The Random E46/ZHP Question Thread

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Originally Posted by NoVAphotog

Anyone have an easier solution/DIY to the "cricket noise" from the Blower fan? Mine has been doing it more and more as it gets colder and colder and I'm running the heater more...

http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthr...t=Blower+Motor

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I hear sometimes blasting compressed air in there will help. Essentially the issue is dust/dirt buildup around the fan bearing.

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Originally Posted by UdubBadger

My brakes are all the sudden squeeking a touch when I come to a slow stop at lights and such.

Pads? Rotors? What are we talking about. Too lazy to google.

Dane come fix it for me

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Sometimes they just squeal. Might need to grease the pads. Or they could be ending their life and the squeal is coming. You need to take a gander.

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Originally Posted by UdubBadger

I hear sometimes blasting compressed air in there will help. Essentially the issue is dust/dirt buildup around the fan bearing.

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Thanks Seth, and blasting it up through the center vents or removing the cabin filter and shoving the nozzle down in there deep and blowing?

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Originally Posted by Avetiso

Sometimes they just squeal. Might need to grease the pads. Or they could be ending their life and the squeal is coming. You need to take a gander.

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New as of Nov 2013 I have to think I got more than 12k out of them.


I'll grease up the backs and see what happens. Only heard when it got cold recently.

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Originally Posted by NoVAphotog

Thanks Seth, and blasting it up through the center vents or removing the cabin filter and shoving the nozzle down in there deep and blowing?

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Both not a bad idea. Also the little vent in the control housing. Then blast the fan at 100% to get it all out of the system.

Yep. Brake lube is a must.

http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/14...16f3fbb886.jpg

"No flamesuit required"

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Originally Posted by UdubBadger

Both not a bad idea. Also the little vent in the control housing. Then blast the fan at 100% to get it all out of the system.

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Mine has been doing this and it's annoying! I just turn up the volume on the radio! Haha

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Originally Posted by danewilson77

Yep. Brake lube is a must.

http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/14...16f3fbb886.jpg

"No flamesuit required"

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Yeah I should do my pins for sure since I have the brass bushings upgrade too.

Anyone have a lube of choice for the backs of pads?

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Originally Posted by theothersawyer

Mine has been doing this and it's annoying! I just turn up the volume on the radio! Haha

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Also a very effective solution.

BSW kit FTW.

Ok to take off the pads when they've already been on for lots of miles, grease the backs, then put them back on? I'm getting squeaks at low braking speeds. Do you have to re-bed them?

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Originally Posted by johnrando

Ok to take off the pads when they've already been on for lots of miles, grease the backs, then put them back on? I'm getting squeaks at low braking speeds. Do you have to re-bed them?

Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk

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Yes.

No rebed.

"No flamesuit required"

JR not sure bout you but I'm picking this up tomorrow AM.

Permatex[emoji768] CeramicExtreme Brake PartsLubricant
Attachment 16484

Thanks Seth. I've got some of the red anti-squeal grease from when I did the brakes the 1st time.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by UdubBadger

JR not sure bout you but I'm picking this up tomorrow AM.

Permatex[emoji768] CeramicExtreme Brake PartsLubricant
Attachment 16484

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That is exactly what I used on the Mini. Green goo.

"No flamesuit required"

This is the supercalifragalisticpurple goo rated to -65 deg which I am sure we will see here in about 2-3 weeks.

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Originally Posted by UdubBadger

This is the supercalifragalisticpurple goo rated to -65 deg which I am sure we will see here in about 2-3 weeks.

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:rofl

"No flamesuit required"

I usee Neverseez.

http://www.neverseezproducts.com/purenickel.htm

My dad's 04 M54B30 ZSP with 60k miles had an SES light with a P2237 code, O2 sensors. Looked into it. Seems like 50% of cases are fixed from a software update.

He went to a mechanic that said he could do it. Mechanic started it and got the warning that if they continue the update could damage the DME controller. So he stopped. I guess he hasn't seen that before? Software was AutoLogic.

Is that a generic warning, like Shark Injector could corrupt the DME if done wrong as an example.

