2761, secondary air system. Unfortunately that won't work, you can hear the SAP turn on upon cold start. Lately it's been louder than usual so I suspect something is mechanically wrong with itQuote:
Originally Posted by Galapolis
Printable View
2761, secondary air system. Unfortunately that won't work, you can hear the SAP turn on upon cold start. Lately it's been louder than usual so I suspect something is mechanically wrong with itQuote:
Originally Posted by Galapolis
Connect to a big giant resistor to simulate it accepting power and using it? [emoji55]*[emoji2418]
Quote:
Originally Posted by Rovert
Hahaha. Well if I just need to pass I can drive around, clear the codes, drive around a bit more, and then get smog'd. Just have to make sure coolant temp doesn't go below whatever value it has to be above for the SAP not to turn on.
Well I got all summer to figure it out. Gonna leave it for now since tmrw I have another track day, maybe I can even fix it - there are quite a few threads on E46F showing what others have done
I'd still give it a shot. Mine still turned on during a cold start but replacing the relay still fixed it.Quote:
Originally Posted by t.er
when you resolve this issue be sure to post which threads helped :thumbsupQuote:
Originally Posted by t.er
I had the SES light, even after replacing all the crumbling vacuum hoses from the pump & valve back around the head on the 2000 328i. I bought an SAP on eBay for ~$45 that worked fine, but would not stop running! Replaced the salmon relay behind the glove box = the solution Passed Virginia emissions & no SES light.Quote:
Originally Posted by t.er
For sure, will do!Quote:
Originally Posted by cakM3
Good to know! I had a quick look on E46F and it seems there were 2 versions of the SAP, and our ZHPs got the later version which has a MAF (jesus christ there's a second MAF just for the SAP?!?! lol) with no vacuum hoses to the intake. My hoses are still pliable and not leaking. I did take off the hose from the pump to the check valve and the check valve is a bit crusty, which kinda looks like what this user saw in his car so I'm thinking it could be seized. I think my plan of action is as follows:Quote:
Originally Posted by John in VA
1) Check the pump actually pushes air (which I'm sure it does, since you can hear it, but need to take the hoses and actually look)
2) Check the check valve (haha) isn't seized, by trying to blow through it
3) Diagnose salmon relay with multimetre
4) If the above 3 seem fine then it could be that secondary MAF
God dammit more issues. Halfway through a track day my battery light came on. With the engine running voltage fluctuates mostly between 11.9 and 12.3V, occasionally I see a rise to 13V. Battery light is intermittent.
Reading online it seems I can just replace the voltage regulator, crossing my fingers it's just that.
Sent from my SM-G781W using Tapatalk
I mean if it is the battery...Quote:
Originally Posted by t.er
https://www.bimmerworld.com/Safety-R...P-Battery.html
Well... my OE battery is from 2014, tempting lol. But it's only seen a couple winters and I've read people getting exorbitant amount of time out of theirs.Quote:
Originally Posted by Galapolis
I'll diagnose my SAP and order whatever parts I need along for that along with the voltage regulator from FCP
Oh and you should get the eKombi you posted about last year... I didn't have a multimeter on hand but I could easily access battery voltage through that. Well, I guess I could've used the cluster menu as well, but still... So nice to have voltage displayed on the drive home
Sent from my SM-G781W using Tapatalk