Also picked up:
- Replacement passenger side C-pillar from ECS Tuning on sale (51432699060)
- Some trim clips with the foamy bits from ECS Tuning (51418224768)
- Bimmerworld spherical RTABs on sale + free shipping (302.33.536.0006)
Printable View
Also picked up:
- Replacement passenger side C-pillar from ECS Tuning on sale (51432699060)
- Some trim clips with the foamy bits from ECS Tuning (51418224768)
- Bimmerworld spherical RTABs on sale + free shipping (302.33.536.0006)
The low coolant light has come on intermittently the past two days, but the coolant level is only a smidge low. At least one person thinks this is related to improper bleeding procedure. It's something I'll have to track down next week, I guess.
Mileage: 79,485 miles
Minor maintenance:
- Swapped floor mats from cloth to rubber. Should have done it ages ago, but I'm a procrastinator at heart.
- Gave the interior a good vacuum and wipe down with a damp microfiber cloth - it was quite dusty somehow. Just shedding all sorts of skin I guess. Or took it on the Dakar and forgot. Only those two options are available.
- Replaced the passenger side C-pillar (51432699060) along with new clips with the foam (51418224768) because my old C-pillar was drooping. It was fine back when I replaced the driver's side in February, but the passenger side started to droop as well starting in May. Followed this guide.
- Bled the coolant system due to an intermittent low coolant light. There was some dried coolant in the little trenches on the top of the expansion tank, not sure if I have a leak going on or not. I'll see if the light comes back on, it didn't need much coolant to get it to be bled.
She got a much needed bath after crossing 80k miles:
https://i.imgur.com/SjrSz45.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/hMEsN2E.jpg
With the ceramic coating that must've been so easy. I still remember how my car was when I first got it, it had Opti-Coat on every exterior shiny surface
It is very rewarding to finish washing and it's really damned clean without a lot of effort. But being clean also reveals the blemishes :(Quote:
Originally Posted by t.er
Gorgeous!
Nice catch and looks good!
Sent from my SM-G988U using Tapatalk
Looks great!
Thanks! It really needed the bath, I hadn't given it a good rinse since early DecemberQuote:
Originally Posted by Oli77
Grassy ass!Quote:
Originally Posted by johnrando
Don't she though? Thank you kindlyQuote:
Originally Posted by Will
I looked down and missed the most important mileage of my car's life by one mile. I am devastated, to say the least:
https://i.imgur.com/MSKtygh.jpg
Bummer. But why 80085 ? :dunno
8 = BQuote:
Originally Posted by fredo
0 = O
5 = S
LOL ... It makes sense now, thanks.Quote:
Originally Posted by san
https://i.imgur.com/2R9quwy.gifQuote:
Originally Posted by fredo
I promise I am mature and professional when I need to be.
I got the Apple version of what you failed to getQuote:
Originally Posted by BMWCurves
What's the current mileage on your BMW 330 ZHP?
https://r.tapatalk.com/shareLink/top...ink_source=app
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
I have 330,330 and reset my trip odo to read 330 when that happened. You Americans will have to have quite a bit of mileage on your cars before you can read the same...
https://i.imgur.com/EtyOyvvl.png
Put it in reverse Terry!Quote:
Originally Posted by BMWCurves
Put the PS4S's back on (and rotated). Feels so nice to be off studs.
Already?Quote:
Originally Posted by BMWCurves
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Portland is good for one big snow storm a year, tops. If I have to I'll put them back on, but I'm on my family medicine rotation and have to commute 30 miles a day and would rather not do that on studs.Quote:
Originally Posted by san
Mileage: 81,515 miles
Cooling System: For the past month or so I've had an intermittent "low coolant" light on my gauge cluster shortly after start up that usually disappears after reaching operating temperature. I had this issue previously and did some basic research, resulting in me rebleeding the coolant system and topping it off. I checked the coolant yesterday and it was full in the expansion tank, so I'm not really sure what is going on?