Any ideas?

Hmmmm, it could be or it could actually be a bad O2 sensor. I've not personally heard of software throwing a code like that but I suppose it's possible. I mean I used to throw vacuum codes on my E90 when I had a cold air intake and muffler delete. :dunno

Was more looking for insight on the software update itself. My dad's car was built in 2003, I don't think it's had any updates since then, so it's possible there's newer stuff out there.

Question is, why would an update corrupt the DME?

If it was interrupted it might not have written properly

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Originally Posted by UdubBadger

If it was interrupted it might not have written properly

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Or if the battery runs low, but I guess that would count as "interruption".

So you guys think it's just a generic warning they do at the start?

He just got a call back from his mechanic.

"They can't do the SOftware update. He talked to the company they get it from. They recommend taking the dme out of the car. So there is less "noise" doing the update like that. But, there is still a chance the dme could be ruined. "

Sounds strange. It's like they offer a product but have no idea what will happen if somebody uses it.

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Originally Posted by az3579

Or if the battery runs low, but I guess that would count as "interruption".

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That would be considered an error/interruption.

When we do tuning we make sure people hook up to a battery tender just in case.

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Originally Posted by stephenkirsh

So you guys think it's just a generic warning they do at the start?

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I do believe the warning is generic, but personally I would never do a DME update with a non-BMW specific tool. That's just me. :dunno

Makes sense. He called the dealership. They want $275 "or more" because it could take "over 90 minutes" to do the update.

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Originally Posted by stephenkirsh

Makes sense. He called the dealership. They want $275 "or more" because it could take "over 90 minutes" to do the update.

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Very likely.
This is why I have my own computer for things like this. Hate dealer rates. :facepalm

Could it really take 90+ min for that?

So today I was driving along when Tessa beeped at me and then turned on her "DSC" and "Brake" dash lights. I've never heard of this happening, any ideas? (The brake light was yellow not red).


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Originally Posted by OtterEffect

So today I was driving along when Tessa beeped at me and then turned on her "DSC" and "Brake" dash lights. I've never heard of this happening, any ideas? (The brake light was yellow not red).


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Could be:

Wheel speed sensor needs cleaning/replacement. (wouldn't surprise me coming from OH).
Alignment is out of wack (probably not it).
Something wrong with the DSC system in general.

Weird. This has happened a few times across the boards recently. I wonder if cold weather has anything to do with it... doubt it.

Mine does it on occasion as well!

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Originally Posted by Avetiso

Could be:

Wheel speed sensor needs cleaning/replacement. (wouldn't surprise me coming from OH).
Alignment is out of wack (probably not it).
Something wrong with the DSC system in general.

Weird. This has happened a few times across the boards recently. I wonder if cold weather has anything to do with it... doubt it.

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It's not cold here. Low has been about 45 at most so far.

No fault codes. Upon restart the lights were out and she was fine the whole drive home. Just a hiccup maybe? Is that [a hiccup] even possible?

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Originally Posted by OtterEffect

No fault codes. Upon restart the lights were out and she was fine the whole drive home. Just a hiccup maybe? Is that [a hiccup] even possible?

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It's happened before. Many times.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by OtterEffect

So today I was driving along when Tessa beeped at me and then turned on her "DSC" and "Brake" dash lights. I've never heard of this happening, any ideas? (The brake light was yellow not red).


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This happened to me for a month and then it turned off and doesn't happen anymore. Once in a while the lights will come on again but its rare.

Truly random: how hard is it to add, say 5 PSI to a car tire with a bicycle pump? I see people using them at autocross sometimes.

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Originally Posted by stephenkirsh

Truly random: how hard is it to add, say 5 PSI to a car tire with a bicycle pump? I see people using them at autocross sometimes.

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I've pumped tires with a bike pump before. Wasn't bad at all. Kinda funny considering that car tires run around 40 psi where as road bike tires go over 100 psi.


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100?! Whoa. Why so much! I keep mine at 50ish lol. But it's not a true "road bike."

The harder the tire, the less rolling resistance I guess..


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