, just for clarification.
That is absolutely bonkers. I didn't change the oil in my wife's wagon for almost a year and maybe 6-7k miles and it was sludge city. I try to stick to every 6 months since oil degrades with time AND use.
Yeah, I thought Germans were pretty good with maintenance. Understandable about regular consumers but enthusiasts changing every 15k... wow
I do it every 7-8k just because that's what I do every year.
That's 15k Km, not miles. Added it to every number for clarification. Still too long though IMO. I stick to 5-6k miles (same as your interval). Germans drive less and fuel quality is higher there, but as evidenced by all the failing rod bearings, that isn't enough to make up for their ridiculous intervals.Quote:
Originally Posted by t.er
How does one get sludge at 6k miles? Maybe it’s the climate or how the car is driven?
I had no issues with my ZHP when I did 20-30k km intervals. Opening up the VCG was met with clean, slick, unworn parts like the cam lobes which are easy to inspect. I do drive my cars to redline on every single drive though. Not every red light, just once or twice when the conditions allow. Haha
My M3, I do 20-25k km intervals and Blackstone analysis shows average to below average oil/engine wear per km. I have now finally got the advice from Blackstone to swap out rod bearings due to copper and lead spike but mileage wise it’s no different than all other M3 bearings with 7.5k km intervals.
I thought my experiment with Liquimoly Ceratec and/or MOS2 would have helped to extend bearings, but with my testing of over 100k km, that wasn’t the case. Maybe that oil additive is better for other engine components which I don’t pay attention to. LOL
Disclaimer: my experience maybe different than yours while using science/tech to backup my claims. [emoji2958]
Literally just lapsed my mind. I usually shoot for 5-7k miles.Quote:
Originally Posted by Galapolis
That's colloquially what I've heard as well; the S54 has rod bearing issues, the M54 is relatively rod bearing failure-freeQuote:
Originally Posted by t.er
Sludge? Really? Mine's always been dark but good consistency at 5-7k miles, and that's usually at one year intervals.Quote:
Originally Posted by ZHPizza
Maybe fuel quality is higher in Canada? That's REALLY interesting though, central Canada is on the same Latitude as Germany and both you and the Germans chose 20-30k Km intervals. Seems like there might be a connection.Quote:
Originally Posted by Rovert
I told them the same thing over at the German forums and I basically got stoned because the M54 rod bearing issue is "well documented." But like I said, the issue only exists in Europe, not in the US.Quote:
Originally Posted by BMWCurves
My custom ZHPizza throttle (dad)body came yesterday, replete with unique engraving. It'll go in sometime in the next month, along with a rebuilt/reinforced DISA and and a Dr. VANOS unit from last holiday season.
https://i.imgur.com/Ga67yhY.jpg
Nice!
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Mileage: 78,436
I finally got around to replacing my factory VANOS with a DrVanos unit that my folks got me for the holidays last year. This was after I had replaced the Beisan seals back on 11/2017, but then heard grinding/clicking coming from the VANOS some time last year. I blame it as user installation error rather than the kit, as many people have used their kits with great success. I referenced their excellent procedure guide for this installation as well. Another symptom that I attributed to the "failing" VANOS is a mild (but noticeable) power dip around 2,500/3,000 RPM if you floored the throttle. I'm hoping the DrVanos unit will fix that.
Two useful videos from 50sKid:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qWgMrJcww_Y
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0eUVF6OLFFg
Miscellaneous parts replaced:
- VANOS gasket - 11361433817 (BMW). Technically the DrVanos kit came with a gasket, but I had already ordered the BMW part so I used that.
- VANOS oil feed line crush washers - 32411093596 (2x, came with DrVanos kit)
- VANOS plug o-rings - 11361433513 (2x, technically that is the plug with the o-ring, but no part no. exists for just the o-rings. Came with DrVanos kit)
- Valve cover gasket kit - 11120030496KT (Elring)
Also replaced the main accessory belt with a Continental belt that fits the Turner Motorsport Power Pulley kit I have installed (6PK1590). The factory belt, 11281706545, is too small.
Still to do:
- I have a German Auto Solutions (G.A.S.) DISA rebuild kit I plan to do soon using their precise instructions. Hopefully I won't muck it up like I apparently did on the VANOS seals.
- Install ZHPizza's custom throttle body for more zoom zoom and hopefully no engine boom boom.
- I'll also inspect the intake boots for cracks as they're original and 15 year old rubber.
EDIT: After toodling around today and a little bit of spirited driving, the low-end power dip seems to be gone, and just seems to have a little more power over the whole rev range. I'm loving it.
Dude go ahead and order the two intake boots. No way they survive bring removed to install the BBTB.
:rofl :roflQuote:
Originally Posted by BMWCurves
Fudge, I thought they might survive. Any other parts likely to break in my extrication of the small boy TB?Quote:
Originally Posted by ZHPizza
Anything else I should replace while I'm in there? Tutorial videos show it is maybe 30% more involved than I had previously thought to get access to the throttle body.
The only other concern would maybe be the DISA gasket getting damaged during removal, but you're rebuilding that so you're good there. Those boots are constantly flexing since they're the link between the vibrating engine and the body-mounted airbox. Given their age, I'd expect them to be worn out and ready to tear if you look at them wrong.Quote:
Originally Posted by BMWCurves
A new throttle body gasket is cheap and so is the iacv grommet.
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So added items to purchase:
- Upper intake boot (13541438761)
- Lower intake boot (13541438759)
- Throttle body gasket (13547504729)
Any thoughts regarding replacing the "intake boot connecting ring" (13541438760) or having one on hand due to risk of it breaking during disassembly?
Any other hoses or things I should consider while I'm in there? I've seen people talk about the plastic elbow connector on the upper intake boot, or cleaning the ICV (preventative cleaning since I have zero ICV issues).
As always, appreciate the help in advance!
Oh yeah the F shaped connector on the vacuum hoses coming off the intake elbow. That guy can break, but usually it's the old vacuum hose that connects to it and goes to the fuel filter. The car will run fine if you break it so I'd just wait and order the part later if it happens.
The plastic sleeve between the two intake elbows is solid. Shouldn't be a problem there.
F connector? Then yesQuote:
Originally Posted by BMWCurves
Cleaning the ICV isn't a bad idea either, since it's right there.
Okay, doing some research, the hoses and F connector are not accurate on RealOEM diagrams. From this Bimmerfest thread, it seems like these are the correct parts, but would love if anyone could verify
Okay, purchased the following, should be here next week:
- Upper intake boot (13541438761)
- Lower intake boot (13541438759)
- Throttle body gasket (13547504729)
- F connector (13327503677)
- Large hose connects to the "sucking jet pump" (11617547582)
- Small hose is a part of the fuel filter system (11727545323)