^ That's a creative solution.
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^ That's a creative solution.
Loooool I had to do some major MacGyvering to get this to work.Quote:
Originally Posted by fredo
My god this ball joint tool is a POS. It isn't even straight and I spend too much time wondering why the bearing kept going in crooked.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...0c8d652e8f.jpg
Unfortunately I slightly pinched a small part of the boot so I'll just throw some seam sealer over that. Hopefully it holds up.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...725000e4b0.jpg
Also, grrrrrrrrrr I might need a new brake line, it rubbed on the upper CA - has anyone had this problem doing RTABs before? I wonder if the stoptech lines are a bit shorter than OEM?
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...7405679c41.jpg
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The UUC lines I installed on the zhp seemed a tad short, too.
Welp... I think it's fine for now since it's just the outer rubber liner, as long as the steel braids aren't severed. After I'm done with the RTABs I'll have to see if a vendor sells just the 1 line lolQuote:
Originally Posted by Will
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I wish I had the tools and patience to do the RTABs myself but I don't so I end up taking my car to the indy shop to have them change out my RTABs instead...
I used a similar tool from harbor freight to replace rtabsQuote:
Originally Posted by t.er
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cakM3
Quote:
Originally Posted by san
I'm only using this ball joint press because it's a free rental from Crappy Tire (and Autozone for folks down south). You kinda need 4 hands to hold all the attachment pieces and it was definitely frustrating. It's even worse with the spherical bearing since it's a hard metal-metal press fit, whereas OE RTABs have thin metal shell that I'd imagine can flex into the rubber. Poly is easiest, just goes in with a mallet lol.
1 down and 1 more to go tomorrow. I have a bit of rust in the RTAB pockets and it irks me to say this but I don't think I'll fix it. It'd be very tough to get my dremel into the RTAB pocket with the arm in the way, and it's just a shitty job to do that I really would not look forward to
I think I run the M3 SS lines from Stoptech. They are longer. When I bought them, they said that's all they had, didn't have non-m specific ones.Quote:
Originally Posted by t.er
I don't remember the RTAB being hard to do tbh. Didn't do it on my car, but I did the drill out method. Where you drill a bunch of holes into the rubber and then hammer the remaining metal collar out. To put it in, I just made a press using 2 steel caps at HD.
edit:
I think this is the DIY I followed. Originally from Bimmerforums I think.
https://www.bimmerdiy.com/diy/e36rtab/
In hindsight maybe I should've done that... oh wellQuote:
Originally Posted by sillieidiot
Lol the one saving grace was that I had Powerflex RTABs put in by a shop when I had plates welded to my RACP. The poly bushings came out with a pry bar and hammer, they are still in good condition so I can probably pawn them off.
Learned my lesson for the other side:
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...5cc9522f67.jpg
Last night I placed an order with FCP, they sell just the 2 Stoptech rear lines for ~$56. I was planning on bleeding my brakes since the car is in the air but I'll hold off until I get the new lines in.
Also added to the order some more clips holding the ABS and brake pad wear sensor wires to the RTAB and body, because some are broken.
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FYI I have the MIS RTAB Tool…Quote:
Originally Posted by cakM3
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...b2ba856e72.jpg