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Attachment 16397
Looks like I'm rubbing on the rear.
245/45/17 on 17x8.5" arc-8s.
Any suggestions what to do?
I know OEM size is 245/40/17. Tire rack says that makes it a whole inch taller.
Attachment 16398
Looks like it's the corner of the inside wheel well protector thingy.
Smaller tires. That profile seems to be too tall.
Or remove the rear bumper screw, that should eliminate some rubbing.
Your springs being softer doesn't help as well. I also believe the offsets on those wheels aren't exactly E46 fitment.
On my BBS wheels, the fact that they were et35 offset and that my car is lowered means I had to trim some of that plastic you talk about. Most of it rubbed off by the time I got around to having it modified, but it did the trim.
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They're et40. Is that correct for e46?
They do seem to stand a bit wider than the style 135s.
My next tires will be the right size. Was hoping for an interim solution.
Rear bumper screw isn't touching. Looks like it's the outer edge/corner of the plastic wheel well liner.
Quick Question
Will a 2007 3 series 6 spd fit on my car? I had heard the e90 shares the same trans.
Et40 is good 35 is best.Quote:
Originally Posted by stephenkirsh
Take a Dremel tool to the bumper bolt and you will remove the rubbing. Mine only rubbed under hard cornering when the tires flexed to the outside corner.
Porsches rule! BMWs drool!
Quote:
Originally Posted by az3579
I have 17x8.5 +40 (same as Steve) on 245/40/17. The offset is actually very mild for a e46.
Et recommendations depends on the width of the rim. 35 is actually more aggressive and he would rub even more if he is already rubbing with +40.Quote:
Et40 is good 35 is best.
Take a Dremel tool to the bumper bolt and you will remove the rubbing. Mine only rubbed under hard cornering when the tires flexed to the outside corner.
Porsches rule! BMWs drool!
The tire size is off and that extra inch is a lot. I would definitely trim the rear bumper bolt and the bumper lining. That will minimize some of the rubbing but I would get the right size next time or 255/40/17.
I only went with this size cuz it came with the wheels when I bought them used.
Ahem... Uh... What's a Dremel took?
Bumping for PilotNick
Thumbs, iPhone, Tapatalk.
A brand name rotary tool. Comes with a variety of accessories to sand, cut, polish anf clean stuff. Give it a Google.Quote:
Originally Posted by stephenkirsh
Porsches rule! BMWs drool!
40 isn't all that bad, actually. Not sure why you're rubbing on stock suspension. I didn't rub with et40 on a lowered suspension.Quote:
Originally Posted by stephenkirsh
Quote:
Originally Posted by Hornung418
Sorry guys, I can't say I agree. Anything that requires modification to make it not rub is an aggressive offset. 40 is actually on the lower end of what you can run without requiring modification.Quote:
Originally Posted by derbo
In this case I feel it's the higher tire profile that's causing the rub, not necessarily the offset. Any lower though and the offset would become a problem.
Do aftermarket strut braces like Dinan perform better than using the OEM e46 M3 strut brace or does it just come down to looks? Thinking about buying a used Dinan strut brace but I am wondering if spending less for a bar from an m3 would be just as good?
Dinan is most likely just as good as ///M3 brace regarding rigidity. I'd go ///M3.
"No flamesuit required"
Same
Suspension question: I think Koni yellows are adjustable, but only on rebound, not compression.
Why would you want to stiffen rebound? Wouldn't compression be more advantage?
Since rebound affects the speed at which the shock returns to its uncompressed position, being able to adjust it could come in handy if you live in an area with rough roads, or if you auto cross and and want the cars weight to transfer quickly and predictably. However I think in the case of Koni Yellows, some of it comes down to cost. At least in the mountain bike world, rebound chambers are a lot less complicated than compression dampers and thus a shock with only rebound offers some adjustability and at a lot less of the price.Quote:
Originally Posted by stephenkirsh
Just my guess, I may be totally wrong here :p
So my windshield cowling is pretty bad and I am going to order a replacement.
Will this suffice?
Or should I get the one with the left and right lining pieces?