To muddy the waters, today I had been driving it around so it was warm. When I was leaving the store, about 30 seconds after turning the engine on, the temperature gauge went to 3/4 while moving though the parking lot and merging into traffic. At the stop light it continued to sit there and then came down to normal temperature. It then rose again briefly while idling and then went back to normal. I was prepared to pull over after I had found somewhere safe, but it stayed pegged right in the middle the whole return trip. I have recalibrated the gauge to be more accurate than stock using BMW Scanner. Thoughts?
Unclear clunking sound at idle: I've noticed when I start up the car and idle for a few minutes, I'll have this quiet, low-pitch clunk that is every 5-6 seconds, and can be faintly felt in the steering wheel. Any idea what it might be?
License plate lights: One of my eBay LED license plate lights kicked the bucket so I purchased a set of these lights off of eBay that arrived today. They don't have a heat sink like my old ones do, so I'm a little worried about them. I'll see how they do over this weekend.
Finally, gave her a bath after four weeks of commuting on the highway in the rain. She. Was. Filthy.
I had a similar issue. These are the notes from my mechanic: "Low coolant warning, mostly when cold. Checked level and it's ok at this time. Expansion tank is failing internally. Replaced ET, also replaced lower expansion tank hose that was also failing. Added fresh coolant, bled air from system and replaced bleed screw. Pressure test, test drove OK."Quote:
Originally Posted by BMWCurves
I remember he said there's a sensor in the ET, and that was the main reason for the warning.
Good to know, maybe I'll replace that expansion tank with *gasp* a BMW part.
*cries as flushes cash down toilet*
Get the genuine BMW expansion tank from FCP - it's a better fit to the mounting plate/bracket & it's the last one you'll pay for. I went through an "almost everything under the hood" refresh on my E39 last year & went with many genuine parts to avoid having to do much of the stuff again too soon!Quote:
Originally Posted by BMWCurves
As a thumb rule, if it’s anything to do with the engine, I use genuine bmw parts.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
My passenger taillight died for some reason earlier this week. I swapped taillights with my father's ZHP and it worked. Very strange. Anyone have a spare coupe taillight?
I had one go out on me too, but it was intermittent. I limped it along for a few months with pieces of cardboard wedged in beside the connector to put enough pressure on the board to make it work, then got tired of playing with it and bought a new one.Quote:
Originally Posted by BMWCurves
They're surprisingly reasonably priced.
You bought new? I purchased a used pair to replace the driver's side a few years ago, sold the passenger. Now my passenger is dead :facepalmQuote:
Originally Posted by ZHPizza
Yeah looks like I paid $162.62 for an OEM one on eBay in 2018. That was worth just knowing it would work whereas any used one is a ticking time bomb.Quote:
Originally Posted by BMWCurves
$185 :/
https://www.ebay.com/itm/New-BMW-Tai....m46890.l49286
$160 :)
https://m.eeuroparts.com/Parts/44537...gaAi-VEALw_wcB
Yeah, I hear you. Definitely how I'd usually approach this, but seems I might have a line from a member on a used one that's in good condition for half that, so is worth a shot, IMO.Quote:
Originally Posted by ZHPizza
Out here acting like I need a driver's side taillight like some kind of NUMPTYQuote:
Originally Posted by ZHPizza
Mileage: 82,258 miles
My my passenger side tail light (63216920700) stopped working about two weeks ago for unclear reasons. I assessed it was the whole unit and not the wiring to the tail light when I swapped it out for my father's tail light, which worked fine. PdZHP was kind enough to sell me a used unit for a decent price. The package arrived quickly and was wrapped nice and safely inside. The unit itself had two flaws:
- The inner rubber gasket that lines the trunk gutter was old and torn and
- There was a dead spider in the housing
Solutions? I looked around the intertubes and while there were a couple of threads on both topics, there was scant advice on actual solutions. I did find that the plastic part with the rubber seal can be replaced (63216933018, see below).
https://i.imgur.com/QgdCG5F.png
The plan: swap the covering from my now non-functioning tail light to the new (to me) used unit. I first attempted to slide it out using hands, some pliers, then vice grips, to no success. Pictures provided on ECS Tuning clued me in to the fact that two of the ridges appear to sort of lock into place, preventing removal. So I used some needle nose pliers to bend each fin away from the ridge they rested on and was able to separate it from both tail light units easily enough without damaging them and swap them over. A quick check to confirm the new tail light works (it did) and was quickly reinstalled! In the back of mind it is also nice to know that the part I swapped over is less than $20 if I had broken it.
