The Random E46/ZHP Question Thread

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Originally Posted by bosszhp

What can I get to fix the broken rubber hose on the F connecter from my intake boot? When I had my E39 my old indy gave me some black rubber tubing that just slipped over both ends to reconnect them, anyone know where I can get it or what it's actually called?

Attachment 23700

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F connect is only a few bucks. I got several feet of hose a while back. Maybe ecstuning.

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Edit. Hmm also appears I bought this...

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"ZHP is a garbage option anyway- just some cosmetic upgrades with a different cam and diff to claw back some of the performance lost fitting those hideous and heavy wheels. Any 330 with a 3.46 diff will smoke a ZHP every time. The whole Mafia thing reeks of childish behavior." - an e46fanatic

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Originally Posted by ZacharyMikel

When you press the DSC button the first time and the light illuminates, you're in "half traction control" mode. It lets you be a little more aggressive, but will "reign" you in if things get too crazy. For complete unmoderated burnout fun, you must hold the DSC button for ten seconds and the brake light will come on, only yellow (instead of red). Then the DSC system is completely disabled.


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You only need three seconds. Once that yellow BRAKE light comes on in conjuction with the traction light, you're good to go! Note, you have to hold the button from a complete ON scenario, as in... don't press it first then hold. Just go straight from traction being ON to holding it for three seconds. Then you're in the sweet spot. :thumbsup

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Originally Posted by UWISHU1

Traction Control Q:
I couldn't begin to remember all the burnouts and donuts I did in my muscle car days, so now that I'm back to RWD for the first time in forever, I decided to test the waters by doing a quick wheel spin in the rain. I don't care for first gear "burnouts" because they're over so quickly and I can't help speed shifting second and doing it through another taller gear anyway.

So it was raining and I wanted get a second gear spin going. I don't know what my speeds were, but I went about halfway up the powerband in first, put the clutch in, shifted to second and revved it pretty good, then dropped the clutch pretty quick keeping on the gas pretty hard. It was jerky and a terrible experience I don't care to try again. I felt really bad for the car and immediately apologized for what I had done.
After realizing the DSC (that's what we're calling it, right?) was on, I pushed the button and the yellow symbol came up on the cluster. So I went for it again, but it wasn't much better than the first time. Very jerky and it felt like what I imagine it's like to ride a horse through deep water.

Are the 255's hard to get going? This is the widest tire I've ever run. It was raining that day, but the road was fairly clean and traction was actually mostly good as it turned out. I just wanted to use the wetness to test wheel spin without abusing the car too much and it didn't go very well, so before I decide to rev higher and drop the clutch harder and really abuse the car, some quick questions...

I've heard some BMW's with traction control have a button that turns yellow when you press it to deactivate, but if you continue to hold the button it turns red to completely disable it. I tried holding the DSC button and it just blanked out for a minute where it wouldn't do anything, then came back to normal after I left it alone for about 20/30 seconds.

My question is- when I push the button and the disable symbol illuminates on the cluster, I'm completely disengaged from traction control?

If not, how do I completely disengage it for happy fun time? Do I just need to get after it more? I just figured I'd check with you fellas before I do something stupid.

Thx in advance,
-U

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Careful dude. BMWs aren't designed to be driven like that. They're not muscle cars. I've heard of blown diffs and drive lines from over abuse.

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Originally Posted by ZHP_Brandon

Having the same problem as BossZHP, that lower hose is cracked almost to where it would be severed in his photo, Got a quote from my local dealership.

It would be 120$ for the F Connector & Two hoses or about 34$ per hose, I know the estimate is in my trunk

Ive heard of people just buying the same gauge tubing from "autopart stores" but idk what to even ask for lol


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I'm going to AutoZone or O'Reilly and just asking for rubber tubing (best name I can think of lol). On another note, my Indy just called. They're doing my VANOS seals and they said they needed to replace my VCG, but the day before I took it in I put (or attempted, didn't go exactly as planned) a new VCG on and didn't torque the bolts down because I was taking it to my Indy the next day. They said that even reusing the day old one may cause a leak, is that accurate? I find it a little hard to believe since the VCG is only a few days old with less than 30 miles on it and it wasn't torqued down. Thoughts on this? I told them to just reuse the one I put on there.

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Originally Posted by bosszhp

I'm going to AutoZone or O'Reilly and just asking for rubber tubing (best name I can think of lol). On another note, my Indy just called. They're doing my VANOS seals and they said they needed to replace my VCG, but the day before I took it in I put (or attempted, didn't go exactly as planned) a new VCG on and didn't torque the bolts down because I was taking it to my Indy the next day. They said that even reusing the day old one may cause a leak, is that accurate? I find it a little hard to believe since the VCG is only a few days old with less than 30 miles on it and it wasn't torqued down. Thoughts on this? I told them to just reuse the one I put on there.

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I don't think it's that big of a deal to reuse a "new" gasket. What say others?

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Originally Posted by bosszhp

I'm going to AutoZone or O'Reilly and just asking for rubber tubing (best name I can think of lol). On another note, my Indy just called. They're doing my VANOS seals and they said they needed to replace my VCG, but the day before I took it in I put (or attempted, didn't go exactly as planned) a new VCG on and didn't torque the bolts down because I was taking it to my Indy the next day. They said that even reusing the day old one may cause a leak, is that accurate? I find it a little hard to believe since the VCG is only a few days old with less than 30 miles on it and it wasn't torqued down. Thoughts on this? I told them to just reuse the one I put on there.

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I would think it should be ok... And if it does leak I'm thinking you can replace it yourself


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Originally Posted by san

I would think it should be ok... And if it does leak I'm thinking you can replace it yourself


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Hopefully it doesn't leak because my VCG replacement attempt went terribly awry on Monday lol, shouldn't have even bothered since my Indy was doing the VANOS seals. Oh wellllll. Lets see what happens.

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Originally Posted by san

I would think it should be ok... And if it does leak I'm thinking you can replace it yourself


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or tighten it a bit more... :dunno

So on my next oil change I plan to swap out my oil level sensor since it's been sending low-oil warnings quite often despite the dipstick indicating oil is at the "full" marker. I already ordered the part a while ago and sprang for the BMW part rather than the Hella, while also purchasing the gasket for it. My first question is, is there any other part needed to swap out my oil level sensor, apart from the sensor itself and the gasket (which is apparently redundant because the BMW oil level sensor appears to have come with one)?

My next question is that when I opened up the box containing the oil level sensor, there were some instructions that said the following:

http://i.imgur.com/0mHnuhH.jpg

I assume that since the notice says "Affects vehicles with an S54 engine manufactured before March 1, 2001" I don't have to worry about any DME stuff for my car? I plan to disconnect the battery when I swap out the sensors.

Finally, not a question, but I remember BP picked up a Hella oil level sensor and surmised that the unit was in fact a BMW part, just with the BMW logo scrubbed off. I'm inclined to agree (see photo below). Anyone planning to replace their oil level sensor would be smart to save ~$90 and get the Hella unit.

http://i.imgur.com/pyxyGxd.jpg

I just went through my PO's service records, and see that he's used two different oil weights through the history of the car.

Is there a contemporary "most preferred" oil for our cars? I might want to just swap in whatever is best, just to be 100% sure it's there now.

I'm in Oregon, if climate matters.