Quote:
Originally Posted by OtterEffect
I think just getting the cowl is fine. Although since I've never removed mine I don't know exactly what those other lining pieces are for.
MFW $24.27 shipping costs for the cowl from ECS.
http://media.giphy.com/media/A8mOE2k9WV0yc/giphy.gif
Try the local dealer, maybe theirs would be less with shipping.
http://www.bmwoffairfax.com/ has $9 flat rate shipping on most items and ~20% off online pricing.Quote:
Originally Posted by az3579
First one is fine.Quote:
Originally Posted by OtterEffect
I priced an OE for mine a few months ago and the price wasn't bad. I would definitely check the dealer price before making a purchase. And, don't forget about a new windshield gasket.Quote:
Originally Posted by OtterEffect
Just the cowl is fine.
Thanks everyone!
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Have a question about doing a M3 rear swap for its 3.64 LSD. Is this everything I need to complete the swap; Subframe, LSD, Axles, Upper control arms, Trailing arms, calipers, ebrakes, rotors, Lower arms, and the driveshaft?
Quote:
Originally Posted by NickZHP
You could also go with a Diffsonline solution. Swap the carrier only and have a true clutch style LSD. Whatever you do, stay away from OS GIKEN!
Swapping for the M3 LSD would be the cheaper route though, what makes the diffsonline LSD better (other than not having to swap the whole rear)?Quote:
Originally Posted by wertyu78
You're correct. You could also take care of all of the subframe bushings, RTAB's, & diff bushings while doing the M3 subframe swap.Quote:
Originally Posted by NickZHP
The benefit with a diffsonline diff: choose your gear ratio, all new bearings, clutches, seals, and it's pretty.
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More info here in my LSD thread:Quote:
Originally Posted by wertyu78
http://www.zhpmafia.com/forums/showt...the-right-one)
Great info on this thread , OP! This is why I love this forum so much.Quote:
Originally Posted by NoVAphotog
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Here is the list of parts:Quote:
Originally Posted by NickZHP
- Subframe
- LSD Differential
- Driveshaft
- Halfshafts
- M3 Trailing Arms
- M3 Rotors
- M3 Calipers
- M3 Rear Sway bar
- Correct ABS speed sensors for your car
The control arms and camber arm are identical on the non-M but it is usually just easier to find a full subframe with everything attached.
ABS sensors:
You have an 2004 so you will need the ABS sensors with a blue plug from any other E46 except the 330i Manual. Hopefully your M3 swap will come with them.
Ebrake cables are identical from the non-M so you can just undo them from your existing arm and attach them to the M3 ebrakes.
When I did my swap, I replaced RTABS, Subframe/Diff bushings, Rotors, Drum Shoes, Brake pads and various misc bolts n pieces. I ended up at $2500 or so for the swap but it was almost a complete refresh of the rear end. I'm missing control arm bushings and diff rebuild.
IMO, if you just want a great LSD for track purposes, the aftermarket diffsonline or performancegearing is the way to go. I personally wanted the M3 rear end since I figure in the future I will do an S54 swap. With that in mind, I decided to make it M3 for simplicity.
Turns out my ARC-8s I bought used are bent. Bought them from a guy in bimmerforums.
If anybody has any experience getting money back through PayPal, please PM me for tips.
Sucks,. I think BP had a similar issue. Did you send as a gift?Quote:
Originally Posted by stephenkirsh
How much to straighten? Not really the point, but just curious.
"No flamesuit required"
Wheel guy said they're not fixable.Quote:
Originally Posted by danewilson77
Since I plan on tracking, I'd feel safer knowing the wheels were perfect. So even if I can find somewhere to straighten them, I'll end up selling them.
No it was processed as a "payment for goods."Quote:
Originally Posted by ELCID86
Anyone have an easier solution/DIY to the "cricket noise" from the Blower fan? Mine has been doing it more and more as it gets colder and colder and I'm running the heater more...
http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthr...t=Blower+Motor
My brakes are all the sudden squeeking a touch when I come to a slow stop at lights and such.
Pads? Rotors? What are we talking about. Too lazy to google.
Dane come fix it for me