As for the spider...I have no idea how to remove that and I wasn't about to risk breaking it open to get out a small thing that is barely visible. Overall, not too bad.
I did not notice the spider, sorry about that! Hopefully your zhp is back safely on the road 👍
No worries! I'll be the only one that notices and I'm sure my selective memory will forget which side it is in due time, I'll look at the driver's side and go "oh, it's gone" and forget all about it.Quote:
Originally Posted by PdZHP
Mileage: 82,xxx (I'll fill this in later)
My local BMW dealership pestered me with emails, texts, and phone calls for the past week to get me in for a courtesy inspection including wiper blade replacement and top off of fluids. After the fifth phone call I figured, eff it, I'll get me some free wiper blades. Fast forward to this morning, I ask the service advisor to put the old wiper blades in the trunk afterwards, and was unaware that a courtesy inspection has ever included wiper blades (it definitely has in the past) and was reticent to do it. I handed over the keys a little more apprehensive and proceeded to wait over two hours. Despite that wait, the wiper blades were not replaced, but that really shouldn't come as any surprise. The found the following items on inspection:
- Leaking upper radiator hose - "Cooling system appears original." I replaced it myself in 04/2015 at 49k miles. It is possible it is leaking, but definitely not original.
- Leaking oil filter housing gasket - Original. Do these break down at ~80k miles? Likely now it's more brittle than my emotional state
- Leaking oil pan gasket - Same as above.
- Rear differential bushing split - Wouldn't surprise me just due to aged rubber.
- Brake pads: 11mm front, 7mm rear - Replaced 12/2015 at 52k miles.
- Tire tread depths: - Fronts: 4mm, rears: 5mm - Replaced 04/2020 at 74k miles. Do Michelin 4Ss really degrade that quickly over 8k miles?
Thoughts? Of course no mention of the power steering line leaking that has been noted by my mechanic. Yet another five star experience at the stealership.
Oil leaks and diff bushings - yes, they are likely bad. Combo of miles and age.Quote:
Originally Posted by BMWCurves
Tires - Michelin PSS lasted about 35k miles + whatever miles Dan had done (2-3k maybe) + a track day
PO replaced OFHG at 96k miles. I did again at 144k miles. Oil pan gasket was done at 91k miles and 143k miles.
I bought Michelin PS All Season 4 recently. My goal is to get more miles for my money : warranty is 45k miles for non-staggered set. Pilot Sport 4s has warranty of 30k miles.
Might I suggest using a Viton OFHG from (what was BavAuto)? No complaints on mine so far but I don't have much mileage on it
Edit: Found a place selling it for cheaper here too
That is what I will be using for next time. I installed OEM one three years ago and already see that filter housing area is getting moist. Probably put 30k miles since the install.Quote:
Originally Posted by t.er
Sent from my SM-G960U using Tapatalk
Mileage: 83,047
Changed my oil at 82,790 miles on 05/21/21 and sent a sample off to Blackstone for a quality report. Seems my engine keeps producing a little too much lead for some reason:
https://i.imgur.com/nE2zweO.jpg
Crossed 83k miles yesterday:
https://i.imgur.com/iWv41XV.jpg
I hear this rhythmic clunking sound that is kind of like a heartbeat (two beats followed by a pause) when the key is in position 2. It disappears when I turn off the cabin fan. Does not change whether AC is on or not. Seems to come from the from the driver's side of the dash. Any thoughts? See video below:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=P5uW8glS5sw